Hi,

so this car has been the bane of my life recently, it started with a parasitic drain on the battery overnight, I had the AA come out and help start it, he advised that it needed a new battery and he tested some fuses, he said to take the stop start fuse out and after installing the new battery and taking the fuse out it was fine.

 

Then a few weeks later had a massive leak in the boot, water was just above the spare wheel compartment, had a quick search in the forums found that the boxes under the rear bumper had blocked up, took the whole back bumper off drained all fluid and cleaned out and put back together.

 

Now I’m assuming that water has managed to get elsewhere, the instrument cluster is flicking on and off, when it goes off the radio goes off the blowers. It makes a clunking noise, when you try to change the direction of the blowers they makes clicking noises.

I took it to a local garage who said he thought it was the instrument cluster solder, so he took it apart and said that he couldn’t see any evidence of it being that, I won’t take it back as he broke the plastic surrounding the speedometer.

 

I’m at my wits end with this please does anyone have any suggestions, I have attached screenshots of what it does to help if my explanation isn’t clear.

trying to upload a video when I can work it out 😅

19 minutes ago, pabolo58 said:

he said to take the stop start fuse out and after installing the new battery and taking the fuse out it was fine.

I've noticed multiple threads discussing stop/start problems, though I've not paid enough attention to advise you at this point. I'm sure someone who knows better will come along soon, or you could research those other discussions if you want to dig into that more.

21 minutes ago, pabolo58 said:

Then a few weeks later had a massive leak in the boot, water was just above the spare wheel compartment, had a quick search in the forums found that the boxes under the rear bumper had blocked up, took the whole back bumper off drained all fluid and cleaned out and put back together.

Indeed the Mk3 has a common leak in the location you're describing, which is fixed by putting silicone sealant around the vents.

23 minutes ago, pabolo58 said:

I took it to a local garage who said he thought it was the instrument cluster solder, so he took it apart and said that he couldn’t see any evidence of it being that

The IC solder issue is common to the Mk2/2.5 and some/all other models built around the same time. This is probably what he was thinking of. To the best of my knowledge this issue does not affect the Mk3 onwards at all. It is commonly believed that Ford switched back to leaded solder or otherwise addressed the cause of the cracking when they started producing components for the new Mk3.

27 minutes ago, pabolo58 said:

I won’t take it back as he broke the plastic surrounding the speedometer

😢

31 minutes ago, pabolo58 said:

Now I’m assuming that water has managed to get elsewhere

I expect from those symptoms you might well be right.

If so then it's a bit dodgy to keep using it or even have the battery remaining connected as a short circuit could potentially fry something expensive. However it's perhaps a bit late to be saying that now and hopefully any damage is minor and won't get any worse.

I'd advise that you get an inspection done of any wiring that could have come into contact with the water that came in, in the boot area and all the way up to the front, if indeed it did make it up there. The BCM (passenger fusebox) is also a common place for water to get to causing electrical issues so have that checked as well. Hopefully any damage is just limited to some corroded wiring pins that can just be cleaned up.

A Focus Mk3 2014 model is too late to have the infamous problem of the solder joints on the instrument cluster so I think we can say that is not the cause of the problems.

Very interested that the AA guy said to remove the Stop/Start fuse,  Can I ask which fuse number that was ?

Most probable cause is water ingress to the Body Control Module (BCM) which is part of the passenger compartment fusebox.

4 hours ago, rd457 said:

Indeed the Mk3 has a common leak in the location you're describing, which is fixed by putting silicone sealant around the vents.

I'd advise that you get an inspection done of any wiring that could have come into contact with the water that came in, in the boot area and all the way up to the front, if indeed it did make it up there. The BCM (passenger fusebox) is also a common place for water to get to causing electrical issues so have that checked as well. Hopefully any damage is just limited to some corroded wiring pins that can just be cleaned up.

Thanks for your reply rd457, 

the silicone around the vents has indeed been done now.

I have inspected all the wires/ fuses visually in the boot and also the passenger footwell.

The boot is all clear and nothing visible, the fuses in the passé footwell had visible corrosion on the pins, I have taken all fuses out today, sprayed the fuse box with wd40 and cleaned/ replaced fuses, when starting the car after they began flicker on and off but after about 40 minutes they have all remained on for now 🤞

2 hours ago, unofix said:

A Focus Mk3 2014 model is too late to have the infamous problem of the solder joints on the instrument cluster so I think we can say that is not the cause of the problems.

Very interested that the AA guy said to remove the Stop/Start fuse,  Can I ask which fuse number that was ?

Most probable cause is water ingress to the Body Control Module (BCM) which is part of the passenger compartment fusebox.

It was the auto electrician that said he’d check it, but after broken plastic here, there and everywhere I’m not sure he was that knowledgeable anyway!

 

The AA guy said they are common for stop/start issues and also the fuse box passenger side. I will check which fuse it is.

it’s a 30amp from under the bonnet, he put a voltage meter on it whilst standing and it was drawing 10amp from the battery.

so he removed the fuse and it was fine after that 🤣

I have suspicions it’s gone down to the BCM, What would you recommend to confirm this please?

The only way to fully check and sort out problems with the BCM is to fully remove it. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start working on the plugs and sockets.

