Focus Lx 2000 1.6 Overheating Problem, Garage Out Of Ideas

[melancholyman]

Hi, new here, shout if I've broken any protocols.

My trusty LX has a hard life but at 150K miles has not yet let me down, Recently however she overheated on the way home from work. Nursed her home courtesy of water bought en route. Garage found thermostat cover cracked. Replaced and fitted new 'stat.

Appeared to be fine until I had to take a hill and my revs rose above 3000rpm at which point the temp gauge quickly showed the needle rising to the red. However backing off the revs allowed the temp to drop. Experimenting I found that even exceeding 3ooo rpm on the flat would produce the same result. Back to garage and everything checked out in cooling system with no coolant loss either!

Mechanic was at wits end. Only thing he could think of was a blown head gasket, but no sign of water in oil etc. Anyway, passed a pressure test so that blew that idea away.

Currently I have the Focus back until we can figure out what the hell is going on. Thankfully I have another car I can use to keep me mobile but am anxious to get the problem sorted asap. Can anyone come up with any suggestions? Any ideas?

I should add that when she originally overheated the first warning light came on but not the second i.e. the failsafe mechanism did not cut in ...

Mel

[Guest]

If it's at high revs I would check water pump a broken fin may not move the hot water to the radiator quick enough or possibly try a radiator flush, is the hose going to the radiator hot? Does the heater work as it always did?

I know some Peugeots do this (Google Peugeot overheats when on the motorway, it's usually pump or semi blocked rad.

[JW1982]

Which brand/type of thermostat is used? In the past Ford changed the temperature of the thermostat. A 74 degree Celsius thermostat should be installed instead of a 84 degree Celsius thermostat. Many aftermarket manufacturers do still supply 84 degree Celsius thermostats. Therefore it is recommended to install an original Ford 74 degree Celsius thermostat.

Bleeding the coolant system of the 1.6 Zetec engine can be a pain in the !Removed!. It is recommended to use a vacuum system to remove all air out of the cooling system.

Another frequently used method is raising the front of the car for approximately 30 cm and let the engine run just above 2000 RPM for about 10 to 15 minutes until the thermostat opens. Usually the coolant level drops a lot after the thermostat opened. If the car is levelled air may be trapped just before the thermostat which prevents the thermostat from opening.

[iantt]

As adam said , normaly its either water pump or rad blocked

[mockneyferguson]

Have you got any problem with heating? If the heating is poor i would strongly consider looking at water pump. the easiest way to test a water pump is get someone to rev the engine, if the level goes down i would say the pump impellor is intact

[artscot79]

Replace the coolant tank pressure cap a dodgy or failed seal will cause similar symptoms they're a cheap start to bleed the system let the car run with the cap off heater on hot it will take a while but when you get hot air blowing through replace the pressure cap and wait 5 mins before switching off

[melancholyman]

Hey thanks guys. A bit slow of me to acknowledge but I work 12 hour night shifts over the weekend so not much time and a bit knackered as well.

I can confirm that the water pump has been checked and seems ok. Heater works as it always has!

I do remember the garage having a problem getting hot water through to one of the pipes so an air lock does seem a possibility.

Didn't know about the two types of thermostat and will find out which was used and get it changed if necessary.

Appreciate your thoughts and will report back. As I said earlier I have another vehicle to keep me going but with 3oo miles to do each weekend the Focus is my workhorse and I need her back pronto :-)

Any more ideas please feel free. All help accepted gratefully

Mel

[simcor]

If it overheat going up hill when it is understood then I would suspect through waterpump needs changing. Had a few transits that overheated only when going up hill and was down to through waterpump not working well enough to pump the coolant around the engine. Supposed to be a common problem on Ford's from a breakdown by that came out to one of ours that overheated.

[melancholyman]

THanks Simon, will look into it

Chers

Mel

[melancholyman]

UPDATE:

Tried running system hot whilst the front end was raised. Made sure coolant was well and truly hot and then run for god knows how long with cap on and off. End result ... no change. Thanks for the idea though.

System appears to run correctly in that there is no long delay before heater blows warm air and neither does she zoom straight to the red. Hoses in and out of rad both run warm/hot. No coolant loss.

Going to try changing to the lower thermostat. Also its time for a timing belt change anyway so the garage has her and at same time will check out water pump and its drive ,,, we'll see where that gets us. Will keep you informed.

Thanks all

Mel

[Vendee]

Thanks for keeping us updated. Too many people post their problems here, get given advice and are never heard from again :)

[melancholyman]

No problem Paul, seems the polite thing to do when people try to help. Just wish I had something more positive to report. Never mind, we'll get there in the end no doubt.

ATB

Mel

[63 Oahu]

On ‎20‎/‎02‎/‎2015 at 0:08 AM, melancholyman said:

Hi, new here, shout if I've broken any protocols.

My trusty LX has a hard life but at 150K miles has not yet let me down, Recently however she overheated on the way home from work. Nursed her home courtesy of water bought en route. Garage found thermostat cover cracked. Replaced and fitted new 'stat.

Appeared to be fine until I had to take a hill and my revs rose above 3000rpm at which point the temp gauge quickly showed the needle rising to the red. However backing off the revs allowed the temp to drop. Experimenting I found that even exceeding 3ooo rpm on the flat would produce the same result. Back to garage and everything checked out in cooling system with no coolant loss either!

Mechanic was at wits end. Only thing he could think of was a blown head gasket, but no sign of water in oil etc. Anyway, passed a pressure test so that blew that idea away.

Currently I have the Focus back until we can figure out what the hell is going on. Thankfully I have another car I can use to keep me mobile but am anxious to get the problem sorted asap. Can anyone come up with any suggestions? Any ideas?

I should add that when she originally overheated the first warning light came on but not the second i.e. the failsafe mechanism did not cut in ...

Mel

I have exactly the same issue with 2004 1.6 petrol. To date I have changed the thermostat (not sure of the temp), cylinder head sensor, changed the rad (due to a !Removed! up, a basic rad ordered , ac disconnected), the car uses no coolant???? Aaaaargh.

the only things left are the water pump and the catalytic converter. I have heard these can fail causing a blockage that end, however i am sceptical about this. I have had the diagnostics checked regular when it started and the running temp appears ok. Garage edging towards electrical.

 

can you tell me, next time the engine is running, can you pop the oil filler cap off, reason is when I remove mine there is a blowing almost like an exhaust. Not sure if there is any thing untoward. Thought I would mention it