No problem mate, it's our own risk whatever we try. As you say this is the beauty of this forum, to help share the findings. I will try splicing straight in to 11 and 22 to report back, but not sure it will work without a module? Wonder if the module is doing something with the signal.

The other option is to reroute the original wire from the FCIM to the for card and maybe split it to both the lock and unlock button, meaning you could press either button to lock/unlock. If that would work...

James

So for the original switch, was it just one button? And did that button also unlock when repressed or did you just try to open the door with the handle to unlock? 

So for the original switch, was it just one button? And did that button also unlock when repressed or did you just try to open the door with the handle to unlock? 

The Center console button did both the locking and unlocking and it was a single button :)


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@JPW on the F150 Spreadsheet there is an option for trim switch enable in the BCM. I'm not 100% sure it for the door lock, but maybe worth a punt. Its 726 20 02.

Edited January 1, 20206 yr by Nathan Buffery
Wrong wording.

@Nathan Buffery

Looks like it's specific to the F150 and a time inhibitor option

https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6797

As Monks600 said it was a single button on the front fascia that toggled the lock status of the car.

[mention=104075]Nathan Buffery[/mention]
Looks like it's specific to the F150 and a time inhibitor option
https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6797
As Monks600 said it was a single button on the front fascia that toggled the lock status of the car.

I suppose pulling the head unit Facia and trying the new lock with a few extra wires pokes in to the connector may be the way forward... that’s just to see if it will actually work... then if it does, there comes the nightmare of routing a new set of cables from the headunit across and into the drivers side door... unless there’s some unused cables on the door looom then you could probably cut before the door and just join and attach. Saves messing around with the whole rubber grommet and stuff on the door hinge.


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I guess what I need to know is, will a facelift door module work in my car as can get one for around £20. Also, although unused according to the wiring diagram, wires 11 and 22 of the existing door module connector are present in my car, so I wonder if I can find out where they route back to?

I would have thought it must be possible to make it work by tapping in to some wiring in the door though. After all, when you open the driver door from the inside, it unlocks all the doors, so it must be using some wiring. If I know what and can make the button press simulate the door handle being opened...

I guess what I need to know is, will a facelift door module work in my car as can get one for around £20. Also, although unused according to the wiring diagram, wires 11 and 22 of the existing door module connector are present in my car, so I wonder if I can find out where they route back to?
I would have thought it must be possible to make it work by tapping in to some wiring in the door though. After all, when you open the driver door from the inside, it unlocks all the doors, so it must be using some wiring. If I know what and can make the button press simulate the door handle being opened...

You explained this better than I did :) that’s what I was trying to get at.

I don’t know if the wiring for the door handle disengaging to unlock is in the actual lock itself or goes that way? Would be handy if the wires could be traced back and literally splice in to them unusual wires from the headunit Facia connector. There’s got to be some way of doing it :)


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Here's the original fascia, you  an see the lock/unlock button above the hazard button. It was a single button and also has the lock status led on it that lit up when the doors are locked

Here's the original fascia, you  an see the lock/unlock button above the hazard button. It was a single button and also has the lock status led on it that lit up when the doors are locked

Exactly the same model I ripped from my ST also.
I’ll have a dig round mine at weekend and see what I do and don’t have.

Mines the ST-2 and I believe the ST-3 used the same wiring looms but they just taped off the connectors or deactivated the pins in some modules.


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It's more than just a handle pull as if the car doors are locked (I have auto lock all doors when driving away enabled in CCC via Focccus) and you pull the handle to open the driver door, it removes the lock status and unlocks all doors, so must be sending a signal of some sorts...

It's more than just a handle pull as if the car doors are locked (I have auto lock all doors when driving away enabled in CCC via Focccus) and you pull the handle to open the driver door, it removes the lock status and unlocks all doors, so must be sending a signal of some sorts...

Same here, that feature got really annoying soon as I upgraded to sync 2 and didn’t have a central locking button lol.

Now when I pull up to pick the mrs up I have to pull the drivers handle. Locks the boot also :/


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So there must be a way!

Anyone know where the wires to the door module come from? Direct from BCM? (Where is that located?) or is there a wiring block under drivers side someplace?

So there must be a way!
Anyone know where the wires to the door module come from? Direct from BCM? (Where is that located?) or is there a wiring block under drivers side someplace?

I believe the BCM is actually the fuse box located under the passenger glove box. It looks like a fuse box but on the behind is all the circuit boards etc.

If you look on eBay for body control module it is literally a fuse box


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Got it. I would expect there to be a join near drivers footwell then rather than the wiring going direct?

Got it. I would expect there to be a join near drivers footwell then rather than the wiring going direct?

I don’t think there is... I remember looking at the back off mine and there are massive block connectors with hundreds of little wires going in to the back.

I only know this as I had to reset my BCM due to an indicator flashing issue


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Here is the wiring diagram for the central locking on my 2012 Focus. Looking at the blue/orange lines I added, I would have thought tapping in to wires 11 / 22 on the door module would do the trick as they are circuit CPL42 and CPL43, which, if you look at the facelift door module, pins 11 and 22 these are the same circuit references as the Switch door lock and unlock buttons.

(Might need to zoom in)

Gonna have another go tomorrow, any thoughts?

It's worth a try. It's a bit strange though, as all the wires going to the latch are black. 

Same on the facelift module. But why does it matter that they are black?

I just assumed that the black wires signified neutral or earth. 

Another potential problem I was thinking of if you are either taking the lock/unlock signal from the latch or, as @JW1982 was suggesting, from a fob switch, is surely the car will think it's being locked from the key and therefore activate the alarm/immobilser. 

I don't think so as it's the internal lock not external so shouldn't activate the full lock? Looking at the wiring it's the same circuit so think it's ok. However using the key fob method I agree, it would probably think it's a full lock and arm.

Just tried again and no joy. So the options are a facelift door module or run two wires from the old FCIM or BCM. Trying to avoid pulling the fasica and stereo all out again to get access to splice the FCIM cable. Might be easier to just wire from BCM as they go back there. 

Next task is to work out how to get wires to the door...

To be able to run wires to the driver door you have to take the door off. 

The grommet/tube contains a connector at the vehicle body side. This can only be disconnected after the door is removed. To run additional wires to the door you either need to use the correct connector pins or drill a small hole inside the connector and run the wires directly to the door.