Forgetting about the yellow MAP reading, I'm not sure what that is, If that screenshot was not taken at Idle then your Turbo is doing nothing.

The 100 kPa in the other one is atmospheric pressure, i.e. the intake air is not being compressed by the Turbo, which is the correct case at Idle but not when the car is being driven.

If the Turbo is working correctly and there are no air leaks then the MAP should get close to 250 ish kPa under extreme load while the car is being driven.

Does the MAP go up when the car is revved and or driven and if so is the reading steady at steady speed?

I'm not sure what other PID's there are for the Turbo, but the VNTP I presume is the Variable Vane position. If so then that should change when the engine is not at Idle.

When checking the PID's you need to click on them to see exactly what they mean because some of them nay be the commanded value rather than the actual if the do not have a feedback sensor. 

12 minutes ago, Tizer said:

Forgetting about the yellow MAP reading, I'm not sure what that is, If that screenshot was not taken at Idle then your Turbo is doing nothing.

The 100 kPa in the other one is atmospheric pressure, i.e. the intake air is not being compressed by the Turbo, which is the correct case at Idle but not when the car is being driven.

If the Turbo is working correctly and there are no air leaks then the MAP should get close to 250 ish kPa under extreme load while the car is being driven.

Does the MAP go up when the car is revved and or driven and if so is the reading steady at steady speed?

I'm not sure what other PID's there are for the Turbo, but the VNTP I presume is the Variable Vane position. If so then that should change when the engine is not at Idle.

When checking the PID's you need to click on them to see exactly what they mean because some of them nay be the commanded value rather than the actual if the do not have a feedback sensor. 

The VNT does change and goes up and down rapidly just before the error then it goes to nothing. I just done it at idle with some revs hence the lower MAP reading. I was unsure how I would be able to drive with it running or if it would save it afterwards.

That suggests there could be a problem with the mechanism that moves the Vanes. I don't have any experience with that engine but according to @TomsFocus it is vacuum operated and that could be the problem. It is worth double checking if that reading is a commanded one or an actual one based on a feedbank sensor.

You can run FORScan with the car moving, in fact I have often connected it up when at traffic lights before they changed to green You can save the journey but you need to be connected to the car to read it again because of the format that is is saved as.

What I do is after the journey is finished is I switch the engine off then close FORScan just once with the middle button of my phone. When I do that the journey is saved for days without connecting to the car and until my phone decides to dump it from its cache. You can play it back as many times as you want then. I also have a screen recorder that I sometimes use afterwards for things I want to keep.

The MAF reading in your screenshot at 15 does suggest that you were revving the engine a little. If the Turbo was working correctly then the MAP and MAF should go up and down more or less at the same time.   

19 minutes ago, Tizer said:

That suggests there could be a problem with the mechanism that moves the Vanes. I don't have any experience with that engine but according to @TomsFocus it is vacuum operated and that could be the problem. It is worth double checking if that reading is a commanded one or an actual one based on a feedbank sensor.

You can run FORScan with the car moving, in fact I have often connected it up when at traffic lights before they changed to green You can save the journey but you need to be connected to the car to read it again because of the format that is is saved as.

What I do is after the journey is finished is I switch the engine off then close FORScan just once with the middle button of my phone. When I do that the journey is saved for days without connecting to the car and until my phone decides to dump it from its cache. You can play it back as many times as you want then. I also have a screen recorder that I sometimes use afterwards for things I want to keep.

The MAF reading in your screenshot at 15 does suggest that you were revving the engine a little. If the Turbo was working correctly then the MAP and MAF should go up and down more or less at the same time.   

Thanks I will see if I get the chance tomorrow and will test during driving. You have to take the port cover/tray off its hinges or it hangs in front of the accelerator 🤣 It's payday tomorrow so might just get the mobile mechanic out while I'm working from home still.

It should not be anything too serious hopefully and just something mechanical. There is a certain satisfaction in understanding how things work and monitoring them for the time when things go wrong.

Even if the Vanes were not moving for whatever reason I would still expect some boost as measured by the MAP, but nowhere near the full amount.

It is a good idea to bring the PID's into play for RPM and Speed (probably VSS, Vehicle Service Speed) as well for reference when you are analysing the results. You can have lots of PID's open but after 9 on my Compact phone you need to either scroll or use the - button to make them smaller when looking at them. 

47 minutes ago, Tizer said:

It should not be anything too serious hopefully and just something mechanical. There is a certain satisfaction in understanding how things work and monitoring them for the time when things go wrong.

Even if the Vanes were not moving for whatever reason I would still expect some boost as measured by the MAP, but nowhere near the full amount.

