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On a 2017 car, the batteries in the TPMS sensors could be low. They typically last 7 to 10 years depending on the mileage.

I had an Active X Vignale Edition from brand new and hated it. Somehow the suspension was both too rough over poor surfaces and too wallowy around corners or throttle/brakes. Impressive feat tbf... Sadly adaptive suspension was not an option on them. I also had a Titanium X (non Active) which rode much better. Still a bit rough on poor surfaces, but at least the body roll wasn't so severe. Haven't driven an ST-Line X as the sports suspension and low profile tyres were never going to meet my comfort requirements. It's probably time to stop reading and get a couple of test drives.

If you go for a 1.5 EcoBoost pre-2019 you'll get independent rear suspension. The 1.5 diesel never got proper rear suspension in Mk4, though it sounds like that might not bother you. There isn't a 2.0 EcoBoost in Mk4 Focus in the UK. The only 2.0 is the EcoBlue, with wetbelts. Regarding the chain failing on the 1.5 EcoBlue - that could leave metal swarf and debris which will cause damage if it gets into bearings etc. As said before, there isn't a totally reliable engine. Servicing on a 2018 1.5 EcoBlue is every 10k or 12 months. (No adblue means the EGR has to work overtime which ultimately means more DPF regens and more oil contamination). 2 yearly servicing is for the EcoBoosts OR the Adblue models which weren't introduced until 2020.

85PS map won't recognise the LPG system, that's why it's detuned to cope with LPG

And, as said several times on here, "Ecoboost" is just a generic Ford term for any turbocharged petrol engine and can cover anything from a 1.0 triple to a 3.5 V6.

This is the first gen engine. You can see the chain driving the oil pump from the crank. I’ll try and find something that shows the 2nd gen engine.

No oil pump belt on the 2.3. It is chain driven. Driven by the crank in the first gen 2.3. Driven by the balance shaft on the 2nd gen which is used in the ST 2019 onwards.

I'm always ready to criticise new innovations, but having had this on several Fords over the last dozen years or so, I think it's great and have never had an issue. My wife's car has a conventional locking petrol cap which now seems a complete PITA in comparison. (Odd how it always seems to need fuel when I drive it, too!😀)

Alternatively if you pop down to your local tyre place (that has a tpms machine) they can check the status of all 4 sensors and if one doesn't show as is what happened on my focus, then you just get that sensor replaced

eBay, and just buy the complete assembly. Comes with cable, base, fixings, aerial. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354960602418? OR https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134970257319?

Very probably you have an ABS wheel sensor failing. The usual one is the front O/S but it could be any, you need to use FORScan and see what DTC has been logged. ABS wheel sensors are easy to replace and cost less than £30 FORScan: https://www.forscan.org/download.html vLinkerFS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

You could use FORScan and it will most probably identify which wheel it is that triggers the TPMS alert.

Expect a long wait for an answer.

Will ask the Ford mechanic at my local dealership, thanks a lot guys!

Thanks @orangecurry. I lifted the carpet again and stuffed the biggest towel I had under there. I also finished sealing the rear and behind both lights as there is still water getting in. The only holes left is under the rear bumper and that’s way beyond me. I also took off the scuttle, thanks for the official title, and found a mini garden. I removed a huge amount of leaf matter but couldn’t see any drain holes that were blocked, especially on the drivers side as it was occupied by the wiper motor. Still, the leaf matter shouldn’t be there. When I put the scuttle back on I did my best to get it under the windscreen but there is still a small gap in the middle. Is this an issue given that any water will probably go into the scuttle space and drain off ???

I'm afraid I don't know the BMS reset for the Mk2 Ka as it will be a Fiat process rather than the Ford version. A quick Google suggests they don't have a BMS and should just be left disconnected for half an hour to reset all modules but I'm sceptical about that. Hopefully someone else knows for sure. If not, it would be worth checking the Fiat 500 forums.

Yes! I just tried to start the car with the old assembly removed and just the old key and wouldn't start. The old shell is completely empty so perhaps the chip is embedded into the casing? Any ideas ideas where I could find it?

