south_bound

Ignition barrel problems

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Problem with my ignition barrel - basically the key will not turn to start the engine, feels like a mechanical blockage like the locking mechanism is worn or damaged.  Same thing with both keys, which work in the doors so I am pretty sure it is the barrel not the key which is the problem.  I sprayed some oil onto the key and also into the key hole and it has helped but doesn't fill me with confidence and don't really want to be in a position of not being able to start the car.

 

I take it this is a main dealer job as they need to code a replacement barrel to the key?  The local main dealer wants £140 to diagnose the problem (!), but I have got them to price the replacement part at £180 and the labour at £240 - sounds a bit steep?  And there is a 10 day wait on the parts. Given the car is 10 years old and I want to spend the minimum possible on it, is there another way around this - even to the point of removing all the gubbins and not even needing the key if necessary?  I'm thinking about how car theives would just join 2 wires together to get it started, though I would install a hidden switch to make it more secure.  Or are these modern (ish in my case) just too full of electronics nowadays? 

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No one?

 

The oil squirted into the lock seems to be working for now, but fully expecting a call from my wife at any moment, stuck in the supermarket car park with the key not wanting to turn! 

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when the problem was occurring was it turning far enough to disengage the steering lock?

replacement barrels (assuming the barrel is the problem and not the steering lock mecahinsm) are not that expensive. one example (I have not checked other prices):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IGNITION-SWITCH-LOCK-BARREL-WITH-2-KEYS-FORD-TRANSIT-FOCUS-CONNECT-1998-2013-/131243003523?fits=Model%3AFocus&hash=item1e8eb14e83:g:Ay4AAOSw4GVYRcHa

Obviously the new keys would not be coded to your immobiliser. I do not know how close the key needs to be to unimmobilise the vehicle. maybe putting the old key in a holder right next to the lock would work?   Not ideal but it's the sort of thing I might try if I had an old car and wanted to fix it with the least amount of work/expense.

the last thing you want is that call from your wife who will hold it against you for years if the frozen food defrosts before she gets home, and she misses Pointless or Countdown etc.

 

 

 

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Thanks for the reply isetta.  When it sticks, the key does not turn at all so the steering lock is still engaged - even if the front wheels are straight and there is no pressure on the steering lock.  I need to push the key in a bit to get it to turn, and that is just since I squirted the oil in.  I'll have a look at getting a cheap replacement mechanism and try to fool the immobiliser by waving the original key in front of it...we'll see if that works.

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An auto locksmith may be able to code a new barrel to your existing key, alternatively you can swap the blade from any new key/s to your old keys and vice versa - so your immobiliser chip does not need to be changed or reprogrammed.

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Looks like I will buy a second hand mechanism with key and swap it out.  Then I will swap the immobiliser chip to the new key and accept that I will have the old key for the doors and the new key for the ignition.  Maybe I would look at getting new door locks as well if they come up cheap on ebay.

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Hi guys can anyone give me advice on how to remove a ignition barrel on my focus 2008 tdci. 

The key will go into the lock,but just wont turn. I have tried wd40 etc,and it just wont turn, the barrel must be buggered. 

Is there a way to remove it,without turning the key. I have YouTubed it,and there is a small hole under it on the casing,when you push in a thin screwdriver ,to release the barrel. But they show the key turning 1 notch,but mine won't turn at all. There must be a way to do it,I'd be much appreciated if someone could give me advice. 

Many thanks Al

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2 hours ago, Alister said:

they show the key turning 1 notch,but mine won't turn at all. There must be a way to do it

I suspect not, for security reasons the design will be such that major damage is likely to be able to remove the barrel with no key. Otherwise any thief could very quickly defeat the steering lock.

When my bonnet lock barrel seized, I had a panic attack at first! But after counselling and consideration, I tried squirting loads of WD40 into it, and it did eventually work. It can now be removed with a simple screwdriver if needed, but a bonnet lock is a very minor security defense. Even towing a car is hard if the steering lock is engaged, unless the crim has a lift truck. So it is a valid delay tactic.

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From memory I think you might need to drill it out.  I never got around to it (see higher up this thread) as the oil skirted into the lock seems to have held up and not had too many problems since.

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Hi thanks for that, wd40 isn't any good at all. I have foned ford and they are not much good tbh.

They said a new barrel is £40 and if I need the casing it's £70. A new barrel has to be made up by them, I'm assuming they need,match the original key code onto it.

Man it's such a pain,for such a small thing. But I guess it's for security reasons, to have the key turned 1 notch, otherwise anyone could pull it out.

If I were sure drilling through the lock would work, I'd certainly give it a try,I suppose I have nothing to lose,as the barrel is knackered anyway. 

There is a small 2mm hole under the barrel, I'm guessing pushing a tiny screwdriver in it,will free it. And will it also come out that way,after it's drilled out?

