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You can also get a trial version of Macrium Reflect software for cloning. Some of the USB enclosures will also do the cloning in hardware - i.e., you remove the drive from the system and place it in the enclosure, insert the target drive, power it up and it will do the clone without software. Sounds unlikely, but I have actually done it successfully with this: USB 3.0 Hard Drive Docking Station, WAVLINK 2 Bay HDD Docking Station for 2.5 & 3.5 inch HDD SSD SATA, HDD Caddy Support Offline Clone, 2X16TB, UASP, Tool-Free: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories Macrium Reflect (also does backups, so may be worth actually purchasing it): Home Edition (macrium.com)

Sorry Tom, in Glasgow people’s misfortune is always a source of humour. How many were fords ? 59 ?

Back to the original issue... The compressor is now showing 3 solid bars and just the 4th flashing... Maybe it has recharged properly this time. Or maybe it's going to explode and engulf the place in flames...

A very good point, I did wonder why Tesla's didn't just have a long cable 😉

They do indeed. What i was meaning that in 10 years time will you be able to buy a new battery for say a 15 year old EV. Since it seems each EV has a custom made battery, it would require a huge range of replacement vehicle batteries. Perhaps a new industry will spring up doing full battery refurbishments of the original provided of course the case and hardware is in serviceable condition.

So if you get a Tesla make sure you don't leave it with a flat battery for a couple of years 🤣

This place deals with a lot of Ecoboost engines ....

Just following up on this...... Cleaning the throttle body has seemed to help the issue on cold start with stalling so happy days. Shall put this down as SOLVED now. Think the clutch switch code was a red herring and has not reappeared since clearing.

Mine is a 2019 and have done less miles than you, irregular but mostly motorway or long journeys. Only routine maintenance so far which I would expect for a 5 year old car tbh, except a windscreen replacement and tyre puncture repair which I can't really fault Ford for. As with most people the stop/start rarely works which doesn't bother me at all and I can park it up for a couple of weeks without any problem starting. Sometimes the parking sensors sound tinny which I understand is a sign of low battery voltage but they soon get back to normal, and other things like heated screen and seats seem to work normally all the time. Overall happy with this one and will probably keep it a bit longer (but not as long as needing to change belts).

An alternative to trying to find a workable solution for cloning the drive from within the OS on the drive itself, or buying a drive cloning device, would be to get a cheap USB-to-SATA adapter such as the one @Jimpster linked to above for a few £s (which you can also find cheaply on ebay) and run Linux on your laptop off of a DVD or USB stick (aka a "live" OS). You can then simply use the built-in `dd` command to clone the raw contents of one drive to the other. See here for a simple intro to using an Ubuntu Linux live OS: https://ubuntu.com/tutorials/try-ubuntu-before-you-install. Essentially you'd download the DVD ISO, burn it to a DVD (or do the equivalent for a USB stick), reboot, and then it should load the DVD menu automatically, from which you'd select the 'try before install' option, which will then just load and run the OS from the DVD without touching the Windows installation on your HDD. If the menu does not appear then you may need to press a key on your keyboard during boot to choose to boot from the DVD, or change your BIOS/UEFI settings to allow it. (A live OS isn't just for providing a 'try before you install' experience, it's also very useful for recovery purposes or certain other tasks like disc cloning). If your new drive is larger than the old one, no matter what solution you use you'll want to use a partitioning tool afterwards to expand the cloned partition to incorporate the extra space. Edit: Oh, if your HDD uses a newer GPT based partition map, rather than the older MBR type, there's one further complication with doing a raw clone onto a larger SSD. A backup copy of the partition table is kept at the end of the disk. After doing a raw clone this backup table would have to be moved to the correct location toward the end of the new larger disk prior to then expanding the partition size. If the partition manager is not able to move it itself, this could be achieved with `dd`, but we'd need to check the location details. Edit: seems that the `gparted` tool may be able to do it, otherwise `sgdisk -e`.

