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At 2014 you are due a belt change anyway

You need to change your mindset. Getting '200 miles' is a useless bit of info. (As you have little idea of how much fuel you needed to achieve that) The only true measurement is MPG. I always brim my tank, set my odometer to zero, then do the same again next trip to the garage. This gives you an accurate ongoing statistic of what mileage you get...

Just a quick ending to the thread, the fixings on Ebay at £3.25 are a perfect fit! No brainer at 32p/each as opposed to 'genuine' Ford at £5/each 🤣

By the time it shows symptoms, it's generally too late. That's why so many end up failing altogether. As it's 10 years old and very low mileage, I'd either get the belts done asap, or sell it and buy something without a wetbelt. The cost of wetbelt changes make these cars unviable for low mileage drivers.

Search Ebay for "Focus/C-Max Instrument cluster repair", remove cluster and send it off. Don't attempt to fit a replacement cluster, it's more hassle than it's worth. Don't waste your money taking it to a garage, just send the cluster off and it will be OK

Just be aware reflowing defective solder joints may last a little while but the leadfree solder used originally fails with age. the solder should be removed and replaced with conventional solder for a lasting repair.

Hi, I've just joined the forum in anticipation of collecting a used Fiesta tomorrow. I've been a serial Ford used car owner since my late teens. I started by buying a dodgy Mk1 Escort Mexico replica, I wrote it off after a few weeks, stripped it, bought a used bodyshell and rebuilt it with the parts I could salvage while using proper sized brakes etc. this time round. I had that car for years until rust got the better of it. Next was a Mk2 Escort RS2000 Custom 'V' reg with Fishnet Recaro seats. It was a lovely car but it got stolen after 3 weeks! I couldn't bring myself to buy another RS2000 when I only saw lesser examples for sale, especially as their asking prices far outstripped the money I got from my insurance settlement. Not being inclined to get a FWD Escort, I next bought a Sierra XR4i. I had that car a number of years before it got stolen too, cue a visit from an insurance investigator. He was happy to conclude that I am not a serial fraudster and this time the pay out went on another Sierra, an XR4×4i. My first daughter came home from the maternity hospital in that car. By the time daughter number two arrived, The Sierra was traded against a Mk1 Mondeo V6 Ghia X, all very civilised with full leather upholstery and a CD player as well as a cassette player! By this time the Ford Cougar had been recently launched and the Mondeo was traded against an ex-Ford company registered V6 Cougar X with manual transmission. I drove many miles South, to Archer's of Ashby, to collect the car with the exact spec I was after. Archers had a number of ex-Ford Cougars to choose from and I remember seeing four or five Racing Pumas in their yard at the time too; one of which was taken for a test drive by a young couple while I was there. The fellow who was driving it came back grinning like a maniac and couldn't wait to sign up for it. I still have my Cougar, it will have been with me for 22 years next month. Unfortunately it failed its MOT last November with corrosion of the rear sub-frame being the primary culprit. My better half was never comfortable driving it and is looking forward to the Fiesta as the sensible alternative to her somewhat larger car. I talked her into her car and it is only fair that I let her talk me into mine. I look forward to gaining useful knowledge here and trust the Fiesta will be well behaved! Best regards.

Example below......

There is no reason to remove or change the physical ignition barrel unless you are planning on changing the mechanical key blade that you use. If so you will also need to change all the door locks, and the tailgate lock. The barrel is secured to the steering column by two snap head bolts (not rivets). When the bolts are originally fitted they have a normal head, but it snaps off when the bolts are tightened and reach a certain torque.

There would be little point since it is exactly that "an average" mpg. Personally I don't usually reset my average mpg as I like to kept a check that it doesn't start changing by significant amounts without reason. The display of range is only an approximate or best guess of how many miles the car may get. It can increase as well as decrease depending on changes in driving.

There is a company that specialises in roof repair in Chester called Hoodtech run by a young guy called Charlie. All he does is soft tops and hard tops, manual and electric. Knows a lot about the Focus CC roof. https://hoodtech.co.uk/

Know there's a warning message to stop safely. 🤣🤣. shows on transit when one of the vacuum sensors fail electrically or looses vacuum. Guess other models similar message.