The battery charging is different for stop/start models. So even if you never use the stop/start, a normal battery will get damaged by that type of charging over time. It can also damage the alternator as well. Stop start batteries can be bought cheaply enough nowadays so there's not really an excuse not to use them. All that said...my own car (VW) had a non-stop/start battery fitted for at least 4 years with no major issues. I didn't notice until I went to replace it after a long period without use. The stop start even worked fine for the 3 years I drove it. I wouldn't recommend anyone does that purposefully though. The battery monitoring system will need to be reset but I don't think the battery needs coding in on Fiats. (Mk2 Ka is a Fiat 500 with Ford badges)

It sounds like you swapped the PCB but not the chip. If the old key still works, the old chip is still in it.

This gives a better overview of primary and secondary forces on a 4 pot:

Its primary forces are balanced, but its secondary forces are not:

So from what I've found so far, the oil pump isn't even chain drive on the 2nd gen, the pump and balancer is a single assembly that is gear driven directly off the crankshaft: #13:

No VSS on Mondeo built after 02/2003 with the introduction of new ABS module.

If the diagnostics was done using a generic code reader then that would be why. Use FORScan which can read both the HS and the MS canbus. It will read the Ford specific DTC's which includes the SRS (airbag). FORScan: https://www.forscan.org/download.html vLinkerFS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

The aftermarket camera that I got (integrated with boot release) from ebay was quite affordable (less than £20). Together with the RCA adapter that comes with crimped pins, the component cost is less than £30 for me. It's true however that the installation process is not for the fainthearted, given the number of trims & screws that one has to remove from the center console in order to get to the back of the SYNC unit to validate the wire & pin arrangement of the 54-pin APIM connector. But if you are the lucky ones having a grey plug AND (emphasis added) that you are sure your SYNC display can get video feed directly from the grey plug with the car's existing wiring connection, from what I read it is not necessary to mess up anything in the front portion of the car at all. That would save loads of time. I happened to be the unlucky ones having a grey plug that connects to thin air. if i knew beforehand the connection was not there, I might have suppressed my OCD and gotten myself an additional screen/mirror with integrated display for the reverse camera. Hope the information helps!

I would clear out the scuttle, and see how it goes. To dry out underneath carpets, (when not driving!) each day stick a fresh dry towel under the rubber, leave it until evening, and repeat. The best way to dry any car is to park it in the full sun, with windows/doors open as appropriate, jam something under the carpet to lift it and allow air to circulate as best you can..... but you may be waiting a few months or years for the sun.

Well, I don't know from 1st hand experience, all I know is that on the Talkford.com forum, ppl have fitted a later gbox to an earlier model, for instance to give them a 6-speed box, only to discover that the speedo drive is blanked off... Here's a typical thread.... https://www.talkford.com/threads/trying-to-find-my-speed-sensor.230694/

The Focus Mk4 and Mk4.5 Ecoboost engines have a timing chain and not a wet belt. They have however, retained the small wet belt that drives the oil pump.

Only the early (pre-facelift) Mk3s, 2000-2003, had the speedo driven from the gearbox.The later, facelift models had the speedo driven by abs sensor. It could be that fault code is a historic one that has never been cleared....there are no dates stamps so you don't know how long ago it occurred. The best policy is to note the codes, clear them, drive for a bit then see which codes return, then you know if they relate to a current problem.

.... you look at the radio when the headline acts for Glastonbury are announced and utter the phrase "Who the f###?" SZA pronounced Scissor apparently 🤷 https://news.sky.com/story/glastonbury-2024-line-up-announced-as-organisers-confirm-headline-acts-dua-lipa-coldplay-and-sza-13093053

That looks a bit much for the oil cooler tbh. Wouldn't be surprised if the head or block was cracked. Oil cooler should be easy enough to remove & test though so might as well start with that.

Must be posh thieves using drills. All you need is an old screwdriver and a lump hammer.

No, the tanks are only plastic.

