Leaderboard

Has a rattling noise in the tailgate was bothering me for some time it started off not as noisy and then started getting louder and could hear it when turning corners or going over speed bumps. Took off the trim and found a metal clip had come off the trim (the first noise quieter). Spotted an empty hole where the spoiler bolts on so pulled off the side trim and out pops the spoiler bolt well done ford with your tightening skills 😂 Loud rattling gone I would advise everyone with a MK3 to check the bolts just incase your spoiler fly's off into a wind screen eventually.

Think of all the employment the poster creates and also supporting FoMoCo parts department too. The guy needs applauding, not castigated 🤣

Me too. Mine are piled on top of an empty notebook that I didn't want to spoil by writing in it.

I've now discovered how to find a junction of two roads: I can use the voice control saying "Find a junction" (or something like that). It then asks for the town, then Street 1 then Street 2. When I did that successfully, the destination was displayed with the two roads separated by a forward slash. So I realised that I can input by typing the two roads with a "/" between them... and it works. 🙂

Why do you change the wipers every year? I bought my car (used) nearly five years ago, and I haven't changed the wipers yet. They still work as well as they ever did. I'll change them when I notice that they are split or not wiping the windscreen properly, and even then I'll try cleaning them first.

Wait till it stops raining! LOL I never trust online databases for such easily measured stats.

Yes the card is now scrap. Message FOC admin and they will send you a new code, but it's only for 8% now 🙁

Go on, save yourself a few bob, do it yourself. Never paid a garage in my 40+ motoring years to replace a simple wiper blade... Oh, always buy the correct 'specific' blade for your car, don't bother with 'universal' fitments that come with a 1000 attachments!

Didn't you just say that you change them every year ?

Never used them (for fitting) but I guess Halfords would supply and fit them for less. I would expect to pay £20-£30 for a pair of front wipers and around £10-£15 for a rear wiper. Probably around £5 to fit (but that might be per blade). They arent that difficult to fit yourself.

Fram to Copdock should be more than long enough. Funnily enough, Ipswich to Fram was one of my regular regen trips when I had the Focus and needed to do a longer trip after several short ones. People have been asking why there's no regen progress light for 20 odd years. The answer is that DPF regen is meant to be an entirely passive process requiring no driver input at all. In reality it doesn't work like that. I could always tell when a regen was occurring, but other people are less sensitive to minor changes in engine note etc. Most of the delivery vans here are electric now. Much better suited to multi-drop than Euro 6.2 diesels. Though not so convenient for longer distances and rural areas. Sadly poor experiences at dealerships aren't uncommon nowadays but that is one of the worst I've read lately.

You can also check on Gov.uk, when doing an MOT check. The option still comes up even if your car is not yet due it's 1st MOT.

I bet it's not as organised as mine. 🤣🤣

Just about! 😀

It is a lemon. After sept 2019 the oil capacity went from 3.8l to 6.2l to cope with the frequent regens of 6.2. Emmisions . my Mondeo 2.0 TDI 6.2 would passively regen every 35miles or so.

Has he learnt to walk upright yet ? 🤣🤣🤣

Theres been a spillige by the previous owner for some reason and only cleaned the carpet surface.

My dad's got a briefcase with all his important paper documents in. He writes letters to complain alot where as I email. it's a generation( old age) thing . He is 90. As for paperless payslips, mine have been paperless since 2017. Acessed via an employee app. Everything is on the app including holiday requests and authorisations, enquiries over my pay if I think they have underpaid me. that normally happens in Feb pay slip every year ,but for some reason this year they got it right. I do have a dedicated drawer I put any paperwork like insurance certs, council tax , water bill etc in and clear it out once a year when it doesn't close 🤣🤣

