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Diy 1.6 Tdci Dpf Change - With Pictures!


TomsFocus
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Try a new temp sender, maybe the old one is reading low so the car never thinks the DPF is hot enough to trigger the fuelling for a regen

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Randoms, regen should be roughly every 500 miles on a good DPF with long distance driving, so yours sounds about right. :)

Thanks for the advice/reply, I've never had a motor as modern/with as much kit as this so it's all new to me.

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I've removed the DPF completely to avoid any problems with it in the future.

Combined it with a Stage 1 tuning and it all works well.

Also I now can use some good motoroil instead of the low saps oil prescriped for DPF cars.

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Tom, you mention the remap costing a lot, you could save yourself a fortune and use someone else map.

yes yes it wont be custom etc etc but it will firstly have the DPF removed and secondly it would work.

the tricky bit would be having the means to backup yours just incase and applying another.

ive managed to modify a Fgtech v4 chines clone, it reads and writes my flash memory correctly, not sure id trust my soldering to another blokes car but if your handy with one yourself then it might be worth it.

I tried that MPPS but it was always a bit flaky and took ages to do anything...

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Can you use other peoples maps on these?

On my Golf I could use a generic map for any Golf with that engine. But on the Peugeot's it had to be specific to the ECU code which is a right pain. (I now have about 15 DW10 remaps haha).

I've already ripped and saved the original map file from the Focus using MPPS...you must've got a dodgy one lol.

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i thought so too, but ive seen it with my own eyes, generic map, uploads and away they went. Trying to find out details was impossible tho, trade secrete. There is a software version that appears on some maps and indeed my own, this can easily be changed tho.

In theory, you can apply any map, if it doesn't work then just upload the original one, the flash partition is separate from the main ECU EEPROM, So in theory you can recover any little experiments you try, in practice I'm not 100% confidant!

Have you got WinOls?

if you have ill send you mine, tweaked and the DPF issue is... Fixed :) you should be able to compare the two quite easily.

I don't mind taking a look if you want to send me yours but at this stage I can only give you theory as reassurance, I would hate to bugger up another blokes car!!

I'm on a few other forums to learn this stuff but its not always easy. Our ECU has over 140 different maps, there is a staggering amount of information the car needs to work, I'm trying to identify the useful ones without cheating and using the damos files!

is yours the EDC16C34/2

I don't think killing the DPF is as simple as a single change on the EDC16. The EGR is pretty straight forward if you can find the damn thing, that's what ive been playing with since its blocked off already, figured I cant bugger it up!

might even be worth joining something like ECUedit, or MHHauto, dump your image and ask for help, folk are usually ok in helping if you don't mind doing some of the leg work

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Thanks Darren.

I do have Winols and while I have a good theoretical understanding of the maps...looking at them on there just fries my brain haha. :lol:

The DPF and EGR delete are both fairly complicated, and using a search tool for them isn't really good enough. Problem is even something that appears simple like EGR uses some maps that appear unrelated. One needs to be altered to make up for the extra air through the MAF for example.

I know you can apply any map and then remove but the problem is if I remove physically the DPF and then find the tweaked map doesn't work that wouldn't be great.

If you don't mind sending your map file that'd be useful. :)

Oh also, was it you that had to change the DPF temp sensor? If so was it expensive? If I can get away with just changing something small/cheap/easy for now I'd much rather do that.

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Ill send it over tonight after work, I have full set for this model of car as well, complete with all maps identified, I believe its stock.

with mine it should in theory drop in to your car and work but I have some questions over the software versions that might throw a spanner in the works. The structure all looks the same between the different maps ive seen but there could of course be some minor variations between software versions.

Yeah, my Sensor was damaged when I had the DPF fixed, was reading a constant 100c regardless of what was happening. I managed to get the garage to pay out for it as I could prove it was working before I brought it in. there wasn't much fuss after that and a new one was installed.

I have no idea how much they cost but I reckon a quick trip to a scrappy will have you sorted for a few quid.

Its not a complicated sensor so I don't know how the buggered it up, perhaps it got covered in the dust from the brick then baked on but that shouldn't have effected yours

If the sensor is gubbed it would make some sense if it never gets hot enough tho.

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Thanks Darren.

My sensor does read temp change so obviously not as broken as yours was, but it does seem odd how it never reads really hot. When my sensor came out it looked like a furry caterpillar lol, was covered in ash but all cleaned off easily so I doubt that would've caused yours to break but I'm not sure.

