51 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

No, the rivets stay.  There is one bolt that comes from the back right through the block heatshield.  You may have missed that one before.

Got it off with some force it was the back bolt bracket was just a bit seized up and as soon as I pulled it, it came right out but nothing seems to be leaking anything out but the smell seems to be coming from around the o2 sensor if I’m right in saying it’s called that?

@TomsFocus what would happen if the vacuum pump valve doesn't open at all? Like it can’t pass air? As the one I had on at the time I lost all power I can’t seem to blow air through it at all with any device like it’s fully sealed shut

14 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Got it off with some force it was the back bolt bracket was just a bit seized up and as soon as I pulled it, it came right out but nothing seems to be leaking anything out but the smell seems to be coming from around the o2 sensor if I’m right in saying it’s called that?

It's a good sign there's no petrol leaking.  I wonder if the O2 sensor is damaged or not sealed around the turbo so leaking exhaust gasses?  If the car was over-fuelling when running rough then the exhaust could contain petrol, though I'd expect that to evaporate quickly.

 

10 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

@TomsFocus what would happen if the vacuum pump valve doesn't open at all? Like it can’t pass air? As the one I had on at the time I lost all power I can’t seem to blow air through it at all with any device like it’s fully sealed shut

If there's no vacuum then the turbo wastegate won't move at all.  As the wastegate defaults to 'open' as standard on these (failsafe to prevent over-boost), you won't get any turbo boost at all if there's no vacuum to close the wastegate with the engine running.

As the valves are separate for the turbo and the brakes on these, I wouldn't expect any other issues from a faulty vac pump valve.

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

It's a good sign there's no petrol leaking.  I wonder if the O2 sensor is damaged or not sealed around the turbo so leaking exhaust gasses?  If the car was over-fuelling when running rough then the exhaust could contain petrol, though I'd expect that to evaporate quickly.

 

If there's no vacuum then the turbo wastegate won't move at all.  As the wastegate defaults to 'open' as standard on these (failsafe to prevent over-boost), you won't get any turbo boost at all if there's no vacuum to close the wastegate with the engine running.

As the valves are separate for the turbo and the brakes on these, I wouldn't expect any other issues from a faulty vac pump valve.

Ahh thanks for the explanation and so it may or may not be the faulty vacuum pump valve the reason the turbo failed? As it’s not due a service for another 3k miles or so, so I would have thought the oil etc is still okay? I’m just trying to think of reasons why it might of failed and i know the turbo has gone now as when the engine is idling it starts making a banging sound in the turbo but originally I thought this noise was coming from the pump itself 

41 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Ahh thanks for the explanation and so it may or may not be the faulty vacuum pump valve the reason the turbo failed? As it’s not due a service for another 3k miles or so, so I would have thought the oil etc is still okay? I’m just trying to think of reasons why it might of failed and i know the turbo has gone now as when the engine is idling it starts making a banging sound in the turbo but originally I thought this noise was coming from the pump itself 

It won't be the faulty vac pump valve that broke the turbo.  I was wrong to suggest that yesterday. (Sorry!)

Some turbo's get stuck open, others get stuck closed.  I double checked earlier and these definitely get stuck open.  So you'll be left without any boost, and absolutely no chance of over-boost or turbo damage.

Oil doesn't just suddenly breakdown when the service is due tbf.  If it gets contaminated with fuel or water it'll break down more quickly.

I haven't read the full thread so not sure if it's been covered but have your wetbelts been replaced yet?  The most common cause of reduced oil pressure in 1.0EB's is lumps of degraded wetbelt blocking the oil pump.  If that's the case, fitting a new turbo would be pointless as it'll just fail again in a matter of weeks.

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

It won't be the faulty vac pump valve that broke the turbo.  I was wrong to suggest that yesterday. (Sorry!)

Some turbo's get stuck open, others get stuck closed.  I double checked earlier and these definitely get stuck open.  So you'll be left without any boost, and absolutely no chance of over-boost or turbo damage.

oil doesn't just suddenly breakdown when the service is due tbf.  If it gets contaminated with fuel or water it'll break down more quickly.

I haven't read the full thread so not sure if it's been covered but have your wetbelts been replaced yet?  The most common cause of reduced oil pressure in 1.0EB's is lumps of degraded wetbelt blocking the oil pump.  If that's the case, fitting a new turbo would be pointless as it'll just fail again in a matter of weeks.

Nope and tbh I’m not sure if I want to spend the price of a new engine to get it changed I may go down the route of just letting it snap and replace the engine altogether and just buy a second hand turbo for now as I found someone that will change the oil and turbo for £250 so not too bad and second hand turbo for £150 and most likely contaminated with fuel and also when the turbo went my coolant level dropped where would that have gone? 

