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Rattle/ticking noise + intermittent power loss

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Check the high pressure fuel line.  The one from the pump to the rail.



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  • When you fit the new one I would recommend you fit it to the pump first then attach the vacuum pipe to the new valve. The nipple on the valve is easy to break off.

  • It's a pretty crucial pipe unfortunately. The engine will run but the coolant won't be pressurised, it'll boil, and you'll be risking uneven head temps and potentially HGF. If you can tape

  • Are you sure the tensioner requires a T40. On my Focus it's a square and I just used a socket set extension bar and ratchet.

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Is there any visible evidence of a fuel leak?

Pull off the insulator cover to get a better look if you have one fitted.

  • Author
7 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Check the high pressure fuel line.  The one from the pump to the rail.

I had AA come look at it and one guy came and said he wouldn’t really know and just to take it to a garage, then he called me back and said he’s got someone who used to change the engines at least 1 a day at Ford so he came down and he was checking all the vac lines and the pump then he check the turbo and it moves around so freely you can hear it smacking off the side of the turbo housing so now I need a vac pump, solenoid and turbo 😫

12 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

so now I need a vac pump, solenoid and turbo

But ..........

Do the brakes work ? 🤣

10 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

I had AA come look at it and one guy came and said he wouldn’t really know and just to take it to a garage, then he called me back and said he’s got someone who used to change the engines at least 1 a day at Ford so he came down and he was checking all the vac lines and the pump then he check the turbo and it moves around so freely you can hear it smacking off the side of the turbo housing so now I need a vac pump, solenoid and turbo 😫

You don't seem to be having much luck with this one! :sad:  None of those things would create a fuel smell though. :unsure:

  • Author
On 7/31/2023 at 3:02 PM, RayC333 said:

Is there any visible evidence of a fuel leak?

Pull off the insulator cover to get a better look if you have one fitted.

The only thing I can see is when I take a pipe off the top of the block not sure if it’s breather pipe ? It’s next to the oil cap on the left But it has fuel all down it to the turbo intake.

16 hours ago, unofix said:

But ..........

Do the brakes work ? 🤣

honestly just about 🤣🤣 I swear made me giggle more than it should 😂 

6 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

You don't seem to be having much luck with this one! :sad:  None of those things would create a fuel smell though. :unsure:

No kidding 😅 never do with any cars I’ve had and this is the second fiesta I’ve had now last one gearbox went and broke driveshaft 😂😂 no idea why I bought another fiesta though and I travelled 250 miles to Colchester to pick it up😅😅

Not looking good. Firstly, there shouldn't be any fuel freely visible. Hard to pinpoint where it might be coming from without us being present but should be fixable. Be careful with fuel vapours around.

Also concerning is the diagnosis of the turbo turbine. The bearings must be quite worn to allow it to foul the turbo body.

You probably know all the components mentioned are expensive bought new. Even buying used from eBay or the like won't be cheap.

Would I be right in saying you don't currently have much mechanical experience? Maybe time to cut your losses 🙁

  • Author
1 hour ago, RayC333 said:

Not looking good. Firstly, there shouldn't be any fuel freely visible. Hard to pinpoint where it might be coming from without us being present but should be fixable. Be careful with fuel vapours around.

Also concerning is the diagnosis of the turbo turbine. The bearings must be quite worn to allow it to foul the turbo body.

You probably know all the components mentioned are expensive bought new. Even buying used from eBay or the like won't be cheap.

Would I be right in saying you don't currently have much mechanical experience? Maybe time to cut your losses 🙁

I’ve had a good look into it and can see I could buy the compressor wheel and looks easy enough to fit but I don’t know how to check if the solenoid is still working as the AA guy from Ford said it looks like that’s what caused it to go in the first place but he said try sort a turbo out and go from there but if the solenoid is damaged then will it not blow it again?

I’m unsure if the fuel smell is from that pipe I mentioned above leaking tiny part into the front of the turbo and being burnt up , as where the coolant lines are from the turbo going in and out there’s black soot on both of them and i don’t know if this is normal and also I like to think I know what I’m doing but sometimes I get a little worried I’ve missed something or done something wrong but I think I’m willing to try the compressor wheel myself. 
 