What do you think?

Cheers al 

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On 1/27/2020 at 1:07 PM, Alister said:

Hi thanks for that, wd40 isn't any good at all. I have foned ford and they are not much good tbh.

They said a new barrel is £40 and if I need the casing it's £70. A new barrel has to be made up by them, I'm assuming they need,match the original key code onto it.

Man it's such a pain,for such a small thing. But I guess it's for security reasons, to have the key turned 1 notch, otherwise anyone could pull it out.

If I were sure drilling through the lock would work, I'd certainly give it a try,I suppose I have nothing to lose,as the barrel is knackered anyway. 

There is a small 2mm hole under the barrel, I'm guessing pushing a tiny screwdriver in it,will free it. And will it also come out that way,after it's drilled out?

What do you think?

Cheers al 

Well to all those who have had the same problem as me,and can't remove the barrel. Just measure 6mm down from the key hole. Use a 3mm drill as a pilot hole. Use tape and Mark the bit against the key length, so you don't damage the electrical conection below the barrel. There is a 1mm hole underneath it, so try and keep in line when drilling. This is used for pushing up the holding catch.

Once you have drilled through the barrel we the 3mm,go up to 7mm and do the same with it,and the barrel should pull out with plyers,try not to go too deep or you will damage the outer casing.

On 1/27/2020 at 8:42 AM, south_bound said:

From memory I think you might need to drill it out.  I never got around to it (see higher up this thread) as the oil skirted into the lock seems to have held up and not had too many problems since.

On 11/6/2016 at 5:50 PM, JW1982 said:

The wheel hubs of the Focus MK2 (and onwards) are non serviceable. The wheel bearings can not be replaced as a seperate part. In case of bearing damage the complete wheel hub needs to be replaced. This type of front wheel hub/bearing is generally known as a GEN 2 wheel bearing.

GEN 2 wheel bearings require special tools to remove and install the bearing into the wheel knuckle. Without the correct tools it is almost impossible to install the new bearing/hub without damaging the bearing.     

 

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5 hours ago, Alister said:

Just measure 6mm down from the key hole. Use a 3mm drill as a pilot hole.

This Youtube seems very similar:

I found it yesterday. It says 2002 Focus, which should be a Mk1, but the UK Mk1 has the round style keys. This American (I guess) car has a lock looking very similar to the Mk2.

So it is useful to know that this is possible. A failed lock is quite common and can be stupidly expensive. A good locksmith might be the simplest answer, but good ones are rare beasts, and a not so good one could end up being expensive!

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Did you sort this? Mine not turning with key to position 3 to crank over. neighbour took barrel out and put large screwdriver down and that didnt go to position 3, so the metal bit broke jamming it or switch at back. Found this on Youtube shows the metal bit. https://youtu.be/uFs_DxZNioE

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On 1/26/2020 at 11:08 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

I suspect not, for security reasons the design will be such that major damage is likely to be able to remove the barrel with no key. Otherwise any thief could very quickly defeat the steering lock.

When my bonnet lock barrel seized, I had a panic attack at first! But after counselling and consideration, I tried squirting loads of WD40 into it, and it did eventually work. It can now be removed with a simple screwdriver if needed, but a bonnet lock is a very minor security defense. Even towing a car is hard if the steering lock is engaged, unless the crim has a lift truck. So it is a valid delay tactic.

Mine does this if I let the steering lock engage.  A bit of wiggling the key and steering wheel together frees things though luckily. 
 

I just don’t use the steering lock and the ignition works perfectly then. 

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On 6/20/2020 at 6:24 AM, Kimbobimbo said:

Did you sort this? Mine not turning with key to position 3 to crank over. neighbour took barrel out and put large screwdriver down and that didnt go to position 3, so the metal bit broke jamming it or switch at back. Found this on Youtube shows the metal bit. https://youtu.be/uFs_DxZNioE

I didn't end up doing anything more than squirting some lubricant in through the key hole and it has kept going since.  Sounds like you have something more serious going on.

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Ford do an ignition barrel repair kit for Mk3 Mondeos, maybe there's also one for your model

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Update. Neighbour removed Ignition switch. And key worked all way. So new ignition switch fitted and works perfectly again. 

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Wife's fiesta mk6 (58 plate) has same problem. Key goes in barrel ok and turns to position 2 but wont go to 3 to start.Got barrel out by pushing two small alann keys in both separate holes in the barrel casing. Wiggling the key in position 1 released it.

I think the barrel is ok and it's the mechanism that us at fault as I could simulate the barrel turning with a large screwdriver with no luck. I note that the mechanism is held in by shear bolts. In dear, one for another day. The Fiesta lays dead on the drive. Luckily not in a random car park.

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