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    unofix

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    BigLen

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    DaveT70

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/15/2021 in all areas

  1. This is the only convoy I'll be part of this year 😅 some came from across the USA
    5 points
  2. I’m sure charging the battery will work but I’ll be fkd if I’m having to charge the battery on an 18 month old car.
    4 points
  3. There are two ways of doing the changes: Module Configuration Module Configuration (Asbuilt) When you enter the modules in Asbuilt mode you will just see a bunch of codes Splash screen change for example will be 7D0-02-01 you change the relevant code within the box to change the function - sometimes you change a 0 to a 1 In normal module configuration mode there is a list of functions with a drop box next to it Example BCMii - LH Fog Lamp usage - The drop down box will list: No Fogs or None Fog Lamp only Fog and cornering lamp Fog and cornering and DRL Fog and High Beam (Bambi Mode) Fog as DRL etc etc They're all dependant on functionality based on the vehicle You just select the function you want, click OK Then at the bottom of the screen select write all. So you can go into APIM and do all the changes you want and then just click write all and it's done. Just remember to save the standard configuration on your laptop (I title it "REG number/Module/Asbuilt) before you make any changes Just make sure you have a good quality lead, Chinese ELM327 clones can cause issues an OBDLink EX is not expensive and very reliable. Just research, research before going for it. If anything goes wrong and you brick the module (e.g. because it can't understand what you've asked it to do) just reload the abuilt settings and click write all and it will come back. If you get "operation failed" half way through then your lead is no good. Some items require programming in Asbuilt mode only, using codes E.G. Auto High Beam had to be coded (sometimes multiple times) in the following modules BCM, IPC (Cluster), ABS, Camera Module and Power Steering module. It took months trying to get it to work and it was only after finding out that it needed to be programmed in the power steering module that I finally got it to work I hope I've made sense and this will help anyone. Do NOT attempt to update firmware on any modules if you have a cheap lead, please, you will brick the module or worse, the car.
    3 points
  4. Thank heavens for Brexit !! long live MPG 🤣
    2 points
  5. 2 new tyres on the rear and the car drives like a dream again Ironically the car wash sent me a voucher for a Free car wash. Hmmmm
    2 points
  6. Oh thought it was a cold start well it could be the VCT pulleys or solenoids which could be an expensive fix.
    2 points
  7. thats me not gping if its a requirement to have 2 friends. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
    2 points
  8. Now THAT was a great film. Not seen it in yrs
    2 points
  9. ten four rubber ducky LOL 🤣
    2 points
  10. You would be fine making all the climate changes in the APIM in one go, that’s what I did. As @unofix said above definitely save your original configuration before making any changes.
    2 points
  11. Similar problem here with potential solution
    2 points
  12. It depends what brand of discs and pads they use. Sure you could get some cheap ebay crap for £40, but the discs will just warp and the pads will end up containing asbestos. You'll pay £100 for genuine Ford discs & pads. Brembo is usually around the £70-80 mark. Not quote sure what you mean by this, the disc is a big lump on metal lol. The discs do wear slightly though and a lot of garages don't even bother checking them, they just replace them everytime. Getting back to your question, the price sounds reasonable enough. £70 for the parts and £35 a wheel in labour.
    1 point
  13. Hi Luke, have noticed that in the last 48 hours there have been dozens and dozens of new 'members' all asking one line questions. I've answered loads of them but no response from them as though they never come back to read the replys. Also strange amount of new none UK members. Its almost like the board is being spammed. I'm going to stop replying to newbies for a while. I would love to know what the normal daily rate is for new members and what it has been these last few days
    1 point
  14. 1.0 ecoboost focus I got more mpg than my partner's fiesta 1.0 ecoboost. In your l/100km i was getting at least 4.3l/100km in the focus, fiesta she getting 5.6l /100km. Mondeo diesel 4.1l /100km. Think I've converted that right.
    1 point
  15. Hi. If you have an issues with insurance at all for an engine change then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.
    1 point
  16. No, programmed to imperial. My consumption showing on display pretty much matches the amount of fuel used/ replaced when filling up when converted from litres at the pump to imperial gallons . I'm referring to my partner's fiesta ecoboost, my Mondeo and my 1.0 focus ecoboost I used to have.
    1 point
  17. In the UK mpg is in imperial gallons.
    1 point
