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Can you fit a triangle in a square hole?

Got round to testing those batteries today... One's holding 3.6v...the other 0.1v!! Guess they're both scrap now then. Really glad I kept them in storage for all this time.

Same triangle with a square holder to be used while replacing a damaged circle.

That's the Air Con pressure switch.

Invented for demisting aircraft canopies which would suffer terribly from condensation.

On European models, I guess it will be to secure the Red Warning Triangle. OR .... it is to hook up on to something above to keep the storage cover up while you get things out !!

Aahhh, just noticed it's showing you a special discounted first order price, I ordered a phone case 2 years ago, darn their good memory LOL

Not sure why I get a special price, maybe you just have to pay the NI tax 🤣

We are a friendly bunch here, occasionally opinionated, caustic, pithy and sarcastic but we rarely squabble like cats. There is nothing we like better than helping to mend Fords. We do it for nothing but we can't do it with nothing. Help us to help you. Model, year and engine are a minimum. We cannot help without knowing that. A 1977 Fiesta has different everything to your 2020 Fiesta. If we need to know something more, please oblige us with an answer. There are some real masterminds on here, many of whom know much more than the local garage or even franchised Ford dealer. We are asking for a good reason in order to rule out what it can not be so that you save time and money with accurate information. If your car can use Forscan, the free versions can read your car without giving you the power to break anything. The dongle you need works with a phone or laptop and even if you cannot decipher what it is telling you, it is often useful to us. It will not tell you what is wrong but it tells you where to look.

Hi Stephen, yes I believe the FD+ version does work with both Android and iOS, but ....... @Tizer pointed out to me just this week that the FD+ version was developed for the iOS system and although it works with android it is slower than the the standard FD version which is purely for android.

i dont think forscan will work on a pre 60 model T LOL but sage words

I would suggest for anyone interested in FORScan but very unsure of what or how it works to first of all get the Android version with the bluetooth adapter, vLinker FD. You can then ;play about with it and learn about what it does quite safely. The Android version can not make any programming changes. It can read and clear DTC's and perform basic maintenance resets like 'oil life' indicators. You can also use it to read live data, which can often be useful.

The Nottinghamshire regional accent is so difficult to understand 😧

Yes. If you don't know what you're doing . don't do it. A 2014 Fiesta Studio is what it is. A good and basic little car. Save up for a year, don't meddle with it or chuck money at it(Most of the things it lacks you will need hardware to enable, as well as Forscan.) Forscan can be used to code in accessories in cars that have the basic infrastructure to allow them to be wired in and programmed. Key to this is a box called the BCM or Body Control Module. Titanium and Titanium X cars have a lot more stuff programmed into this box by default but changing it and then geting basic things like the locks and immobiliser to work are not nursery slope stuff. It is your car and your money and I am really the last person to tell you not to hack in and modify it but in this case, I very much doubt if it would be worthwhile or that you would learn anything of use to you. Where Forscan is most commonly used is to diagnose faults but again, I know of many people who have gone looking for trouble and found it. there's a lot said for if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Buy a Dongle, download the free version of Forscan which is look but don't touch and you will be able to learn a bit without ***** up the car. When you can afford a better one, you can start programming in any black boxes you don't have. Realistically, this isn't going to be your car for life and it is likely to be good and reliable, if unspectacular. It is still a much better car than its contemporaries. Look forward to a better one and keep this one in good nick. People buy the shine on cars this old, not the gadgets, which they distrust. Use that tip to your avantage.

Ah!!! That makes a lot more sense now 😀 You can easily edit your profile and correct the year to 2008 which would be a good idea to avoid future confusion 👍

I've used them several times and never had a problem, so I would recommend you use them.

It may sound obvious, but do not rely on any built in MPG fuel consumption meter. The ONLY accurate guide is to brim the tank, drive it, then refuel to brim, and calculate how much fuel lasted how many miles driven...