You use a 'Drill' and make a hole in the tank, put container under tank to catch the fuel 🤣

Exactly that, 40% less manufacturing costs plus higher retail sale price

Not really, their market is about 10% of UK and 5% of German market

The semi-conductor issues that affected car production worldwide were most definitely not imagined or made up. While the supply chain was severely limiting supply of parts it made commercial sense to assign the ones available to models making the most profit while other assembly lines were sat idle and people were being paid to stay at home.

Recently read a quote from MG on the demise of the Fiesta : "A very iconic car has disappeared and I think there's a great opportunity for someone to come and sweep up for those people that don't necessarily want an SUV and still want a 4.1 metre supermini that pretty much ticks all the boxes" said MG's David Allison of its new £18,000 hybrid.

Because in Norway you'd be stupid not to buy Electric. The govt has incentivised EVs unlike here and have been doing so for decades so the infrastructure has grown with it. In Norway there is no duty or VAT on an EV. Whereas combustion vehicles are heavily (based on emissions iirc) taxed. They also have abundant hydro power, which is state owned and so costs are low. My best mate is Norwegian, last year he bought a brand new e-208 GT for £27k. It's about £10k more in the UK. Whereas my ST over there is more like double the price it is here. He's saving about £200 a month in "fuel" now.

I guess lots will point to the Norway car market, where last year, 90% of all new cars sold were electric and expects to hit 100% next year.

Correct, BMW and VAG still offer both

It doesn't sound very well, over over-filling can cause hydro-lock, or start it, the pressure could have damaged the belt due to the drag on the bottom end. My only advice would be to strip the engine to check The VVT warnings could be due to the head timing being out

It’s being discontinued because “SUVs” and crossovers are higher margin. They can sell you a Puma at a higher price than a fiesta even though they are the same platform. Same with the Kuga on the focus platform. People will (did?) pay more because they thought they were getting more car for their money when in reality they are just over paying for the same platform. It’s higher margins on these unnecessarily bigger cars and the marketing to convince people they want them that have killed the hatchbacks.

Thanks. As expected, 90% rants, no technical diagnosis... Buying a used car does not reset the engine to as-new condition. Having owned a used car two weeks is not relevant. The car having an RRP of £30,000 4 years before it broke is not relevant. Having the car serviced by an independent garage is relevant and makes the likelihood of incorrect oil much higher. If the timing has shifted that's potentially due to a failing chain tensioner. (Oil pump belt alone can't change timing). I would need to see some proper diagnosis for that. The engine failing at 70mph without the driver being able to coast it off of the carriageway seems very odd. Possibly poor observation skills and a missed oil pressure warning. The oil pump belt with all teeth missing is the most interesting post there. But doesn't say what caused it, so again not actually helpful. You are welcome to choose whichever engine you like. Funny thing is, when I first joined here, it was with the 1.6 TDCI (that has morphed over the years into the 1.5 EcoBlue) and everyone was saying how terrible the 1.6 TDCI was back then and that they should be avoided!

I had to stay out of the EcoBoost Facebook group. So much misinformation on there it was doing my head in! I bet you can find horror stories about any engine if you look hard enough. As I said in another thread yesterday, the days of total reliability are long gone.

Due to the design of the 1.5 EcoBlue engine, when the small cam chain fails on them, only the exhaust cam stops turning, the pistons will generally force any open exhaust valves straight upwards, breaking just the rocker arms above. So the repair is a new dry belt, new small chain, and a few rocker arms. As the valves should not have been bent or caused any further internal damage. I would be interested to know why Ford condemned the engine on that other thread. The 1.0 EcoBoost wetbelts that are failing regularly are almost exclusively still the cambelt on the old engine. I think I've only heard of 3 or 4 oil pump belts failing on the later chain engines. I suspect the cost for the chain upgrade would be around £700 without having to replace rocker arms etc. You would also have the peace of mind of a fresh cambelt which should be good for another 10 years.

