Detailing Products And Techniques Advice

[little oz2]

What do people recommend to get and how to clean your car properly?

Do you advise getting a pressure washer as well?

Thank you in advance

[L22EEW]

A clay bar is a good start ;)

This is what I achieved on just a wash/dry/claybar session/buff with microfibre cloth:

[little oz2]

nice :P, very nice car :D,

I heard some people talking about DoDo juice wax,

I'm all new to this as my previous car I never used anything like this on it and only used a pressure washer at the local petrol garage, but even though my car now isn't brand new I want to really look after it.

[L22EEW]

I never clay barred a car. My previous Clio I looked after, however I never clay barred it once. I've owned the Fiesta for a few months now... clay barred the entire car a couple weeks back. The results amazed me! Paintwork felt so smooth afterwards, like showroom finish. I highly recommend spending a few quid on a 3M claybar.

[Jeff4155]

I have for the past 7 years used Mcguires products, I do the whole process every 6 or so months, it's very labour intensive, but worth it. Regarding the high pressure gun, it helps with getting to those hard to reach places, but you will still have to use the bucket and water method for washing.

[chrisroberson99]

Try a clay mitt rather than a clay bar, it's much quicker and easier to use. :)

You'll need a good prewash such as a snowfoam or citrus pre wash too. Also you'll need a decent pressure washer like Nilfisk if you don't already have one. :)

[little oz2]

Is the mcguires stuff any good? and is it expensive?, does anyone recommend using a wax or anything for the top coat?

I was looking at a karcher pressure washer as I thought they were quite good

[SNC]

^ I second the clay mitt over the clay bar, much quicker, less arm ache and the same result. Also yes to the powerwash.

I mainly like AutoGlym products with a mix of Mcguira's products, it takes a long time so like mentioned above I do this every 6 months:

1. Power wash (Karchers are fine) with some Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo/Conditioner to remove the top layers of muck.

2. You need 2 buckets and the best cleaner is a Lamb Wool Mitt. Fill 1 bucket with water and the other with water and more of the Gold Class Shampoo, wash each panel with the shampoo & water bucket and then rinse and get rid of the dirt off the mitt with the other just water bucket.

3. (Optional if you have road tar on the car) Use some AutoGlym Tar Remover or an almost as good alternative WD40, leave for 10 mins to disolve the tar then remove with a microfibre cloth.

4. Using the Clay Mitt with either AutoGlym Rapid Detailer or plenty of clean water, one panel at a time go over small parts at a time over and over till it stops squeeking and feel much smoother like glass (always make sure the area and clay glove are lubricated). When finished either leave the car to dry or get some microfibre towels to speed it up for the next part.

5. Apply and polish in; with either aplicator pads or microfibre clothes; some AutoGlym Super Resin Polish to restore the paint and remove any small scratches.

7. Then seal it and protect your now perfect paint finish with Autoglym Extra Gloss, you only need to apply a very small amount of this with microfibres to each panel then buff it using more microfibre. (Get a bunch of microfibre cloths as you always need loads of clean cloths but you can wash them)

8. Then you need some wax layers to not only get your car shining newer than a dealership and that beautiful beading when it reans, but also add more protection and make cleaning much easier over the next few months of washing, I apply and buff two seperate layers of this Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnauba Car Wax (applicator pads or microfibres), then using the powerwash quickly wet the car and apply and buff one final layer of Autoglym Aqua Wax. Finally i dry the car with microfibre towels and admire your perfect looking finish car.

Also I do all of the above processes on the wheels too except I use Autoglym Clean Wheels after the 1st powerwash and before the two bucket clean as this loosens and gets rid of the grime and brake dust (if you don't remove the wheels to clean, it does make the brake discs go a green color, which clears and goes back to the normal silver color as soon as you drive the car and actually cleans the discs a bit)

This is obviously a long and thorough process but the results are great and you need to like cleaning/detailing your car to do it but its worth it protecting the car twice a year.

After this its fine to just simply wash the car every few weeks with just the powerwash to get rid of the dirt and wet the car, then use some microfibres and just the AutoGlym Aqua Wax to clean, buff and wax the car and tyres to get back to great results. This I can do in 40 mins start to finish.