I see what you did there 😉🤣

Hi Kay, The 3 cylinder petrol engines in the Focus Mk 4 - both 1.0 and 1.5 - are of revised design using a chain cam drive rather than the "wet" timing belt of earlier versions which no doubt you have read about, so should be of similar reliability. These engines still have a belt driven oil pump and the belt requires changing at 150,000 miles or 10 years whichever comes first. This is an expensive job. Several owners on here have, like John, reported a good experience with this engine in the Mk 4 Focus. The engine is used in 200ps form in the Fiesta ST and I have seen no particular issues on ST forums, even on cars with 235 or 260bhp upgrades. One key thing is to ensure any prospective purchase has a full verifiable service history. Don't know what car you have now, but as John mentions, battery issues are common on most modern cars, not just Ford (you'll find lots of threads on here about that!😀).

Quite understandable. Far better not to get it changed now and just wait until it fails and then spend £6000 on a new engine in a few months time. 🤔

I have the non-Active 150 BHP version of that Engine and love it. I don't think these cars have any inherent faults other than if it is on its original Battery then it would be a good Idea to change it.

I note it says this in that article: The engine oil in this particular engine had not been changed regularly and possibly not even been the correct specification oil.

I've had success using that in the past.

They're the cheapest ***** that ECP sell. (Or were a few years ago.) I've had two warped Eicher discs as well. Wouldn't buy them or recommend them to anyone else personally. There are two different points of squealing. One is the pad vibrating in the carrier, which can be damped by copper grease - or in the past decade I'd go with Cera-tec instead. But the other squeal is the pad material against the disc. Obviously you can't put any grease on that side! You can file a shamfer on the edge if they're straight edged. But if that doesn't work then it's simply the composition of the friction material that causes the squeal, only a new set of pads will cure that.

They indicate whether side 1 or side 2 of the CD is playing.

I think it’s just the angle of the photo Unofix I’ll give it a double check in the morning I put the revs to 2000rpms and was checking around all the pipes but couldn’t seem to find anything I’ll get some brake cleaner spray on the MAF sensor tomorrow see if it could be that.

Turns out I had the wrong fuse box diagram, pulled the correct fuse and its gone. Previously had a secondary sound system installed and was poorly removed, so hoping this is the cause and will get the fuse replaced and hopefully this will fix the issue

That fuel 'computer' is nothing but a toy. The only true way to measure mileage is to brim the tank full, drive to a quarter tank left, full up, and calculate exactly what fuel your car has used over your driven mileage, not what a microchip thinks it uses...

If you always use 'premium' diesel, there should be no need for further additives. That's the point of spending extra on premium...

Well here’s another update, quoted £1800 to repair and rebuild gearbox for Ford dealer. Have spent a long time discussing with Ford Customer Care for goodwill and they have offered £680 or so, plus managed to get the Ford supplying/servicing dealer to add to the pot, so we are finally left with £880 to pay, so £1000 in goodwill…. Not a bad result, but still leaves a really bad taste in your mouth when the car has only done 35,000 miles. Here’s a link to the YouTube video that I uploaded, just so that it is available for future reference.

Hello all you lovely people 😄 Cat problem is solved by putting a replacement - BM Cats, terrible fit, but on now and the issue is solved. However still getting P132:21-6c from the turbo. Tried a different vacuum pump , and boost solenoid and still error. Lastly had the system vacuum tested and the actuator arm is hardly moving. Do the wastegates get stuck / seized or could it be the mechanism (diaphragm etc) itself?

Thought I'd posted the previous comment - but I hadn't. Local company mentioned above charged £110 + Vat incl labour and new battery was fitted in around seven and a half minutes! All good, car fires up (as expected) first time. Happy lad! Zaph

I haven't pulled the Vacuum Pipe off to prove a point but when I last had FORScan running I did check the Vacuum in the Servo and it sits in the high 90's constantly and drops about 20 when braking.

Lol, I thought from the name you were the Mrs!😀 But there's a good recommendation from close to home. I was impressed with the Corolla hybrid I test drove. Getting pricey now, but then, isn't everything.

Given that you get a warning for not combing your hair (joking but you know what I mean) you would think so, but I've been having a search out of curiosity and only seen mention on VW, Audi, Skoda, etc forums. I have experienced servo failure on a Ford years ago (leak in vacuum pipe) but that was obviously long before all this warning stuff. Anyone know the answer to this one?