Thank you

Have you found the Schematic drawings on this site for the Mk2 Focus? https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42087 This might help tracing wires & connectors. The restraints module is on page 80. There are quite detailed outlines of the seat connectors (C30,C31) on page 112 The 3 units your diagnostics have picked up (both pre-tensioners & the driver seat side airbag) don't seem to go near the fascia, they are in the floor loom, I think. A corroded connector that has been disturbed in all the work and now has some bad contacts seems the most likely culprit.

Hello, Short update after mode than 48h of not touching the Focus: I opened the car, the brake-by-wire unit started its normal tests, the Sync 3 displayed the "Turning off to preserve battery" and I connected FORscan. You can see above the measurements. 2.00 Amps current draw with ignition off seems very reasonable to me (this is without the brake system running its test) 12.2V battery voltage with 2 amps current being drawn also looks good to me. So in worst case scenario I would have expected the SOC to be 50-60% at this voltage. And SOC 31% does not look good to me. It looks like the BCM did not recalibrate the SOC. Could it be that because of the deep sleep the BCM does not wakeup to recalibrate? Next step I am planning to take are to measure the sleep current (after I receive the non contact amp meter) just to see if for some reason the current never falls under 100mA Then I shall hook up my charger Positive on battery, Negative on chassis connection point, hook up FORscan and start charging with the BCM awake until I get close to 80% SOC. Only downside with this idea is that my charger can output max 3.8Amps continuously and with the -2.0Amps current draw, it will take quite a while to have things back to normal. But I don't have any other ideas, except disconnecting the battery and hoping the SOC is recalibrated upon reconnection. Of course at that voltage the car starts really smooth (as it always did in fact). And the funny fact is that Start/Stop is working perfectly because the 48V battery is nicely charged 😄, but the AC is not turning on because of the 12V wrong SOC. Isn't this a paradox 😄. Here is the voltage and current sags as the engine cranks. Right after the BISG and DCDC push the current up to 34.0 Amps and voltage goes up to 14.8V. I ran the engine for about 20 minutes and the voltage remains steady at 14.8V while current slowly goes down to 1 Amp. Blue trace shows the SOC increase from 31% to 32%. After a few minutes of charging, the SOC reached 33%. Cheers!

I don't think that's correct. The MS pixie fairies will fix all faults on transfer, they're very good at repairing any inbuilt faults (!) and new drive will be perfect 🤣

Assuming it's a hard drive error and not a RAM issue then you might get lucky with a hardware or offline clone and running chkdsk /r afterwards to try and fix the issue. I've gotten away with this in the past. Option B is use cloning software that makes the clone whilst the OS is running using shadow copy. This performs a file-based transfer rather than the bit-based transfer that a hardware/offline clone typically does, so in theory it will skip over bad sectors. Windows 7's shadow copy is slightly less resilient than later versions, though, plus not all clone software will work happily with Windows 7 as it is getting on a bit and isn't officially supported.

The Mk4 Focus 1.0 has pretty much the same suspension as the Puma. As mentioned earlier in the thread, the Mk4 lost the independent rear suspension that all previous Focus models had. It just gets a solid rear beam like a Fiesta...but in a bigger, heavier car. Only the Vignale, ST and 2.0 diesel got IRS from 2019. The 1.5 petrol briefly had IRS from 2018-2019. 1.0 petrol and 1.5 diesel never got IRS on Mk4.