Some people use snowfoam with a foam spray adapter for a power wash but I've never needed too although it can save time. Also most of the products I've listed above are from Halfords as they always have a 3 for 2 offer making them pretty cheap if you get 3 of any of them but eBay has 5l versions of most of them which can save you money in the long run and you can just keep topping up the original spay bottles.

[MarksST]

Spending the time to clay the car is worth it, you won't believe the amount of dirt that comes off the car if it's never been done before, aswell as a tar remover, a fallout remover (auto finesse iron out, iron X or dragons breath etc) is worth using, spray on leave for a few minutes as the car bleeds purple then hose off.

Don't bother with a pressure washer just yet, just buy some decent products.

You don't really need both a sealant and a wax, they are basically the same thing sealants are synthetic and waxes are more of amateur all product, waxes don't bond to the sealant in the same way that they do to the paintwork.

The 3for2 at Halfords is good, G3 products are good from there, have a look on some of the manufacturers websites as they have some good how guides for the different products (auto finesse have guides on all their products, worth looking at even if your not using their brand)

[roocat]

quick question and hope this isn't hijacking, can you use a buffer/polisher for just buffing wax off or should they really only be used just when the car needs polishing? (sorry if that's a dumb question). I'm assuming they are good for just buffing wax but wanted to check.

I've washed and waxed my car with meguires with great results but i can't help wanting to make the buffing even easier :) - was looking at the dodo buff daddy?. I've also bought a small pot of dodo juice purple haze to try as I've read it's good stuff.

[L22EEW]

But what about all the nooks and crannies? Surely a bulky clay mitt won't be able to reach those areas? I find a clay bar pretty darn good, as you can mould it into shapes that works best for the shape of the confined space. I haven't used a mitt yet, hence why I swear by the clay bar.

[steve67]

all the info you'll ever need can be found here.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/

http://www.perfectlycleaned.co.uk/guides-3-w.asp

[roocat]

But what about all the nooks and crannies? Surely a bulky clay mitt won't be able to reach those areas? I find a clay bar pretty darn good, as you can mould it into shapes that works best for the shape of the confined space. I haven't used a mitt yet, hence why I swear by the clay bar.

i got a clay bar too but having looked up a clay mitt on the halford site it does look like it will handle nooks and crannies just fine, think i'll get both and use the mitt for larger areas.

[steve67]

With this guide we wanted to give you simple and great tips to achieve the best touchless wash possible.

So what is snow foam & Pre-Wash

The Pre-Wash step is designed to remove as much dirt and grime from the paintwork before you touch it with a wash mitt.

snow foam helps to break down and remove dirt and grime which accumulates on your cars paintwork over time, making this a great first step to washing a dirty car as you don't have to make contact with the paint surface with a wash mitt or sponge. Pre-Wash products help break down this dirt even further, resulting in minimal dirt left on the car so it is ready for the wash (shampoo) stage.

snow foam

What is snow foam

Snow Foam is designed to cover a vehicle in a thick blanket of foam. Leaving to dwell will allow the solution to soften and encapsulate dirt and grime allowing it to be safely rinsed away. Using Snow Foam minimises the risk of creating swirls in the paintwork during the wash (shampoo) stage, it can also be used in conjunction with a sprayable Pre-Wash product. Using Snow Foam alone will by no means leave your car crystal clean, it is designed to aid the second stage of washing, the shampoo stage by removing as much dirt from the paint surface as possible without contact.

What do you need for Snow Foam

If you haven't already got one, then you'll need a Snow Foam Lance. These are availible through the Shop 'n' Shine online shop. You will also need some form of Snow Foam Solution. These come in a range of colours, smells, strengths, and sizes. It is mostly down to personal preferance when buying a snow foam however we have put together a buying guide incase you need a little more help.

How much does it cost

If you haven't already got one, then a Snow Foam lance from Shop 'n' Shine costs just £44.95. You then need to add the Snow Foam Solution. These range from £7.99 to £28.95 depending what product you choose and how many litres you require.

How do you maintain a Snow Foam Lance

Maintaining your Snow Foam Lance is very important. Many people either forget or do not understand the important of regular cleaning of the lance. As a guide we'd recommend running fresh water through the lance at least once a month (if you use the lance often). This will help keep the internal workigs of the lance clean and prevent any major build up in the gauze filter within the lance its self.

