On 10/7/2019 at 6:29 PM, Tommo17 said:

No mate you can’t see it without taking the carpet trim off. 
 

easier way to tell is go take a look under your rear bumper on drivers side you will see a plug 

 

if 2 plugs like in the picture one is for BLind spot (Blis) and other for sensors. 

I managed to get out and look earlier, I don’t have any wires or plugs there at all so I guess it would be a huge job to retrofit. 

Mine is. 2017 STline nav

If you were prepared to run cables from one end of the car to the other for a camera then this is really not very different. It's just more wires.

If you were to do it from nothing, I'd get a complete floor loom to strip for pins and plugs though.

Well the front sensors are 29dB and the outer ones 36dB so I’m guessing it’s going to make a difference. I won’t risk it and get the ones you have. After all if the thing wants to park it’s self. Best have the correct sensors 

you might get to it before me so if you can take some pics of how you’ve done it. And I will if I get round to it any time soon. 
 

split conduit sounds like a good idea and I’ve not looked at the engine side to see if it looks better from that end. 

Running the wires and sorting the rear of the car doesn’t phase me, I’m confident with that process. 

Its when I got to the front end of the car that’s I would start to worry, I don’t know if I would need to get a new module or where I would plug the new loom into. It’s that bit of the wiring and modules that scare me.

If it was simply a case of fitting the sensors and plugging that into a home made loom that goes back to front and then just plugs into an existing socket at the front then I would be ok.

im guessing there would be much more to it than that though.

1 hour ago, Jonro2009 said:

I managed to get out and look earlier, I don’t have any wires or plugs there at all so I guess it would be a huge job to retrofit. 

Mine is. 2017 STline nav

Surprised at that. Not that big of a job. Had my cables into position in about 20 mins. I did have the full boot stripped out to start with to find my leak though. 
 

as Phil said. Could pick up a floor harness for less than £100 and fit the full park assist feature for another £150 so in used parts. I’ve had to buy new from ford some so it’s made it more expensive than I would of liked. 

8 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

Running the wires and sorting the rear of the car doesn’t phase me, I’m confident with that process. 

Its when I got to the front end of the car that’s I would start to worry, I don’t know if I would need to get a new module or where I would plug the new loom into. It’s that bit of the wiring and modules that scare me.

If it was simply a case of fitting the sensors and plugging that into a home made loom that goes back to front and then just plugs into an existing socket at the front then I would be ok.

im guessing there would be much more to it than that though.

In fact would be more hassle than it’s worth. Would need to run a supply from the fuse box in the rear. Would need to lift the carpet from the floor in the back. 

2 minutes ago, Tommo17 said:

In fact would be more hassle than it’s worth. Would need to run a supply from the fuse box in the rear. Would need to lift the carpet from the floor in the back. 

That’s what I was afraid of, just pipe dreams!

53 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

That’s what I was afraid of, just pipe dreams!

You could come out the fuse box and straight out the bottom of the car there is a grommet underneath just like on the other side. And tie it to the sensor loom and up the other side. Rest will be easy enough. No carpets to remove just some trim 

You could come out the fuse box and straight out the bottom of the car there is a grommet underneath just like on the other side. And tie it to the sensor loom and up the other side. Rest will be easy enough. No carpets to remove just some trim 

Ok, so that sounds like something I could do.
Essentially I would need to run power from the fuse box to the rear of the car, buy the sensors and loom for the rear. Then make my own loom to go from the sensor loom back to the front of the car, is that right?

How\where wouldn't connect to the fuse box, as there may not be power in the correct location in the box - I take it you mean the fuse box in the foot well?

Where would I then connect my home made loom to?

Sorry for the questions but if I can get those right in my head then I can figure out if I have the ability to do it. I don't mean to derail your thread so happy to create a new one if that is better, I realise I am a complete novice and some of the tech talk you guys have used goes way over my head.



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It might be best for me to wait until you guys finish your own projects before I ask you to dumb things down for me lol

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Lol I thought you had "zero inclination" to do this mod 🙂

infectious isn't it!

