I thought some big garage probably may help. Obviously there are many damaged engines out there ... At least they can try with another used valve. It will take 10 min. to make a test!

35 minutes ago, Tony Roman said:

I thought some big garage probably may help. Obviously there are many damaged engines out there ... At least they can try with another used valve. It will take 10 min. to make a test!

Is it hard to change the whole pump? And no problem @RayC333

13 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Is it hard to change the whole pump? And no problem @RayC333

Yes, easy to change the pump. Need to disconnect the vacuum tube from the pump valve, disconnect the brake connector from the top, undo the two nuts holding the solenoid on, remove a plastic cable holder (from the lower pump bolt), remove the three 8mm extended bolts (using a deep 8mm socket). Move the earth cable out of the way (that was retained by the forward bolt) and lift off the pump. Use a rag or whatever to clean up any oil.

The pump would require a new gasket if using a pre-owned one. Bolt torque 10Nm.

I had the valve off my pump this morning. Inconclusive I'm afraid. There was some oil at the bottom of where the valve sits and some oil did come out when I started the engine. Did note though that the diaphragm itself was not not soaked in oil.

Put it back together and at up to 2k revs the vacuum reading is very erratic with the turbo wastegate actuator rod oscillating. My guess is that this would steady at higher revs/load and on reading the OBD boost value whilst driving that confirmed it. The car runs fine.

 

15 hours ago, RayC333 said:

Yes, easy to change the pump. Need to disconnect the vacuum tube from the pump valve, disconnect the brake connector from the top, undo the two nuts holding the solenoid on, remove a plastic cable holder (from the lower pump bolt), remove the three 8mm extended bolts (using a deep 8mm socket). Move the earth cable out of the way (that was retained by the forward bolt) and lift off the pump. Use a rag or whatever to clean up any oil.

The pump would require a new gasket if using a pre-owned one. Bolt torque 10Nm.

I had the valve off my pump this morning. Inconclusive I'm afraid. There was some oil at the bottom of where the valve sits and some oil did come out when I started the engine. Did note though that the diaphragm itself was not not soaked in oil.

Put it back together and at up to 2k revs the vacuum reading is very erratic with the turbo wastegate actuator rod oscillating. My guess is that this would steady at higher revs/load and on reading the OBD boost value whilst driving that confirmed it. The car runs fine.

 

Ahh yeah the only thing is I don’t have a torque wrench and the pictures look like mine too but I had oil all over the diaphragm and for now I’m not sure if it’s a good idea but I did take the old end cap and body from the valve and use the new silicone piece and glued the nipple to the plastic part then glued the end cap to the body and for now it’s been fine 🤞 even at high speeds(70mph of course on the motorway😉, which is where it used to fall to pieces) but there’s a boost lag there only when moving off and I think this is because the new silicone piece is smaller than the original valve which would mean it’s not getting full vacuum but I’ve contacted the eBay seller for a new part

To be honest I would suggest the same - using the old housing /glued/ along with the new membrane. So, you mean there is some improvement?

No torque wrench!! I suppose I'd better stop thinking everyone has a full tool kit 🙄.

I would have just nipped up the bolts 'to what felt right' when I started out fixing vehicles.

At the start of this thread you mentioned there was a rattle - is it still audible?

13 hours ago, Tony Roman said:

To be honest I would suggest the same - using the old housing /glued/ along with the new membrane. So, you mean there is some improvement?

Yes absolutely but I just need to do the same with a bigger membrane as the one I have now is a little small compared to the housing but you still get the boost just not enough hahah but I can’t believe it’s actually holding

7 hours ago, RayC333 said:

No torque wrench!! I suppose I'd better stop thinking everyone has a full tool kit 🙄.

I would have just nipped up the bolts 'to what felt right' when I started out fixing vehicles.

At the start of this thread you mentioned there was a rattle - is it still audible?

Haha yes I need a torque wrench though! And yeah I still have the rattle like after low acceleration it makes a horrible rattle as if it’s in low end boost, say I accelerate and let off it’s like tapping on a can but u cant physically feel it like shake or anything, when it’s just revved at a standstill it’s still audible but not as loud it’s been driving me crazy for months haha but everyone says it’s normal but I think they thinks it’s the noise a 3 cylinder makes but I know it’s definitely not🤔

I’ve got a video of the noise just now and you can hear it but I can’t post it hear so I’m not sure where to post it 

10 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

I’ve got a video of the noise just now and you can hear it but I can’t post it hear so I’m not sure where to post it 

Upload to YouTube then link across.

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Upload to YouTube then link across.

https://www.kapwing.com/videos/64b92c8e19a05903428efc66

i used this instead let me know if it works 

This was on acceleration but usually does it after acceleration when u let go of the accelerator fully 

This one a bit more audible I think 

https://www.kapwing.com/videos/64b92f15309f6101e81e5cba

22 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

This one a bit more audible I think 

https://www.kapwing.com/videos/64b92f15309f6101e81e5cba

Sounds like a Doberman on the passenger seat.