I suspect you're over thinking this !! All engines made by all manufactures have problems, some are just a lot more known about. The Ecoblue 1.5 is as good as any modern engine gets 👍. If you want something to worry about then an Ecoboost 1.0 should tick all the boxes 🤣

Get a VAG or a BMW 1 Series

Rear light clustets boot hinges and spoiler seal all leak tell tale signs is a damp or wet boot process of elimination though its best to use quality sealant and seal all 3 suspected areas. Power steering hose just behind the radiator and at the join to the pump are prone to leaks from corrosion recommend every 6 months applying grease to the area such as vaseline to prevent this. Noisy aircon pumps can be from either the bearing or the system needing regassed since the regass is cheap its best trying this first also the ti vct uses a different aircon pump a vss pump which varies the gas so it does not click on and off regularly like older pumps but runs continously. The heated windscreen can fail on one side either its a simple fuse issue to which there are 2 1 for each side or some cars under the scuttle panel have the electrical ribbon loose which gets rubbed by the wipers when in motion causing it to fail. Rear hatch gathers water so when it rains and the boots opened water pours in ford sell 2 self adhesive plastic strips which is supposed to address this issue it helps but doesnt prevent it happening. The design of the door seals means after or during rain once the doors opened water runs into the car there is no fix and its a common issue on the mk2 The aircon drain can get blocked or detatch allowing water into the dtlriver footwell the drain is found behind the plastic panel at the drivers left leg a poke through with a wire hanger usually clears it if loose its best to reattatch with silicone. Dash displays stay lit after the car is locked for between 20-40 minutes the ecu remains live storing vehicle data for this period of time monitoring under bonnet temperatures once the ecu shuts down the display remains off displays which stay on for long periods such as overnight usually have pcm issues which bbereman can repair cheap. Despite fords its galvanised claims the focus rusts particularly on the front and rear sills as well as front and rear arches therefore its imperative you deal with paint chips pretty quickly. Rear bushes like the mk1 are prone to wear around the 5 year mark some are easy to change some are not. The ti vct can go into limp mode with no power this can be either the ti vct timing relays on top of the engine or the cam itself the cam unit is not easy or cheap to repair so should be left to a dealer the cambelt will also need replaced during this average cost £500 minimum. Worn or cheap brake pads and disks can cause a distinct click when braking. A noise like a knock or thump between 10-15 mph is the abs test and is normal should happen only once usually when first using the car. Poor idle can be due to the pcv valve needing replaced the springs weaken and can gunge up for the sake of £10 its best to replace this. Rear drums prone to sticking in cold damp weather a clunk will be heard from the rear as it unsticks getting under the rear and spraying wd40 on the rear handbrake cables both sides before winter sets in can cure if not help this. Paint removal on the sills lower doors front and rear is common a plastic protector should be attatched though this helps its advised to fit mudflaps even this will not stop road salt blasting paint away but reduces the effects dramatically. Wind noise from the front windows is common often sounds like the window is open slightly when its not ford have no fix for this the mk2.5 recieved thicker door seals and glass to prevent this. Rattles from under the car more often than not are loose heatshields or a broken rear or midfle exhaust hanger a new exhaust is not needed since the hanger detatches at the exhaust removing from the hanging rubber and buying a bracket clamp from ebay for £8 solves the issue and is easy to fit. Rear washers not working can be a detatched hose inside the spoiler or a detatched hose in the car at the driver rear in the headlining where it stops at the boot For winter a good screenwash used pure down to -10 -20 such as preston is needed as the screenwash bottle is under the wheel arch liner and will freeze heated washers wont defrost this. leaky washer jets is common upgraded parts available but still leak only answer is to silicone them Check all electrics work as they should let the car idle and sit in it any bad shudders could indicate the coil pack plugs and leads need replaced to solve misfires its best to do all 3 and use dielectric grease on the spark plug terminals at the plugs and coil pack. Dpf failures are common and expensive however its possible to get companies to remove the dpf fault by removing the dpf altogether saving a small fortune and endless headache Diesel issues ill leave to the diesel owners