Yes it's be a good idea to properly research this first but my thinking is you'd need an appropriate parking module, wiring and sensors.

The parking module has to communicate with the BCM, so there's a canbus connection required there, that is what your floor loom would be useful for as that's the connection with the front of the car. I've not researched what wiring would need to go exactly to what pins in this scenario, but it would be easy enough to work out, given the wiring diagrams.

If you just wanted rear 4, then any rear loom for MK3 or 3.5 will do as far as I am aware, but does need to match your cars spec with regards to keyless entry. If you wanted rear 6 for park assist, you'd need the 3.5 loom for 6 sensors. I happen to have a brand new one of these for keyless which I erroneously bought and would be very cheap for FFOC users, at least compared to new 😉

In all cases, you would need a 3.5 module, either "Rear Parking Assist" for just rear sensors, or "Active Park Assist" for the whole shebang.

It's reckoned that a MK3 module won't communicate correctly with the 3.5 BCM and may throw faults.

Right so I've run my wiring, cut holes in the bumper and fitted my sensors! All seems pretty good, except I get a solid tone now whenever the sensors are active. Also I don't get visual info on the screen so there's still some programming to do. I changed the bit Bannko advised in the APIM as built bit that hasn't resolved it yet.

28 minutes ago, Phil21185 said:

Right so I've run my wiring, cut holes in the bumper and fitted my sensors! All seems pretty good, except I get a solid tone now whenever the sensors are active. Also I don't get visual info on the screen so there's still some programming to do. I changed the bit Bannko advised in the APIM as built bit that hasn't resolved it yet.

Oh no!!! Did you have the visual with just rear ? 
 

id of tested it before drilling the bumper. What size cutter did u use. I can’t find the one I used for the rear. On another note got my 2 sensors. With brackets today for £35. Annoyed I sprayed the ones from ford or they would be getting sent back. 
 

how’d you get on with the grommet ?

20 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

Ok, so that sounds like something I could do.
Essentially I would need to run power from the fuse box to the rear of the car, buy the sensors and loom for the rear. Then make my own loom to go from the sensor loom back to the front of the car, is that right?

How\where wouldn't connect to the fuse box, as there may not be power in the correct location in the box - I take it you mean the fuse box in the foot well?

Where would I then connect my home made loom to?

Sorry for the questions but if I can get those right in my head then I can figure out if I have the ability to do it. I don't mean to derail your thread so happy to create a new one if that is better, I realise I am a complete novice and some of the tech talk you guys have used goes way over my head.



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No rear fuse box. Check fuse 30 bottom left 5a fuse

40 minutes ago, Tommo17 said:

Oh no!!! Did you have the visual with just rear ? 
 

id of tested it before drilling the bumper. What size cutter did u use. I can’t find the one I used for the rear. On another note got my 2 sensors. With brackets today for £35. Annoyed I sprayed the ones from ford or they would be getting sent back. 
 

how’d you get on with the grommet ?

Yeah I did before. I'm not sure if it's just an adjustment to the as built, a duff sensor or what at this stage. Other thing is, that if I put the car in reverse, the same thing happens, but the tone doesn't stop after shifting back out of reverse. I have to press the front sensor button to turn it off.

I did test it, but I also had time constraints for putting the car back together, so I thought that I will eventually sort it one way or another, I might as well remove the necessity for having the bumper off again and get them fitted. The outer SAPP ones are a really weird fitment to the bumper but it is correct. Make sure you put the correct one in the correct side!

I didn't cut, I used a Dremel with a stone grinding bit, conical at the tip then a cylindrical shank and basically melted the holes to the right shape. Worked very well.

I started off with good intentions - pictures of each stage, but by the end it was ***** down with rain so had to just get it done. Any guide I produce for this may have to just be descriptive rather than visual!

Grommet was a *****. I did manage to feed through in the end. I pushed the grommet out from the inside of the car, undid the tape inside and out, taped my loom to the end of an electrical screwdriver and weedled it through.