11 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Nope and tbh I’m not sure if I want to spend the price of a new engine to get it changed I may go down the route of just letting it snap and replace the engine altogether and just buy a second hand turbo for now as I found someone that will change the oil and turbo for £250 so not too bad and second hand turbo for £150 and most likely contaminated with fuel and also when the turbo went my coolant level dropped where would that have gone? 

Hmm, if there are bits of wetbelt blocking the oil pump strainer, they won't be drained out with the old oil.  If that is what caused this turbo to fail, the replacement won't last long.  I completely understand your reluctance to change the belts, but I can't recommend the turbo change without at least dropping the sump to check the oil pump strainer.  That is entirely your decision though.

The turbo is water-cooled on these (as I'm sure you know) so it is possible the coolant leaked into the turbo.  Though it's also possible that the headgasket has failed or the head has warped or the exhaust ports have cracked...there are so many hidden coolant leak points on this engine it could be difficult to pinpoint.  I assume you've checked the reservoir and the visible pipework for and signs of cracks or splits?  Did the level drop far?  Is it still dropping noticeably now?

13 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Hmm, if there are bits of wetbelt blocking the oil pump strainer, they won't be drained out with the old oil.  If that is what caused this turbo to fail, the replacement won't last long.  I completely understand your reluctance to change the belts, but I can't recommend the turbo change without at least dropping the sump to check the oil pump strainer.  That is entirely your decision though.

I’ve seen a video where a guy was testing a quick fix and he used a slide hammer and pulled the cap off the oil pump and it was full with bits of it and oil was blocked quite far up and he just pushed the cap back in place but I just don’t have a place to do it myself and can’t say I trust garages these days hence the reason I try to do everything on my own (with the help of you guys👍)🤣

 

13 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The turbo is water-cooled on these (as I'm sure you know) so it is possible the coolant leaked into the turbo.  Though it's also possible that the headgasket has failed or the head has warped or the exhaust ports have cracked...there are so many hidden coolant leak points on this engine it could be difficult to pinpoint.  I assume you've checked the reservoir and the visible pipework for and signs of cracks or splits?  Did the level drop far?  Is it still dropping noticeably now?

Yeah there’s no signs of nothing leaking anywhere in the engine bay and It was only when the turbo blew that it lowered the level but only just above minimum and it didn’t continue so I was a little confused as I would of thought it would’ve carried on leaking or whatever it was doing

 

also I’m not sure if you’ve seen how many miles the car has but it’s around 106k could this have anything to do with it failing? Tbh though I have seen people say it’s quite hard for a turbo to malfunction I’m not sure if this is true?

 

9 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

also I’m not sure if you’ve seen how many miles the car has but it’s around 106k could this have anything to do with it failing? Tbh though I have seen people say it’s quite hard for a turbo to malfunction I’m not sure if this is true?

Yeah, I did read just the first post and see that.  I don't want to keep being negative in this thread but there's no way I'd have bought a wet-belt 1.0 EcoBoost near 100k.  There are plenty of engines I would buy (and have bought!) at that mileage or more, but these are just too delicate.

You're right, turbo's very rarely fail on these, but most don't do high mileages.  We get very few on here above 100k so there's more chance of unusual parts failure on yours than most we advise on.  The turbo is heavily reliant on good oil lubrication.  The shaft has no ball bearings on a turbo this small, it literally spins on a thin layer of pressurised oil.  The moment that layer of oil becomes too thin the turbo will start to overheat, grind the brass bushings and either seize or wear away material until it becomes loose.

Difficult to diagnose through the internet but it should be easy enough for you to feel yourself.  Some up & down shaft movement is normal with no oil pressure (engine off) but if there's any in & out play, or the turbine moves enough to scrape the housing, then the turbo is failing.

10 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Yeah, I did read just the first post and see that.  I don't want to keep being negative in this thread but there's no way I'd have bought a wet-belt 1.0 EcoBoost near 100k.  There are plenty of engines I would buy (and have bought!) at that mileage or more, but these are just too delicate.

It’s absolutely fine haha I do stupid things sometimes and jump the gun and it’s what I’ve done twice now with fiestas 🤣 first one not so high mileage though and if I could go back I’d have actually looked around first and not jumped in head first 🤣

10 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Difficult to diagnose through the internet but it should be easy enough for you to feel yourself.  Some up & down shaft movement is normal with no oil pressure (engine off) but if there's any in & out play, or the turbine moves enough to scrape the housing, then the turbo is failing.

