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AUTOMATIC gearbox or POWERSHIFT, you should understand the difference before buying.


Dave May
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OK. 

Mine was always better after a service, but never 'great'. I think the wear/damage on my box had been done in the first 5 years, when Ford's recommendation was a service every 62500 miles. It started playing up intermittently at around 60k miles. 

If it's been playing up since shortly after its last service, I wonder if it's as simple as needing a top up of oil. I gather it's not a particularly straightforward job to get the level right. (I think I read there are two filler points and you have to run the gearbox in each gear (with the wheels up in the air) to make sure the oil has made its way into all the nooks and crannies. Might be worth trying that first, perhaps.

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3 minutes ago, alanfp said:

OK. 

Mine was always better after a service, but never 'great'. I think the wear/damage on my box had been done in the first 5 years, when Ford's recommendation was a service every 62500 miles. It started playing up intermittently at around 60k miles. 

If it's been playing up since shortly after its last service, I wonder if it's as simple as needing a top up of oil. I gather it's not a particularly straightforward job to get the level right. (I think I read there are two filler points and you have to run the gearbox in each gear (with the wheels up in the air) to make sure the oil has made its way into all the nooks and crannies. Might be worth trying that first, perhaps.

Thanks that’s good to know, it did start shortly after the service and I did start to think it’s always been like that, my mind playing tricks on me. It was done by a Ford garage but I will get the levels checked. Thank you

 

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Firstly, make sure the level is correct, when warm

Secondly, make sure they used the correct fluid

If it's still an issue after that then you my need to test the solenoids, one may be dirty/blocked or going down

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11 hours ago, DaveT70 said:

Firstly, make sure the level is correct, when warm

Secondly, make sure they used the correct fluid

If it's still an issue after that then you my need to test the solenoids, one may be dirty/blocked or going down

Thank you, I’ll check the level. Is that something I can do or is it a dealer job. I’ve checked the paperwork and they did use the correct oil, F1490761 and F1490763 plus filters.

andy

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12 hours ago, Awright101 said:

Thank you, I’ll check the level. Is that something I can do or is it a dealer job. I’ve checked the paperwork and they did use the correct oil, F1490761 and F1490763 plus filters.

andy

Put the model number of the transmission in youtube, there's videos of how to check

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On 7/14/2020 at 11:57 AM, Dave May said:

 

Hi Guy. I don’t agree that everybody wants an SUV. I thought that the latest trend is that SUV owners now realise how boring it is to sit high on 2 foot wheels like in a bus. What’s the fun in that. A nice big sporty estate is the in thing now.
 

I would also say that a £250 oil change is an unnecessary expense.
 

Hybrid cars are a stop gap just like the old analoge to digital tv boxes. They will be obsolete in a few years.
 

Full electric cars will be here soon and not powered by batteries, it will be Supercapacitors.
A Capacitor charges and discharges INSTANTLY. So a Supercapacitor ( that's a very very powerful capacitor ) could in theory take a car from 0 to 60 in 4 seconds then after slamming on the regenative brakes stop the car in 4 seconds with NO LOSS OF ELECTRIC POWER.

 

Very soon the Ford Mondeo Estate will have a bank of Supercapacitors under the cargo floor and will charge up instantly by the latest home charger which will consist of an even larger bank of Supercapacitors. The filling stations will obviously have extra large banks of  Supercapacitors to charge many cars instantly.
 

Did you know that the Chinese already have a supercapacitor powered bus.
 

I know I am from Essex so probably slightly wrong on all of this but read on Utube or Google.
1) Supercapacitors in cars.
2) Chinese Supercapacitor powered bus.
3) Regenative Brakes

 

Let me know what you think.

Sorry to go a bit off track but I assume I can buy a 2.0L Diesel Ecoblue Mondeo with torque converter auto anytime soon.
Keep Laughing 
Dave


 

You're right about moving from an SUV, I bought a Kia Sportage 4 years ago and am currently waiting to take delivery of a new Focus ST-Line X Estate, it does have the PS gear box so wondering how I will get on with that, I don't toe anything and 90% of the time im in the car alone.  sitting high up on the road has it's advantages, however rightly said it's boring.  i won't buy another SUV

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  • 4 months later...
On 7/12/2020 at 1:01 AM, richardc1983 said:

Thanks for the useful info, what will my March 2018 Focus 3.5 ST3 auto have fitted? It's  diesel and ford etis says it's the powershift one? Do I have to do this ridiculous service every 35k or 3 years? Just bought this car and pick up Tuesday from Ford it's got 15k on the clock. 

How can you find out what is fitted to your car. I have a 2008 2.0 tdci and a 2011 tdci. Both I took to the garage for a gearbox service and only one could be done as the service kits were different. I know or understand virtually nothing on these cars, I just need to know what car has what so I can source the right gearbox service kit

Thank you in advance 

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The 2008 Mondeo will have an Aisin Warner Transmission that does not have any official service requirements.

The 2011 Mondeo will have a Getrag Powershift 6DCT450 transmission that definitely does have a service requirement to have any chance of a decent life. It requires an oil and filter service every 3 years or 37,500 miles, whichever occurs first. Lots of videos on line on how to do a service correctly

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My Mondeo Torque Converter Automatic gearbox lasted for nearly 200,000 miles without any oil changes and I had no problems at all. I assume it was the Aisin Warner type. Reg number was LR54 FZD.

I sold it in May 2023 and now have another similar estate car with TC gearbox but not Ford.

One of the reasons that the gearbox lasted so long was because I NEVER SELECTED NEUTRAL AT THE LIGHTS.
 
I was advised many years ago to always keep an automatic car in D at the lights and hold using foot brake or handbrake. When holding the foot brake in D the Torque Converter output shaft is NOT ROTATING and all the gears are loaded ready to go. 

If N is selected at the lights a brake band inside the gearbox is released and TC output shaft is free to rotate and gears become loose.

When lights change and D is then selected the brake band immediately clamps a drum causing gears to be loaded again, which can cause a  noticeable jerk like a bump from car behind. This will get much worse as brake band wears. 

When in P ( PARK ) the gears are mechanically jammed with a pawl so cannot rotate. The engine can be tested at high revs with no problems for the gearbox.

The only time N should be used is when car is being towed and when in the car wash where car is dragged through.

So if you are test driving a used TC automatic car get the owner to select N at the lights and if there is any sign of a jerk when selecting D again DON’T BUY IT. 

Dave

 

        THIS IS A BRAKE BAND

 

IMG_5204.jpeg

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