This safe washing guide is designed to make washing your car very easy by using an easy 5 step process.

Equipment Required

• Wash Mitt
• Microfibre Drying Towel
• Shampoo
• Pressure Washer / Hose Pipe
• Pre-wash solution or Snow Foam
• Snow Foam Lance
• 2x Buckets & Grit Guards
• Wheel Cleaner & Brushes

Safely washing your car is the most important part of maintaining it's overall finish. If you are heavily into detailing and love the swirl-free, glossy look of your paint then following a poor washing routine will undo all your hard work and inflict swirls and scratches in your paintwork. Even if you are not a professional but just like your car to look it's best then following this guide will ensure your cars paintwork is always looking it's best.

Washing a car is often overlooked and rushed, especially with the increasing convenience of local hand car washes. However if you are reading this guide we are assuming you are one of those people who would much prefer to do the hard work yourself. This safe washing practise is the best process for removing dirt, road salt and road grime without hindering your paint finish.

If using a pressure washer please pay particular attention to the more fragile areas of your car, for example panel gaps, mirrors, areas where the paint is at it's thinnest and always remember to never point the pressure washer directly or too close to the paintwork. Try to angle the head of the pressure washer at around 45 degrees to encourage the dirt to flow down the car towards the ground.

STEP 1: Pre-Rinse

The start of the safe washing procedure is to give the car a thorough rinse. This is to remove as much loose dirt and debris from the paintwork which could later get caught in your wash mitt and cause swirl marks and marring.

STEP 2: Pre-Wash

The Pre-Wash step is designed to remove as much dirt and grime from the paintwork before you touch it with a wash mitt. For best results in this step ideally you need a pressure washer and a snow foam lance as this will create a thick blanket of foam which will cling to your vehicle for longer. If you don't have a pressure washer other options are available like pressurised sprayers or hose pipe attachments.

Mix the snow foam as per the manufacturers directions and apply to the vehicle. Once the vehicle is covered in a thick blanket of foam allow to dwell for 5-10 minutes, this will allow the solution to soften and encapsulate dirt and grime allowing it to be safely rinsed away.

TOP TIP: Whilst the snow foam is dwelling this is the perfect time to clean and prepare your wheels and tyres.

STEP 3: Washing

During the washing stage you make contact with the paintwork with your wash mitt, now your will realise the importance of properly rinsing and pre-washing your vehicle. This stage involves the use of 2 buckets (2 bucket method as it's widely known.) Fill both buckets with fresh, clean water and add shampoo to one of them (you may want to agitate it with the

pressure washer briefly to create thick, foamy bubbles). This creates a wash and rinse bucket.

Start by saturating your wash mitt in the shampoo solution, and then simply place the wash mitt onto the vehicle. Working from the top of the vehicle down, do not apply any additional pressure to the mitt, ensure the mitt travels smoothly over the selected area, once you have covered all the selected area place the wash mitt into the rinse bucket. by doing this you will release any hard particles / dirt trapped within the mitt ensuring they are not put into contact with your vehicles paint.

STEP 4: Final Rinse

Now you have successfully pre-washed and washed your vehicle you can now give it a final rinse to remove any excess shampoo, and leave the paints surfaces as clean as possible before the drying stage. Conduct this rinse in exactly the same manor as the rinse you performed at the start of the washing process.

STEP 5: Drying

Drying your car is to be done with the up most of care. This final stage of washing your vehicle is actually the one which can inflict the most damage if you are not careful. The use of a water blade or another drying tool which makes direct contact with the paint should be prohibited at all times as any piece of dirt left over from the washing stage will be dragged across the paint leaving swirls and scratches behind. The best way to dry your vehicle is to use a deep-pile microfibre drying towel, starting from the top of the vehicle and working down gently pat the painted surface(never rub / drag the towel), this will eliminate the risk of causing damage or marring to the paint.

Claying is one of the best and easiest ways to remove bonded contaminants from your paintwork.

Claying is one of the easiest steps in removing bonded contaminants, it is a vital step in preparing your cars paint if you wish to machine polish, and apply polishes, waxes or sealants.

