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Was made by Teckmarx... Never heard of them. But £60 for a clutch doesn't suggest a high quality item. I agree with Unofix, replace the full 3 piece kit while you've got the 'box off.

I really do need to start typing faster. Once again Tom you beat me to the punch line 🤣

If it's just an advisory they may not need replacing yet. Personally, if there's only a £40 premium for the full set of genuine pads & discs, I'd go with them. Otherwise I'm a fan of Pagid. Only basic tools required. If you've got a set of spanners that's pretty much it. You will need some way to push the piston back in. You can buy proper tools for that, but I generally just put a small pry bar between the old inner pad & disc to lever the piston back in. May crack out the G clamp if that doesn't work... (For rear calipers, they must be wound back in due to handbrake mech, but fronts just push straight back)

Yesterday with the help of a mini telescopic mirror I was able to find it hidden. It is the reference that ends in "AC" I checked it, I disconnected it, I ran CRC on it, but it still doesn't work. I'm going to try another one with the same reference to see if it works.

I did my wife's (old) MK2.5 1.8 a few years ago and ended up removing the manifold. Some people reckopn that that can replace the PCV valve and hose by just loosening the manifold but unless you have hands the size of a 6 year old, I'm not sure how feasable it is. Removing the manifold is not technically difficult, it's moretedious than anything (lots of looms to unclip and some of bolts are hidden). I'd definitely recommend getting hold of a couple of images (front and back) of the manifold (ebay listings etc) and at least you can then see exactly where the bolts are.

See Ford Owners Handbook for full details - Page 160 https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/ENUSA_CG3549_KAA_og_201011.pdf

IIRC they won't fold if the mirror switch is left to one side after adjusting the mirror angle. Switch needs to be in the centre position. My Mk2.5 had factory powerfold mirrors and I never needed to reprogram them after the battery was disconnected. I think the procedure for enabling/disabling is to switch ignition on, hold both front window switches up, and then press the right mirror arrow to enable, or the left mirror arrow to disable. Though as I say, never had to do that after just disconnecting the battery myself.

Criminals do their bit towards helping "Net Zero" by using an EV as a getaway car 🤣

Translation please? 😂

Yes, I sometimes get the felling people commenting about the price of a NEW ev's are not looking at the price of a new ICE car. The cheapest Focus is now over £28K and even the most basic Fiesta is over £19K, it feels like prices have gone mad over the last 4 years. Talking about madness today I saw a used Defender for sale at £74995. OK it was 23 plate, but £75K for a secondhand vehicle sheer lunacy.

Sounds very much like the common dry solder joint problem. Your instrument cluster can be repaired and refurbished for around £85 or less. Look on eBay for companies offering a repair of dashboard instrument clusters or @rd457 can probably help.

Personally, I wouldn't entertain buying a car without A/C, even in the depths of winter, with it running, the windows remain clear as the humidity is taken out of the air. I like the fact it 'conditions' the air. My A/C has not been turned off since I got car, and all cars previous are the same. Up to you, if you can cope in a car without it, and have little regard for any resale value, well go with your gut...

Many thanks Ill get on the case in the morning, and get one ordered, may i ask if they come with a diagram re installation etc, again thank you Rob

100% not !! It only works if you have two separately coded keys that both can start the car. It won't even work if you have two keys that start the car but they are clones of each other. That procedure was only intended to be used if you had two original keys that both start the engine.

Seems to be taking a long time to check the fuses (12 hours since your post). What was the result ?

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me. Is there any way I can get the doors on my 2008 ford galaxy to automatically lock when I start driving? All my Previous cars done this but my galaxy doesn't. I have the ghia model if tha makes a difference. Kind regards Hannah

some reason mine needed reset to fold not sure why all done now

Hi all. ive signed up and looking forward to the site. can anyone point me in the direction of a mk3 xr2i bodykit for sale? please doug

Yes, in theory at least.

Thanks @TomsFocus so VALEO 834376 in theory should be the correct kit. Appreciate your help.

Just checked Ford parts list and that suggests Finis number 1548409. That only appears in the reference list for CSC 810037. Meaning that 834376 should be the correct 3 piece kit. Simple, right?

@TomsFocus thanks let me know if you find out please.... and why Valeo as a preference? I've always gone LUK for their "Pro" kits.

Are we advising a Clutch kit such as: LUK LUK622315133 LUK622315134 or VALEO VLO834376

Found it: https://www.carsparesltd.com/ford-focus-1.8-petrol-2003/product/clutch-friction-cl-clutch-parts-flywheels-clpt-cl/clutch-kit/BHBTMK00172 Appears to be just clutch and pressure plate....no CSC / clutch slave cylinder (with release bearing).

Indeed, hopefully there hasn't been internal damage from hydrolocking 1 or more cylinders 🤞

Personally if I could get the genuine Ford disks and pads for only £40 more than Motor Factor parts then I'd pay the extra. No special tools needed, just a regular socket set and perhaps a 7mm Allen key, but that might not be something that is needed on your brake calipers.