Didnt like my cordless vac, didnt seem to suck as good as cabled. You cant beat the Lidl 3 year guarantee, i staple the recipt to the destructions book, that lives with the others in a kitchen drawer

Could be another can of worms there!😀

Couldn't agree more. Yes, I must be lucky, both my cooker hob & oven still work after being installed 32 years ago! Both look mint, cleaned after every use (I'm a bit OCD LOL). Admittedly my friends on their 4th cordless Dyson are a family of 5 with pets, so it'll get quite alot of use. Next time you're in the market for an oil filled rad, try middle aisle of Lidl, I have 2, one just 3 years old, but the other is 20+, all working fine LOL

Read the last "my" comment on this thread from yesterday. If you're adamant to have a 1.0 auto, don't have a MK3

I'm not sure one piece of evidence disproves an entire theory lol. Of course some items will still work...in the same way some wetbelts won't fail. We did have a Dyson from the late 90's but replaced it with with another Henry in the early 2000's for some reason. Guess something must have broken on it but I can't remember now. I've got a modern Dyson fan that isn't particularly well built either. The fan motor isn't balanced well so rattles and grinds quite often. The whole thing is incredibly noisy. It's got ceramic heater plates which use a tonne of electricity. And because they are ceramic, they need constant airflow meaning the fan has to run at full speed when on heat mode. It does the job - as in it heats the room quickly - but I expected much more from a top brand. Dyson no longer produce corded vacs so lets hope it does see you out lol. (Unless you've got the strength and space for the massive upright ball thing). I was considering one of their battery vacs instead of the Shark one but the prices are ridiculous, and there are a lot of poor reviews about build quality and ergonomics, which again I wasn't expecting from that brand.

Funnily enough - just mentioned the following on an ecoboost cambelt thread, and noticed they also have an EV repair service. Not exactly what you meant, I think, but interesting nonetheless: https://cedarelectric.co.uk/electric-and-hybrid-battery-repairs/

I think the airbag module is under the centre console on these. The wires may have been tugged or got damp during the matrix change. Would be worth checking the module plugs just in case.

Having to anchor them to a wall socket reduces the convenience of portable devices though. I've also had plenty of mains powered devices fail due after being left for a while due to damp etc. Maybe electronics in general are rubbish... That said, I've also had issues with mechanical parts failing over time as well. Maybe we should just go back to living in caves and gathering berries.

Good Heavens No !!! Two reasons: 1, the battery won't fit in the bin. 2, you have to responsibly recycle used batteries 🤣 On a serious note, do you thing manufactures will still be making vehicle specific replacement batteries in even ten years time ?

Auto is fine, just bear in mind, it's not a conventional automatic gearbox, it's a conventional manual gearbox with a motorised clutch and gear shift mechanism. Give it time to do what it wants, it take as long to change up and down as a manual does. It also has a conventional clutch which can wear too. Keep the mechanism lubricated and adjusted regularly and keep the car battery in tip top condition

Now, that's weird. I have a BluTooth speaker for my phone when I watch F1 on it. Though for reasons I won't go into, haven't used it for 2 x years. Trying it last week, on charging it, the LED remains orange even if left for several days, when new, it use to turn green after a couple of hours to show it's cooked. I'm guessing now it really is 'cooked' LOL Battery technology is rubbish, if it had a 3 pin electrical plug, it would have fired straight up even if left alone & neglected for years!

Thanks to everyone who has made suggestions and given advice. I used to be quite involved with this kind of thing but that was more than 7 years ago, and it seems like everything technology has moved on in leaps and bounds. I very much like the idea of the 'stand alone' clone devices and at around £35 they seem worth trying. I probably will look at a 2TB SSD which will be more than sufficient for my laptop.

If you get something like an 870 EVO, you can use Samsung Magician to clone your current drive to the new SSD, and then switch them over. Most of the other manufacturer's selling retail drivers offer something similar. Samsung's is just one of the ones I've actually used.

if its a 2.5" probably will be drive you can pick up a USB lead then use it as an external to read any info needed for a couple of quid. This type of thing ---- https://www.temu.com/uk/usb-3-0-to-sata-22-pin-6-35-cm-hard-disk-drive-ssd-adapter-connector-lead-cable-g-601099517586826.html?_x_sessn_id=l4xtcklxzw&refer_page_name=bgn_verification&refer_page_id=10017_1710842394808_qxsvhpdrco&refer_page_sn=10017

Cleaning the throttle body has seemed to help the issue on cold start with stalling so happy days. Shall put this down as SOLVED now. (Need to update my other post as I've duplicated! - apologies).