You've obviously done more research than many first posters on here do. It's not clear whether the 7 regens all completed? I was expecting most had failed, hence the major increase in oil level. The car isn't psychic, it doesn't know when you'll be doing a longer journey. Mine used to get triggered regularly on a short trip to the supermarket. I'd fail it (knowingly) and let it regen on the next long trip. But could easily fail it 4 times before that. The 301 miles will be the maximum between regens. That's the failsafe regen that's meant to be triggered only if the pressure sensor doesn't trigger a regen before then. On pretty much every car with this engine it will be much less. I wouldn't be surprised to see a completed regen every 100 miles on this engine. So with that in mind, the best thing you could do now would be to record live data of measured DPF pressure differential, estimated soot loading, estimated ash loading, and regens to see what the figures are when it's triggering a regen. I know it's hassle you probably don't want but the only other option is to keep going back to Ford. Regarding Adblue - most drivers (and fleet buyers) wanted to avoid it and would be put off vehicles with it. I'm not sure if it was a purposeful avoidance by Ford for more sales, or whether there were parts shortages that prevented it being fitted to the early ones, but I agree it does seem very odd that they didn't get Adblue from the launch of this engine.

Frequent regens are normal for this engine. That's the only way they could get it to meet Euro 6 standards without Adblue. Oil changes are recommended at 12 months or 10k miles on this engine as it is fully expected to contaminate the oil in that time. Are you doing short, cold journeys and stopping the regens before they complete?

Thanks for your reply again Tom. Yes, I too am aware of a regen happening, usually when coming to a stop and feeling a slightly rumbly idle accompanied with subtly higher revs (idle is usually 790rpm, when regen its more like 950rpm). But, it would be nice to know when the regen started and when it is likely to end - I could plan more easily this way. What I cant understand is that for the first 33ish months I didn't have an issue or any error codes. It was only after a long trip to Cornwall that the first errors showed up - I'm thinking that the prolonged regen conditions caused multiple regens and being toward the end of the 12 month cycle it hadn't had an oil change in a while, so the dilution was probably bad before the journey commenced. I had no idea or understanding of this symptom/problem then. I've had to learn after a multitude of failed visits to the dealer. However, since the software update (which happened just prior to its first mot) the issue has been increscent. It shows up literally every month or two. Do you have any advice regards a final solution for me? If the dealership offered me a full refund of the purchase price, I would purchase a new adBlue or Petrol version from them. Cheers!

My summer Oz wheels are ET38 (maybe 8.5”rims) and clear the arches ok As said above it’s also important for calipers to clear the spokes of the wheels etc, that’s not always obvious just going off the wheel spec measurements

I can only offer you advice from years of experience. Many models of both Ford and others like Vauxhall frequently get water ingress in to the Body Control Modules. How the water gets there is often never known, and sometimes it comes from faulty screen wash pumps like on the Mondeo. Do I think the wipers will work normally if you disconnect the alarm system ? No. The fault might very well not be water ingress to the GEM/BCM on your vehicle but it is worth looking at if you still have a problem with the wipers.

Been in the footwell and traced wires coming off the brake control. Main loom heads up toward the top of the dash then appears to head towards the centre of the dash away from the bcm (bcm is by the fuse box to the right of the steering wheel right?). There’s a blue wire coming off the brake pedal loom and that heads into a loom that travels alongside the driver seat. Nothing like electrical gremlins on a Sunday

Thanks for this info, will certainly look further into this. But is there a way I can discount the bcm as being where the fault lies? The lights have come on through the night after heavy downpours which says to me something somewhere is getting water in. Inside the cab is bone dry. cheers

If you want a chain in Mk2 Focus the only option is the 1.8 or 2.0 petrol engine. (Duratec HE)

Hi Jimpster, fore sure it would be simpler, but the cost compared to the age of the car is not worth it. Since I'm tinkering a bit I'd prefer to do it alone. Hi TomsFocus, ok thanks, I'm already going to try to wash the dirtiest, and test with the Eezibleed or just the pressure of the garder hose water perhaps...

Rumours there's portable solar power too. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

The new courier only comes in 2 flavours , petrol and electric and an optional pedal power for the royal mail.

