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Ford Focus MK2.5 Zetec 1.6 petrol 2008y


arturs706
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Hi! One day i tried to find fuel filter for my Focus Zetec mk2.5 1.6 petrol, milleage done 114.000 miles,  but i didn't find, it is not under bonnet or under the car? I would like to do, cause i think that my car lose power? i changed spark plugs, leads, motor oil filter, check my compression and my cylinder compression - 1№ 12 ,2№ 12.5, 3№ 12.5, 4№ 12.5, and my engine eat oil, i am adding oil about 100 ml per month, why? is engine in good condition? is compression all right for my focus? Thanks

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Hi

 

I have the same engine and love the car. These version does not have a replacable fuel filter as its part of the fuel pump itself.

 

At that mileage if you have done the standard service stuff i would look at changing the coil pack and make sure you are using the correct oil.

 

If car is using oil then could be a simple leak or maybe the valve seals maybe due to not the correct oil being used or too much oil being put it which can pressure seals and damage them. The correct level is just half way between min and max on dipstick athough I just fill it a little over half just as a personal preference.

 

Hope this helps

 

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Thanks a lot for information about fuel filter!! \\\\\i am using Castrol Magnatec A5 5w30 fully synthetic! How about compression? Is 12-12.5 bar all right? 

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I'm not sure what measurement your working in with those values but its been a long time since I have done a compression test.

As far as I can remember you may need to disconnect the coil and remove the spark plugs and also pull out the fuel pump fuse, this will stop fuel going into cylinders and making mess when your testing. If you do 2 test one dry and one wet you will check 8 readings 4 on each test. 

The dry test start from cylinder 1 and connect your compression gauge and turn the engine over about 5 goes and take the reading, Do this for the other three cylinders working in order (example 2,3,4) .

Then do the wet test which is the same only squirt a few drop of engline oil (not too much) into cylinder  one and connect the compression guage again and  turn over engine. On the 5th crank stop and take the reading. Do this in turn for the other 3 cylinders.

 

when you have this done you should have 2 tests a dry and a wet with 4 readings each,

(** Table below is only an example using the values you give)

Test  Cy1  Cy2  Cy3  Cy4

Dry  12.0    12.5   12.5  12.5

Wet 12.9 12.9   12.8  12.9

Now what you need to look for is consistency along the cylinders on each test. The wet test will rise the values a little as the oil will seal any piston ring to up the reading on the test. As a rule of thumb some say you can have 15% -30% difference between your highest and lowest reading, so basically if you are saying you are getting 12.5  15% of this is 1.875. so if we minus that from your highest 12.5 -1.875 we get 10.625. Now compare that with your lowest reading with is 12.0 and its higher than 10.625 (the 15% margin). so In this example I would say that the engine compression is ok,

 

No I only am going from an old method I used to use on my escort and fiesta days from the 1990's but it always seemed to work out fine. although others here in the forum may be fit to give more detailed advice on compression tests and what the actual margin is although 15% I would say should still be ok to work with.

Also your spark plugs should give a good indication of the condition of your engine if you look at the ends of them, pay attention the the colour and condition of each plug.

Low power could be caused by a few things on your car so your should check all of them when you get the compression checked. Fuel pump pressure, air intake , Vacuum leaks and coil pack are main area to look at as well. Also the car may be in LIMP mode which should show a EML light on the dash as well, so In this case a good code reader or forscan should be useful to see whats happening.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

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17 hours ago, arturs706 said:

cylinder compression - 1№ 12 ,2№ 12.5, 3№ 12.5, 4№ 12.5, and my engine eat oil

Those compression figures look ok, so if no visible oil leaks anywhere, then valve stem seals must be the next likely culprit.

 

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