Yes they are adjustable. Not sure about the size of the Torx, could be T35 but not sure. Just loosen the Torx screws slightly and use a hammer and a block of wood to just 'tap' the striker plate in slightly.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to suggest, maybe @TomsFocus would have some ideas of what to look at.

I'm a little confused. Your profile says the car is a 2011, but only Focus built up to (but not including) 2010 had a fuse box with fuse 104 for the interior lights. Vehicles built 2010 onwards had the interior light controlled by the Body Control Module.

Yeah I didn't think id get the full 48 but definitely not 24. Engine has covered 92 thousand miles and the last major service was in October Edit - service was beginning of November so really not long ago

You have said that the temperature gauge comes to the middle on a warmed engine, I would expect that to happen within three miles on hot or cold days and for it to stay put once it gets there. If you can confirm that, I can confidently rule out the temperature sensor and the thermostat. Please let me know. My gut tells me that even if the car was running as rich as it needs to to burn so much fuel, it would be running very badly and, apart from the slight miss when the car is started, it runs well.

Lisa, you are overthinking this and, meaning this kindly, your guesses are pretty illogical. The consumption is high but I would reckon that attending to the points I have outlined will help. Oh, and 28.9 sounds like a figure off the dashboard computer. I regularly calculate such numbers because I am a sad old pedant and I can tell you that you have as much chance of an honest answer from that as you have from Nadhim Zahawi's tax returns. Brim the tank, drive the car for a week and see how much fuel and how many miles but above all, use an injector cleaner and change the air filter. I am not ruling out a partially blocked exhaust. Does it go all right when you put your foot down?

Rectangular holder Tom. Don't want the kids to fall into sloppy thinking.

Hi Unofix I haven't no, what should Voltage be please? and is the time taken important or can it be at least an hour after being parked up?

OK, guess I'll supply a darn photo, and I don't even own that car LOL Let the guessing begin... I reckon it's to suspend 2 x shopping bags, or, a very slim umbrella LOL Or, a very naughty child

Does it work? If so don't fix it. If not, and it will regas, you will find it a godsend in the winter. Switch it on and select recirculate and the glass will clear like magic.

And the answer is...

Yes, the trouble with Sunday drivers is that they tend to have Sunday problems! We share the road with them.

Yes 👍

Air filter needs replacement in my opinion.

Night and day views on mine, if it's any help:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=501+(T10)+LED+bulbs...+&_sacat=0

That is what divining rods are for.

Scotchloks are the work of Satan. Cut the wire you want to tap into, strip back 10mm from each end. Slide a 30mm piece of heatshrink over one end. Hook the two stripped ends together then take your new wire, strip 20mm from it and bind the stripped end over the hooked joint. Solder. Heatshrink. Done.

The Ford caps on the expansion tank have a poor record of leaks and failures, as in fact the actual expansion tank itself does.

I'm a little confused when you say the link I posted was for IOS (NO, I don't have an iPhone, I'm a man of intelligence LOL) Does the little green man icon not mean it does Android as well?

its usually 2 long small screwdriver inserted between the fins at the to prise and pull plenty of vids showing it then you can access the beauty rings i sprayed mine black.

Ok if you don't mind Anon?

Want me to Google that for you?

That was on the Focus Mk 3.5 though. I assume Dean is referring to the 1.6 in the Fiesta ST here?