I have a video of it going up and down and smacking off the housing moving very freely but I didn't check in and out as I didn’t see that till after I had all the hoses off

also I hope this is due to the turbo being damaged? It wasn’t milky like this before I had this problem as I used to check it like every 2 days or so as I was paranoid it would loose oil as thats what my old one did, it wasn’t leaking just kept disappearing, I just hope it’s anything but the head gasket 😫🤞 

12 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

It’s absolutely fine haha I do stupid things sometimes and jump the gun and it’s what I’ve done twice now with fiestas 🤣 first one not so high mileage though and if I could go back I’d have actually looked around first and not jumped in head first 🤣

I have a video of it going up and down and smacking off the housing moving very freely but I didn't check in and out as I didn’t see that till after I had all the hoses off

also I hope this is due to the turbo being damaged? It wasn’t milky like this before I had this problem as I used to check it like every 2 days or so as I was paranoid it would loose oil as thats what my old one did, it wasn’t leaking just kept disappearing, I just hope it’s anything but the head gasket 😫🤞 

That small amount of milk/mayo on the oil cap is probably just condensation.  When you can give it a longer run and get the engine nice and hot that should clear.  You'd know if the coolant was in the oil as it'd look like chocolate milkshake on the dipstick.  

If the turbo shaft is loose enough to smack the housing then it probably is knackered.

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

That small amount of milk/mayo on the oil cap is probably just condensation.  When you can give it a longer run and get the engine nice and hot that should clear.  You'd know if the coolant was in the oil as it'd look like chocolate milkshake on the dipstick.  

If the turbo shaft is loose enough to smack the housing then it probably is knackered.

Hmm so is there no way the oil and coolant have mixed in the turbo? I was thinking head gasket has blown, also I’ve just noticed this leak around the fuel pump but it looks more like oil 🤔

Also I’ve no idea what this is but it was wet around the plug before this problem came and has lots of metal shards inside of the bit where you can see the rusty screw(bit blurred) which I took most out with a magnet but now I’ve looked more at it, it seems to be all around whatever it is and I’m not sure if it’s just come or been there as long as the plug picture

also i know I’m probably doing your head in with question after question 🤣 but if the turbo was to have gone would the car really not want to move as if it’s in limp mode, like in limp mode it will still accelerate but takes its time but it just doesn’t want to go over 25mph ish with this problem, there’s no limp mode come on or nothing so it’s whatever the problem is that’s stopping the car from reaching over 25mph ish 🤷‍♂️

Is the Air Conditioning fully working ? 🤔

10 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Hmm so is there no way the oil and coolant have mixed in the turbo? I was thinking head gasket has blown, also I’ve just noticed this leak around the fuel pump but it looks more like oil 🤔

Also I’ve no idea what this is but it was wet around the plug before this problem came and has lots of metal shards inside of the bit where you can see the rusty screw(bit blurred) which I took most out with a magnet but now I’ve looked more at it, it seems to be all around whatever it is and I’m not sure if it’s just come or been there as long as the plug picture

also i know I’m probably doing your head in with question after question 🤣 but if the turbo was to have gone would the car really not want to move as if it’s in limp mode, like in limp mode it will still accelerate but takes its time but it just doesn’t want to go over 25mph ish with this problem, there’s no limp mode come on or nothing so it’s whatever the problem is that’s stopping the car from reaching over 25mph ish 🤷‍♂️

While there is both oil and coolant running through these turbos, I think it would be almost impossible for coolant to get into the oil through the turbo.  Oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure so usually you get oil forcing it's way into coolant when there's a small hole in a heat exchanger.  Any coolant that entered the exhaust side of the turbo would be instantly vaporised due to the extreme heat.  And any that entered the intake side would be sucked into the engine in a split second.  I just can't see any reasonable way for oil & coolant to mix there.

If that is oil on the fuel pump bolt, it's probably come from the gasket that sits between the pump and the cylinder head.  Not a major issue. 

That plug is for the cam position sensor on the intake side.  I don't know what the shards would be from but shards anywhere isn't usually a good sign.  

You're not doing my head in lol.   This thread has got a bit confusing with so many different potential faults now though.  If there's no turbo boost at all, it'll just drive like a non-turbo 1.0, very slow to accelerate, but with a loose turbo shaft you may still be getting some boost.  I am baffled by the fact you're not getting an under-boost fault code though.

Limp mode works differently on different cars.  I don't think I've experienced it on a 1.0EB myself.  Being limited to 25mph may be part of limp mode on this engine.

42 minutes ago, unofix said:

Is the Air Conditioning fully working ? 🤔

Nope never has since I had it just like get a tiny bit cold thought it might need a re-gas why do you ask? 
 

 

16 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

That plug is for the cam position sensor on the intake side.  I don't know what the shards would be from but shards anywhere isn't usually a good sign.

Know of any reason why it would be wet?

