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You can find below the steps needed to replace the mirror indicator bulbs/ remove the housing on a mk7 Fiesta. The process is pretty simple, takes about 10 mins and only needs one person and a screwdriver. I was removing the cover to replace the bulbs with chrome ones but the same process applies for pretty much any work you want to do on the mirrors. The reason I have written this guide is that whilst the process is simple it does require you to apply a fair bit of pressure to plastic parts which is always a worry if you don't know exactly what you're doing. From my experience the job doesn't endanger your mirror glass as you pretty much leave that alone and you're most at risk of snapping one of the plastic clips on the housing. On the up side though they all seem surprisingly sturdy so as long as you're careful you will be fine. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Edited version sorry for above version Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

Really, I thought you were a merc driver now, I thought you would jump in the car and annoy all other motorists on your half mile drive to the shops for the bacon :-D Or have you not become quite that bad yet :-P

The ability to change steering mode is dependent on the engine. It's for the 1.8 petrol and up and I believe all diesels have the option. The system has a hydraulic steering pump augmented by an electric motor. The amount of extra assistance you get from the electric motor depends on the mode (and speed - faster you go, the less help it gives you). Comfort = maximum assistance for lightest steering Normal = electric steering at 50% Sport = no electric assistance - gives most feedback through the wheel. The electric steering can feel a little numb. Personally, I run it in Sport. The steering isn't that heavy (and I'm a fairly big bloke who can cope lol). I like the feel of knowing I'm connected to the front wheels. Used to have a Mk2 Punto with electric steering and wasn't overly keen on it.

More update! Just had 4 wheel alignment done. I was surprise to see the how much alignment was out. O/side rear was towing out 5mm Nearside rear towing in O/side front out Nearside out or something like this .in other words in was out of align. But it never felt any misbehaviour on road. I was quite surprised. Yunii

A lot of the problem is corrosion in the base of the aerial, it can be got at via removing the interior light a clean up normally restores satellite reception

Lenny - You any idea of the fitments (I.E. H7 ETC) for each bulb

I've got one of those too, had it years. Much more practical than a complete wheel lock

Entirely possible with ford specifications the variance is mind boggling

Drivers side carpet next to the door is a flap of carpet that lifts up the vin is also stamped onto the floor No model on the v5 is weird how can you tax the car without the model specifics I've never had a v5 in all my years that doesn't state Make Model Engine size Build date The vin on the window should match the vin under the carpet and the vin on the v5 It could be as simple as the plate on the door was lost with the info and they've stuck any one on though I doubt it to be honest

No heated screen no armrest no sports suspension what's the point it actually sits at the 3rd from bottom trim I must admit ford really do some weird badge ideas my mates got a sport and wasn't very pleased when he found out I had more power in his words "but you can't have mines a sport" my s badges are just stuck on cos they look nice

Load of rubbish its a 2 port hydraulic pump with a 124mm pulley or number 4M513A69AD same as the 1.6 the cabriolet etc hers all the info you need mechanic doesn't have a clue clearly http://www.kimbercarparts.co.uk/Steering-Suspension/Steering-Boxes-Pumps/Ford/Focus/%7bAll%7d/1.6/2006/Parts.aspx

If memory serves, there's only 3 bolts holding it on, (at least on the facelift 1.8) I used a sliding tee-bar for one of the bolts - it was smaller than the socket wrench I had been using, allowing access without disassembling/damaging the brake lines. Got any photos to illustrate the problem?

I can end this one the sport s wasn't introduced as an official model till 2010 by ford http://www.ford.co.uk/FordFleet/NewsAndReviews/FordForBusiness/2010/September/FocusSport There is a sport sport s and zetec zetec s http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/used-reviews/ford/focus/hatchback-2005/equipment/ Sport s only came in 1.8 petrol or diesel from 2006 onwards as a limited edition between Oct 2006 and march 2007 http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/used-reviews/ford/focus/hatchback-2005/facts-figures/ Its just a zetec really there's no spec difference except a badge and maybe slloys

I'm 8 months off a renewal, so I hope by then it's an option on most Insurers, For 10% Discount I'm sure they'll start asking for proof of one being used, not just a picture of one in a window taken from Google lol. In less than 5 weeks, I've got 260GB of 1080p footage, most is from works van though. Think I'll have to keep a 4-5 week limit on footage lol, I'll make sure I've got plenty around renewal time though.

Comparison sites get a commission for introducing you that's why with sites you get cash back of £30 or so you get the commission instead. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC mobile app

Hate ford for this sport I've seen many sports with a lower powered engine not nice alloys and that's about it I've the zetec ti vct I've got the aluminium handbrake cover and button the aluminum two tone gearknob only thing I don't have is the sill plates I've seen a sport and had a look at it honestly its just a marketing ploy on fords part how a lower powered engine can have a sport s badge baffles me as I've got the sport clocks higher rpm red pointers aluminum clock inserts etc etc

Never mind insurance you're car sounds seriously dodgy the info on ford etis isn't wrong the car when built was entered onto the database vin number engine number and registration so the problems you're car not ford etis if its registered there should be no issues with the registration number they are all linked..... the zetec and lx are different specs The engine may have been replaced so don't use the engine number use the vin in the front window even then it doesn't explain why it says lx

Thanks Phil, I went to Fords yesterday as the car was in for a service and nobody knew how to do it. As I said the handbook explains nothing so today I spent an hour messing about and found out how to display time of arrival. You have to disable "arrow displayed on map" once that is done it displays time of arrival where the direction arrow was. Bizarre. THanks anyway. Neville

My 15 plate Focus ST 3 is running a week late a.t.m.