Prepare to be surprised. 🤔 P2291 can be as simple as a clogged fuel filter. If that hasn't been changed recently, it's worth doing as it's fairly cheap and easy. It could also be because of a small leak on the low pressure side, allowing fuel to drain back to the tank overnight. Or the fuel pressure regulator, or even a weak high pressure pump, though they're not common on this engine. P1303 is for EGR calibration (assuming this is from Ford specific diags such as Forscan). If the EGR is stuck open there won't be enough oxygen to burn all the fuel completely. But that should be leaving some black/grey exhaust smoke. Unless it's being masked by the DPF. I don't generally worry about the injector learning offset codes, I'm yet to read an 8v 1.6 TDCI without any of those codes present! Mine was only 6 years old/42k miles when it was throwing those codes. The injectors are the weak point on this engine though, so on balance of probability, it is likely to be one or more injectors failing. However, it is odd there's no fault code for a dead injector or injector loom fault.

You will probably need a "LazyTongs" to do the rivets. Whilst you have got it off, this is the ideal time to fit reversing sensors !

I thought it was just me that had that exact same system 😂

Unfortunately not! 😡 It's not really as bad as I'm making out, I just don't like being told what to do! 😀 I do feel sorry for at least one of my colleagues who I'm certain doesn't have a computer or smart phone let alone and email address!

Sounds like a dead cylinder, so could be either a clogged injector (I'd guess cylinder 4) or clogged injector feed pipe

Boomers don't know how lucky they are - living in multi-roomed mansions with gardens and garages and letterboxes! How the other half live!!

Does that mean you're getting the beers in ? 🤣

I’m not aware of many issues with the 1.5 dragon engine. Ecoboost is just a generic name given by Ford to turbo charged Petrol engines. Most of them are unrelated. 1.0 is a Fox engine 1.5 and 1.6 4 cylinder is a Sigma engine 1.5 3 cylinder is a Dragon engine 2.0 and 2.3 are evolutions of the Mazda L engine All are called ecoboost. All are different engine families.

belt

We are currently witnessing Ford committing commercial suicide. They are killing off the run of the mill cars and putting all their eggs in the BEV basket. But there is already a backlash starting over BEVs, with people preferring HEVs & PHEVs and a large shift in development of Hydrogen powered and, more importantly 100% Ethanol powered vehicles, they've already stopped building so many F150 Lightnings because A: Nobody really wanted them, only the brainwashed and they've bought them now and B: they lost $35,000 per unit They have no BEVs on the market, apart from the Mustang Cack-E so all they have is an overpriced Fiesta and an overpriced Focus that are at 20% volume of the Fiesta and Focus, just look at the pre-pandemic sales figures They refused to build Fiestas and Focus' through Pandemic due to "so-called" semi-conductor issues, but in reality, they wanted to make more money per unit. I believe Ford will be bankrupt in 5 years, the killing of the Fiesta was the most stupid thing to do, ever. You just watch the new MG3 become market leader And Focus is next

It’s being discontinued because “SUVs” and crossovers are higher margin. They can sell you a Puma at a higher price than a fiesta even though they are the same platform. Same with the Kuga on the focus platform. People will (did?) pay more because they thought they were getting more car for their money when in reality they are just over paying for the same platform. It’s higher margins on these unnecessarily bigger cars and the marketing to convince people they want them that have killed the hatchbacks.

I just don't like the look of them or the interior unfortunately.

Hi Mike @houndog, also aka One Post Wonder Welcome to the Ford Owners Club 👍 Sadly this problem has been on going since the Kuga PHEV was first released. So far as I know there is no known fix. Some members have found a 'work around' which is basically disconnect the charger the moment the battery is charged. Then you must drive the car if even for just 1 mile before you park and switch off. This seems for most owners to work and stop the 12V battery being drained. If you ever do get a real fix, please call back and let the other owners know 😀 PS. You need to update your profile with your new car details.