Or Harley Davidson 

Are you sure it's coming from the engine? Very difficult to assess without being near the car. Non-standard exhaust? possible loose baffle inside. Guesswork really.

For a more serious answer, that does sound like an exhaust noise on the video, I wouldn't be surprised if there was a minor blow at the flexi pipe.

43 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

Are you sure it's coming from the engine? Very difficult to assess without being near the car. Non-standard exhaust? possible loose baffle inside. Guesswork really.

It was there before the exhaust was done and when you rev it with the bonnet open you can hear it somewhere near the front of the engine so I was thinking the recirc valve but I don’t see why it would make a noise like that unless it was something spinning like the turbo 🥶 but I was trying to rule that one out 🤣

35 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

For a more serious answer, that does sound like an exhaust noise on the video, I wouldn't be surprised if there was a minor blow at the flexi pipe.

Wouldn’t it make a whistling sound though? Or blowing noise as I did have a hole in the old exhaust and that sounded like gushing air

Front of engine - more likely to be the wastegate into the exhaust (metal against metal and could be fluttering if the vac pump diaphragm still not right).  Turbo wastegate linkage also wears.

Recirc valve unlikely to make a noise.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it.

4 hours ago, RayC333 said:

Front of engine - more likely to be the wastegate into the exhaust (metal against metal and could be fluttering if the vac pump diaphragm still not right).  Turbo wastegate linkage also wears.

Recirc valve unlikely to make a noise.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it.

I was thinking the same thing the flap inside the turbo housing, flaps when the linkage wears out I’ve heard so I’m hoping that’s all it is I’ve seen someone tighten it up but I can’t get heat shield off to even look at it

12 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Wouldn’t it make a whistling sound though? Or blowing noise as I did have a hole in the old exhaust and that sounded like gushing air

Not necessarily.  Depends on the shape, size & location of the blow.  I had a slightly loose centre pipe clamp that made the same sort of noise as your video.

However, given the extra description above, I would agree with the wastegate making the noise and that echoing through the exhaust pipe.

It's possible to adjust the linkage but it's only really there to set things up when new (or during replacement).

It wouldn't do anything to cure general wear in the wastegate pivot or to the faces of the wastegate valve if that's been fluttering.

My advice would be to leave well alone 🤔

Ahh definitely won’t then as knowing the luck I have with cars it would probably  do some more damage to something else 😂 and I’ve just got another new vacuum valve but I was wondering which way the air travels through the valve(if it does) would it be into the pump? As other than holding vacuum I have no idea what it actually does 😬🤣

22 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

As other than holding vacuum I have no idea what it actually does 😬🤣

At sufficient exhaust camshaft RPM, the vacuum pump begins to reduce the pressure in the wastegate actuator. This draws the internal diaphragm upward against spring pressure - bringing with it the actuator rod.  The actuator rod pulls the wastegate valve lever up, which in turn shuts the simple mechanical valve (located just rearward of the exhaust gas turbine). When the wastegate valve is closed by this action, all the exhaust gas is routed through the driving turbine (in turn directly driving the inlet turbine thereby increasing the pressure in the intake system. At low camshaft RPM, the vac pump is not creating a vacuum strong enough to work against the actuator spring - hence the valve will be open (or partially open as RPM increases) and some exhaust gas is 'wasted' straight into the exhaust system down pipe.

Of course the amount of vacuum suction the actuator sees is not just down to the operation of the pump. The solenoid mounted on the pump can moderate this vacuum and is controlled electronically.

1 hour ago, RayC333 said:

At sufficient exhaust camshaft RPM, the vacuum pump begins to reduce the pressure in the wastegate actuator. This draws the internal diaphragm upward against spring pressure - bringing with it the actuator rod.  The actuator rod pulls the wastegate valve lever up, which in turn shuts the simple mechanical valve (located just rearward of the exhaust gas turbine). When the wastegate valve is closed by this action, all the exhaust gas is routed through the driving turbine (in turn directly driving the inlet turbine thereby increasing the pressure in the intake system. At low camshaft RPM, the vac pump is not creating a vacuum strong enough to work against the actuator spring - hence the valve will be open (or partially open as RPM increases) and some exhaust gas is 'wasted' straight into the exhaust system down pipe.

Of course the amount of vacuum suction the actuator sees is not just down to the operation of the pump. The solenoid mounted on the pump can moderate this vacuum and is controlled electronically.

Ahh so that explains my rattle I think, now that I’ve got a new valve it’s taken away the rattle but now it feels underpowered again so I think the glued one is for keeps for now but I think I may need a new pump must be letting too much oil in 

So now I have a even bigger problem yesterday I felt the car jerk and all boost was lost and I thought the vac pump valve was broke again but checked it and even changed it and it’s not done nothing it’s not even an intermittent power loss this time when you set off in first it’s okay but still no boost then you change to 2nd and it starts to stall like a jerk when you accelerate and it just doesn’t even pick up speed and I checked in the engine bay and It stinks of fuel that bad it’s even coming in the cabin