"Ghost" unlocking by themself. [FIESTA MK6.5]

[Uncle Tommy]

Hi,

I currenty owned Fiesta 2006 (Mk6.5) 1.4 petrol.

I have strange issues that something really new and I never seen before. When the door is locked, it doesn't automatically play unlock by themself but when I left the door are unlocked, it does sometime unlocking playing by themself but not really often (only happen when engine isn't running). I have noticed sometime it's cannot active deadlock. I just so puzzle strange issues, and it's doesn't have visible warning light active.

 

Simplify the fault;

> Only unlocking by themself when door is unlock and engine is not running (I haven't pressing button).

> Most time it's refused active deadlock (pressing lock twice).

> Key have good and fresh battery (it's new key due old one is worned out and new key have working button plus I have old key as spare).

> No fault light on dashboard.

 

Does anyone have same issues as mine or familler before I decided sent off to Ford dealership to doing investigation the issues. I'm hoped anyone know problem without costing arm and leg.

[TheMcSame]

There is a similar issue that is relatively common where the car will randomly unlock/try to unlock itself while you're in the car which no one seems to know a fix for, though I'm currently testing an idea myself (will mention it further down the post for anyone also suffering).

Just for a comparison:

Unlike your fault, the lock state of the door and engine running/not running doesn't matter. It does it regardless. 

My car did previously have issues deadlocking. It seemed very inconsistent, sometimes it would deadlock, sometimes it just wouldn't no matter what. However, I recently retrofit some powerfold mirrors and while I was tinkering in Forscan, I did change some of the other options as well. One of those options being single press double locking, which, if it wasn't obviously, means one press of the lock button will deadlock the car and I've had a 100% success rate for deadlocking ever since.

Now, I didn't realise at the time, but there might be a reason for that... The car only does it when I'm in it, deadlocking with standard settings was iffy... It wasn't until I tried changing the battery in my fob that it clicked. When I opened it up, I noticed the circuit board inside wasn't properly secured and was allowed to rotate to some degree.

So the idea I'm currently trialing is that it was a dodgy connection because of a broken plastic piece in my fob... Of course... This leads me to problem with this thread... You state this is a new key, so, theoretically, this shouldn't be a problem.

Best thing I can say is just double check the key to make sure the circuit board inside is being held properly and not allowed to rotate within the fob. For those of you using older keys and suffering with an issue like this, again, just check the fob. I can't confirm that this is a fix as it's still early days for my testing, but so far it hasn't happened. 

If the board isn't being held properly you can buy replacement casing on eBay or something like that. When you do go to replace the key, just replace the half with the buttons on it as it's just a quick swap as opposed to replacing the whole casing, which would require you to start messing about with the immobiliser chip in your key.

OP: I have no idea if this might be the cause because it sounds like a slightly different issue. But I suppose those suffering with the same issue I have been suffering with might gravitate towards this thread and this might help them. Fingers cross it helps you as well.

[Uncle Tommy]

12 hours ago, TheMcSame said:

There is a similar issue that is relatively common where the car will randomly unlock/try to unlock itself while you're in the car which no one seems to know a fix for, though I'm currently testing an idea myself (will mention it further down the post for anyone also suffering).

Just for a comparison:

Unlike your fault, the lock state of the door and engine running/not running doesn't matter. It does it regardless. 

My car did previously have issues deadlocking. It seemed very inconsistent, sometimes it would deadlock, sometimes it just wouldn't no matter what. However, I recently retrofit some powerfold mirrors and while I was tinkering in Forscan, I did change some of the other options as well. One of those options being single press double locking, which, if it wasn't obviously, means one press of the lock button will deadlock the car and I've had a 100% success rate for deadlocking ever since.

Now, I didn't realise at the time, but there might be a reason for that... The car only does it when I'm in it, deadlocking with standard settings was iffy... It wasn't until I tried changing the battery in my fob that it clicked. When I opened it up, I noticed the circuit board inside wasn't properly secured and was allowed to rotate to some degree.

So the idea I'm currently trialing is that it was a dodgy connection because of a broken plastic piece in my fob... Of course... This leads me to problem with this thread... You state this is a new key, so, theoretically, this shouldn't be a problem.

Best thing I can say is just double check the key to make sure the circuit board inside is being held properly and not allowed to rotate within the fob. For those of you using older keys and suffering with an issue like this, again, just check the fob. I can't confirm that this is a fix as it's still early days for my testing, but so far it hasn't happened. 