I mean what else can go wrong… 🤣🤣🤣

1 hour ago, Fordy8888 said:

Holy smoke! The parts you're showing are used to rebuild a turbo. With all due respect I think that is maybe too involved.

Your choice of course 🤔

Ps. A duff solenoid would cause turbo issues but it can't cause a turbo to mechanically fail. Your turbo may have been starved of oil or had low oil pressure - that's why the bearings go.

Edited by RayC333

  • Author
16 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

Holy smoke! The parts you're showing are used to rebuild a turbo. With all due respect I think that is maybe too involved.

Ohh yeah I know but this part doesn’t require balancing or anything of the kind and looks fairly easy if I’m honest and should the solenoid be holding vacuum from the actuator while the engine is off? If so then I think it maybe time to replace it as the AA guy came with a vac tester pump thingy 😂 and he took the pipe off either end and said it seems like it’s holding when blocked at one end but when he took the actuator end off and left the solenoid end on it wouldn’t hold

  • Author
3 hours ago, RayC333 said:

Maybe time to cut your losses 🙁

And unfortunately it’s on finance and still have 3 years left 😩

If the wastegate doesn't open then the turbo will overboost which can break it eventually. 

However, the PCM can detect overboost easily (using the MAP sensor) and will trigger limp mode every time it happens in order to protect the turbo.

Something doesn't seem right here tbh.  It's a shame you're stuck in a long term finance deal. :sad:

 

  • Author
1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

If the wastegate doesn't open then the turbo will overboost which can break it eventually. 

However, the PCM can detect overboost easily (using the MAP sensor) and will trigger limp mode every time it happens in order to protect the turbo.

Something doesn't seem right here tbh.  It's a shame you're stuck in a long term finance deal. :sad:

 

Funnily enough I’ve not had it go in limp mode once which is strange I think even with the turbo being as it is still no limp mode 🤔 and tbh I wish I was able to go back and not get a another fiesta 🤣

  • Author

@TomsFocus reckon that rattle noise I was on about could’ve been the turbo on its way out? 

11 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

reckon that rattle noise I was on about could’ve been the turbo on its way out? 

That would be my guess 👍

  • Author

Would the turbo being broken make the car shake quite bad when just starting and waiting for the needle to drop also sounds like it can’t be bothered to start like it struggles, I would’ve thought that would be something else and not the turbo as the turbo isn’t being used and something like the vac pump or solenoid has gone 🤔 

12 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

@TomsFocus reckon that rattle noise I was on about could’ve been the turbo on its way out? 

It's possible that noise was the turbine wheel hitting the housing and echoing through the exhaust pipe.  There's more sideways 'movement' on the turbo shaft when it starts to move, but it can then balance ok at higher speeds.  (Same effect as a washing machine spinning - clatters as it starts and ends the spin cycle, but spins fine at 1400rpm with minimal drum movement at that point).

As I say though, something doesn't seem right here.  Perhaps the turbo has been damaged by a lack of lubrication ultimately caused by a degrading wetbelt.  Perhaps the car has previously been remapped which has increased turbo boost and removed some of the safety features like overboost limp mode.  My main concern right now would be the fuel leak.  It only takes one spark or even a dropped cigarette butt blown under the car to set the whole car alight if fuel is leaking constantly.

  • Author
4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

It's possible that noise was the turbine wheel hitting the housing and echoing through the exhaust pipe.  There's more sideways 'movement' on the turbo shaft when it starts to move, but it can then balance ok at higher speeds.  (Same effect as a washing machine spinning - clatters as it starts and ends the spin cycle, but spins fine at 1400rpm with minimal drum movement at that point).

As I say though, something doesn't seem right here.  Perhaps the turbo has been damaged by a lack of lubrication ultimately caused by a degrading wetbelt.  Perhaps the car has previously been remapped which has increased turbo boost and removed some of the safety features like overboost limp mode.  My main concern right now would be the fuel leak.  It only takes one spark or even a dropped cigarette butt blown under the car to set the whole car alight if fuel is leaking constantly.

