10 hours ago, Albert27 said:

since doing the pads the handbrake has gone quite high.  Why is this and how do i adjust it?

Also the retaining clip on the outside of the caliper i managed to snap as it was completely jammed in the caliper.  What is this clip for and does it matter that I've snapped it?

The main handbrake adjustment is inside the caliper. It could be that applying the footbrake hard a couple of times with the engine running both with the handbrake on, and with it off, will settle the pads in, and allow the adjuster to get to its best position.

If, after bedding in the brakes, the position remains high, the cable can be adjusted at the handbrake lever end, from inside the car by lifting the trim panels round it.

If the position keeps altering, particularly creeping up on repeated handbrake actuations, or with pad wear, then the one or both of the adjusters inside the calipers would be likely to be sticking or slipping. I know of no way to get at these, though I believe it is possible.

I do not think those spring clips are very critical. They act between caliper & bracket to pull the caliper inwards a bit, so it has a better defined location when the brakes are off. This may reduce brake drag, noise and improve adjustment, but in the short term should not be important. They are quite cheap, some pad sets have them free.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-MK2-2004-2010-2-X-REAR-WIRE-CALIPER-SPRINGS-FITTING-KIT-BPF1755P-/231361448514

I can't honestly judge the disk condition from the photos without feeling the roughness. Some light scoring is normal. But deep grooving is not. They do look a little worse than I would ideally expect, however light and shade on a photo can be deceptive.

Out in the workshop, I have a windback tool, and can measure the pin spacing. If no-one gets there first, I will dig this out & send the info. But I am out & about on Sunday, so it will be late!

 

 

9 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The main handbrake adjustment is inside the caliper. It could be that applying the footbrake hard a couple of times with the engine running both with the handbrake on, and with it off, will settle the pads in, and allow the adjuster to get to its best position.

If, after bedding in the brakes, the position remains high, the cable can be adjusted at the handbrake lever end, from inside the car by lifting the trim panels round it.

If the position keeps altering, particularly creeping up on repeated handbrake actuations, or with pad wear, then the one or both of the adjusters inside the calipers would be likely to be sticking or slipping. I know of no way to get at these, though I believe it is possible.

I do not think those spring clips are very critical. They act between caliper & bracket to pull the caliper inwards a bit, so it has a better defined location when the brakes are off. This may reduce brake drag, noise and improve adjustment, but in the short term should not be important. They are quite cheap, some pad sets have them free.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-MK2-2004-2010-2-X-REAR-WIRE-CALIPER-SPRINGS-FITTING-KIT-BPF1755P-/231361448514

I can't honestly judge the disk condition from the photos without feeling the roughness. Some light scoring is normal. But deep grooving is not. They do look a little worse than I would ideally expect, however light and shade on a photo can be deceptive.

Out in the workshop, I have a windback tool, and can measure the pin spacing. If no-one gets there first, I will dig this out & send the info. But I am out & about on Sunday, so it will be late!

 

 

Thanks Peter that would be really helpful re measurement.  I understand the laser tool works on the front piston (it comes with a '1' and '2' adaptor?!), but the rear is smaller and the only mark on the set my neighbour had for the rear was 'M'.  I think that's just how the set was arranged - in alphabetical order or something.

Having now been out in the car a few times the lever seems to have adjusted back to a more normal level.  5 clicks will hold on a gradual hill and 6 or 7 on steeper gradients.

I'll have a look at the link - half the job would be getting the clip out!  It's properly stuck in!  Maybe some plusgas would do it.

On the discs, if the scoring is quite deep, what effect would there be if i just left it for 2 months till MOT for a verdict?  Is there any risk with scored discs apart from shredding the pad a bit quicker perhaps?  By the way I managed to measure the thickness of the rear disk (10.05mm) as once the caliper was off there was space for my micrometer away from the guard.  

14 hours ago, Albert27 said:

On the discs, if the scoring is quite deep, what effect would there be if i just left it for 2 months till MOT for a verdict?  Is there any risk with scored discs apart from shredding the pad a bit quicker perhaps? 

If the braking is smooth and progressive, then like you say, it will just result in a bit faster pad wear. I think I would leave it to the MoT. I know of no objective criteria for allowed depth of scoring, so it will be down to the personal judgement of the tester. He (she?) will have the results of a brake efficiency test to back up his verdict.

