There was a bolt holding the exhaust mount on.  The exhaust mount must have snapped off, hence that near-invisible welded repair.

The sump goes right up to the gearbox bellhousing.

Ahhh and you don’t happen to know where the pry locations are? And every time I’m looking under it I feel it’s been in a front end smash as windscreen is different and not heated and the front bumper has been changed and lots of thing under it are either missing or bent 🤔

2 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Ahhh and you don’t happen to know where the pry locations are? And every time I’m looking under it I feel it’s been in a front end smash as windscreen is different and not heated and the front bumper has been changed and lots of thing under it are either missing or bent 🤔

This one does seem to be a bit of a lemon.   I take it you haven't heard anything from the finance company yet?

Which part are you prying?  You will need to remove those 3 bellhousing bolts that go sideways through the sump.

Lets stop for a moment. The pump needs to be detached from the sump or there will be other work to do.

It looks as though you haven't dropped the exhaust down pipe. On a Focus I know it's not possible to manoeuvre the sump out or back in with it in place. The Fiesta is likely to be the same.

You've exposed the broken bolt nicely. Why not just saw it through somewhere near the pump. That will let you get it detached and the give you the possibility of removing the broken bolt from the sump later.

One you have removed all the bolts around the sump and the two bigger diameter ones into the gearbox, the pry location is a small slot you will see between the gearbox and sump at bottom dead centre.

Insert a large flat bladed screwdriver into the slot, push it in firmly - and at the same time push the handle of the screwdriver towards the gearbox side. The sump should then release.

 

39 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

This one does seem to be a bit of a lemon.   I take it you haven't heard anything from the finance company yet?

Which part are you prying?  You will need to remove those 3 bellhousing bolts that go sideways through the sump.

Done that dropped the sump but can’t get bolts off the exhaust or take the or sensor out as it’s completely messed and now it’s stopping me once again.

25 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

The pump needs to be detached from the sump or there will be other work to do.

Done that too but not sawed it I just smacked it a few more times 🤣 and it fell off.

 

What would be inside this pipe? Coolant or air? As to move the exhaust anywhere I need to get the o2 out the way 

43 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

This one does seem to be a bit of a lemon.   I take it you haven't heard anything from the finance company yet?

Nope not yet or Ford probably wait till next year for a reply from my finance company 🤣

There's coolant in that pipe.

A good pair of mole grips should get that lambda sensor out.

5 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

There's coolant in that pipe.

A good pair of mole grips should get that lambda sensor out.

That’s the one thing I don’t have 🤣🤣

Can I also use this for the sump sealant ? 

Finally with some persuasion of the exhaust I got it off 🤪 had to remove a clamp in the middle of the exhaust and that gave me a bit more room to play with lots of belt in there plus 2 teeth off the belt 😬

 

ps. I already removed all the gunk from the pump prior to the pics 

That is not good news. With teeth off the belt it will require replacement.

Although you can do a thorough job clearing up that mess, in order to replace the oil pump belt it's necessary to do a shed load more work (the same needed to replace the cambelt).

Well done for persevering and getting the sump off.

Though in technical terms, that's dead I'm afraid.

You can't drive it with teeth missing.

I'd contact the finance company again to see if they can offer any help.

Reckon that’s why it’s just come on the oil light? Or maybe it’s been like that some time? 

Also do I need to use sealant here 

1 hour ago, Fordy8888 said:

Reckon that’s why it’s just come on the oil light? Or maybe it’s been like that some time? 

I reckon the teeth came off after the turbo change.  Belts probably got a little dry & stiff while it was off the road then running it again was the final straw.  But the belt has been degrading for a while looking at the state of that oil.

There's no need to seal the 'half moon' against the gearbox bell housing.

