New member, ongoing problem!

[JCSwarbrick]

Hi there,

 

I had a 56 plate Focus 1.8 Duratec.

 

The car has had an erratic idling problem, coupled with an extremely high idle (unless the clutch is pushed down) it revs up around the 2000 mark.

 

If you blip the throttle it will shoot up to 4-4500 for a few seconds and then drop back town to 2000.

 

It would also occasionally, more frequently since the temp. dropped, mostly at low revs drop into speed limited mode and the EML would come on, this could be rectified by off/on the car but the light would stay on.

 

I had it looked at, there was a couple of vacuum hoses split, so these have been replaced, no cure.

 

I took the throttle body off, gave it a good clean, connected it back up. It's now permanently in Speed Limited Mode, with the additional message of Engine Systems Fault.

 

A friend of my Wife has plugged it into an OBD2 reader, it has the fault codes P2110 : Throttle Actuator control system - forced limited rpm and P2111 : Throttle Actuator Control System -stuck upen. I've been searching forums for days on end but haven't found anything the same, and there doesnt seem to be one solution, there's a wide variety. 

 

Could something have happened upon refitting the throttle body to make the condition worsen, and can i rectify this? 

 

Thank you in advance.

 

Jake

[Tdci-Peter]

On 2/3/2019 at 12:10 PM, JCSwarbrick said:

it has the fault codes P2110 : Throttle Actuator control system - forced limited rpm and P2111 : Throttle Actuator Control System -stuck open.

You could just replace the throttle body and actuator unit, which might be expensive unless you can get a decent used one.

But I would want to do some electrical testing first. It could be a wiring or connector problem, or a curable mechanical problem like a wear step. These units look like a simple 12v electric motor, with a position feedback pot. The pot is actually a dual unit, with common supply (TPSVREF) and return (TPSRTN), and two separate outputs (TPSI-P2 & TPSI-P1). So it is relatively easy to test with a meter, a power supply,  and a few suitable test leads. I know not everyone has this stuff, but any electrical/electronic repair place should be able to do it.

Wiring info for the unit (hope it matches!) below: