I'm genuinely surprised it's still running! 😮 

Probably is just a faulty valve rather than anything else causing it to fall apart.  I'd try another valve first.

New vac pumps are so expensive, but as Ford don't sell the valves separately, the only way to get a good quality valve is by buying the whole pump assembly.

Used vac pumps are a risk as you won't know if it's come from an engine with a clogged oil pump which can wreck the vac pump if left for too long.

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

I'm genuinely surprised it's still running! 😮 

Probably is just a faulty valve rather than anything else causing it to fall apart.  I'd try another valve first.

New vac pumps are so expensive, but as Ford don't sell the valves separately, the only way to get a good quality valve is by buying the whole pump assembly.

Used vac pumps are a risk as you won't know if it's come from an engine with a clogged oil pump which can wreck the vac pump if left for too long.

Will try another from somewhere else then first thanks and me too I get anxious every time I drive it 🫣🤣

17 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Sorry to bother you again @TomsFocus but does this mean I need a new vac pump? Constantly falling apart or is it something else like the solenoid? 

Just replace that one way valve, you can get them off ebay etc

Well worth a try. The silicone diaphragm inside starts to deteriorate, leading to intermittent loss of vacuum to the turbo actuator.

I’d already bought 2 previously but none seem to stay together unless I glue them but im worried it may cause more damage 

Do you have any local breakers yards?  I wonder if you could pick up 2 or 3 valves cheaply from different cars.  Hopefully one of them will be genuine.  I've heard of the cheap eBay ones being crap but it looks like there are only two different types on eBay!

12 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Do you have any local breakers yards?  I wonder if you could pick up 2 or 3 valves cheaply from different cars.  Hopefully one of them will be genuine.  I've heard of the cheap eBay ones being crap but it looks like there are only two different types on eBay!

I do but they either have no fiestas in (no idea how🤣) or they only sell the pump almost at full retail price also I’ve noticed the car started to continue to rev when the clutch is in and the throttle is off 🫤 usually in 3rd gear around 2.5k-3k revs at first I thought nothing of it but it’s getting more and more recently (probably started just after the turbo was replaced) 

10 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

I do but they either have no fiestas in (no idea how🤣) or they only sell the pump almost at full retail price also I’ve noticed the car started to continue to rev when the clutch is in and the throttle is off 🫤 usually in 3rd gear around 2.5k-3k revs at first I thought nothing of it but it’s getting more and more recently (probably started just after the turbo was replaced) 

Rev hang may be caused by a faulty clutch switch.  The PCM tries to match the revs for a smoother gearchange when you press the clutch.  Odd that it's only happening in one gear though.  I'd probably just ignore it for now...

34 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Rev hang may be caused by a faulty clutch switch.  The PCM tries to match the revs for a smoother gearchange when you press the clutch.  Odd that it's only happening in one gear though.  I'd probably just ignore it for now...

I think it might be because I only use low revs in 1st and 2nd so I might give it a go later and see if it does it in all gears and I did say that it’s one thing after another didn’t I with this car 🤣😬

@TomsFocus hi it’s me again 🤣 I was driving yesterday and the car bogged down and kept doing it if I put my foot down a bit then I got home with no lights on and then when I restarted the car, engine management light came on so I scanned it and got a code p0030 saying bank 1 sensor 1 or something like that can’t remember it exactly but I was wondering if it is just the sensor and how would I check just the sensor is or is not working

3 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

@TomsFocus hi it’s me again 🤣 I was driving yesterday and the car bogged down and kept doing it if I put my foot down a bit then I got home with no lights on and then when I restarted the car, engine management light came on so I scanned it and got a code p0030 saying bank 1 sensor 1 or something like that can’t remember it exactly but I was wondering if it is just the sensor and how would I check just the sensor is or is not working

P0030 is for the lambda sensor heater rather than the sensor itself.  You can test the heater using a basic resistance test on the pins of the plug with a mulimeter.  The sensor itself is not accurate when cold so they are heated with a coil of wire on modern cars to give more accurate readings.  

