Replacing alternator - what parts do I need?

[ThePowster]

Afternoon chaps and chapesses 🙂

OK so I am going to have a go at replacing the alternator myself. Can someone tell me what parts I will need ?

Obviously I will need an alternator and I'll check evilbay for that, but then I need an alternator belt, is it called that or auxiliary belt? and while I am there should I be looking to replace pullers and idlers and wotnot or do I just need the alternator itself?

Never undertaken this job before, so a little apprehensive but needs must if I wanna stay mobile.

Thanks in advance 🙂

[isetta]

I wouldn't replace belt and pulleys unless they need it, but you can't really tell until you take the belt off.  

when I replied to your previous query I mentioned the pulley on the alternator. how I know about that is because on my brother's 1.8tdci we thought the alternator needed replacing and he bought one (a 2nd hand one), then when we took the belt off we found it was the pulley at fault. 1.8tdci has an unusual alternator pulley setup but I know some alternators that have a conventional looking setup do have a one way clutch pulley also, but I don't know if it is all or just certain engines

So I wouldn't buy anything until investigated further, but I know that's easier said than done when you need the car every day. 

[ThePowster]

Thanks isetta.

OK so I have been to the car this morning and it's worse. 

Multimeter showed 12.25v at the battery, ignition click one took it down to 11.64v, maybe glow plugs heating? then when cranking it went down as low as 10.46v and when engine running it was quickly climbing the voltage to 12.64v then it started to drop off rapidly, it settled at 11.93v and after 20 seconds the battery symbol illuminated on the dash.

I turned the car off then back on and I was watching the volts on the dash this time from the test menu instead of the multimeter.

The display voltage show the engine idle was 11.6v, same as the multimeter, but when I revved it right round, it went to 13.4v but soon dropped again to resting 11.6v when I stopped revving the car. I tried to load the car with lights and rear demister, the front wouldn't come on which I think is normal when the battery light is on the dash, with lights and everything on under load it went down to 10.8v and it didn't increase in volts any when I revved the car.

So I am not sure what that tells us?

I still have my receipt for my battery and it had a 5 year guarantee so if that's gone I should get a replacement with any luck.

As a process of elimination what I will do later is take the battery from my brothers Mondeo and try that on the Focus, I think he has a smaller capacity battery on his as I went for a big one on mine YBX 510012v 75Ah 680A Yuasa Silver High Performance battery and it's been perfectly fine since I installed it May 17 but it's good enough for a 2.0 TDCi mondy.

If it charges fine and no battery symbol on the dash I'll know it's my battery at fault, if it's the same with no charge then I know it's alternator / charging system that's at fault.

With the car being 10 years old now and the alternator having a 10 year life according to the Haynes manual I will just replace everything, the alternator, the belt, but I am not sure what else I would need to buy, there is some smart charging wiring loom or something? I'd rather just replace it all and not have to worry again if it turns out to be that, hence wanting a shopping list so I can hit the credit card lol.

I'll report back later what the other battery does and if it was that or indeed the charging system.

Cheers 🙂

P.S. If you were a betting man would ya put ya money on it being the battery? Or alternator/charging system? 

[TomsFocus]

It's a 1.6TDCi right?

Firstly, unplug the Smart Charge plug on the alternator, that should default it back to 14v charging if there's a smart charge issue.

The 1.6 TDCi has a very simple belt run...  For the sake of £8, it's worth replacing the belt BUT the extra tension on the new belt often ruins the tensioner...I've made the mistake of just changing the belt...and then having to change the tensioner a week later, twice lol.  If you've recently had the timing belt done, you probably already have a new aux belt so iy wouldn't be worth changing in that case.

My money would be on the alternator personally.

[ThePowster]

Yep 1.6 TDCi 🙂

Hmm not sure what a smart charge on the alternator means 😞 Haynes manual doesn't go into any detail. But that sounds like a great way of identifying a problem. Do I just unplug whatever is on the alternator and start it up and see? Can I get access to do this with everything in situ?

