Is replacing a handbrake cable a very difficult job ? The handbrake cable on my car needs replacing

[Fastlife91]

I left my car with a mechanic friend to bleed the air out of the fuel line, when I returned to collect my car he'd also adjusted the handbrake cable ( I didn't ask him too) and he added that on to the bill.

The following day the handbrake cable became loose, and now it is only holding the car on about 6 - 7  clicks. I mentioned it to my friend (the same guy who adjusted it previously ) and he said maybe the cable needs replacing.

my car is a 2006 ford focus sport 1.8 tdci and have brake discs front and back.

I'd rather have a go at replacing the handbrake cable myself, is it very difficult to do ? 

 

thanks

[Joss max]

Search you tube for how to videos

[GaryPL]

I'd make your 'friend' sort it out for free. Sounds like he buggered it up.

[dezwez]

give it a go just follow the old one

[Tdci-Peter]

4 hours ago, Fastlife91 said:

I'd rather have a go at replacing the handbrake cable myself, is it very difficult to do ?

Needs a vehicle lift or pit really. It is above the heat shield, & the exhaust probably needs to be removed. I had one look at it on mine, and decided to give it a really good greasing instead.

6-7 clicks does not sound too bad, may just need re-adjusting. And that is very easy.

[Fastlife91]

10 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Needs a vehicle lift or pit really. It is above the heat shield, & the exhaust probably needs to be removed. I had one look at it on mine, and decided to give it a really good greasing instead.

6-7 clicks does not sound too bad, may just need re-adjusting. And that is very easy.

how do I re-adjust the handbrake cable please ?

 

thank you very much in advance

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, Fastlife91 said:

how do I re-adjust the handbrake cable please ?

I was just going to say it is in Haynes or on YouTube, but the description in Haynes is not very good, and I could not find it on the web. So I will try to give an outline here. Haynes is much condemned for being incomplete and sometimes in-accurate these days, but despite its limitations, it is a goldmine of useful info, well worth the money!

Focus Mk2 Handbrake Adjustment, inspection & greasing.

Support the rear end on axle stands & remove both rear wheels.

Inside the car, lever up the gaiter trim around the handbrake lever. It is just clipped in. Move it up the lever as far as possible. This should expose the adjustment nut. See 22.4 in the Haynes page below.

It may be possible to loosen the locknut while holding the cable adjustment nut with pliers. However if it is tight, the center console will have to be lifted in order to get an open ended spanner on it.

To lift the center console, first remove the side panels (2 screws each side, under the round covers), Then there are 4 screws, 2 under the gear shift gaiter trim, 2 under a cover at the back of the console. The console does not need to be removed, just lifted to get a spanner in. In fact, I don't think it can be removed unless the adjustment is fully released first.

If the console has armrests, it is a little more complex, but similar. If the console is removed, which is useful to give it a really good clean, put it back over the handbrake lever before doing the adjustment. I did not do this, and had to release the adjustment to get it back on!

Release the adjustment enough so the cable is slack. Insert 0.7mm (28 thou) feeler gauges in both calipers in the position in fig 22.11, so the handbrake caliper levers are held just off their end stops. Ensure handbrake lever is fully released (in its lowest position).

Tighten the adjustment nut until one (or both) of the gauges is an easy sliding fit (cable is taking all the strain). Tighten the locknut, re-check the feeler gauges, and re-adjust if needed.

Fully apply & release the handbrake a few times, release and recheck the gaps. The gap is not hyper critical, it just ensures all the cable slack is taken up, but the caliper lever still has almost full travel.

Check brake operation: Disks will not turn when applied, and free off when released. It may take a few turns of the disk before it moves easily, to push the caliper piston back.

Re-check the tightness of the locknut, and refit everything.

Note: This adjustment is only for the cables. The calipers have an internal adjustment mechanism to allow for pad wear. This mechanism is quite complex, and if it is faulty, replacement calipers may be the only option.

While the adjustment is slack, it is an opportunity to grease & check the cables & caliper. The circular springs on the calipers can be removed with suitable bull nose pliers, a bit tricky but they will come. They are actually easier to get back on than off!

