I don't think mine will be much different but we'll see.

Thanks

11 minutes ago, wild_one said:

I don't think mine will be much different but we'll see.

Thanks

Keep us posted mate.  Incidentally the lower mount was not too complex to change once the car was on ramps.  The only "issue" was there's a cast iron bracket attached to the exhaust that needs to be removed and you have to pry it a little to get it over the fixings (if you come to do the job you'll see what I mean).

4 minutes ago, 1979Damian said:

Keep us posted mate.  Incidentally the lower mount was not too complex to change once the car was on ramps.  The only "issue" was there's a cast iron bracket attached to the exhaust that needs to be removed and you have to pry it a little to get it over the fixings (if you come to do the job you'll see what I mean).

Can you check the lower mount without removing it?

3 hours ago, wild_one said:

Can you check the lower mount without removing it?

Unfortunately not, you can't see the rubber part until it's removed.   Having seen the state of mine I can't imagine that yours will be in much better condition, I'd suggest aiming to change it regardless once the weather warms up a bit.

On 1/3/2019 at 7:31 PM, 1979Damian said:

Unfortunately not, you can't see the rubber part until it's removed.   Having seen the state of mine I can't imagine that yours will be in much better condition, I'd suggest aiming to change it regardless once the weather warms up a bit.

So, the 'front' engine mount is now changed. Not too bad a job, apart from being freezing cold. Of the various youtube video's I'd watched (mostly US) do not show the various pipework that runs above the mount between the coolant tank and the engine. Which needs to be 'adjusted/loosened' to allow access to the engine mount bolts with a socket. And the four bolts holding it in are 'tight', so 6 point sockets 15/18mm. But, after a road test there is still a vibration/noise so looks like I'm going to be change the gearbox one. 

I noticed that in your picture of the worn part, the original Ford item is a pressed steel looking item, whereas the replacement part sold by ECP/GSF is a slightly different looking design. Was your replacement identical to the original?

42 minutes ago, wild_one said:

So, the 'front' engine mount is now changed. Not too bad a job, apart from being freezing cold. Of the various youtube video's I'd watched (mostly US) do not show the various pipework that runs above the mount between the coolant tank and the engine. Which needs to be 'adjusted/loosened' to allow access to the engine mount bolts with a socket. And the four bolts holding it in are 'tight', so 6 point sockets 15/18mm. But, after a road test there is still a vibration/noise so looks like I'm going to be change the gearbox one. 

I noticed that in your picture of the worn part, the original Ford item is a pressed steel looking item, whereas the replacement part sold by ECP/GSF is a slightly different looking design. Was your replacement identical to the original?

ECP didn't have Lemforder part in at the time, only some rather more crappy brands so I went elsewhere.  The Lemforder part was a but more "angular" in it's shape but it fitted nicely.

26 minutes ago, 1979Damian said:

ECP didn't have Lemforder part in at the time, only some rather more crappy brands so I went elsewhere.  The Lemforder part was a but more "angular" in it's shape but it fitted nicely.

This style?

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Focus_1.8_2006/p/car-parts/transmission-parts/car-transmission/gearbox-linkage/?338590029&1&8024c98aaa16454dfa7f0f5a988b7a52dd3e474f&000482

6 minutes ago, wild_one said:

This style?

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Focus_1.8_2006/p/car-parts/transmission-parts/car-transmission/gearbox-linkage/?338590029&1&8024c98aaa16454dfa7f0f5a988b7a52dd3e474f&000482

That's what the Lemforder one looked like, the original part was more rounded in shape.

Just now, 1979Damian said:

That's what the Lemforder one looked like, the original part was more rounded in shape.

So, the part you fitted to replace the worn item was similar in design to the one in my link?

22 minutes ago, wild_one said:

So, the part you fitted to replace the worn item was similar in design to the one in my link?

Yup

1 minute ago, 1979Damian said:

Yup

Stay tuned, because coming up soon will be a rear wheel bearing, fuel tank sender and the classic bonnet lock replacement!

Just now, wild_one said:

Stay tuned, because coming up soon will be a rear wheel bearing, fuel tank sender and the classic bonnet lock replacement!

I consider myself not too bad with the old tools but I couldn't possibly have got my original passenger side rear bearing (hub) off the car last year.  The bolts were so badly ceased they heads had to be cut off and access from the rear (to be bolts) is also a little awkward.

1 minute ago, 1979Damian said:

I consider myself not too bad with the old tools but I couldn't possibly have got my original passenger side rear bearing (hub) off the car last year.  The bolts were so badly ceased they heads had to be cut off and access from the rear (to be bolts) is also a little awkward.

I know, it's a beast of a job. Shame because on the Mondeo rear wheel bearings which are very similar, the bolts go in from the outside so access is so much better.

6 minutes ago, wild_one said:

I know, it's a beast of a job. Shame because on the Mondeo rear wheel bearings which are very similar, the bolts go in from the outside so access is so much better.

I watched a really good video on youtube by Autodoc and thought oh that shouldn't be too hard. Bought an SKF brand hub unit, took one look underneath and thought f*&k that! 

Just now, 1979Damian said:

I watched a really good video on youtube by Autodoc and thought oh that shouldn't be too hard. both an SKF brand hub unit, took one look underneath and thought f*&k that! 

I was wondering if the bolts don't cooperate whether to attack the bearing retaining bolts with a grinder where they appear on the 'outside'

Just now, wild_one said:

I was wondering if the bolts don't cooperate whether to attack the bearing retaining bolts with a grinder where they appear on the 'outside'

From what I understand the garage plasma cut the "heads" off the bots because they just stripped and wouldn't budge, even after a bit of heat.

heat and spiral/fluted extractors, never been let down on a focus yet lol.

30 minutes ago, stef123 said:

heat and spiral/fluted extractors, never been let down on a focus yet lol.

There's always dynamite to blast them out!

42 minutes ago, wild_one said:

There's always dynamite to blast them out!

Tried it before, but my bodywork skills are not so great.

17 minutes ago, stef123 said:

Tried it before, but my bodywork skills are not so great.

Who needs bodywork, just carry an umbrella?

10 minutes ago, wild_one said:

Who needs bodywork, just carry an umbrella?

I might make MOT time a bit tricky though 

8 hours ago, 1979Damian said:

I might make MOT time a bit tricky though 

You’ll be amazed at the difference £20 in the cup holder makes  

18 hours ago, stef123 said:

You’ll be amazed at the difference £20 in the cup holder makes  

Just tell them it's a kit car?

Anyway, I've now replaced the lower (rear) gearbox mount and I've still got a vibration so on to the last mount under the battery.

Going to have to wait a while though so stay tuned?

Oh, and I had a thought as to whether the noise is being caused by a loose plastic engine cover! Interesting?

Resurrecting this old thread again. What were your solutions? @TomsFocus @wild_one