Not done timing belt but it needs doing at 125k and mines 124k eeekkk lol but it's on my to-do list.

OK so if it turns out to be alternator I am best buying new:

Alternator

Aux belt

Alternator tensioner

And possibly smart charging wiring loom?

[TomsFocus]

Smart charge is a bit of electronics magic...   Basically, conventional alternators pump out 14.4v regardless, but SmartCharge (on all Fords from the early 2000s) raises this voltage when the battery is cold as that's when charging is most efficient and drops as it heats up...  When the system goes faulty, the voltage can be all over the place.  You will see just one plug on the alternator, remove it and see what the charge is then...be very careful not to touch the thick positive wire terminal when poking around there.

Oh wow, at 124k I'd be getting the timing belt done asap, you'll have to remove the aux belt for access to that anyway!!  

I've never had to replace a smartcharge loom, but obviously if you see it's broken or damaged then it'll need sorting.

[ThePowster]

Gulp.. thick black wire scared me ☠️ lol I'll be careful 

OK cool I will see if I can see it and have access and give that a go, if not I'll remove the battery just in case and start taking all the lovely bits off the car to give me access.

Seems strange how as soon as I put the IC back in after an IC repair this happens, I wonder if IC being off and battery being on could have caused this or an incorrectly soldered IC causing a short but again not sure how an IC could affect the battery itself so god knows. As you can see, I know nothing what I am on about haha.

Interesting to know what the smart charging thing does, thanks 🙂

I'll report back when I know more 🙂

[ThePowster]

Help! I need somebody Help! Not just anybody Help! You know I need someone Helllllllp!

I cant begin to tell you how fed up I am with this focus...

So i tried pulling the smart charge plug (thanks Tom) and nothing changed, car idling at 11.6v

I've done a lot today, took as much out as I could to get to the alternator but I cannot for the life of me remove this black thing.

This unit has things attached to it, I have snapped the tabs on them and still cant get them off as well as the 2 screws holding them on obv.

I dunno where its bolted on, I cannot see it, I've tried standing on my head, nothing.

The second image where I snapped a tab well the module below it I tried to undo that and the bolt head just sheered off, it was rusty, so if that was the bolt that holds it to the car am screwed.

Anyone know how to get this off please?

Thanks 🙂

Oh while i'm here, now the battery is removed is the earth wire on the alternator still a danger or am I safe to touch and remove it should I get passed this stage?

[ThePowster]

OK I got that noddy part off, it was a bolt underneath. My car is full of parts and I don't know what goes where 😂 i'm hoping it's plug n play when it comes to reassemble time.

So now I can see the top of the alternator, probably cant get it out through the top, so underbelly off and wheel and wheel arch liner and apparently I can unbolt it that way and pull it out.

So aside from an:

Alternator

Belt

I need this too and bobs ya uncle? 14.4v again?

[nicam49]

You shldnt really need a new tensioner unless yours is bad, and if you've a Ford one, it'll be good for ages yet. If you spin the pulley, is it noisy? then if yes, consider changing it or if the tensioner has a lot of movement in it when engine is running then change it, but Ford parts are far superior than pattern parts! My '02 Mondeo is still running on its original tensioner and it's done 311000 miles. I'd be surprised if your battery is bad, so why not give it a really good charge while you're tinkering with the oily bits,.... those voltage readings do sound like it needs it. 

[TomsFocus]

Ford don't make bearings, they buy them in from companies like INA.  You've done amazingly well to get 300k out of one, they usually fail and throw belts long before that!  

I would usually agree on not replacing parts for the sake of it, but I've had 2 on different cars that felt fine...until I fitted a new belt, then the extra tension of that ruined them and they sounded like a rollerskate within a few miles.  I changed them before they were able to seize though.  I've seen several examples of the aux belt snapping or getting shredded and taking out the cambelt with it.  

[nicam49]

True, but I meant buying a Ford part rather than a 'oem quality' or otherwise part., tho' my rear hub/bearings are SKF which I understand make 'em for Ford and have lasted 10 years now. 