Hi welcome

....or sell the non-runner on a "spares or repair basis". Not really recommended in either case though as belt failure usually results in total engine loss and brake failure.

No. That's for the Transit battery. Keep up.

I’m confused. Kwik fit have quoted £180 for a wet belt change?

I'm sure Ford cars do as well but the drama queens and clickbait journalists have never mentioned it.

That's an interesting point, VW Group cars do throw up a warning, I believe.

Yes, yet another sales gimmick I'm afraid. You just have to learn to ignore it, I get them all the time and it's not even close to being correct. The remaining oil life indicator should be correct, so even though you reset it, I believe it will sort itself out as it is intended to monitor the oil quality.

Given that the amount of Vacuum in the Servo is monitored, at least on the 1.5 Dragon Engines and probably on the 1.0 Engines as well, I don't believe that there was not some sort of warning for no Servo assistance.

Just came across this reference to the vacuum pump issue: https://www.aaronsautos.co.uk/what-caused-this-vacuum-pump-to-fail/

If you (or your daughters car) really are in Derbyshire these people may be worth a look: https://www.aaronsautos.co.uk/services-derby/replacing-the-wet-belt-on-the-ford-1-0-ecoboost/

That's a shame she has to go off and buy kits. When the government were kindly giving the kits out FREE of charge (!), I ordered virtually one box/week so have a cupboard full, expiry date still another 2 x years. I've even seen them now in charity shops for 50p. The amount squandered on Covid which runs in eye watering £Billions, is for another thread!

I would say they are speaking with forked tongue !! 🙁 Your daughters car is a little 1.0 Petrol engine, and Transit vans in the UK are usually a 2.2 or 2.0 Diesel so absolutely not going to have the same battery.

Your battery is dead !! 12.65V + is fully charged It will be an EFB stop/start battery. Do not fit an AGM the car charging algorithm is not set up for it. Replacment battery (fitting your self) should cost about £110 for a good quality Yuasa. Tayna Batteries https://www.tayna.co.uk/ Make sure to charge your new battery for at least 12 hours. You will need to reset the Battery Monitoring System (BMS). No tools are requires and takes just a couple of minutes. Remember when charging the battery, it should be done while it is connected to the car. Battery charger positive lead on to the battery, and the negative lead on to the chassis earth point not the battery.

OK !!! I think I know what it is. It's the voltage sensing unit for the Stop/start system, and for some reason is also involved with the reverse camera if one is fitted. FORD COURIER Voltage Converter Module AV1T-14B526-AB Ford Finis Code 1932295 for vans without reverse camera. FORD COURIER Voltage Converter Module AV1T-14B526-BB Ford Finis Code 1932296 for vans fitted with reverse camera.

If this is the 2.0 diesel then it's a very common engine, used in many different cars, with few internal faults. Should be able to find a good used one to drop in.

Check to see if the usb socket is damaged..sounds like it's clogged and a pin is shorted to another. If you can unplug from the back and see if the message stills apears

would you not need to be able to switch any lines currently coming from the camera in the old days, posh cars generated their own "dynamic lines" using a separate module taking info on steering position and overlaid this on screen - my one is like this, the Japanese ASIN module to do just this cost $2000 - the accountants didn't like that, and facelift versions of my car superimposed static lines on screen within the head unit then the world of data flow and maths moved on a few centuries - with steering angle data now std fit on all cars (with mandatory ESP) and electronics becoming cheap as "chips" its doesn't take much for a modern car to be able to have dynamic lines thus because some cars can make their own lines, decent aftermarket cameras can switch on or off any lines its invented - but if they are coming from an aftermarket camera but can't be disabled, will this cause fun with the way info is presented?

They're called 'Scrivets'. Designed to be hammered in but unscrewed to remove. https://www.sdproducts.co.uk/panel-and-trim-fasteners-plastic/scrivets

Thank you Unofix and Nick for your help, I got the buckle in the wheel fixed and am now sorted.

Couple of photos of debris. One of vacuum pump gauze blockage (not mine, but of one that failed) and one of the debris I removed from my own turbocharger gauze filter (wrecked the turbo).