I copied this from a post I saw on here a few years back, sorry I can't credit the original poster, but maybe it is of some help... Fitting footwell lights... The best way to fit them is to wire from the courtesy light to the driver’s side footwell first then take a parallel feed off to the passenger side by running the wires behind the footwell kick panels from driver’s footwell to passengers footwell. Running the wires from the light to the driver’s footwell takes a bit of effort but is straightforward. Pop out the courtesy light and let it hang on it’s wires for now. Unscrew and remove the driver’s side sun blind to allow the headlining to be pulled about a bit. Pull back the driver’s side rubber door seal near the door hinge from midway to up near where the grab handle would be if they were fitted on both sides. Using a Torx screwdriver undo the screw holding the panel below the headlight control switch and carefully let it down so as to not pull the wires on the OBD socket. Run a length of wire from the courtesy light housing across above the roof behind the headliner and down the A pillar (easily tucked away now the door rubber is out of the way), leave a bit of cable length by the courtesy light to allow for wiring and pulling the light out for removal at a later date. Run the wire along the bracing pipe under the dash, putting a couple of cable ties in place to hold it steady until you reach the first bulb holder position. You can, at this point replace the sun blind, OBD panel, and door rubber trim you previously removed. Cut the wire to length allowing spare for ease of wiring, and strip about 5–8 mm of bare wire for ***** into a choc block connector and twist the exposed wire to make a nice firm tail for ease of wiring. Cut a pair of choc block connectors off the strip and screw onto the twisted tails. Strip and twist the end of the spare wire you cut off and along with the tails of the bulb holder wires screw them into the other side of the choc block. Remove the lower footwell panels on either side of the centre console at this point, one screw on the driver’s side and two on the passenger’s side, all Torx and under pop out covers. Run the wire from the driver’s footwell to the passenger’s footwell so that when the panels are replaced the wiring will be concealed. Run the wire to the passenger side bulb position and strip as before and again using another pair of choc block connectors, attach the holder to the wire. At this point I recommend plugging in a pair of standard 501 bulbs so that the wiring can be checked without worrying about the fact LED bulbs are polarity specific and can confuse the next phase of the job. Next bit is to power up the new circuit and check the wiring and connections. Using a Scotchlock, attach one wire to the wire at the courtesy light with the single connector on the end of it. You don’t need to strip the wire at all, just slip the Scotchlock over the existing wire, put the new wire into the second channel of the Scotchlock and squeeze in the metal blade bit with pliers so that the blade cuts the insulation bridging the connection between the wires, clip over the plastic cover to lock everything in place. On the other side of the circuit you have two wires to choose from, one is the permanent feed for map lights and position 2 of the main light switch, the other is the switched feed from the door latches and ignition, this is the one you need to identify. Bare the end of the wire so that you have enough to make contact with the inside of the connectors. Pull off the double connector and touch each in turn until you can tell which one works only when the door is open, if the courtesy light has timed out due to the door being open for a while just close and re-open the door to reset the timer. If you’re still not sure which is which then close the doors and try again, the one that does not activate the new loom when all doors are closed and the courtesy light has extinguished is the one you need. To speed up the lights going off, turn the ignition key to I to time the circuit out. Cut the stripped bit off the end of the new wire to avoid the risk of shorts to any metal parts and attach the loom to the correctly identified wire using a Scotchlock as before. Locate the bulb holders into their positions (can be fiddly) by twisting to lock into place. Cable tie where appropriate to avoid strain on the new loom and wrap some insulating tape around any joins for strength and to avoid possible shorts. Replace the footwell panels and courtesy light. Once you are sure that the new footwell lights work ok then fit your LED bulbs, it’s easier to do when you know that all circuits work properly. Remember that the LED bulbs are polarity specific so if they don’t work first time just remove them from the holders and rotate the bulbs 180 degrees.

Not all fuse positions are meant to be used, I think there are 3 possible positions for the cooling fan fuse. Did your car come with a plug in Mountune handset? Some 215 kits were DIY, this handset can also read fault codes, if you can read the codes that would help. Has the car got the mountune intake system or a different open filter kit on it?

Looks like Jay has made an early start, 4 posts in under an hour 🤣

The crankcase vent system is a prime candidate for making the rocker cover leak. Any pressure build up will force oil out of the tiniest gap. I had a vent hose kinked after being put back on by a garage (on a different car), and it made it leak big time.

mmm... now, that would be a bit inconvenient having to get into the back of the car to operate the rear wiper