Equipment Required

• Pressure Washer
• Clay Bar & Clay Lube
• Drying Towel or Microfibre Cloth

STEP 1: Wash Your Car

The first step of decontaminating your vehicles paintwork is to wash your car thoroughly (more info on how to do this is available in our Safe Washing Guide).

STEP 2: Claying Process

Claying is relatively easy. Start by breaking off a portion of the clay bar (a portion similar to the size of a golf ball will be ideal), work the clay in your hands until it can be moulded easily, once you can manipulate its shape with ease the clay is then ready for working on your paint.

Clay one panel at a time or larger body panels (i.e. bonnet) split them into sections. Spray the panel liberally with the Clay Lube ensuring most of the panel has a thin film of lube covering it. Begin by stretching out the clay so it is roughly 5-6cm square in shape, place it on the body panel and move back and forth in straight lines (the clay should move freely across the body panel, if not apply more lube) the feeling will be a little bumpy/rough at first as the roughness you are feeling is all the bonded contaminants on your paint, once these are removed the clay will glide across the paintwork without any hesitation and it will feel like glass.

Repeat the motion across the entire panel, adding more lube if required until you have successfully covered its entire surface. You can then carefully dab the drying towel on the surface to remove any excess lube to leave a dry panel behind. Once the portion of clay you are using has become ‘full’, it has changed colour and is no longer removing contaminants but actually harming your paint, you can either fold it over to expose a fresh side of clay or start with a new portion.

Repeat this process of spraying lube, claying and drying until you have covered every panel on the car. And remember to work from the top of the vehicle down, as you don’t want to accidently drag any dirt / tar from the bottom of the car upwards hindering the paints finish.

Remember: If you drop the clay at any point on the floor throw it away and continue with a fresh portion.

Top Tip: If the weather is cold outside place a second portion of clay in a mug of warm water. This way once your current portion has been used you will have another ready for action within seconds.

Wheel Maintenance Guide

Maintaining your wheels is a vital part of keep a car looking its best; follow this simply process to achieve outstanding results and wheels which are easy to keep looking their best all year round.

Equipment Required

• Pressure Washer or Hose Pipe
• Wheel Cleaning Brushes
• Wheel Cleaner (preferably non-acidic)
• Iron Removal product (i.e. Valet Pro Dragons Breath, Britemax Iron Max)
• Tar / Adhesive Remover (i.e. Valet Pro Citrus Tar and Glue Remover)
• All Purpose Cleaner / Citrus Pre-Wash
• Drying Towel
• All In One Polish (i.e. Autoglym Super Resin Polish, Britemax A.I.O)
• Wheel Sealant (i.e. Poorboys Wheel Sealant)
• Tyre Dressing

STEP 1: Cleaning / Washing your wheels

Cleaning your wheels should be done using a non-acidic wheel cleaner where possible and with a mixture of suitable brushes. In this instance we are using Valet Pro – Billberry Wheel Cleaner through one of our 1litre Bottles with the Foaming Head attached (this gives a similar action to the wheel cleaner as if using snow foam, lifting the dirt from the wheel).

Rinse the wheel thorough, and then liberally spray the wheel cleaner over the entire wheel. Using a selection of brushes gently agitate the wheel cleaner and ensure no parts of the wheel have been missed. Leave the wheel cleaner to work for approx. 5 minutes, and whilst this is working spray the tyres and inner arches with APC or a Citrus Pre-Wash, this will ensure no residue of tyre shine, dirt anything else is left. Thoroughly rinse to complete this step.

STEP 2: Decontamination (if starting from scratch)

Decontamination plays a key role in how your wheels look and their overall finish. Many people talk about iron removal product which are used on the bodywork of the car, but the place it really matters is the wheels. With many of the braking components manufactured using Iron, this is then released into the wheels painted finish upon braking.

The first step in decontaminating your wheels is to give them a rinse off and clean with wheel cleaner. Either a Pressure Washer or Hose Pipe will be suitable, this is to ensure any loose dirt/grime is removed before you begin the decon stage meaning the iron removing chemical can achieve its best results without having to work through mud, dirt and other soilings first.

To decontaminate your wheels using an Iron removal product simply spray the product of your choice into the wheel, leave for approx. 5 minutes (you should see the solution turn purple), and then rinse thoroughly. Repeat this process for all 4 wheels. You can also spray/apply a Tar removing product to remove any suborn spots of tar or glue left over from the balance weights, again apply and rinse accordingly. For a more indepth guide on how to correctly decontaminate your wheels please see ourDecontamination Guide.

