unofix Posted April 10, 2023 Share Posted April 10, 2023 59 minutes ago, pabolo58 said: tested pin 1 and 2 on main beam and get 11.9... but nothing on pin 10 and 11... typo ? 🤣 low beam (dipped beam) are on pins 1 & 2 Main beam is on pins 10 and 11 OK. small steps, so the low beam headlight circuit would seem to work (fingers crossed). So with connector C2280D plugged back in you should be able to turn on the low beam headlights (might need ignition on). If the turn on then the BCM is alive ! The battery is getting very low now, you need to keep it on charge all of the time while fault finding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 10, 2023 Author Share Posted April 10, 2023 No typo 🤣 When main beam is switched on there is nothing on pin 10 + 11, but 11.9 on pins 1 + 2 when main beam is switched on.. Will recheck tomorrow and feedback 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 10, 2023 Share Posted April 10, 2023 Ok, plug the connector in and see if the headlights work. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 10, 2023 Author Share Posted April 10, 2023 I will do that first thing, weather has been awful so couldn’t spend as much time on it. Im just hoping the new BCM isn’t bad as the auto guy is due to come tomorrow to code the keys to it 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share Posted April 11, 2023 Plugged connector back in, turned low beam on - car turns low beam on (lights switch on outside) turned high main beam on - car turns main beam on ( lights turn on outside) so there is power and they are doing what they've been asked 🤣 Also took radio front out and pinned the connectors to see if there is power and there is volts going to pins took clock dials out and there is power to pins.... so there is power getting to the actual items that are not working.... the story continues....what are my next steps lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 11, 2023 Share Posted April 11, 2023 4 hours ago, pabolo58 said: what are my next steps lol good question 🤔 I think this has got to be something to do with Canbus. When are you getting the keys programmed back in to the car ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share Posted April 11, 2023 so the plot thickens.... the auto electrician has been, he plugged in one machine and it showed there was no connection to the car whatsoever, I showed him that I can get connected through forscan and read the car...so he came back from his van with another unit that read the car. The instrument cluster has no life, so he couldn't code the keys to the BCM, so i'm no further along. He has given me another guys number to see if he can help. He suggested getting another instrument cluster but said he's unsure that if a second hand unit is brought that it can be coded to sync with the car? He said once I've managed to get the instrument cluster back working that he'll come back and recode the keys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 11, 2023 Share Posted April 11, 2023 Hi, things just get more complicated. So as regards the instrument cluster I would very much doubt that there is anything wrong with it, unless your previous repair guy broke it !!! If you feel the need to rule it out there are two options. Buy a replacement of the EXACT same part number and with a mileage that is LESS than your own. This is because FORScan can only adjust mileage upwards, it can't turn it back. Second option just buy the cheapest instrument cluster of the same type, part number maybe a little different and mileage can be anything. Then you can just stick this in to see if life is restored !! Of course this will be of no use as a permanent fix so could be just a waste of money. I personally think the problem still revolves around the BCM. Either you have been unlucky and got a dead unit or something is wrong with the connectors and wires to the BCM. I think we can for the moment rule out the BCM itself, since when you put the old unit back the instrument cluster was still dead. I don't believe that you have two BCM with the exact same fault. The next step if I was doing this would be to recheck each and every wire of the connector that was replaced. To be honest this is the point in a professional repair facility you would hand over to someone else and get them to recheck. It is always very hard to recheck your own work, as humans we suffer from 'conformation bias' and see what we want to see and not what is actually there. You may be looking for corroded pin, or a misformed crimp thats not making connection. Installing the replacement connector mirror imaged is also a common mistake. If you were nearer to me, I'd be happy to call round and lend a hand. Good auto-electricians are very hard to find, but I think the way things are going you may well need to try and find one soon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share Posted April 11, 2023 51 minutes ago, unofix said: Hi, things just get more complicated. So as regards the instrument cluster I would very much doubt that there is anything wrong with it, unless your previous repair guy broke it !!! I don't believe he broke it, as after he had "tried his fix" I got the car back and took the repaired connector out to take photos for the part number to buy a replacement, when I reinserted the connector the dash was on and stayed on until I had to remove the same connector again then the pin on the old board then snapped off. ( Not inside the actual pin part but in the edge of the BCM ) Since then It hasn't come back to life...I'm truly confused.....what confuses me even more that the connector in question doesn't have a pin that leads to the instrument panel but must have something in there to complete the circuit or wouldn't have happened 🤯 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 11, 2023 Share Posted April 11, 2023 2 hours ago, pabolo58 said: I don't believe he broke it, as after he had "tried his fix" I got the car back and took the repaired connector out to take photos for the part number to buy a replacement Are you talking about a connector on the instrument cluster, or a connector on the old Body Control Module ? "You took the repaired connector out to take photos..." can you just confirm which connector you are refering to ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share Posted April 11, 2023 1 hour ago, unofix said: Are you talking about a connector on the instrument cluster, or a connector on the old Body Control Module ? "You took the repaired connector out to take photos..." can you just confirm which connector you are refering to ? I am referring to the C6 of the BCM - connector C2280D, apologies i should have made that