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2006 Ford Focus MK2 Ghia 2.0L - P0320 Error

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Hey guys,

First time driving my Focus after the snow in London this morning and it started throwing up, stuttering, lost all power and idles horribly (RPM jumping all over the place). Went into 'speed limit mode' (think it also said 'engine system failure') so obviously pulled over and stopped. This was literally just after leaving my car park and barely going over 20mph

Had to wait until 20 minutes ago for a Green Flag guy to come out but the only code coming out is P0320, and it's still stuttering on idle. Managed to limp it home (I was just round the corner) but obviously don't want to drive it now until I can get to the bottom of things.

Is this going to be painful?



  • Author

Quick update. Had someone come out and d a proper diagnostic and go this

U2196- 20 / Invalid Engine rpm data

Any suggestions? I read another thread on here suggesting a dodgy cable or a faulty alternator, but that thread was for a diesel and mine is petrol.

The bloke that came out also said the battery is knackered but could that also be the alternator?

Quote

P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction

I would guess the crankshaft position sensor is faulty.

  • Author
34 minutes ago, Ferrit said:

I would guess the crankshaft position sensor is faulty.

That would make sense as the Green Flag guy said he was getting no reading from the sensor when he was trying to fix it roadside the other night (I didn't know it was that sensor at the time but looking at pictures of my engine it looks to be the same place he was testing)...I'll take a look, hopefully it's just the sensor and not the wiring harness!

  • Author
2 hours ago, Ferrit said:

I would guess the crankshaft position sensor is faulty.

This isn't my engine bay, but pretty sure it's the same engine, and the circled area is where the Green Flag guy was testing. Is this the sensor you mentioned or is this something else? One of those 'find your part number' sites would seem to suggest the sensor you mentioned is down by the offside front wheel (unless I'm reading the image wrong!)

2009FordFocusSES.jpg

  • Author

I'm guessing this is going to have to go to Ford, although I've no way of getting to them as the car won't drive. Got a new battery today and it made no difference (it was something to try when Googling the error code).

Anyone have any suggestions as to what to try? The bloke my Wife had out says it's the engine speed sensor but I can't find anywhere to suggest where this is so I can try and replace it myself, but I don't know if he's right as the error code seems to point to the crankshaft position sensor.

I think he's getting confused with the E196 code (Invalid RPM data) the dials are putting out.

Anyone?

Crank position sensor measures engine speed so it's the same thing.  

Edit again - Seems it moved over the years on the 2.0 Zetec.  I think yours will be down by the crank pulley, if you're able to jack up and remove the drivers side wheel, it should be easy to see.

  • Author
On 10/03/2018 at 3:52 PM, TomsFocus said:

Crank position sensor measures engine speed so it's the same thing.  

Edit again - Seems it moved over the years on the 2.0 Zetec.  I think yours will be down by the crank pulley, if you're able to jack up and remove the drivers side wheel, it should be easy to see.

Thanks. Problem is I've no way of getting to it as I don't have axle stands or a decent jack so I'm gonna have to get someone to come to me. This is going to get expensive...and I've gotta work out if it's worth doing as I'm already £160 down and the car's only worth £2k :sad:

You can do it on a scissor jack if you're careful.  Only need to jack up one wheel and won't be going underneath at all, no different to changing a flat tyre.

It's literally right at the bottom of the engine, facing you with the wheel off.

  • Author
41 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

You can do it on a scissor jack if you're careful.  Only need to jack up one wheel and won't be going underneath at all, no different to changing a flat tyre.

It's literally right at the bottom of the engine, facing you with the wheel off.

Thanks. TBH I've seen axle stands are only £20 so might get them, an OBD2 reader and the sensor and give it a go. Although I'm struggling to find the right part number...

I'm usually pretty good at finding part numbers...but not in this case lol! :unsure:  Think you'll have to give Ford a call, or Fordpartsuk, to make sure you get the right one.

  • Author
43 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I'm usually pretty good at finding part numbers...but not in this case lol! :unsure:  Think you'll have to give Ford a call, or Fordpartsuk, to make sure you get the right one.

Going back to location, is it this bad boy (with fitting tool on the image)?

More here too - https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/focus_2004.75_07.2004/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/303_engine/303-14a_electronic_engine_controls/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/removal_and_installation/crankshaft_position_(ckp)_sensor_1.8l_duratec-he_(mi4)-2.0l_duratec-he_(mi4)/

DSC05591.JPG

That's definitely the right location yeah, and looks to be the same part as the pic.  But I'd still check before ordering personally.

  • Author
19 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

That's definitely the right location yeah, and looks to be the same part as the pic.  But I'd still check before ordering personally.

I've had Ford confirm that sensor is correct. You reckon it's worth looking at the camshaft sensor too seeing as that error code can suggest that side is wrong as well? The same Ford dealer sells that as well on eBay...

Personally, I'd just go for the crank sensor.  Unless you want to buy both to save waiting for deliveries.  If you do that, I'd suggest trying the crank first and returning the cam sensor if it the crank fixes it.

 

  • Author
25 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Personally, I'd just go for the crank sensor.  Unless you want to buy both to save waiting for deliveries.  If you do that, I'd suggest trying the crank first and returning the cam sensor if it the crank fixes it.

 

Right, think I'm at the point of trying to sort this out! Will be back if it doesn't pan out! Thanks a lot for the help to date, Tom

No problem, good luck!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author
On 13/03/2018 at 1:18 PM, TomsFocus said:

No problem, good luck!

Sorry for being quiet, only just got paid some got a multimeter and code scanner before buying any parts...

Which pin on the sensor/harness is live and which is earth? I don't wanna go damaging things by connecting to the wrong pins!

Side-note: The P0320 code was there, so I cleared it and fired the car up with the new battery and it seems to idle OK, and for longer than before so is it worth giving it a blast as it is before I do anything else?

You can't damage anything by connecting the wrong pins here.  Just make sure you're on voltage when testing the loom.  And resistance when testing the sensor.  Resistance test sends a small voltage through the wires which is why this shouldn't be used on a connected loom.

I doubt it's fixed itself but you're welcome to try it lol! :biggrin: 

  • Author
34 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

You can't damage anything by connecting the wrong pins here.  Just make sure you're on voltage when testing the loom.  And resistance when testing the sensor.  Resistance test sends a small voltage through the wires which is why this shouldn't be used on a connected loom.

I doubt it's fixed itself but you're welcome to try it lol! :biggrin: 

Yeah I spoke too soon! It conked out again after 10 minutes of driving so will be jacking it up and testing connections before buying anything. Gonna check the cam sensor as well as it's easy to get to and may as well to be on the safe side!

  • Author

Just a quick update. Car went to a garage today and they replaced the crankshaft sensor and the fault appears to now be resolved! Been driving it all day and, touch wood, all is well.

New problem, though, is either the fuse or dipped beam bulb has blown so need to address that (was fine until I replaced the offside headlight due to a crack in the original housing).

Thanks all who offered suggestions

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