[ThePowster]

Really interesting read fellas :) sharing great knowledge here.

Alternator ordered, that tensioner thing and I went to Halfrauds to get a alternator belt and they dont stock them, huh!? So I had to order one in for next Tuesday and I spotted they did 2 types, one for A/C and one without, something worth knowing when ya come to get a new belt because until today I thought it was just one belt lol.

I'm hoping it's not a big job now and the fact I have to go through where the front wheel is makes me wonder if I needed to take half the engine out in the first place, oh well it's been an education.

I'll be shocked if I manage to pull this off, fit a new one, put it all back together and it run and give me 14.4v   but they say dreams do sometimes come true lol.

[TomsFocus]

1 hour ago, nicam49 said:

True, but I meant buying a Ford part rather than a 'oem quality' or otherwise part., tho' my rear hub/bearings are SKF which I understand make 'em for Ford and have lasted 10 years now. 

I agree with not buying cheap parts, but these aren't Ford parts either though, the originals aren't even stamped FoMoCo so you're literally only paying for Ford branded packaging if you go to a dealer.  SKF, INA, SNR or even Gates and Dayco will all be absolutely fine.  Personally I wouldn't pay £30 for the Febi part in the eBay ad above but it might be alright, I just don't have any experience of Febi parts with bearings, they generally make rubber parts like seals and mounts.

[TomsFocus]

1 minute ago, ThePowster said:

Really interesting read fellas 🙂 sharing great knowledge here.

Alternator ordered, that tensioner thing and I went to Halfrauds to get a alternator belt and they dont stock them, huh!? So I had to order one in for next Tuesday and I spotted they did 2 types, one for A/C and one without, something worth knowing when ya come to get a new belt because until today I thought it was just one belt lol.

I'm hoping it's not a big job now and the fact I have to go through where the front wheel is makes me wonder if I needed to take half the engine out in the first place, oh well it's been an education.

I'll be shocked if I manage to pull this off, fit a new one, put it all back together and it run and give me 14.4v   but they say dreams do sometimes come true lol.

Halfords don't stock alternator belts any more...they just buy them from ECP lol.  I hope you didn't pay more than ECP prices for it!  

Well done so far anyway!  

[ThePowster]

Things ya learn lol middle men Halfrauds eh, shocking. Back in the day they used to sell parts not just car wax and air fresheners. It was 12 quid collect Tuesday.

Ta, taking it to bits not been bad, now I need to learn the zen and art of patients and assembly lol.

It was only a few months ago I was saying my Focus is super reliable, never let me down, since then I have had faulty instrument cluster, alternator go, now I need cambelt doing and I have 2 buckled wheels and insurance due Feb lol costing a fortune. Someone once said to me, whenever you have a woman or a car you'll never have any money, tru dat.

[TomsFocus]

Yeah that's a fair price, currently £11.69 on ECP after discount.   Even 10 years ago I remember Halfords stocking parts but not any more sadly, as you say it's all wax and air fresheners now lol!

Patience is definitely a virtue with cars...it's generally easier to put stuff back once you know how it comes apart though!  

[isetta]

"it's generally easier to put stuff back once you know how it comes apart though!" , particularly now we have cameras on phones to take pics in case we forget how it goes back. i remember years ago drawing diagrams. 

[nicam49]

 I'm so glad my mot's in June, which means I work on the car in warm weather. Hope you've got a nice warm garage to work in. Also, got a proper  jack? Don't rely on the cars own jack as they have a habit of collapsing...best put it on an axle stand too. 

[ThePowster]

Yep I filmed most of what I could with the camera phone so I have some reference for when it comes to putting everything back together.

I'll be working outside unfortunately in the rain 😞 Halfrauds sell this like large jigsaw foam square thing that clips together as a large mat, save me laying on the cold floor, so I guess I'll grab that later, another tenner down the swanny 

Yep got a proper trolly jack and axle stands too, so fingers crossed it's not too much of a job.

I'll either break it, or after all this it will still show 11v lol will see