Take many, many photos of all the positions of the fuses before you pull them out, it's easy to get them mixed up.

The inside of the BCM may have started to corrode and will need to be cleaned or even possibly replaced. They are programmed so your software will need reloaded.

What fuse did the AA take out for Stop/Start ?

10 minutes ago, unofix said:

The only way to fully check and sort out problems with the BCM is to fully remove it. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start working on the plugs and sockets.

Take many, many photos of all the positions of the fuses before you pull them out, it's easy to get them mixed up.

The inside of the BCM may have started to corrode and will need to be cleaned or even possibly replaced. They are programmed so your software will need reloaded.

What fuse did the AA take out for Stop/Start ?

I think I may have to do the removal, I am terrible at continuously taking photos just to ensure I don’t miss something!

Will I need to take it  to a garage to have the software reloaded? Or something that can be done at home?

The AA guy took out fuse 11 from the engine fuse bay, it was a 30amp.

If the BCM needs replaced then you will need to find one with the same part number. Then you can use a Laptop with windows and the software FORScan. You will need a vLinker FS cable and you will be able to reload the "AsBuit" data direct from Ford.

5 minutes ago, unofix said:

If the BCM needs replaced then you will need to find one with the same part number. Then you can use a Laptop with windows and the software FORScan. You will need a vLinker FS cable and you will be able to reload the "AsBuit" data direct from Ford.

Ok, so I need to find the part number and get looking, I have a laptop with windows, I will download FORscan.

I will go looking for a vLinker FS cable 🙈 

When logging into Ford it states there is an update but won’t let me do it, apparently it has to go directly to Ford themselves 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

3 minutes ago, unofix said:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

Just purchased thank you 😊 

I would suggest that you register and login to the FORScan forum for help and advice on using the programme.

https://forscan.org/forum/ucp.php?mode=login

4 minutes ago, unofix said:

I would suggest that you register and login to the FORScan forum for help and advice on using the programme.

https://forscan.org/forum/ucp.php?mode=login

I will do that now, thank you

On 3/12/2023 at 8:13 PM, unofix said:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

Will this one work with my Focus Zetec Mk3.5 TDCi 2017? Looking to programmed a cruise control steering wheel but need to cable. Heard a lot of those cables are problematic?

You won't have any problems using the vLinker FS cable:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

 

The problems only happen when using the poor quality ELM327(modified) leads that can be found on the likes of eBay for £10.

Thanks! So it would be simple plug and play? Or is there anything cable software specific I need to do before plugging in to run Forscan? Amazon page mentions something about settings must do (I've attached image below).

Depends on which version of Windows you are running but it mostly just sets itself up. Provided you have Wifi connection it may download a driver for the software or lead but instructions are included and its quite straight forward.

Thanks, have placed an order. When hooking up and doing changes do I need to disconnect vehicle battery. I know you do this when removing the steering wheel but in general is this required when running Forscan? (Sorry for the extra questions)

15 minutes ago, allsomatt said:

When hooking up and doing changes do I need to disconnect vehicle battery

If you mean disconnecting the battery when doing physical work on the car then it's always a good idea.

When using FORScan the car battery needs to be FULLY charged and leave it connected to the battery charger while doing any programming work. The last thing you want is the car shutting down in the middle of programming due to a low battery voltage.

Remember to ALWAYS back up and save all module data BEFORE making any changes just encase something goes wrong.

Got this guide on upgrading and installing Cruise Control on a Mk3.5 Focus. Does this look like a good guide to follow when I do the install? Thanks again.

Ford Focus Mk3.5 Face Lift Cruise Control Enable w.Cruise Steering.pdf

Update....

 

Found the problem, it was the BCM, very surprised that it has not been on fire!!!!

 

Now need to locate/get another BCM and hope that the damage hasn't gone any further 😔 

 

I have completed a backup via forscan so please keep your fingers crossed for me🙈

10 minutes ago, pabolo58 said:

Found the problem, it was the BCM,

Excellent news, though sadly I'm not surprised in the least. I see in the photo the traces of water on the BCM.

On 3/12/2023 at 5:43 PM, unofix said:

Most probable cause is water ingress to the Body Control Module (BCM) which is part of the passenger compartment fusebox.

Good luck with finding a suitable replacement. Remember it will need to be programmed.

8 minutes ago, unofix said:

Excellent news, though sadly I'm not surprised in the least. I see in the photo the traces of water on the BCM.

Good luck with finding a suitable replacement. Remember it will need to be programmed.

Do you know if it is possible to programme a replacement with forscan?

1 minute ago, pabolo58 said:

Do you know if it is possible to programme a replacement with forscan?

Yes it should be possible to use the licensed version of FORScan to programme the replacement.

Make sure the part number of the replacement is an exact match. The revision letter must be the same or higher than the original.

1 minute ago, unofix said:

Yes it should be possible to use the licensed version of FORScan to programme the replacement.

Make sure the part number of the replacement is an exact match. The revision letter must be the same or higher than the original.

I have paid for the FORscan programme and completed a backup before I had taken this bit off lol!

 

I am just trying to find the part number on the unit, to then be able to find a suitable replacement ....more researching 🙃