Sensor 1 is the one on the turbo...the one that's all chewed up on your car.   Mole grips and heat will probably be needed to remove it.

Ahh no worries will give it a go soon and if the sensor is faulty would it make the car drop revs when driving, felt like the car was braking for me 

Just now, Fordy8888 said:

Ahh no worries will give it a go soon and if the sensor is faulty would it make the car drop revs when driving, felt like the car was braking for me 

Maybe...

I'd expect the ECU to ignore the lambda readings and just run a default map when it senses a lambda fault.  But it may also trigger limp mode on the 1.0EB engine.

No worries thanks will try get it off now 🤞

@TomsFocus does all these look okay? I’ve checked online but no one seems to give a straight answer and I’ve not a clue  as when I rev the car the o2 sensor doesn’t seem to react to anything and I’m not sure if it’s mean to either 🤷‍♂️🤣

also these are the fault codes I was talking about yesterday managed to get the sensor out but no visible damage 

There won't be any visible damage.  You'll need a multimeter to test the heater circuit.

The O2 sensor isn't used when the engine's cold.  The ECU uses a default map known as 'open loop' until the engine is warm.  The very low mA reading is probably because the sensor is too cold, but honestly I wouldn't bother testing it like that.  If the heater is dead then the sensor needs to be replaced anyway.

There is normally a Fuse for the O2 Sensors Heater Circuits in the under bonnet Fuse Box.

Wideband Front Sensors are different to the old style ones and the Current stays very close to 0 most of the time when everything is working correctly and the car is in Closed Loop, which may take ages or not happen if the Heater is not working on your car. It does briefly go either side of 0 when your right foot moves though.

There may be some other PID's for the O2S11 Heater Circuit that you can monitor but the fault code points to a faulty Sensor or Wiring or Fuse. 

Thanks I didn’t even know there was a “heater” inside the o2 sensor 🤣 shows how much I know also my turbos shot once again and it happened at the same time that fault arose 🤔 coincidence? 

5 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Thanks I didn’t even know there was a “heater” inside the o2 sensor 🤣 shows how much I know also my turbos shot once again and it happened at the same time that fault arose 🤔 coincidence? 

Stranger things have happened but the faults are unlikely to be related to each other.

Andddd it’s dead 🤣 tried to drive it to work this morning and it cut out once then I started it again and cut out maybe 5 seconds after driving it then it just doesn’t start at all like it hardly cranks 🫣

2 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Andddd it’s dead 🤣 tried to drive it to work this morning and it cut out once then I started it again and cut out maybe 5 seconds after driving it then it just doesn’t start at all like it hardly cranks 🫣

Dead battery finished off by the cold weather?  If the wetbelt had snapped it'd either lock solid or crank over really easily so probably not that. 🤔

Just plugged it in now 🫣🥶 please tell me it’s something else and not the belt 😂🤞

It's something else and not the belt.  

 

But seriously, those are bad codes.  I suspect the belt has not snapped BUT has slipped one or more teeth so the timing is out.

Yeah that was my thought too but stupid me in a rush for work tried to start it twice second time didn’t nothing just sounded like it was really hard to crank 😬 I got to work and they sent me home as I was late 🤣 told me to come back next week for disciplinary thanks FORD 🤣

@TomsFocusI have a feeling I’ve smashed things and I was looking at getting a total new engine replacement but when I googled which engine it is I came across a post that you commented on but not sure what you mean as mines the 140ps and originally thought all 1l engines was the same apart from the new models  

“MOJB won't fit.  That's the later 1.0 engine with chain driven cam and the turbo at the back, totally different to yours.

YYJB is the 140ps version, so will be quite difficult to find.  They used a different headgasket to the 100/125ps engines for a higher compression ratio.  So really you do need to find another 140ps engine to replace it with.” 

Also I contacted the financial ombudsman who’s currently dealing with the car finance company and they said it will take up to march for me to even get an investigator on my case so I would either have to wait till then or bite the bullet and stick a new engine in for like 2k but then I still owe 8k on it and it’s a car with 108000m on it so it’s not even worth 2k anymore so I feel like it’s pointless but I’m In need of a car🤣