OP here, and thought it worth rounding off the thread. I can't believe it was back in March I was asking about this but having mulled it over all summer and autumn I decided to give it a go - just as we entered winter. Not the best of timing for such a big job out on the drive but there you go! I opted to DIY it primarily given the cost of getting a garage to do it, or rather the high cost being a reflection of how much work there is and I didn't feel comfortable leaving it to a mechanic who is working to the clock. I know many take pride in their work, but many don't, and it's knowing who's who that's difficult! Besides which, I figured the amount I'd be saving would buy a whole load of tools should I need them along the way and I'd still be quids in. I'd also be learning a lot along the way and would have a far better understanding about the engine, its layout an operation etc, once done. So, would I recommend it to other amateur mechanics (emphasis on amateur!) like me? I would actually. It's a big job - or rather a long job. What surprised was just how much stuff has to come off. Sure, the Ecoboost engine does look busy up top and so I knew all that would have to come out, but so much else was bolted to/around the timing belt cover that had to come off too which surprised me. I soon learnt that as daunting as the whole job was, if you just break it down into each stage - of which there must be easily fifty or so (and then another fifty to rebuild it!) - then it is reasonably manageable. I had a few issues along the way such as a stuck heatshield bolt, even more stuck exhaust flange bolts and also a snapped aircon compressor bolt. Nightmares at the the time but looking they were just learning experiences really and if they were to happen again I'd be a lot more confident about that sort of thing happening. Regarding the infamous crank bolt it is indeed quite a titan of a thing. Its size and tightness are more befitting of a railway bridge than a 1L engine. But there's no getting around it. I borrowed an impact gun to remove it although it wouldn't budge to begin with, but this turned out to be due to the 3/4"-to-1/2" adaptor robbing torque as when I bought a 3/4" socket it came straight off. For tightening I borrowed a torque wrench to get the 300Nm (mine only goes up to 250Nm), or it might even be 200Nm) and a 3/4" breaker plus scaffold pipe for the 90°. My biggest fear with tightening was whether the flywheel locking from my cheap (£40) timing tool set might fail (and end up inside the bell housing!) but it held good. In fact I was really impressed with the timing set - felt very well made. If anyone is thinking of giving it a go but has any questions to help sway them one way or the other, or is midway through the job and wants to discuss any aspect, do shout.

Camera connector: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004283700650.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.3a1d4bc0EVqaDy&algo_pvid=f74f136f-0ebb-43d6-ae9a-b734cc009089&algo_exp_id=f74f136f-0ebb-43d6-ae9a-b734cc009089-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000028623769877"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!PLN!5.75!4.08!!!!!%402145279016791397590174225d0715!12000028623769877!sea!PL!0&curPageLogUid=LiB0IfbPXn4b&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol

Somewhere there, just follow the right bunch of tailgate wires:

The white cable added to BCM, (it was the same type as one added to APIM connector):

Here is the wiring diagram you need. Camera has connector C4357. There is no need to buy the whole tailgate loom. Only connector for camera, and cables from it going do the place where is the connector C405 (right side, close to the rear lamp). Ford save like a hell, so there will be no cables and pins in this connector, all are missing. To the same place (close to C405), you need to drag cables from APIM and BCM. This cables can tied together for good, however it is better to add there any kind of pluggable connector in case of need to remove tailgate (body repair). It is also possible to reuse C405 and add missing pins but there are quite specific and might be difficult to find exact male & female pins, the only reasonable source of such pins is same type of connector from scrap. So, camera connector has five lines. C4357 #1 - power supply, connect to a wire from C405 #6 C4357 #2 - LIN from BCM, connect to C2280F #59 C4357 #3 - video to APIM C2383A #15 C4357 #4 - video to APIM C2383A #14 C4357 #5 - ground, connect via shied to APIM C2383A #33 If there is no PDC (it happens !!! ), there one more line to add - from the famous fuse F3 to C4357 #1.

I have retrofitted the genuine camera. There are certain advantages: very good quality, precise steering lines (really do the job), zoom/wide options and last but not least it is genuine. There is just need to buy socket on alliexpress, drag one line from BCM (LIN for steering lines & zoom button to work). And, instead of adding this huge adapter, I have added just pins (pigtails) which is much easier and can be done without unmounting half of the car 🙂 See how I did it. Just remove the screen, the trim with buttons and the ventilation grill. Rest is a "gynaecologist" job.