Mk 2 focus, T reg 1.6 16v zetec.

I have had a few problems with this car since I bought it, I have sorted all but one problem, please bear with me while I explain it.

one of my problems I had was high revving on start up, and it took about 1 hour for revs to drop to mormal, this was caused by thermostate being stuck open, and head sensor detecting the car was cold so in turn kept revs high, I changed the thermostate and its now perfect.

3 weeks ago my alternator died, I called the rac, they took me to a auto electrician on the wirral, who diagnosed regulator had died, they reconed my alternator, and I bought a brand new battery a silver calcium.

Now at night time when am driving around with head lights on, if I switch on heater the lights go dim, if I press the brake pedal the lights go dim. If I press the clutch pedal the lights go dim and revs drop.

If am parked up with engine on tick over, and I press the brake pedal, the revs drop, even if I press the clutch pedal the revs drop, if i have headlights on and press the brake pedal and cluch pedal down, the engine comes very close to stalling.

I put a multi meter across the battery terminals with engine running, and am getting 19.5v, which am sure is too high.

If I switch on anything electrical when car is on tickover, the revs alter.

I was thinking about buying a brandnew alternator, but dont really want to do this if its not the problem, as I can not return it.

So I thought I would ask you guys and see what you recommend.

I would appreciate and advice and help you can give me.

Thanks.

_{This may help.}

_{http://www.petercoopercarrepairs.co.uk/ford_focus_alternator_smart_charging.htm}

_{Have you jump started the car at any time as that can goose your electrics when you have Fords Smart Charging system.}

I think your regulator is still duff.

I'd get it checked again.

_{This may help.}

_{http://www.petercoop...rt_charging.htm}

_{Have you jump started the car at any time as that can goose your electrics when you have Fords Smart Charging system.}

I have never jumped started this car, thats not to say a previous owner has not done so.

I think your regulator is still duff.

I'd get it checked again.

Would this cause the problems am having, I thought if regulator was duff, I would get battery light on, however saying that, you might be right, as am getting 19.5v with engine running.

What I can not understand is why it would do it with just pressing clutch down, as the clutch is done via cable, not electrics.

It might be worth checking all the earth/ground points on the car. Especially around the engine bay.

It might be worth checking all the earth/ground points on the car. Especially around the engine bay.

I have allready, replaced all earth leads under bonnet with brand new ones, and new battery terminals, and added extra earth leads, cleaned up all earth points, and also added new ones.

Sorry should of said in my first post all the things i have done.

also when headlights are on, if i use electric windows, the headlights go very dim.

Would this cause the problems am having, I thought if regulator was duff, I would get battery light on, however saying that, you might be right, as am getting 19.5v with engine running.

What I can not understand is why it would do it with just pressing clutch down, as the clutch is done via cable, not electrics.

You should be getting about 14.5v with the engine running so the power is not regulating properly.

I used to have this on a Motorbike and the regulator/rectifier was shot causing blown bulbs, intermittent power fluctuations, burnt out starter and a boiled battery.

Not sure if the car has a seperate rectifier but if you were to check with Ford or an auto electrician they may be able to shed light on the matter.

The battery light will probably only come on with a low charge/reduced return voltage not overcharge.

The clutch situation may be caused by the change in revs due to the engine spinning at a different speed on clutch seperation.

So they reconditioned the alternator? Hmmm, personally i'd not use a reconditioned one as there are many small faults that could have caused it to pack up in the first place that are not necessarily evident on a bench.

I know a new alternator is not a cheap option but it may be your best route.

IMHO, the voltage is not being regulated correctly so too much power is going to the battery and not enough to the car electrics.

That regulator has to go i think.

You should be getting about 14.5v with the engine running so the power is not regulating properly.

I used to have this on a Motorbike and the regulator/rectifier was shot causing blown bulbs, intermittent power fluctuations, burnt out starter and a boiled battery.

Not sure if the car has a seperate rectifier but if you were to check with Ford or an auto electrician they may be able to shed light on the matter.

The battery light will probably only come on with a low charge/reduced return voltage not overcharge.

The clutch situation may be caused by the change in revs due to the engine spinning at a different speed on clutch seperation.

So they reconditioned the alternator? Hmmm, personally i'd not use a reconditioned one as there are many small faults that could have caused it to pack up in the first place that are not necessarily evident on a bench.

I know a new alternator is not a cheap option but it may be your best route.

IMHO, the voltage is not being regulated correctly so too much power is going to the battery and not enough to the car electrics.

That regulator has to go i think.

I thought you where going to say that, I thought as much myself, just wanted someone else to confirm it this confirmed it for me (also when headlights are on, if i use electric windows, the headlights go very dim)

I think i will go out and buy a new alternator, i have been quoted for a brand new bosch one £115 if i give them my old one.

I thought you where going to say that, I thought as much myself, just wanted someone else to confirm it this confirmed it for me (also when headlights are on, if i use electric windows, the headlights go very dim)

I think i will go out and buy a new alternator, i have been quoted for a brand new bosch one £115 if i give them my old one.

That sounds a really good price for an alternator, i would assume that it will come with a new regulator too?

Please keep us informed of the results.

With smart charge you will see up to about 18v I believe. So 19.5v does seem high.

Personally I would take it back to who supplied the alternator or atleast give them a call

I have just bought a brand new in box genuine ford alternator for my dads focus 2006 1.8tdci - £125 so £115 seems fair

Am going to go and get me new alt at 2pm, so will report back, once i've fitted it..

I have just fitted alternator, and it's made no difference what so ever, the car still does not like anything electrical switched on, and it certainly does not like the clutch or brake pedal being pressed, if either are pressed, the car just barely keeps ticking over.

I have just fitted alternator, and it's made no difference what so ever, the car still does not like anything electrical switched on, and it certainly does not like the clutch or brake pedal being pressed, if either are pressed, the car just barely keeps ticking over.

unplug the 3 pin connector from the alternator while the engine is running and try things...does it help?

I have tried this, it makes no difference at all.

Sounds like a bad earth or short circuit of some sort to me!

I have not got a clue what it could be, now if I disconnect 3 pin plug on alt, and start engine, the battery light on dash comes on after about 60 seconds.

The battery light will come on if you disconnect the three pin plug. However, are the symptoms the same with it unplugged? Or is it better?

I would say they are a bit better as the revs don't drop as bad as they did., but I can still notice a drop in engine revs when I switch on headlights, or press brake pedal so rear lights come on

David, to me it sounds like maybe water ingress somewhere causing a short circuit or rust, given the age of the car. Check all the fuses for correct rating. If one continually blows, then you have narrowed it down a bit. Electrics on the car can be a bit of a nightmare. You will get a wee flicker on your lights or when you press the brake pedal. This is down to the Ford 'smart charging' system. When I press the brake when coasting, the revs go up to 900 and then settle down to 750. This is normal for these cars.

I chaecked all fuses this morning, they are all correct, and none where blown, I noticed the ones in engine bay fuse box, the terminals where not very clean on fuses, so i cleaned them all.

Surley its not normal for lights to go dim, am not talking a little dim.

It sounds like a bad earth or a short circuit to me.

Do you know where all earth points are, I have renewed, battery terminals, and earth point on body next to battery, also one on back top of engine just above exhaust manifold to body, I can't see any more under the bonnet

I don't know where they all are, but they are quite easy to spot. Just take your time, in good daylight with a decent torch to check underneath the engine bay. I think there is a couple on the front of the inner wings .