Then the cables can be released from the levers, and pulled right out of the caliper. Check the levers move smoothly, and that even just hand pressure on the lever gives appreciable braking effect on the disk. They should spring back easily, there is an internal spring as well as the external one. (At least, that is so on my calipers.)

If the cables look dry & dirty, and feel stiff to move, they can be greased. Pry back the little rubber seal at the outer cable end, slide it to the end of the inner. Pull the inner fully out (the opposing wheel inner cable will retract). Grease the cable, and push fully in, using the rubber seal as a sort of piston. Pull fully in & out a few times. Repeat this (many times!) until the cable feels smooth, and repeat on the other side.

Note: There is a slight risk that the cables may disconnect from the central coupling above the exhaust heat shield while doing this. Set the adjustment nut to about the normal (adjusted) position before pushing the cables right in. It did not happen to me despite extensive push-pull operations. If the cables are stiff enough to reduce handbrake efficiency, the alternative to greasing is replacement. Then access to this coupling will be needed anyway, so there is not much to lose, really.

Re-assemble in reverse order. Make sure the rubber seal is correctly located. Check the cable outers go fully home in the caliper, and that the cable ends locate properly in the levers. Give the spring a good wiggle after installation (with pliers), to ensure is it fully located.

 

 

[iantt]

wont be the cables thats the issue , but one of the calipers

[iantt]

and peter, thats a comprehensive reply!! lol

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, iantt said:

and peter, thats a comprehensive reply!! lol

I hope it is reasonably accurate! It is one of those little diy jobs that should be easy, but there a a few tricks to catch out the unwary (like me!).

I did mention checking the calipers. If the cables are ok, then I guess it has to be caliper. But worth double checking cables first, maybe.

I did this on my car because I got a handbrake efficiency advisory a couple of years ago, and when put to the test (holding a heavily loaded trailer on a 1 in 6 hill!), it only just held. I was definitely losing quite a bit of braking force in the dry, dirty cables.

 

[wilto]

On 10/09/2016 at 5:15 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

I hope it is reasonably accurate! It is one of those little diy jobs that should be easy, but there a a few tricks to catch out the unwary (like me!).

I did mention checking the calipers. If the cables are ok, then I guess it has to be caliper. But worth double checking cables first, maybe.

I did this on my car because I got a handbrake efficiency advisory a couple of years ago, and when put to the test (holding a heavily loaded trailer on a 1 in 6 hill!), it only just held. I was definitely losing quite a bit of braking force in the dry, dirty cables.

 

Hi Peter, just done a rear disc conversion on my focus, used nearly new calipers and pads all other part were new.

My question is, how many clicks should I expect to have when the handbrake is properly adjusted, I didn't use the method above, as I didn't know it, I currently have very little hold on a slight hill and have about 10 clicks of travel on the lever, my previous drums only had 4 click on I held like glue.

Thanks in advance, Chris.

[Tdci-Peter]

59 minutes ago, wilto said:

I currently have very little hold on a slight hill and have about 10 clicks of travel on the lever,

Mr Haynes is silent on the subject. My guess is about 6 to 8 clicks.

Applying hand pressure to the caliper handbrake lever (with spring and cable removed) gave quite a decent holding force on the brake on my car, I could not turn the wheel hub with the other hand. With the help of an assistant, the operation of each caliper can be tested like that, they should be similar, and feel smooth in operation. A wheel brace or similar tool could be used to try to turn the wheel hub. Also the amount of movement should be similar on both levers.

Larger movement can be expected if the brakes are not bedded in.

Sticking pistons, sticking caliper guide pins, and roughness or steps in the caliper bracket where the pads slide against it, will all reduce handbrake efficiency. They will also reduce foot-brake efficiency, but being at the back, this will not be very noticeable when driving.

Dirt and water entering the handbrake cables will reduce handbrake efficiency.

Rough or excess movement in one caliper handbrake lever would indicate a worn or faulty caliper. Also any continuing lever movement with a steady applied force, would suggest the adjuster in the caliper is slipping.

 

[wilto]

Cheers Peter, I'm going to have to get them adjusted using the feeler gauge method 👍