The fuel smell seems to be coming from the turbo in the heat shield where you have the slits it smells strong there and this breather pipe has either oil or fuel inside the pipe smells like fuel but has consistency of oil but my whole engine oil smells like fuel so it needs a oil change but why is there oil going through the induction pipe from the breather pipe🤔 same thing happened with a BMW 5 series I had but the oil kept disappearing but my fiestas oil level has been the same for a couple months now

image.jpg

image.jpg

Ok, it's normal to have a bit of oil going through the breather there.  Hopefully the petrol is just mixed in with the oil rather than actually leaking separately.

There shouldn't be any petrol behind the turbo heatshield so I'm not sure what to suggest for that.  Might be worth removing the heatshield for a better look if possible.

Some petrol will always end up in the oil.  It passes the piston rings when cold.  However too much petrol in there will start to thin down the oil and reduce the amount of lubrication it can offer.  So that could have contributed to the turbo bearing failure.

  • Author
56 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Ok, it's normal to have a bit of oil going through the breather there.  Hopefully the petrol is just mixed in with the oil rather than actually leaking separately.

There shouldn't be any petrol behind the turbo heatshield so I'm not sure what to suggest for that.  Might be worth removing the heatshield for a better look if possible.

Some petrol will always end up in the oil.  It passes the piston rings when cold.  However too much petrol in there will start to thin down the oil and reduce the amount of lubrication it can offer.  So that could have contributed to the turbo bearing failure.

I think my theory is that the oil is going into the turbo via that breather pipe and being burnt up inside the turbo and that’s where the smell is coming from ? Or it’s going into the oil feed in the turbo and that’s where the smell is also coming from 🤔 I’ve tried to get the heat shield off before but it’s like it’s stuck from the top but I removed all the bolts I could see also I’m sure now that the vac solenoid is gone as the car has a rough idle?

  • Author
6 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

It's possible that noise was the turbine wheel hitting the housing and echoing through the exhaust pipe.  There's more sideways 'movement' on the turbo shaft when it starts to move, but it can then balance ok at higher speeds.  (Same effect as a washing machine spinning - clatters as it starts and ends the spin cycle, but spins fine at 1400rpm with minimal drum movement at that point).

Ahh sorry I just remembered what you said above so maybe both solenoid and the turbo has gone ☹️ gonna be a expensive month that’s for sure 🤑

27 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

I think my theory is that the oil is going into the turbo via that breather pipe and being burnt up inside the turbo and that’s where the smell is coming from ? Or it’s going into the oil feed in the turbo and that’s where the smell is also coming from 🤔 I’ve tried to get the heat shield off before but it’s like it’s stuck from the top but I removed all the bolts I could see also I’m sure now that the vac solenoid is gone as the car has a rough idle?

The turbo is all 'sealed' though, you shouldn't be able to smell oil (and potentially petrol) outside of it unless it's leaking from the oil drain pipe or the boost pipe.

I'd persevere with the heatshield personally.  That's the only way we'll be able to inspect the turbo properly.

  • Author
44 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

The turbo is all 'sealed' though, you shouldn't be able to smell oil (and potentially petrol) outside of it unless it's leaking from the oil drain pipe or the boost pipe.

I'd persevere with the heatshield personally.  That's the only way we'll be able to inspect the turbo properly.

May I know if you have to take the rivets out the heat shield to get it off? As you can see in the right corner of the picture? As it was like it was still bolted on at the top once I removed 3 bolts that I could visibly see

 

3 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

 

image.jpg

 

1 hour ago, Fordy8888 said:

May I know if you have to take the rivets out the heat shield to get it off? As you can see in the right corner of the picture? As it was like it was still bolted on at the top once I removed 3 bolts that I could visibly see

No, the rivets stay.  There is one bolt that comes from the back right through the block heatshield.  You may have missed that one before.

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