Ahh would it still drive even if they are missing ? As I’m not too bothered about it snapping 🥶(I have AA) 😂😂 and already informed my finance company that the belt is due to snap 

thought so👍 got it all back together now 😅 

 

Please tell me I can use Loctite MR5922 for the sealant? I’ve seen some stories where they’ve put it on and realised before putting the oil in 😬🤞

12 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Ahh would it still drive even if they are missing ? As I’m not too bothered about it snapping 🥶(I have AA) 😂😂 and already informed my finance company that the belt is due to snap 

thought so👍 got it all back together now 😅 

 

It will still run with a couple of teeth missing but not for long.  Extra strain will be put on the 'next' teeth and they'll eventually come off as well.  Once enough of them come off, the sprocket will no longer be able to 'grab' the belt so the timing will slip...and that's if the belt doesn't snap first as it'll be weakened where each tooth comes off.  Either way, there's going to be carnage when it does fail.

I assume you already know the engine will mostly likely be wrecked by a snapped belt?  It'll need a lot more than just a new belt when that does happen.

 

8 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Please tell me I can use Loctite MR5922 for the sealant? I’ve seen some stories where they’ve put it on and realised before putting the oil in 😬🤞

I don't see why not.  What issues have been suggested? 

Not that it really matters in this case as it'll be on the back of an AA truck within a week. 

31 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

It will still run with a couple of teeth missing but not for long.  Extra strain will be put on the 'next' teeth and they'll eventually come off as well.  Once enough of them come off, the sprocket will no longer be able to 'grab' the belt so the timing will slip...and that's if the belt doesn't snap first as it'll be weakened where each tooth comes off.  Either way, there's going to be carnage when it does fail.

I assume you already know the engine will mostly likely be wrecked by a snapped belt?  It'll need a lot more than just a new belt when that does happen.

 

I don't see why not.  What issues have been suggested? 

Not that it really matters in this case as it'll be on the back of an AA truck within a week. 

Ahh great news 😅 and even if it does I’ll just tell the fiancé company I’m not paying a penny till it’s sorted maybe they will be a little quicker that way 🤣 and nothing really just that it doesn’t harden or something like that but either way like you said be on back of a truck soon hopefully back to where it came from 🤣 

1 hour ago, Fordy8888 said:

Ahh great news 😅 and even if it does I’ll just tell the fiancé company I’m not paying a penny till it’s sorted maybe they will be a little quicker that way 🤣 and nothing really just that it doesn’t harden or something like that but either way like you said be on back of a truck soon hopefully back to where it came from 🤣 

Ah ok.  It's not meant to harden fully.  Hard sealant cracks with expansion & contraction of heat cycles.  Soft sealant remains flexible to create a better seal for longer.  

Good luck!  

On 8/18/2023 at 12:58 PM, TomsFocus said:

Ah ok.  It's not meant to harden fully.  Hard sealant cracks with expansion & contraction of heat cycles.  Soft sealant remains flexible to create a better seal for longer.  

Good luck!  

Drove around 50 mile so far no leaks and all is good 🤞

In order to remove the sump you did not remove the exhaust pipe thoroughly, but only loosen it, yes? 

On 8/20/2023 at 4:29 PM, Tony Roman said:

In order to remove the sump you did not remove the exhaust pipe thoroughly, but only loosen it, yes? 

Yeah I just removed the bolts from the turbo, I have a aftermarket exhaust that has a clamp after the resonator so I just loosened that and had to pull the sump as for to the drivers side as I could and keep pulling the exhaust down slightly and eventually it came down but getting it back I had to get someone to pull the exhaust down as much as it could go as I didn’t want the sealant touching the baffle but it was only because I was couldn’t remove the o2 sensor or remove the bolts between the cat and the resonator 

Is it normal for the oil to smell of fuel so soon after changing it(is it meant to at all?), it’s not as bad as it was before and I can’t smell it outside the engine like I could but you can smell it on the oil cap again, could it be just due to the age and mileage? 

Sorry to bother you again @TomsFocus but does this mean I need a new vac pump? Constantly falling apart or is it something else like the solenoid?