Hi, the software you need is called FORScan. It is actually free but personally I'd recommend buying the licence which is only £12 which gives a few extra functions, and you get technical support from FORScan if you have any questions. There are 3 different versions available, (1) Windows version for use on a laptop (2) Android phone version £7 (3) iPhone version £7. You need the correct lead or dongle to be able to connect to your van's OBDII port. FORScan: https://www.forscan.org/download.html vLinker FS cable £33(for Windows): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP vLinker FD dongle £29(for android): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L vLinker FD+ dongle £36(for iPhone): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

You see, this is exactly why I used my local (and trusted) local repair shop to do mine LOL Years ago I tried to clone a drive from a Sky box in order not to lose all my recordings when it went faulty, very very time consuming though I did get it to work... eventually!

I've never been able to clone a operating drive that was actually in use at the time, I used to always use a separate machine and connect the drive to be copied and the new blank to that. I think using the USB enclosure it would be possible to make a copy of all data on the drive but not make a working, bootable clone of the operating system. Can you please advise me on this @alexp999 ?

It's trying to regen, let it complete

For drive cloning you can get USB enclosures for about £30 that you can plug in to copy the drive across. Have done that a few times with laptops. It's not particularly fast but it gets the job done. If you do a search on Amazon for "hard drive clone" you'll see a few.

I have now done so. Thankyou for your advice.

Try some of this 🤣

You say that you have replaced the heater matrix, so I assume that you had a leak in that area. Is it possible that the connectors got damp? If so you may have some corrosion on the connector pins uder the seat.

Isn't the '72 plate a facelift model?

Cars should always be sat on level ground but can't be helped at times, our drive is on a decline to the road, we always get water run off the car, it doesn't bother us much but what does bother me is because of the angle the bottom of the doors fill up in the very corners of the doors, to stop rust i've blasted oil into all 4 doors, allowing it to run out the drainage slots.

Thanks everyone for the quieck replies. I'll chill now.

But as Dave mentioned, i dont know how/if it would work on a factory lpg system. So better ask the mechanic in the workshop.

Yes you can swap wheels. I kept the 205s from my Mk2 Focus and fitted them to the Mk3. Be careful with the wheel nuts though. Depending on how old your Mk2 was, it may have used the old style wheel nuts which are not compatible with the new wheels and vice versa. The rim width will be stamped on the back of the alloys, measured in 'J'. They are different depending on the design of the alloy, not specific to the age of Focus, so you would need to check your wheels specifically. There are online charts that show which width of tyre can be fitted to which width of rim safely.

Confused, the Zetec S from 2010 didn't have electric seats did it?

You can swap the leather covers and foams over to the manual seats

Hi Eric, it was a 2018 MK3.5 4 cylinder. I did really enjoy the car but had the opportunity to go for something with a bit more power rather than start spending on new tyres brakes etc for its next mot. If I hadn't been offered as much for the part ex I would have probably kept it longer and spent the money on it. The acceleration on the 128ti is a whole other level plus all the extras I get with the car compared to the focus it's s a totally different driving experience.

The currents drawn by standard LEDs (rather than CANBUS friendly ones - of which more later) are tiny. Take a 20W Incandescent, the equivalent LED will be 3W. Using Ohm's law, (Power =Voltagexcurrent) your 20w will draw 1.7 Amps, the LED will draw 0.25 A. I use LED's extensively on the boat for all lighting, and have saved my batteries enormously (current draw with normal lighting on is about 1A as opposed to 6A with incandescents). When you are not running charging of any sort, these numbers are very important. Canbus friendly bulbs are different, the insertion of the resistor has to effectively mimic the draw of an incandescent, so what you save on the LED, you waste in the resistor....