Could have happened in an ICE car as well, I suppose. The moral really would seem to be check the fuel gauge or battery range remaining before you drive off in it!

Blimey, had totally forgotten about that thread... I typed out the full list again in a Word doc earlier this year! That list is 7 cars short now... But yes, sadly the Focus pictured above was sold in 2018, then failed MOT during covid, and was never returned to the road, so I assume scrapped.

Didn't Wheeler Dealers do an episode recently with one of these which had been imported to Scotland from South Africa?

If your existing door has an electric window then you need to transfer it over to the replacement door. The only thing that you should be using from the replacement door is the actual metal door. All other parts need to be transferred over.

On my way to the paint shop

Lol, it's a bit late for that - check out Tom's entry on this car history thread: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/103261-car-history/

Yes, but not that quickly on a full, sealed system. Mine would generally go 9 or 10 months without any use. Oil clings to surfaces pretty well. Much bigger issue is leaving the system empty of gas with air & moisture inside instead.

I'm just curious, why did you never just turn it on?

42 years ago, I paid £4995 new, now, I believe a decent one goes for £15k LOL

Only if your vertically challenged.

I'm struggling to understand how a garage can justify £350 labour to replace one injector.

Not many people bother with the Instantaneous mpg, most just select the average mpg display.

I really like the Wetherspoon app. No I'm not lazy but I'm just 15 foot from the bar in a very busy pub and just ordered a beautiful pint of Abotts Ale. £1.29 a pint. Is that criminal or simply honest to goodness value for money? I say the latter. Happy Easter everyone 🍻

You need to be using the "vLinker FS" these days with the latest version of FORScan. vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP The old ELM327(switched) will still work with a 2011 model but to save having to replace it next time you change your car it's better to just get the vLinker FS which is automatic switching, works with all past and present Ford models and is compatible with Windows 11

To be honest from a maintenance point of view the redesigned 1.0 ECOboost with a timing chain is not much better than the previous generation 1.0 ECOboost. On the redesigned 1.0 ECOboost the oil pump belt is installed behind the timing chain. Changing the oil pump belt simply means that the sump, engine front cover and timing chain need to be removed to get access. Once removed it is good practice to replace the timing chain, plastic chain guides and chain tensioner. Replacing the oil pump belt on the redesigned 1.0 ECOboost is basically just as labour intensive and expensive as replacing both the wetbelt and oil pump belt on the previous generation 1.0 ECOboost. I suspect many future problems with these engines due to the fact that many owners and used car dealers do know that these revised engines have a timing chain but are not aware of the oil pump belt.

It appears that in response to the collective action in France, Stellantis are now taking action over timing belt issues. Stellantis, ten years after the launch of the 1.2 Puretech engine (1.2VTi/1.2 THP in the past) who own the former PSA brands, namely Citroen, DS, Opel and Peugeot, are finally taking after-sales measures to address the problem linked to premature aging of the timing belt. The Stellantis group justifies this reaction with the sentence: "Having customer satisfaction as one of its fundamental values, Stellantis confirms the extension of the warranty for certain 3-cylinder PureTech gasoline engines, in specific circumstances". An interesting point is that Stellantis recognises that "the belt (supplied by Dayco) is a collateral victim and not the cause of the problem". https://www.largus.fr/actualite-automobile/stellantis-1-2-puretech-une-extension-de-garantie-etendue-pour-le-probleme-de-la-courroie-30032881.html

The issue with the Ford cam belt has nothing to do with strength. Issues lie with gradual deterioration, and eventual blockage of the oil pump pick up strainer, leading to oil starvation for various key components. Apart from the original Ford branded belt, there are alternatives available from other major belt manufacturers. For instance I'm currently using a BGA TB2322 instead of the usual Ford/Dayco option and there are others.

The 2008 Mondeo will have an Aisin Warner Transmission that does not have any official service requirements. The 2011 Mondeo will have a Getrag Powershift 6DCT450 transmission that definitely does have a service requirement to have any chance of a decent life. It requires an oil and filter service every 3 years or 37,500 miles, whichever occurs first. Lots of videos on line on how to do a service correctly

Kevlar reinforced wetbelts would not be effective. They would still get damaged by contaminants in the oil like detergents and fuel.

Diskloks are certainly good (I've had one a lot longer than 24 years and it (or the car it's attached to) have never been stolen). Can be a bit of a fiddle to put on and off though, particularly if doing multiple stops and I do also have a brake lock which is easier to use for a quick pop into the shops: https://www.milenco.com/products/automotive-security/automotive-security-wheel-locks

Hi all. Heater fan stopped working on speed 1 and 2 so I had the resistor replaced last weekend. Took me less than 20 minutes but the resistor’s screws are placed a bit awkwardly: Ford Focus Mk2 heater fan resistor replacement

The seat frame welds can crack though usually you'd feel the seat drop on one corner. Best bet is probably to remove the seat and look underneath.

Collecting my mk1 focus tomorrow, good to read the threads already posted cheers chaps il keep my eye on the areas mentioned all seems good so far tho :)