if anyone has a haynes manual for the mk1 and mk1.5

the earth points are in a list within the manual ive tried ford microcat but its showing all cables and not just the earth points so its usless to you mate, but the haynes manual would be ideal if someone could take the time to type up the locations on here for you.

would be ideal if someone could take the time to type up the locations on here for you.

That will be me then ;)

Here you go -

Battery ground strap

Right hand "A" pillar X2

Left hand front of engine compartment

Left hand "A" pillar

Left hand side engine compartment X 2

Tailgate

Left hand luggage compartment

Left hand Engine bulkhead

Right hand Engine bulkhead

Hope that's of help to you.

Thank you, will go check for them all and clean them up.

Just been to another garage, he said as there is no history about cam belt, and with car having over 126 thousand miles on it, it's likely cam belt may of slipped, and timing may be slightly out.

He said that would cause it to not run right if it has slipped.

What do you guys think to that.

I would say touting for business although belt would need doing at that mileage i dont think this is your problem like others have said pointing in the direction of bad earth loose conection to me there are no leads chaffing on body work anywhere just a thought but i would think that would blow a fuse myself i would double check all the earths again

I have checked all earths, disconnected them all, cleaned them all, and reconnected them, its made no difference.

Update:

I have found that, if I totally disconnect alt, (3 pin plug, and thick red power lead) and then start engine, I can switch on lights heater etc etc, and lights do not go dim revs do not drop.

But reconnect alt and all problems start, alt is kicking out 14.7v

Regulator then?

just fitted another brand new alt, and its still the same

Jesus, you're having no luck at all are you?

I think an auto electrician is needed.

I called RAC out again, after I fitted new alt, he checked voltage at battery not started, and with engine running, he says its perfect.

He can not understand why as soon as any load is switched on, engine goes weird, and lights dim, as the charging system and battery are perfect.

I have come to the end of what i can do now, am going to Fords tomorrow, and get them to fix it. No doubt it will cost me a fortune.

Can I just throw this your way guys.

A friend just took look at my car, he says idle control valve (his reason is)

With engine running, he disconnected idle control valve, revs drop to to nice and quite, no shaking.

Turned on all electrical items, and revs did not alter, no engine shaking absolutely perfect, no diming lights.

What do you reckon.

It does look like the source may have been detected.

Definitely worth replacing it.

Going to collect new one at 3pm, will report back and let you's know outcome.

Ok mate, please do.

we all wait patiently :-)

Jamie

New ICV fitted, no difference, now booked in to fords monday

Maybe the ICV wiring plug is causing a short when plugged in?

Fords have just looked at car, they say no faults found.

Am stumped now.

What is correct idle speed? Mine idles at 1 line below 1, and when i switch on heater or headlights or press on brake pedal, just enough for brake lights to come on, it goes down to 2 lines below 1, could i just turn screaw to increase idle.

I will give £200 Cash to any one that can come and sort this for me please

The car should idle at 750 rpm. If it was running fine with the ICV unplugged, why not just run it like that for a while and see how you go. Given the year of your car, I would still say an earthing/short circuit problem. Maybe a possibility of the ECU not receiving information, due to some sort of corruption/water ingress,etc.

did they update the ecu/pcm etc etc

Jamie

They said there was no update.

I honestly can not see it being an earth issue, the reason I say this, is:

If I totally disconnect alternator, remove 3 pin plug and power lead, and start car and switch on all lights heater etc etc, engine revs do not alter, lights do not dim etc etc.

So I don't think its a earth problem, alt is a 80amp one, I was going to go for a 110amp, but did not know if this would cause problems, as factory one is 80amp, I stuck with 80.

This is really bugging me now, I bet it turns out to be something small thats causing this.

If I where to get a ecu from a donor car, what bits do i need to get with it to make car run.

I know am clutching at straws but I desperatley want to correct this problem, so will try anything.

Disconnecting the 3 pin makes the alternator act as a conventional one without input from the ecu about demand or load.

So of its playing up with it connected then It would seem the ecu is not doing as it should

We all know it takes a live and neg for a bulb to work, so drivers side headlight, i cut the earth wire, but yet headlight still works, not bright, but it does work.

Where is the main earth wire for front lights, am thinking disconnect original earths, and put new earth in for front and back lights.

Pretty sure the earth is front right side of engine bay.

You could just run straight to the battery earth strap.