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#61 137699

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 07:46 PM

There is/was someone selling a 2.5T engine on ebay.

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#62 thomas56

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 02:51 PM

Hi, New to this too but very frustrated - My S-Max is a great car and the alarm fault as described above was fixed in warranty as were the parking sensors however 9 weeks out of warranty the ABS pump has gone - started up all by itself whilst parked up and locked outside the house and almost caught fire - husband managed to get the battery disconnected in time.
Ford say £800+ for a new pump and not getting much joy from them even though its only 2 months out of warranty.

I love the car but they seem to have the same recurring problems that Ford deny. Has anyone else had this problem just out of warranty and how did they get on with Ford?

Oh and did anyone elses almost catch fire?

Cheers

Have just had my second abs pump/module fitted same as yourself pump running all the time even with keys out of car, first time was in warranty but has cost €1600 this time round. Funny dealership has never seen this fault before and I have had it twice. Car is 2007 with 66800km on the clock.

#63 S-Max clutch woes

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 01:17 PM

Help! This is our 2nd S-Max. First one (2007) had the brake problems quoted above. Eventually repaired prior to general recall, and when we asked if it should be upgraded at recal we were told "No" even though it had been repaired with the original, presumably faulty part. Result: about 4 months later we suffered one of those 'extremes of temperature' that apparently caused the fault in the first place, and the brakes failed on one of the steepest hills in London, in the snow! That was 2008, and we traded it in for another make. 2011 comes along and we decide to give the S-Max another try. This one started with a clutch smell which we were told was 'normal'. A week later we had a breakdown caused by the computer. A month or so after that the boot started popping open of its own acord as we drove along. Last month the clutch wore out. 10 months old, 8000 miles on the clock. We have both been driving 20 years and neither of us has ever needed to replace a clutch, despite owning cars for up to 8 years and about 100K miles. Ford Warranty says it's all down to our poor driving and 'wear and tear'. Now in the 3rd week of the new school year and the car has been at the garage since the last week of the holidays. No courtesy car. Latest news is that Ford have run out of the necessary parts. And they still deny there's a problem. What can we do?

#64 lfcascao

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 01:57 PM

Hi,
New to this as well.
Haven't experienced this persistent whining but know it from accelerating at high speed (motorway) - it is quite loud. Always assumed it was the turbo.
The problems I have found are:

  • Faulty indicator switch (leading to parking lights coming on of own accord when the engine is off - potential battery drainer - and motorway hazard as indicators again could come on of own accord - it is a known problem and got it replaced under warranty.
  • Other issue is how farcically difficult it is to change rear break bulbs Posted Image -has any one succeeded?? Please let me know


Hello,

since every problem I had (not so many or headhachefull ones) were asked before and solved before (thanks all for that) I could't find any solution to my recent problem, a Faulty indicator switch (leading to parking lights coming on of own accord when the engine is off).
Does anyone know how to solve it?
My S-Max is a 2008 2.0 tdci, so without warranty.

Thank you for your attention

#65 jpunter22

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 08:11 AM

Hi everyone

I have got a 2007 2.0 tdci smax and i have a few problems which I'm trying to get to the bottom of.

1. There is a constant whinning/buzzing noise inside the car. I have been told by a garage that its the electric power steering motor/pump and this is normal on these, can anyone clarify that this is the case as I'm not sure this is true.

2. When i'm driving the car I get a lurching motion at low settled revs (doing 30mph in 4th gear, in second when you are turning into junctions). There is plenty of power there when i accelerate a bit but when I let it settle again it starts doing it again. I have been told by the same garage its because its a heavy car and that I just need to be in a lower gear, which does sort the problem but I have never had in all my years driving a car that you have needed to change into first gear to turn into junctions or not been able to be in 4th gear doing 30mph. I have heard stories about the dual mass flywheels being an issue on these and was woundering if anyone can help.

3. Last one now. When i put the car into reverse the parking distances system does a continuous beep for about 10 seconds then only seems to work sometimes or eraticly. I have noticed that the rear sensors have no longer got the black coating on them and that there is a some white powder on a couple. Could this be the cause of the problem as the front ones are fine and seem to work still.