My Focus was 1-2 weeks late, I forget how long now. They knew it was on its way, but was just a case of waiting for it to turn up. You just have to be patient, which I know from experience is difficult, when it could be any day :D

I work for a company in the Motor sector and coming up to plate change all dealerships are stuggling to get cars in on time. What have you ordered? I know Kuga's are taking a lot longer than normal

Yeah it's always like this. I guess your just cutting out confused.com's or any other comparisons sites slice of the pie. I always go to comparison, find cheapest then go direct. Then try non comparison sites

Cheers for that mate,great help,all being well will have a go at it tomorrow as only had my dash cam in a week and left it on all night the other day.

Looks fantastic mate!! So neat!

Lenny you inspired me with your choice of colours for the calipers and drums so I had to do the same. I think it turned out great. Thanks a lot. See some pictures here! http://goo.gl/9zw8Pe Just click next image at the top to see more you can see how rusty the drums were before I derusted them and painted it. B)

I think MCM also have an episode on how to flare your arches with a roller DIY style. It didn't look too complicated. As for going down low to the ground with speedbumps, I got no solution to that conumdrum. Btw, do consider just lowered springs if you don't want to go too low. Coilovers, the cheaper types, tend to be crashy from what I read. No personal experience there. That episode of MCM is one of my favourites and the way they had the tire/steel rim combo is visually really cool.

Cheers mate , I thought the name sounded familiar! After some reading about it seems you can flare arches with a roller? So I can either get one for £45 or get all 4 arches flared for £170.. hmmm It's going to be awkward as I can't go too low due to speed bumps :( but I want to slam it to the ground

Doing the washing up. Running out of bacon and the wife is at work so I have to go and get it myself.

The fork is not part of the mechanism on the top of box, it only operates the fork, too change fork then its box out and strip

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It's difficult (well, impossible) to engage 5th gear only. It could be the cable but I've mentioned in another thread that I had strange noises from the box when selecting 5th gear ealier this year - now it's missing in action. I don't really "want" to tackle it, that's true enough but 5th gear is fairly useful on a 20 mile trip to work sitting at around 50mph for the majority of the way. I saw that someone on eBay is selling just the selector unit so I wondered about removing it, as this carries the fork that I suspect of being broken. If it'll come out and go back in reasonably easily then I think it's worth having a crack at it. Cheers all, appreciate the input very much. :) To add - I went to look at an old Zafira at the weekend in anticipation of having to replace the gearbox and having my car off the road for a few weeks. If I can avoid having to buy that POS, I'll be a happy chap.

Have you wiped it off before reinsterting the dipstick. & removing it again to view the level?

Drivers who insist in slowing down to 60mph or slower for speed cameras on a dual carriageway with national speed limit signs And the ones who compound this by sitting in the outside lane when the inside lane is clear Plus drivers who dawdle along in front of you happily drifting across the centre line through bends etc then get to a set of traffic lights and go straight through on amber or just gone red leaving me stuck at the lights while they carry on their merry way. Riding with a cycling club on weekends seems to bring out various idiot drivers too

Interesting read through the topic. My ears perked when I heard speaker/sound upgrade :) As usual, Lenny is a wealth of information and an all round great guy. He drove over on his day off previously to me to help me out with the car. Absolute gent. With regards to the sound upgrade, I have completed mine on my Mk2.5 and have some bits of advice: 1. Consider doing it in steps if you don't want to shell out a lot of money from the get go. Also, that way you see/hear the results with each new component added. Trust me when I say that it's quite exciting getting new parts in the car to hear the difference. http://wwv.crutchfield.com/learn/putting-car-audio-to-the-test.html 2. Plan the sound system you want and can afford. Check online sites for deals. If you are willing to wait, there is always deals available on Ebay, Amazon Warehouse etc. e.g I waited till one Ebay shop had a clearout and got my JL Audio sub for £20 less than RRP. 3. Research what you would like to buy and try to listen to it in a shop e.g speakers/subwoofers. 4. From my own personal view, consider Focal for your speakers. They have different ones depending on your budget but if you want a bigger soundstage, their inverted dome tweeters make music a lot more fun to listen. 5. I second Lenny's suggestion for JL audio subs. They are a bit harder to find but the quality is very good. 6. I'm not sure how quiet the MK3 is but do consider sound deadening such as Silent Coat or Dynamat to reduce vibrations. It will make the music sound better in the car and you don't need loads of it. Start with the doors where the speakers are and then do the boot and maybe the floorpan. If you want to further make the car quieter, Mass Loaded Vinyl decoupled by a Closed Cell Foam Layer on the floorpan will help. 7. My own build thread for more info http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/52338-hassens-ford-focus-16-tdci-build-thread/ 8. Mr_Spock' thread for inspiration http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/44150-guide-to-complete-stereo-installation-focus-mk2/ 9. Lenny's build thread for his current sound upgrade. Happy modding :)

