Mk2.5 Keyless Alarm Disarm

[TomsFocus]

Anyone know how to stop the alarm going off after using the hidden key blade in the door barrel?

battery is so flat that the remote unlock won't work, but there may still be power in the alarm battery so I want to know how to stop it before attempting to use the barrel.  (Though I think we all know the barrel will be seized anyway lol.)

The handbook doesn't make any sense, says to turn the key in the ignition for keyless models.

[mjt]

Are you talking about the vehicle battery or the fob battery being flat Tom?

Our old Mk3 had keyless start and on those occasions where it had been left so long it had gone into deep sleep I would have to use the hidden blade to unlock the drivers door manually which would set the alarm off. To cancel it was only necesary to depress the clutch and start the engine with the button. If the fob battery was flat it would have been necessary to remove a cap where the ignition switch would have been and fit the fob there so the system could recognise the passive chip.

I don't know what would have happened if the car battery was too flat to start the car but I think just turning on the ignition (by pressing the start button without depressing the clutch) would cancel the alarm. Maybe someone else can confirm this.

I've no experience with keyless entry so can't advise on that.

[TomsFocus]

14 hours ago, mjt said:

Are you talking about the vehicle battery or the fob battery being flat Tom?

Our old Mk3 had keyless start and on those occasions where it had been left so long it had gone into deep sleep I would have to use the hidden blade to unlock the drivers door manually which would set the alarm off. To cancel it was only necesary to depress the clutch and start the engine with the button. If the fob battery was flat it would have been necessary to remove a cap where the ignition switch would have been and fit the fob there so the system could recognise the passive chip.

I don't know what would have happened if the car battery was too flat to start the car but I think just turning on the ignition (by pressing the start button without depressing the clutch) would cancel the alarm. Maybe someone else can confirm this.

I've no experience with keyless entry so can't advise on that.

Thanks Mike, I've also done it on the Mk3, but the Mk2 keyless system seems to be setup very differently.  The fob is huge (much larger than the non-keyless type) so that's not going to fit in a steering column 'cage' like the Mk3 has.

It is the car battery that has gone flat.  I don't expect the engine to start.  I'm unsure if there will be enough power to even switch the ignition on.

The fob has a tiny LED in it that flashes when I press the unlock button so I think the fob battery is still good.

[DaveT70]

Open door with key

Open bonnet

Connect power pack or jump leads

turn off alarm with remote

Keyless sensor is under cupholders on MK2.5

[TomsFocus]

Thanks Dave.  Sensor location is the main info I was after. 

Don't think I can lift the bonnet to connect jump pack though, that's why I'm hesitant to allow the alarm to go off.  Might just have to leave it and advertise as non-runner now.

[DaveT70]

Just now, TomsFocus said:

Don't think I can lift the bonnet to connect jump pack though

Why not?

[TomsFocus]

Just now, DaveT70 said:

Why not?

Don't have the strength to do much at all any more.  Haven't been able to drive for over a year now due to health issues, I have mentioned it a few times on here.  Just about managed to open the bonnet and jump it back in April, but I don't think that's going to be possible now.

[DaveT70]

I'm sorry to hear that buddy

[TomsFocus]

**Update Feb 2023**

Finally got round to opening the Mk2.5 this week.  battery was initially so flat the alarm wasn't a concern.

Put the jump pack on the battery yesterday, using manual override - dash woke but still no alarm. 

Put the emergency key blade in the ignition hole - still not sure what this actually does?  There's no immob chip in the emergency blade is there?

Left the keyless fob in my pocket and started the engine.  Didn't have to place it in the cupholder.  But here's where it gets weird - the immobiliser light wouldn't stop flashing fast all the time the engine was running.  The doors wouldn't lock using the remote either. 

Once the engine was shut off, it still wouldn't lock using the remote, and it wouldn't restart either.  Initially displayed 'immob fault', but within about a minute or two the battery had lost too much charge to attempt starting again anyway.

Interested to know your thoughts...  Is it just due to low 12v battery and will be fine with that replaced?  Is it due to low remote battery (although the remote LED flashes when pressed).  Or is it likely to be the cluster/GEM at fault?  In which case I'll just give up and sell it for spares or repair rather than wasting £70 on a new 12v battery.

[TomsFocus]

Does anyone know the exact battery specs that the Mk2.5 1.6 TDCI Titanium came with in 2010? 

It's already on it's 5th battery (the service history is mostly batteries lol!) so can't rely on the fitted battery specs to be correct.

[unofix]

As far as I remember it was a Silver Calcium 65Ah 650CCA

Sorry I don't have the information on the original Ford battery (took the old battery to the tip last year).

[TomsFocus]

Seems to be more difficult finding silver calcium batteries than I remember.

Does any cheaper brand use solely silver calcium tech?  It doesn't seem to be listed on battery spec websites so having to check each one individually.

I want as cheap as possible as car will be sold asap but don't want to leave the new owner with a ticking time bomb of a battery either.

 

[TomsFocus]

On 2/26/2023 at 9:23 AM, TomsFocus said:

Put the emergency key blade in the ignition hole - still not sure what this actually does?  There's no immob chip in the emergency blade is there?

Left the keyless fob in my pocket and started the engine.  Didn't have to place it in the cupholder.  But here's where it gets weird - the immobiliser light wouldn't stop flashing fast all the time the engine was running.  The doors wouldn't lock using the remote either. 

Just wanted to update this for any future readers.

There IS a chip in the original emergency key blade handle to be used in the fake key barrel.  There doesn't seem to be in the aftermarket replacement I have! 

This does raise a few questions though.  Like why did the engine start with no immob chip?  (Albeit then flashing the red light and showing immob message on dash).

And secondly, why would anyone supply this fob!?  It doesn't fit the bonnet lock properly and can't shut off the immob in the emergency position.  Cost the previous owner £150!

Now, only thing I can think of is that I did have the rest of the fob in my pocket, so it's possible the keyless receiver picked that up for the initial start.

On a side note, I was checking the batteries in these fobs.  The OE one didn't work when I got the car last year.  battery is totally dead, and presumably has been for over a year.  Will be interesting to see if it syncs fine with a new battery!  Also found out the radio code in the book does not unlock the radio, so I'll have to grab the serial number and get the code online after fitting a new 12v battery.