STEP 3: Drying

Drying your wheels can be done in a similar manor to your paint (remember to use a different drying towel for Bodywork and wheels). If you have taken the wheels off then great, this step is very easy, if not do not worry but in some cases it is hard to fully dry the insides of the wheel.

This process is very similar to drying the bodywork of your vehicle, simply pat the surface to remove the water and repeat until fully dry.

STEP 4: Polish

Now you have successfully decontaminated, cleaned and dried your wheels you’re now ready for a bit of the added bling factor.

Not many people do this step but it’s one that makes a real difference. By simply applying an All In One polish to the wheels you will hide the majority of the swirls / lighter scratches and give an added gloss to the finish.

Simply apply the A.I.O polish of your choice (in this case we used Britemax A.I.O) using a clean foam applicator, allow to haze and then buff with a microfibre cloth. Repeat for each of the wheels (outside and inside if possible) and you will be left with 4 very clean and glossy wheels.

STEP 5: Protection

The biggest part in this wheel maintenance guide is protecting the wheels so you do not have to repeat all the hard work you have just done. Adding a layer of protection to the wheels will enhance their ability to repel any iron contaminants and they will repel dirt and brake dust (making it easier when it comes to cleaning them in the future).

In this instance we used Poorboys Wheel Sealant, there are numerous wheel sealants on the market but this product doesn’t cost a fortune and gives just as much protection as the more expensive brands.

Wheel sealants are different to bodywork sealants, they are specifically designed to work in an environment which spends most of its time covered in brake dust, roads grime, iron contaminants and gets very hot. For this reason we would not recommend using a product designed for your bodywork.

Apply the product in thin layers and leave to cure for around 20-30 minutes, buffing off after. If you wish to add even more protection then add additional layers of wheel sealant which will enhance its ability to repel all the harmful deposits from the road/brakes even better.

STEP 6: Tyre Dressing

Tyre Dressing adds that little touch that really makes a difference. At Shop ‘n’ Shine we love Poorboys Bold 'n' Bright Gel as it adds an amazing gloss to the tyre without it flicking all over the bodywork (if applied correctly).

The best way to apply Tyre Shine is through thin even coats. Apply 1 thin coat, leave for 10 minutes and apply a second. This way you will have the deep glossy look, a finish that will last longer than most, and it won’t fling off onto your freshly cleaned bodywork the first time you drive the car.

[ukcal]

I pretty much would recommend everything people have suggested. I have tons of Autoglym stuff now and all of it does a brilliant job. I find a pressure washer good for a decent rinse, though I don't wash with it. A microfibre mitt does that job for me.

As long as you have arm power and microfibre cloths, you can't really go wrong. Avoid direct sunlight, or be prepared to remove watermarks!

Also, I recently tried Autoglym Aqua Wax. I was sceptical, but it is actually really good and water was beading all over the car despite recent heavy rainfall!

amazon usually has good prices on Autoglym stuff, though 3 for 2 at Halfwords may make them cheaper, depending on what you buy :)

[little oz2]

wow lots of brilliant guides thank you very much everyone, definitely gonna look at getting a clay mitt as these look really good,

The missus is already moaning at how much things would cost just to make the car look nice haha, she said what's wrong with the cleaning stuff at the local garage haha

[MarksST]

wow lots of brilliant guides thank you very much everyone, definitely gonna look at getting a clay mitt as these look really good,

The missus is already moaning at how much things would cost just to make the car look nice haha, she said what's wrong with the cleaning stuff at the local garage haha

Be careful, it's a slippery slope.

[little oz2]

Be careful, it's a slippery slope.

Is it worth it though? haha

[ukcal]

Is it worth it though? haha

If your car is your pride and joy, yes.

If a car is "just a car", keep taking it to the hand car wash for a fiver :)

[little oz2]

If your car is your pride and joy, yes.

If a car is "just a car", keep taking it to the hand car wash for a fiver :)

I love my car, best birthday present ever haha!!

[Jeff4155]

even with a orbital polisher I find that lifting a feather the next day tiresome ;)

it's still worth the workout.