Hi and thanks everyone, I have put a letter together and emailed it to Darren Sough at customer services head office. Tomorrow I will send an edited version to the warranty dept at the Head Office. James, The mileage when I purchased the car on 10/04/14 from Ford was 25,838 It failed on 17/02/15 and the milage was 36,832 The car has been used on mainly motorway driving to get my daughter from Bicester to Uni in Surrey. Ian, It's the lower suspension arms. Graham, Thank you..the Sale of Goods Act 1979 has been quoted in my letter I am going to see if I get any joy from head office and their warranty dept anyway. £215 doesn't sound a lot I know in the overall scheme of things but when Ford tell you that on top of the 3 year service and MOT cost ...they want a further £780 to replace the discs, pads and lower suspension arms...its taking the pi** on a car that isnt even 3 yet (although I totally agree that the discs and pads are wear and tear items and are without doubt down to me to sort out) My daughter is doing a degree in Criminology at Uni and is going to speak to her Law lecturer on Thursday....she's a barrister. It will be good practice for her if we take this to the Small Claims Court if Ford will not play ball. For £35 it will be worth every penny on principal. It is shocking if a company are selling cars that cannot last 36000 miles without failing an mot on non friction items. I guess we will have to wait and see what happens...but needless to say I have got the bit between my teeth now! Power to the little people!

Been doing some thinking.. What's everyone's opinion on these? EBay 291015313312 My plans for March are to get the coilovers fitted, even if it means removing the axle spacers temporarily. April , I'll book to have my arches flared and on the arrival of the man in a van I'll stick the wheels on and have everything worked out measurement wise. My plan after that is to continue my heap of research into exhaust systems/manufacturers After that it'll just be tidying up the bodywork, getting a few dents pulled out. Had a quote of £2100 for airride earlier ... No thank you! Aha

Cheers pal just ordered one of them. So now I just have to wait. In the mean time I think I might order my new lights :)

easy enough to do, battery and battery box out, transmission mounting plate off,( 4 nuts), then cables disconnected, 4 bolts holding selector mechanism to box, then out (make sure its in neutral before removing)

I just checked Haynes and it mentions nothing of it so I really don't know if it's something you want to tackle?

First exit on a roundabout - indicate left before joining the roundabout stay in left lane and and continue indicating until leaving the roundabout. Second exit on roundabout- stay in left lane and after passing the first exit indicate left before leaving. Third and subsequent exits- join right lane and indicate right until past the exit before the intended one and then indicate left when leaving.

you gonna need to remove the middle section of the heatshield, ford recommend taking the whole exhaust off but apparently the middle section can be removed without doing it with a bit of force, what you will need to do is replace the little bustard retention clips ford uses to hold it on. whilst not specific to your needs there is a nice guide from a rear drum conversion. it has the relevant information for a new brake cable so should do you well. im about to do that mod myself so would be interested in any pictures and progress on how yo got the shield off Drum brake to Disc brake conversion.pdf

think so never said i was complete though kept saying something along the lines of in the process of resetting it (not those exact words) and said to hit ok hit ok n the warning light bonged straight back up had to do it a few times before it cleared

Do a static regeneration with forscan, 15 quid well spent...

Guys, Seems Civil has started accepting donations for the ELM Project: http://civil.iffc.ru/elmconfig/donate.asp Feel free to contribute!

Edited pic: Sent from my iPhone 5s.

Hi guys, have just got a 2002 1.8 lx Mondeo, having previously owned a 1.6 Focus zetec. When driving, the car sometimes stutters and seems about to stall, but picks up after a quick dip of the clutch, or if above certain speeds, recovers without aid. I had it on a fault code reader, and got the following... P1116 ECT sensorout of self test range P1408 EGRflow out of self test range P1650 PSP switch circuit fault. I have purchased a new EGR valve, and new ECT sensor, guessing that one of these would maybe be the cause. Am I doing the rught thing, or should I be looking elsewhere. Oh, prior to my buying the car, ALL the ignition leads, coil pack plugs etc were replaced with new , genuine Ford dealer parts. Any ideas guys? NB, car is booked in Tuesday morning for the items mentioned to be changed. Regards Pete

Jim, you want to convoy over? The lads from focus owners club have meets there regularly so I know where it is :D *not acting all the smug... :p

Nothing to worry about unless you were doing it at 20mph plus, theres no synchromesh in reversre gear so it thethe 2 gears trying to mesh your hearing, probably everyone who drives has done it at some point, low speed and you hear it and natural reaction is to stop forcing it.shouldnt have done any harm