clearer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share Posted April 11, 2023 Also what I found interesting when the auto guy was round he said that the cantus wasn't responding on the first system he used. I took a picture whilst he went to his van to get the 2nd system. He said that the CANH and CANL should show power...is there anyway to test this myself? Just thinking process of elimination...others would say clothing at straws 🤣🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 11, 2023 Share Posted April 11, 2023 1 hour ago, pabolo58 said: He said that the CANH and CANL should show power...is there anyway to test this myself? Ford use two CANbus systems. A High Speed CANH and a Medium Speed CANM which is why on the older type of connection leads the ELM327(modified) has a manual change over switch marked HS / MS The CANbus is pure data, it's not like a set voltage so I'm not sure what he was expecting to measure and with what. Each time you plug the vLinker lead in to the OBDII diagnostic port and connect FORScan you are by default proving that at least one of the canbus systems is alive and working otherwise FORScan would fail to connect. You can use the live data settings on FORScan and view both HS and MS data on the graph/oscilloscope. This might actually be worth doing !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just had a thought you might have an open-circuit Canbus and that would cause 50% of the modules to go offline including the instrument cluster. Below is an EXAMPLE list of the modules you should expect to see when you do a full new profile scan using FORScan. You should have nearly all of them, and even one or two extra that are not in this list. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 11, 2023 Share Posted April 11, 2023 OK, just re-read the whole thread from the beginning ! I'm convinced that you have an open-circuit Canbus. With your multimeter you are going to need to carefully measure the resistance of each network at the OBDII port. Test the MS canbus resistance between pins 3 and 11 Test the HS canbus resistance between pins 6 and 14 The correct resistance for each of them should be 60 ohm +/- 1 ohm I expect that you will find one reads about 120 ohm, this will be the faulty canbus circuit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 11 hours ago, unofix said: Ford use two CANbus systems. A High Speed CANH and a Medium Speed CANM which is why on the older type of connection leads the ELM327(modified) has a manual change over switch marked HS / MS The CANbus is pure data, it's not like a set voltage so I'm not sure what he was expecting to measure and with what. Each time you plug the vLinker lead in to the OBDII diagnostic port and connect FORScan you are by default proving that at least one of the canbus systems is alive and working otherwise FORScan would fail to connect. You can use the live data settings on FORScan and view both HS and MS data on the graph/oscilloscope. This might actually be worth doing !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just had a thought you might have an open-circuit Canbus and that would cause 50% of the modules to go offline including the instrument cluster. Below is an EXAMPLE list of the modules you should expect to see when you do a full new profile scan using FORScan. You should have nearly all of them, and even one or two extra that are not in this list. Where do I find this in ForScan, do I need to add the to the live data tab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 I think this is what you mean...however the auto guy left me me without being able to start the car, as he removed the keys from both BCM's 🤯so now i'm fluffed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 The list above of your car confirms that many of the modules on the canbus are not been found. Of course I don't know for sure everything that you car has as it depends on what options are fitted but some very obvious missing modules are:- IPC APIM HVAC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 OK so what are the next steps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 Measure the resistance of each canbus. Sent you a message. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 This is the one I'm using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 You can try measuring the resistance of the canbus at the plugs of the BCM (that's the plugs on the end of the cables not the socket of the BCM). After that I truly think you have taken it as far as you can go and it's time to swallow the bitter pill and get the car to a Ford dealer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 2 hours ago, unofix said: You can try measuring the resistance of the canbus at the plugs of the BCM (that's the plugs on the end of the cables not the socket of the BCM). After that I truly think you have taken it as far as you can go and it's time to swallow the bitter pill and get the car to a Ford dealer. what sort of resistance am I looking for from these? about 60? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 Should be exactly 60 ohm if the circuit is complete or it will be 120 ohm if broken. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 I'll test it in the morning, and reply with answers 🤔(maybe not ones we want to hear either lol) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabolo58 Posted April 13, 2023 Author Share Posted April 13, 2023 GUYS!!!! IM SO HAPPY I COULD PEE GLITTER 🤣 (if that was possible) so I have located the error and now have all instrument cluster back intact and working….and it wasn’t the canbus modules, nor the new BCM…..it was a flipping fuse that an AA guy removed for the stop start which was under the bonnet!!!!! so that one fuse gives power to the number 69 fuse on the BCM!!! which is the instrument cluster, I had checked the fuses and it wasn’t blown but didn’t think that the power was connected to the stop/start fuse under the bonnet…then last night I had a brain wave that he (the AA person) took that fuse out so thought right put it back, so I did then it came back on! so then I pulled the fuse again and went back to the BCM fuses and used a meter to see if there was power to that one fuse and it didn’t light up, went and plugged the fuse in under the bonnet, everything back on and power read from the fuse 69! Hey presto! so if anyone is having a similar problem check your stop/start fuse under the bonnet is firstly in place, then if it is broke, then check the 5amp fuse in passenger footwell no 69! just wanted to update you all and thank you so much for all your help, you have been amazing 😘. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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