If there was any snatching, vibration or pulling to one side on braking, then replace them.

Thickness sounds fine.

My windback tool has pins on about 20mm (centers) spacing. It is a simple plate that allows a 10mm a/f socket to turn the piston, see photo.

Lack of spring might be an MoT failure, if the tester noticed and thought it was important. They are prone to rusting, very poorly plated, if at all. I guess there is just a stub stuck in the caliper, and I seem to recall that it is a blind hole, no access from the back? WD40 or plusgas, sealed in with some corrosion proofer like waxoyl or any sealant, and left for a week or two, might help, though I do not have much faith in either for rusted items. Is there enough left to get a good grip with mole grips or something like that? Heat might help, a caliper will stand well over 100C, though avoid direct heat on the rubber seals etc.

Handbrake now sounds fine to me. If it is a bit inefficient, and I had an MoT advisory to that effect a couple of years ago, I did a mini guide to greasing the cables:

BTW: I have had quite a lot of hassle from my rear brakes, partly due to my ignorance at the time!  I have learnt most of this the hard way. I just hope I can save others from some of the same difficulties. Which is what forums like this are all about, really!.

 

16 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

If the braking is smooth and progressive, then like you say, it will just result in a bit faster pad wear. I think I would leave it to the MoT. I know of no objective criteria for allowed depth of scoring, so it will be down to the personal judgement of the tester. He (she?) will have the results of a brake efficiency test to back up his verdict.

If there was any snatching, vibration or pulling to one side on braking, then replace them.

Thickness sounds fine.

My windback tool has pins on about 20mm (centers) spacing. It is a simple plate that allows a 10mm a/f socket to turn the piston, see photo.

Lack of spring might be an MoT failure, if the tester noticed and thought it was important. They are prone to rusting, very poorly plated, if at all. I guess there is just a stub stuck in the caliper, and I seem to recall that it is a blind hole, no access from the back? WD40 or plusgas, sealed in with some corrosion proofer like waxoyl or any sealant, and left for a week or two, might help, though I do not have much faith in either for rusted items. Is there enough left to get a good grip with mole grips or something like that? Heat might help, a caliper will stand well over 100C, though avoid direct heat on the rubber seals etc.

Handbrake now sounds fine to me. If it is a bit inefficient, and I had an MoT advisory to that effect a couple of years ago, I did a mini guide to greasing the cables:

BTW: I have had quite a lot of hassle from my rear brakes, partly due to my ignorance at the time!  I have learnt most of this the hard way. I just hope I can save others from some of the same difficulties. Which is what forums like this are all about, really!.

 

Braking is good and all seems fine now the pads have bedded in a bit more.  As I may have mentioned before the front discs are at min thickness so will get them done next!  Alas, I hope it's a little more straightforward with the wind back tool!  I'm learning that very few of my car repair jobs go to plan... there always seems to be a spanner in the works somewhere (excuse the pun!) , but at least it's entertaining! 

Definitely no access from the back.  I will have a go with something and see what I can do as I think there is enough space for some mole grips - certainly on the one end anyway.

Thanks for the help!

Final Update:

Just a quick thanks for all the info you guys gave me.  Been out doing the rear discs & pads today prior to MOT as the discs were in pretty bad condition.  Job went smoothly, this is my third go at working on brakes and my confidence is growing - felt like I knew what I was doing today!! One thing of interest, I slapped 'eicher' pads on temporarily two months ago and replaced with Mintex today.  The piston had screwed up the back plate of the pad, whether it's common or not I don't know or down to poor quality pads but will post a photo later.

On a separate note for anyone reading this who is a beginner like me - a sledge hammer is essential - the discs wouldn't budge with a standard one and have to say its incredibly satisfying wacking them off 

And finally, with some plusgas & decent pliers, a hammer, and a screwdriver complete with half an hour's patience, i got the broken caliper spring out of the blind hole and replaced with a new one.  Had a quote of £190 for the rear discs & pads + new spring.  All done for £54!  Happy Days!

Here's the 'eicher' pad after two months. Whether this should happen I don'T know but none of the other pads i've pulled out looked like this. Photo not great but it's through to metal.