Really gotta think whether it's worth removing or not. Hmm...

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Heres the image of my flash, ive also attached the damos file I had and what I think is a stock image.

Perhaps the temperature sensor is working fine, since I had mine fixed ive noticed its dropped by a good few degrees.

if the brick inside your new one isn't the right material or perhaps constructed the same then perhaps it physically cant heat up enough.

lets assume for a second you cut the DPF without doing the ECU mod

what would happen?

Pressure would never increase with soot buildup, the car would think your driving it stupid but never building up pressure to trigger the active regen.

lets say it did trigger an active regen, wouldn't it fail much like start stop driving would stop it? worst case is it dumps some diesel in to help it heat up, which might make a bit of smoke but unless it pours the stuff in and turns your exhaust into a jet engine its not going to heat up enough to break anything.

guess I'm saying, worst case, if you need to, you can keep your car running whilst you tackle the ECU problem

ecu data.zip

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The ECU knows the DPF should have some resistance, if there is absolutely no pressure change when revved it can bring up a fault code (did when I plumbed the sensor into itself). I don't know whether that fault would cause limp mode or anything further down the line.

Start stop driving doesn't fail an active regen, only turning the engine off does. The heat could cause all kinds of issues as it'd be far more than normal due to no soot or filter there, that's why you can't perform a static regen with a brand new DPF. I personally wouldn't risk it without the map but each to their own.

It's not only that though, it will be a right pain to remove and I'll have to ask my mechanic mate to collect it and deliver it back (15 miles each way) and I'll have to do it as quick as I can, no more than 2 days as he'll gut it one evening. And I'm worried about future sale of the car with the DPF gutted.

Tbh I'm tempted to just trade it in for a 2.0 TDCi in the same spec. No idea what mines worth now though. But as I'm moving away and won't have space or time for 'heavy' car work I just can't risk the potential problems that the DV6 brings. Just wish the EcoBoost Fiestas had dropped into my price range really lol.

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that's a fair point, to many unknowns, you could always stop it from delivering the diesel for active regens, getting a bit hackish but again, if its a choice between that and off the road I think id give it a shot. perhaps find an old DPF to play with one weekend, have someone monitoring temps as you drive.

As for the DPF and reselling. can you reasonably be expected to know if a DPF was on and working before you sold it on....

One things for sure, the new owner would thank your for it if they ever had the issues you've had!

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Its a shame about the 1.6, seems like the development cycle was just too quick, its only now that most of this crap has been taken care of. wouldn't mind the 1.8, id have thought the 2.0 TDCI must weight up like a tank, Shes a big heavy girl even with the 1.6 waist!

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Well, had a look around for 2.0 TDCi Titanium's in a 50 mile radius... Would all cost more than mines worth, plus higher mileage...and they didn't have the heated leathers, HID Xenons and cruise control options that mine does. So I guess I'll persevere with the DV6 for now lol. Plus I FINALLY got a 60mpg tank average lol. Trip computer underread slightly this time, it's actually 60.4mpg when calculated manually.

IMAG4712_zpsdmbwdce5.jpg

My welder mate has said he's happy to collect and deliver the DPF, so just seeing how cheap I can get the remap now and that's probably the route I'll take.

However if it lets me down after that I'll burn the !Removed! car... :lol: Or maybe swap a 2.0 in.... :D The Focus is already the heaviest car I've owned (except maybe the Vectra) so I don't see much difference between the 1.6 and 2.0 weight and handling wise.

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Change of plan again...price of map has doubled to £250! Can't do that, its cheaper to replace the DPF again lol. So I'll give it a full service before I move and just hope it lasts the next 6 months then I'll probably sell it on.

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If you want to send me your dump from the ECU I can have someone take a look at it for nothing, thatll just be the DPF removal, at the very least it will give you options should it all go pear shaped and you need to do it...

Totally unrelated post, have you ever taken off the inlet manifold on the 1.6tdci? if so how did you get on with removing the high pressure fuel lines, etis shows them connecting behind the damned EGR cooler and glow plug harness all of which make it look a pure pain in the !Removed! to disconnect.

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Thanks mate, will keep that in mind. I'm moving in a weeks time though, so I've decided to just give it a full service and 2 new tyres next week and hope it does the next 6 months without any issues. If not then I guess I'll have no choice but to deal with it lol. New location will mean a lot more miles and fast roads so that may help with the DPF.

I'm afraid I haven't removed the inlet on one of these so I can't offer any advice. Does sound like a pain!!

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