I would really appriciate some help on these issues if anyone has experenced or had similar problems, and how they were solved or if they can be sloved. Many thanks for any help in advance.

Jamie

#66 Evovrs

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 04:34 PM

HELP!!!

Im stuck,,,
I work on a 2006 smax 1,8 tdci,
The turbo was broken, I've changed it, started an everything was fine, after 5 min I revded it to maybe 2500, and it started to overrev, it went on for about 10 sec,,
Then it stalled , after this it won't start, take it back into shop and check the inter cooler, it was oil in it, drained it out and tried starting, but no luck, I checked the fuel lines and the diesel is not there,
Checked the engine oil, and it was about 1 cm over the max mark, and the oil smell like diesel,
I've heard on Volvo 1,6 a seal in the pump can give away and send diesel to the pan, but can't find anything on this with the 1,8 tdci,
Anyone experienced the same?

#67 Ste70

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Posted 10 June 2013 - 07:13 PM

New to this I have a 1.8 tdci and the engine malfution light comes on and I lose power and 1 help

#68 skinnydipper

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 04:48 PM

Hi all,

 

like most people on this forum, I've just joined because i've got a problem, but dont worry, looks like a good site, think i'll be back to see if I can pimp my ride a bit once problems are sorted.

 

Anyhow we've got an 07 s-max 2.5t, with full sports pack. It's only got 30'000 miles on clock. It's a great looking family car, absolutely rubbish on mpg, and I mean terrible, but is fun to drive, we've obut now got a problem with the steering. 

 

Story is the battery in key fob started to die, ended up replacing battery after having to open doors manually for a week, but think it was too late as when I replaced it didnt work. Then same day power steering packed up, I thought this may be something to do with alarm/immobiliser. Took down to local dealership today. They say there's swarf in power steering fluid, will have to change pump and steering rack at a cost of £1750.

 

Now 30,000 miles isnt a lot, and £1750 is a lot of money, is this a common problem, 



#69 137699

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 08:06 AM

Yes it's a common problem - and that fix is the only option I'm afraid.

 

As a fellow 2.5T owner you should be aware of the 2 other common issues:

- Boost Control Solenoids packing up and causing inconsistent boost & poor fuel economy (you should expect to get 25mpg if all's ok), though quite a cheap fix at about £100 but seems to need doing every 20,000 miles or so.

- Blocked oil breather causing a vaccuum which announces itself as a whistling sound on idle and a little later the EML comes on on the dash - quite a big job at around £600 and needs doing every 45,000 miles or so.

 

Have you looked into Bluefin for your S-max? It is a remap option whcih pumps the power output from 220hp to 260hp -but that's not necessarily the reason to do it.... It also increases fuel economy quite considerably. Before bluefin we were averaging 24mpg, in the 3 years since doing this we're gettig 29mpg. The £360 it cost for the DIY kit, it's paid for itself about 6x over in fuel savings.

 

The extra power comes in handy on overtakes also, but at low speed & cruising you would never know it's been remapped.



#70 Andrew Cracknell

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 12:57 AM

Hello - Wanted to list the problems I have experienced with the S-MAX 2.0 TDCi Titanium 07 plate now with 78k on the clock.

 

  1. Boot not opening - catch appeared to not release (seems to be fixed now, can't recall what I did to solve it)
  2. Error code P2263 (ghost code). When exceeding 75mph, Engine Fault light comes on, rev's drop and forced to park up. If you restart the engine, the code disappears and code readers won't find the code. Only if you have a code reader plugged in and reproduce the fault, can you get the code.
  3. Error code P2263 continued..- Seems to be a mine field of options, but all pointing toward the Turbo. Initial analysis from road side assistance recommended cleaning EGR valve but they were not able to get the error code so I think they were guessing a bit.
  4. Drivers side heated wind screen not operating - Yet to try swapping fuses over to do quick check, then hoping to have a deeper look this weekend.
  5. Handbrake button and button caps wore out (spray on chrome coating teared away) - Replace the hand brake buttons and handle with a replacement from ebay.
  6. Exhaust rear box and centre pipe - have a hole in it now so looking to replace that
  7. Tyre wear - heard others commenting on this, does seem to be a bit hungry here (we have the 18" large alloys on). Due a new front set now.
  8. Bonnet lever stopped working but thankfully stopped working after I had opened the bonnet. Upon closing the bonnet it would not catch - Took it to garage and they lubricated the wires and fixed that for free (no charge - regular customer!)
  9. Stop Lamp Fault light upon engine start - Eventually realised it was the stop light strip on the top of the boot that failed. Replaced it and warning light gone away.
  10. Catch on the centre dashboard storage area has failed so it no longer springs open when the button is pushed - haven't got round to fixing that yet.

