Been playing around to day, and I think I may have solved it.

Moved a few earths direct to battery, unplugged main plug into back of headlights, and the terminals where touching each other, sorted them out.

And when i start engine now, and switch on lights or heater, the revs dont drop, but engine shakes. I think I have found the reason for that.

Been reading on web, and I noticed it said, remove fuel filter, and blow through it, if it offers a snigifcant (excuse spelling) resitence then it partiall blocked, and when you turn on a load, the engine is not getting the right amount of fuel so starts to struggle.

I took fuel filter of, and tried to blow through it, and it was very very hard to blow through it, so I think fuel filter is bloked causing a fuel starvation.

Do you think am right to think this.

I think finding the touching light terminals has helped a fair bit.

A new filter will never hurt.

I suspected a bad eath/short circuit. I doubt if the fuel filter has anything to do with it, though. Especially when you said it was running fine with the ICV and/or the three pin alternator plug disconnected.

There has been one thing I have forgot to mention in all my post's, (dohh) My live battery terminal gets very hot, but not melted wires yet.

There has been one thing I have forgot to mention in all my post's, (dohh) My live battery terminal gets very hot, but not melted wires yet.

the battery terminals are designed to carry huge amounts of power so this is definitely not normal. you should probably start by removing it and cleaning it up - any resistance here will cause it to heat up

Battery terminals are brand new, am going to replace positive laeds to day, am at stage now, where I just want to give up

We all know it takes a live and neg for a bulb to work, so drivers side headlight, i cut the earth wire, but yet headlight still works, not bright, but it does work.

Where is the main earth wire for front lights, am thinking disconnect original earths, and put new earth in for front and back lights.

Is the headlight itself acting as the negative by being screwed to the car bodywork ? The negative side of the headlight bulb probably is the bulb body, so when fitted in the headlight unit, completes the circuit.

Last thing before I get shot of car.

Am getting 13.8v if I put multimeter on alt output nut, but on the same lead but other end that connects to battery am getting 13.7v, this is the red cable that goes from battery to starter then continues to alt. would this difference cause these symptoms.

Took it to another auto spark this morning who tested alt, he said its perfect. he also said to change coil pack, am not to sure on that one. He said it sounds like its miss firing when a load is switched on.

the mk1 and 1.5 is a mare with these types of problems so sympathy mate it can be a never ending pain ive given up on 2 mates mk1 cars with issues no matter what you did there was no soloution as a last case it could be a faulty diode in the ecu it does happen causing mysterious issues unfortunately the only way to know is send the ecu away for repairs

I would like to thank everyone that gave there opions and advice, this fault has now been sorted.

I took old fuel filter off, and tried blowing through it, it was virtuall impossable, it felt like my head was going to explode trying.

I bought new one from fords, and blew though that one, and it was very easy to do.

Put new filter on, took it for a drive, and its perfect now.

So fuel starvation, cost me a hell of a lot, buying all new parts.

Congrats mate, sometimes the least complex things cause other more misleading problems.

Jeez what a trial that was.

Fingers crossed that you've got a healthy car again.

I am sorry to bug you guys again, but the dreaded fault has come back, (engine shaking when i use any electrics), I have found that if i unplug smart charge plug, things go perfect, auto spark said i should just leave it disconnected, as long as i dont mind batt light on dash being on.

Have also noticed, when driving off from standing, car seems to hesitate, and then just pick up, seems to be a bit of a delay.

it looks like it may be a diode in the ecu thats gone or the signal from ecu to the smart charge id have the dealers do a full check on it have you checked the wires on the 3 plug for any breaks

I have gone back as far as i can with the wires on 3 pin plug, they look quiet new, i have the same volatge at red wire as the battery, but the other 2 wires, have different voltages.

Am thinking it might be easier just to go scrap yard and get full wiring loom and ecu from scrap car.

O r could i just get ecu and plug it in, or do i need other parts to go with it. is this all i would need http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-MK-1-1-6-16V-ECU-SET-/200778376595?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ebf52e593

youde be wasting more money back to fords is the answer its not a smart charge fault

Ok, one last thing before i go back to fords.

As changing fuel filter seemed to of solved it for 50+ miles, could it now be fuel injectors partially blocked, I cut the old fuel filter open, and you would not believe the crap that was in there, I can not believe the car ran at all, there was all thick sludge.

Would it be worth m,e taking fuel injectors out and doing a diy clean on them. before i go spend another £78 at fords for them to plug it in and say no faults found.

They told me lights dimming was normal on these cars.

Have you consIdered the ignition side of things, as you say it hesitates sounds like a misfire to me.

Possible plugs, leads or coil at fault

new leads and plugs, and coil fitted 5 days ago

I doubt if it's a fuel feed issue on your car. What is the milage on it?

Hesitation would suggest pcv pipes leaking. However, this is not going to correct your ongoing electrical problem.

Right. This is a shot in the dark. I have never done this. It's just a suggestion. Disconnect neg. lead on battery. Disconnect lead from ECU, spray lead and pins with electrical contact cleaner, leave for 10 minutes, reconnect ECU, reconnect battery and see how you go from there.

Right. This is a shot in the dark. I have never done this. It's just a suggestion. Disconnect neg. lead on battery. Disconnect lead from ECU, spray lead and pins with electrical contact cleaner, leave for 10 minutes, reconnect ECU, reconnect battery and see how you go from there.

Will try this in the morning

Hesitation would suggest pcv pipes leaking. However, this is not going to correct your ongoing electrical problem.

All brand new pipes