If the board isn't being held properly you can buy replacement casing on ebay or something like that. When you do go to replace the key, just replace the half with the buttons on it as it's just a quick swap as opposed to replacing the whole casing, which would require you to start messing about with the immobiliser chip in your key.

OP: I have no idea if this might be the cause because it sounds like a slightly different issue. But I suppose those suffering with the same issue I have been suffering with might gravitate towards this thread and this might help them. Fingers cross it helps you as well.

My old key have movement issues. It's flip style I put circuit board on flip key from working old key. The screw is badly messed up (the head completed round) and unable to repair therefore I got new key. Old key have moving circuit board but they rarely used (All button never work). I have run check new key, takes apart (not battery or circuit board) cleaned up make sure no dusty. Still doesn't solved issues with dead lock, it work but sometime it's won't. (I pressed unlock wait till indictor flash finished then I press twice lock). I don't think it active deadlock by single pressing. How I get Forscan, I need check to see what going. Or, it's might need re-programming key?!

[TheMcSame]

14 hours ago, Uncle Tommy said:

My old key have movement issues. It's flip style I put circuit board on flip key from working old key. The screw is badly messed up (the head completed round) and unable to repair therefore I got new key. Old key have moving circuit board but they rarely used (All button never work). I have run check new key, takes apart (not battery or circuit board) cleaned up make sure no dusty. Still doesn't solved issues with dead lock, it work but sometime it's won't. (I pressed unlock wait till indictor flash finished then I press twice lock). I don't think it active deadlock by single pressing. How I get Forscan, I need check to see what going. Or, it's might need re-programming key?!

Is there any movement of the circuit board in the new key? If it isn't the key then the only other thing I can think of is some sort of issue with the central locking, be it a wiring issue (I.E poor grounding or shorting somewhere) or something with the actual module itself.

Forscan can be downloaded for free (for monitoring), for anything more in-depth you're going to need to activate the trial license or buy a license. You'll also need a OBD reader with an ELM 327 chip. You can risk it with cheap Chinese clones, or go with a genuine piece of hardware which will probably set you back about £50 or £60. I'm sure other members can direct you to a reliable clone if you ask around. You'll also need a portable computer (I.E Laptop or a Windows Tablet) and the appropriate usb adapters if your chosen computer doesn't use the standard Type A USB connector, the smartphone app doesn't allow module configuration IIRC. Alternatively, you could probably Jerry rig something with some USB extensions if you only have a desktop computer, but I'd question the reliability of the connection.

Though remember, my mentioning of Forscan is not a means of solving this issue. I just found that for my similar issue, it massively improved the reliability of deadlocking by switching it from double press to single press. There's also a few other nifty features you can change as well, no harm in picking it up if you plan to buy compatible vehicles in the future. What appears to have solved my similar issue is replacing the circuit board housing portion of the key. As your key is new, it could be something else entirely.

[Uncle Tommy]

On 6/17/2021 at 11:20 PM, TheMcSame said:

Is there any movement of the circuit board in the new key? If it isn't the key then the only other thing I can think of is some sort of issue with the central locking, be it a wiring issue (I.E poor grounding or shorting somewhere) or something with the actual module itself.

Forscan can be downloaded for free (for monitoring), for anything more in-depth you're going to need to activate the trial license or buy a license. You'll also need a OBD reader with an ELM 327 chip. You can risk it with cheap Chinese clones, or go with a genuine piece of hardware which will probably set you back about £50 or £60. I'm sure other members can direct you to a reliable clone if you ask around. You'll also need a portable computer (I.E Laptop or a Windows Tablet) and the appropriate usb adapters if your chosen computer doesn't use the standard Type A USB connector, the smartphone app doesn't allow module configuration IIRC. Alternatively, you could probably Jerry rig something with some USB extensions if you only have a desktop computer, but I'd question the reliability of the connection.

Though remember, my mentioning of Forscan is not a means of solving this issue. I just found that for my similar issue, it massively improved the reliability of deadlocking by switching it from double press to single press. There's also a few other nifty features you can change as well, no harm in picking it up if you plan to buy compatible vehicles in the future. What appears to have solved my similar issue is replacing the circuit board housing portion of the key. As your key is new, it could be something else entirely.

New key was dust cleaned up and no movement circuit. I just simple eBay or amazon type "Forscan" and there some of cable optional?