I really like the look of this MPV but the daunting Error code P2263 is going to hurt the pocket. Replacement turbo unit is looking at £1500 but refurbed unit from ebay is looking like £365 (assuming it's the right one / will need to check). Very tempted to ask my local garage to replace this. I've read somewhere that average life of a turbo is 75k so timing is about right, but would be comforting not to spend labour time, effort and cost to prove/disprove it's a general fault and not just a clean and lubrication needed or something.



#71 fitzynat

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 01:31 AM

 Hi

 

I was wondering if anyone had solved the issue of a Faulty indicator switch (leading to parking lights coming on of own accord when the engine is off)?

 

My 58plate S-Max 2.3 Titanium has recently started doing this and i have no idea where to start. I have searched the web but cant find any solutions or causes... Any help would be great

 

 

Hello,

since every problem I had (not so many or headhachefull ones) were asked before and solved before (thanks all for that) I could't find any solution to my recent problem, a Faulty indicator switch (leading to parking lights coming on of own accord when the engine is off).
Does anyone know how to solve it?
My S-Max is a 2008 2.0 tdci, so without warranty.

Thank you for your attention



#72 Wardys

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Posted 23 May 2014 - 03:18 PM

Hi,

I took my S-max to a garage today because it is losing coolant but no visible leak. They said they did a compression test and the coolant is leaking inside the timing belt cover so it will be the water pump. He said it could last 6 month or fail just up the road and destroy the timing belt and the engine. I asked if it could be a gasket and he said no, a gasket wouldn't leak on a car that new (it's a 08). I am not convinced it needs a new water pump but could someone please advise me what I should do. I might be wrong but I feel as though they are trying to rip me off.

Thanks,

Paul



#73 137699

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 08:56 AM

It needs a new water pump. They leak to indicate they're nearing end of life as you certainly don't want one seizing.

 

Get the timing belt changed at the same time.



#74 robf123

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 03:32 PM

Hi, I have a couple of questions/issues about tyres and pressure sensors.

 

I recently bought a used s-max 59 plate 2.0 diesel titanium. 28k miles. 

 

1) The tyre pressure sensor alert keeps prompting on the dashboard screen.  It's warning of sensor malfunction and warning about high/low pressure. I check the pressures were all fine. Although one of the sensors seems to be missing - that explains the malfunction (no signal from that tyre) but doesn't explain the incorrect warnings about pressure.

 

2) It has expensive run flat tyres all around - and no spare.  But I guess that's normal for this year and trim, right?  (Reason I ask is that Kwik fit told me that was wrong and to take it back to the dealer to sort the tyres.)

 

Anyone else has problems with tyres and pressure sensors?   

 

Thanks

Rob

 

 



#75 jeebowhite

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 04:11 PM

Hi Rob,

 

The issue sounds like the reason for the faulty readings is as you say - a missing sensor. Because the module isnt getting a complete picture, the other three may be correct, but until it gets the info from the fourth sensor, it wont give you a proper reading.

 

I dont believe that the run flat are standard so it sounds like you got a used motor with an owner who paid through the nose for them! Kwik Fit (whilst they know not much about everything) may be referring to the fact that you have either the wrong size wheel, and wrong size tyre (so your speedo could be out) or you may have been given a larger or thinner width of tyre than is standard.

 

go to black circles website, pop your reg in, choose the wheel size and it will tell you sizes you can have, then check the marking on the side of the tyre which gives you the tyre size and profile. This will then tell you if it differs to what black circles suggest you may have the wrong size tyre, not necessarily a big problem (as you can get a few mms difference and you probably wont have any issues.



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