  18. I did it... It was an absolute nightmare, but I did it. This seat didn't have the side seams just the bottom so I popped the bottom seam and managed to get my hand up the back of the chair and found the cable had disconnected, clipped it back on, job done.
    1 point
  19. If you have aircon, there are two relays that drive the fan. One driven from the CTS via the ECU, and the other from air-con. F4/FD is shown as a 40A
    1 point
  20. Hey Colin.. Yeah upgraded to sync 3, the climate screen works the correct way for me, right hand controls driver side, left side controls passenger.. .. That would be great mate,maybe a sunny daysummer jaunt up to perthshire 🙂
    1 point
  21. Hi guys Finally got my car back from ford They ended up replacing the clutch and flywheel as the clutch bearing had about half an inch of play Hope this helps anyone else 😊
    1 point
  22. My last 3 Fords have been Ford Direct cars and I've never had a single problem with using them to fix things within the warranty you get from them. They've never tried to get out of fixing or ordering a part or asked questions etc, even times when ive thought 'surely they've never come across this before and won't know how to fix it' they do 👍 You'll drop your car off first thing in the morning once you've booked it in and they'll call you in the afternoon to pick it up, or they'll want to keep it overnight as they'll have ordered something which 99% of the time is next day delivery for them, and you'll get the car back the day after. The only time that didn't happen is when I had to have a whole new gear box fitted on a 2017 Fiesta when it was only 1.5 years old.. Would have cost £1000+ had it not been under warranty, they had it for around 10 days but gave me an EcoSport to drive around in the meantime 😅
    1 point
  23. Sounds like a plan! I’m also new to new cars! I’ve been used to running cars well out of warranty, so don’t have a clue. it’s a Ford Direct car too so as far as I’m aware it gets full unlimited milage warranty as if it was a new car.
    1 point
  24. No expense, its all under warranty. I got them to fit me 4 new door edge protectors while they were at it as they didn't fully open and clasp onto the doors, and also a new alloy as it was like the metallic coating was peeling off on one of them no questions asked, take full advantage of the 3 year warranty while you can, doesn't hurt booking it in for them to have a quick look!😉
    1 point
  25. Thanks four your answers. I preferred to cancel the purchase of the vehicle.
    1 point
  26. Just to add, APIM does not show up on Focus MK4 with some leads on Forscan, mine didn't show up until I bought the OBDLink EX. If it doesn't show up, delete the profile, disconnect the battery for 10 mins and start again
    1 point
  27. Have a look at this previous topic on the subject of lug nuts. Any further help, just come back here. ScaniaPBman
    1 point
  28. Thats right, I don't mean universal unlock. I think thats where you have the option to have either just the drivers door or all the doors unlock when you press the button on the key? All 4 doors you should be able to walk up to and 'open' or tap the 3 little bumps and lock the door, as long as the key is in proximity this only worked on my drivers door and the boot though. I also had the 'tinny' parking sensor/alert sounds (as ive seen some describe It on here) and the S/S didn't work. All from what I gathered on this forum are battery related issues Took it to ford who like I say diagnosed a faulty battery, they ordered a new one and fitted it the next day and jobs a good en 🙂
    1 point
  29. Hi Focue, I think you could be right about the VCT pulleys, I was kind of thinking alternator / belt but it is more likely the pulley. Very difficult to hear the sound clearly.
    1 point
  30. Towing eye cover, they do go `missing` or get stolen. Perfectly safe to drive without it.
    1 point
  31. They are but the poor infrastructure regarding charging is the main stumbling block. Until that gets sorted on a widespread scale then its " As you were" 🙂
    1 point
  32. If you want something cheaper the original Tunnelrat modified ELM with manual switch is available here. Tunnelrat have a good reputation and individually test all their cables before despatch. I have one and it works very well.
    1 point
  33. Or the comms has gone ***** up. I'm assuming you don't have a multimeter to check battery volts? Quick check - disconnect battery for 10 mins and see if it all comes back to life when reconnected. If not, most probably duff battery.
    1 point
  34. Anyone coming to ford fare in June? Might be going there and meeting two friends from who I got my wheels from and going in a convoy there.
    1 point
  35. It is not a problem but just a characteristic of this engine. You either have to accept this or get rid of the car.
    1 point
  36. The very first post in this thread by Colinmcg71 has a list of all the changes needed. Use the latest version of ForScan and just select what you want
    1 point
  37. I've only just seen this topic somehow, but I'll add my 2p, even if it is a year late :P. I went for the dreamscience imap on my ST. For me, it boiled down to the fact it comes with 5 lives. This means I can chop and change the map on my car as many times as I want, but when I return it to stock and sell the unit, it will then use a life on the next owner. A lot of these plug in boxes are tied to the car which I didn't really like, but mine will only have lost £50 in value when I come to sell it. Actually the real reason was it had a map that included exhaust flames Hehe.