In the process I lost a lot of skin off my arms due to the fact that the engine was still hot and I had to leave the cover on, leaving very little space.  If you can take the engine cover off, do so. Also if you don't have a problem piercing the grommet and sealing it afterward, I recommend that too rather than struggling. It will save a LOT of time.

Turns out the pins I stole from the inside loom were perfect (assuming my current problems are nothing to do with connectivity, though I'm getting no LOS errors on any front sensors like I was before), just a case of putting them into the bumper plug. I'll write up a bit more about that later. Suffice to say that if you're splicing pins on, leave plenty of tail between pin and splice to feed into the plug. 

You got a decent deal there! You'll be able to sell your spares no problem.  If for whatever reason I can't get it working, I'll just swap the modules back and reprogram the BCM to ignore the front sensors.

It is entirely possible that I've got one wire in the wrong place, which is sending a constant high voltage back down the sensor wire. Unfortunately removal of a sensor disables the system with a 'service now' fault.

I was initially thinking duff sensor. But with you saying it’s a constant tone. I did think maybe crossed wire or lose connection. 
 

in one of them files I sent you. It has the testing procedure try have a look and see what it says for constant tone 

All have you tried just activating the front only and not SAPA maybe be able to rule a fault on them 2 out if still doing it. Or maybe with not having the ABS sensors ? 

That's another thing that it may be not having ABS sensors. I can't see that throwing up a fault just with the sensors on though. Perhaps if I pushed the auto park button. Not had the car running and not had enough time to test properly yet. 

It may just be that BCM or APIM changes need an ignition or locking cycle to take effect. Some of them do, I've noticed...

Reading around it sounds like duff sensor and I suspect the one that didn't come with a bracket or o ring. There was some damage and paint transfer on it so I'm thinking the car they came from took some damage to that corner. 

Apparently working sensors click if you listen closely. That's tomorrow's job then!

I still got the whole loom and sensors for £55 so I really cant complain. 

Hopefully I should be able to sell the parts I've replaced to almost break even when all done.

Just been out to the car to check that all the sensors are clicking and all seems fine!

Still no visual, but that is surely a case of as built tickling.

Only thing is that the front sensors come on when in reverse, but stay on after coming out of reverse. Is this normal?

I've still not driven it yet, so maybe they go off after you start driving forwards..?

Maybe like the camera delay, stay on till you reach 5mph. 
 

yes they give of a noise when working. You using forscan or focccuss to make the changes ?  

Used to use Focccus but was a bit flaky. Since discovered Forscan does everything Focccus does and more. 

Would like ucds though 🙂

just got to figure out the APIM and fit some abs sensors 🙂

I've just reread my post before last about listening to the sensors. 

What I meant is that everything is working properly now. I realise that wasn't very clear in what I said!

 

As far as I remember the Mk5 Mondeo front sensors will sound at speeds below about 5mph. They would sound in traffic jams etc so you may need to take a quick drive and see how they behave.

Is there any particular Forscan long coding you are missing? I have access to a some good resources, I know if you enable the camera then you need to use a different value if you want the park pilot graphic to show on the screen.

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There is a button on the dash to turn on the front sensors at will, or the same button lights up when you put the car in reverse. At the moment, that button stays lit after I shift back in to neutral, but I've not tested them with the car actually running or moving yet, so they may go off on their own.

I'm not sure which bit needs setting, Bannkos guide suggests a particular setting which doesn't seem to correlate with PDC.

The f150 forums has some incomplete APIM information, but there is reference to the PDC architecture (electric) which may be relevant. I think the euro MK3 cars need to be set to c1cma not CGEA.

I'll have a tinker when I next have some time and see if I can work it out...

Turns out that they go off on their own over 5-10mph. Pressing the button at higher than this speed does nothing.

I notice from the pictures on the Sync 2 upgrade thread that Luke has front sensors and the auto park button, and has successfully upgraded to sync 3. I still have his as built data from sorting another problem so I will give that a try.

@Tommo17 @Jonro2009 got it.

APIM asbuilt - 7D0-04-02 xxxX xx.

'X' needs to be 3.