21 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I am baffled by the fact you're not getting an under-boost fault code though.

this was a code that the AA pulled up but when I put it on a reader I get absolutely nothing at all

Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control 1 - ZA4 / Motronic MED 17.0.1P086A00 - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Open circuit.P132B21 - Exh.gas turbocharger boost press. sensor. Error Message : Signal faulty.Temp repaired advice memberEngine Oil Level Ok. Coolant Level Ok.

 

19 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Limp mode works differently on different cars.  I don't think I've experienced it on a 1.0EB myself.  Being limited to 25mph may be part of limp mode on this engine.

Normally you get a spanner and says service now and puts it in limp mode as on my old one I used to have a cheap air filter and it rubbed a hole from the old air box mounts and it kept coming up with it till I changed the air filter but not even the engine light is on 🤣

also this is the dipstick it used to be where the red line is and had been since I got the car but now it seems it has dropped ever so slightly 

16 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Know of any reason why it would be wet?

this was a code that the AA pulled up but when I put it on a reader I get absolutely nothing at all

Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control 1 - ZA4 / Motronic MED 17.0.1P086A00 - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Open circuit.P132B21 - Exh.gas turbocharger boost press. sensor. Error Message : Signal faulty.Temp repaired advice memberEngine Oil Level Ok. Coolant Level Ok.

 

Normally you get a spanner and says service now and puts it in limp mode as on my old one I used to have a cheap air filter and it rubbed a hole from the old air box mounts and it kept coming up with it till I changed the air filter but not even the engine light is on 🤣

also this is the dipstick it used to be where the red line is and had been since I got the car but now it seems it has dropped ever so slightly 

 

A bit of oil leaking around the cam sensors is fairly common on this engine.  There's a rubber O-ring around the sensor that has probably failed.  You can unbolt the sensor and pull it out to have a look if you like.  I'd clean up around it first though, don't want to knock any of that muck in through the open hole lol.

Ah, P132B is a boost fault, could cover a few different things but underboost is definitely one of them.  Have you been using Forscan or just a generic OBD reader?

That oil level is fine.  It will burn a small amount over time.  That's not a great colour though...looks more like sooty diesel oil.  

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Ah, P132B is a boost fault, could cover a few different things but underboost is definitely one of them.  Have you been using Forscan or just a generic OBD reader?

Just a standard cheap eBay one 😄

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

A bit of oil leaking around the cam sensors is fairly common on this engine.  There's a rubber O-ring around the sensor that has probably failed.  You can unbolt the sensor and pull it out to have a look if you like.  I'd clean up around it first though, don't want to knock any of that muck in through the open hole lol.

It’s like every seal on the car has gone all at once 🤣 don’t even think the bin will want it 🤣 and if the oil is not looking like chocolate milkshake on that stick does it mean there’s no coolant in there? 

7 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Just a standard cheap eBay one 😄

It’s like every seal on the car has gone all at once 🤣 don’t even think the bin will want it 🤣 and if the oil is not looking like chocolate milkshake on that stick does it mean there’s no coolant in there? 

As the owner of a 100k 1.0 EcoBoost I think Forscan would be a worthwhile investment.

Yeah, there's no coolant in that oil.

30 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

As the owner of a 100k 1.0 EcoBoost I think Forscan would be a worthwhile investment.

Yeah, there's no coolant in that oil.

Hahaha maybe I’ll have to look into it then and no problem thanks again will let you know if anything else pops up 🤣probably next time I look at it 😅

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Being limited to 25mph may be part of limp mode on this engine.

Yes. Limp mode on 1.0. Had this on my daughter's car during the early days of turbo trouble. Makes it almost undriveable - dangerous in my opinion.

2 hours ago, RayC333 said:

Yes. Limp mode on 1.0. Had this on my daughter's car during the early days of turbo trouble. Makes it almost undriveable - dangerous in my opinion.

I’m sure when my old one went into limp mode though it would come on with the service light and engine management light and would say on the screen service now 

@TomsFocusIf I disconnect the cam sensor will the car crank but not start ? Or will it cause damage as I need to crank the car over to build oil pressure

15 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

@TomsFocusIf I disconnect the cam sensor will the car crank but not start ? Or will it cause damage as I need to crank the car over to build oil pressure

The engine will probably run with one cam sensor disconnected, though not at peak efficiency as it's needed for the VCT system.

Why do you want to leave it disconnected?  If checking the sensor you can refit it again afterwards.

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

The engine will probably run with one cam sensor disconnected, though not at peak efficiency as it's needed for the VCT system.

Why do you want to leave it disconnected?  If checking the sensor you can refit it again afterwards.

I just changed the turbo and I want to know if the oil feed is working correctly but don’t want to switch the engine on just want to crank it over