    1 point
  38. If I've been doing my homework correct, I need to save the config first (as a 'factory' backup I'll call it) so that if anything goes wrong, I have that to set it back to the factory settings? I guess that I could save a backup of my changes too, so that when it goes for a service I could restore the factory backup and then when done, restore my settings?
    1 point
  39. Yeah I managed to get it all sorted it was me missing the wiring to the canbus box that came with it I'd definitely recommend it but do get the 2gb ram version there is next to no boot time! Only thing I did change was I took the gps out from under the dash and ran it to the top of the windscreen as well t dropped out a couple of times under the dash.
    1 point
  40. I wouldn't worry Karl - plenty of us think pretty much the same!😀
    1 point
  41. So after more black smoke and has not stopped smoking looks like the garage ripped me off and it was not the dpf, I took it to a dpf specialist and he advised me you have a background code egr and when he was looking at the live data it was sticking all the time but not enough to though an engine light on. He said my dpf was is good heath and the dpf does not couse black smoke like I had. So I had the egr turned off and now no smoke at all. At last a happy drive again. Also I'm now getting an avg 72mpg.
    1 point
  42. You took a ROVER to a car wash !!!!!!!!!!!! I'm amazed there was anything left for you to sit in 🤣
    1 point
  43. I’ve used the RaceX that’s listed for the last 10-12years and it’s been spot-on as far as I’m concerned.
    1 point
  44. If your car is a bit too much off line as it gets pulled on to the conveyor it jams the sidewall of the tyre against the guide rail applies a side ways force on the tyre as it drags the car diagonally on to the conveyor. I've had it happen to my car and I know of at least one other who has had the same. Thats why I guessed what was wrong when I read Jonj1611's orginal post.
    1 point
  45. The 1.0 ECOboost in the Focus MK4 does not have a dual mass flywheel. The Focus MK4 1.0 ECOboost has the MX65 gearbox combined with a solid flywheel. The MX65 gearbox is a modular design that includes both 5-speed and 6-speed versions. The Focus MK4 1.0 ECOboost has the strongest available version of the MX65 gearbox that can handle a maximum torque of 215 Nm. The MX65 gearbox was developed primarily to reduce costs even further the MX65 gearboxes are combined with solid flywheels. The MX65 gearboxes replace both the old IB5 gearbox and the B6 gearboxes on lower powered engine types.
    1 point
  46. On the original audio system the SWC (Steering Wheel Control) signal is connected to Pin 7 and Pin 10 of the FCDIM (display) and communicated further to the ACM and Bluetooth/Voicecontrol or SYNC module by CANbus communication. You need to make sure that the connector that was originally connected to the FCDIM is now connected to the new aftermarket Android radio. If this connector is connected to the new Android radio the SWC functionality should work. If the connector is connected and the SWC functionality does not work the aftermarket Android radio itself will most likely be the cause of the problem. Also note that on most aftermarket Android radio's the SWC needs to be configured/defined in the factory settings of the radio. On some aftermarket Android radio's the SWC wires need to be cut and physically connected to the SWC input of the radio. The Ford SWC is just a basic resistance circuit (every button has its own resistance value). This basic type of SWC circuit is supported by 99% of all aftermarket Chinese Android radio's.
    1 point
  47. @simps100 you need to take a 12V supply to the red cable on the new ISO harnass. Typically Red is 12V+, black is ground and yellow is also 12V but constant 12V. Just confirm what cable is what with your instruction manual for your new stereo head unit. You’ll more than likely find you have no spare fuses holders left, so Halfords do a doubler you can plug in that can take 2 fuses. Then take a flying lead to your new harness.
    1 point
  48. Fair enough, let us know the outcome then. I suspect they'll just tell you it was a DPF regen though... If it was a split boost pipe, that should be easily picked up as underboost which triggers limp mode and the EML. Injectors are a possibility, but for the cost of them, it's not worth replacing until they give unbearable symptoms. PS - If you can see someone flashing their headlights, it can't be that bad!
    1 point
  49. It drives fine, it passes MOT fine, no engine lights, no limp mode, no fault codes, funds are low atm....just forget about it imo! Realistically, the DPF probably isn't sealed 100% inside the DPF can and allowing a bit of soot to pass. This soot builds up in the exhaust as you dawdle around town. The extra airflow from booting it once a week blows out that build up of soot. MOT testers are required to purge the exhaust (give it a boot!) before performing the smoke test for this reason.
    1 point




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