It is a good idea to bring the PID's into play for RPM and Speed (probably VSS, Vehicle Service Speed) as well for reference when you are analysing the results. You can have lots of PID's open but after 9 on my Compact phone you need to either scroll or use the - button to make them smaller when looking at them. 

Thanks I will add them to it when I do it as I want to see this in action now as its very interesting. I hope it's just something mechanical too as miss the boost so bad.

Ok so had done the dashboard video the other day and found the shared file was not readable so grabbed it today whilst working on the car.

Before error

After error and going up a hill.

As you can see turbo is operational in the first one but then it completely dies.

I had the undercovers off today and the turbo is very awkward to get to at the bottom rear of the engine I would literly have to remove all pipes to get my head in there 🤣 all pipes look normal with no leaks.  I removed all codes for a test and it made it 1 mile with boost today I got my hopes up then it came back again.

The noise as per the video I posted earlier is from the boost pressure solenoid I removed the power and the noise ceased could this be what is giving the issue?

@Tizer

Shame it's not a 1.6 TDCi, turbo right at the front on those.

If the pipes going to the boost solenoid are all good then it would suggest the solenoid itself is the problem.  

The PCM will default to wide open vanes for minimum boost when in limp mode so that's a bit of a red herring on live data.

22 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Shame it's not a 1.6 TDCi, turbo right at the front on those.

If the pipes going to the boost solenoid are all good then it would suggest the solenoid itself is the problem.  

The PCM will default to wide open vanes for minimum boost when in limp mode so that's a bit of a red herring on live data.

Thanks it only costs about 20 quid so if that is the issue I will be happy 👍

This is where the turbo  is located who the hell thought of that 🤣

1 hour ago, F0CUE said:

Ok so had done the dashboard video the other day and found the shared file was not readable so grabbed it today whilst working on the car.

Before error

After error and going up a hill.

As you can see turbo is operational in the first one but then it completely dies.

I had the undercovers off today and the turbo is very awkward to get to at the bottom rear of the engine I would literly have to remove all pipes to get my head in there 🤣 all pipes look normal with no leaks.  I removed all codes for a test and it made it 1 mile with boost today I got my hopes up then it came back again.

The noise as per the video I posted earlier is from the boost pressure solenoid I removed the power and the noise ceased could this be what is giving the issue?

@Tizer

That is the most likely cause of the problem given the Data and your own diagnostics, if the Diaphragm or hoses were leaking I would expect the reading for the Vanes to be flapping around like a flounder before the car went into Limp Mode.

I notice that you have the wrong MAP PID up, must be a mistake in FORScan and I presume it stays at 10 all the time. The real MAP reading should have went up from 100 at Idle, following the MAF until the problem occurred, then it should have gone down quite a bit when there was no boost. I would also have expected the MAF to be more than 40 when going uphill at 50 mph if you were getting boost.

Now that you have FORScan it is a good idea to take some screenshots and or records of the important data like the above and Fuel Rail Pressure, DPF Differential Pressure etc etc when everything working properly for future reference in case something else goes wrong.

I had lots of them for my Mk2 and have just started doing so for my new car because the Warranty will be up next year and the last time I had a petrol car it had a Carburettor and Distributer, although the points switching was electronic so it was not that long ago😀 

14 minutes ago, Tizer said:

the last time I had a petrol car it had a Carburettor and Distributer, although the points switching was electronic so it was not that long ago

What do you mean ? if they don't have a carburettor and distributer how could they work !!!! You'll be telling me next that some cars have electric motors instead of engines  🤣

18 minutes ago, Tizer said:

That is the most likely cause of the problem given the Data and your own diagnostics, if the Diaphragm or hoses were leaking I would expect the reading for the Vanes to be flapping around like a flounder before the car went into Limp Mode.

I notice that you have the wrong MAP PID up, must be a mistake in FORScan and I presume it stays at 10 all the time. The real MAP reading should have went up from 100 at Idle, following the MAF until the problem occurred, then it should have gone down quite a bit when there was no boost. I would also have expected the MAF to be more than 40 when going uphill at 50 mph if you were getting boost.

Now that you have FORScan it is a good idea to take some screenshots and or records of the important data like the above and Fuel Rail Pressure, DPF Differential Pressure etc etc when everything working properly for future reference in case something else goes wrong.

I had lots of them for my Mk2 and have just started doing so for my new car because the Warranty will be up next year and the last time I had a petrol car it had a Carburettor and Distributer, although the points switching was electronic so it was not that long ago😀 

I probably picked the wrong MAF as there is 2 of them as  I'm new to doing this but it is very interesting. I love technical stuff and yes defo a good idea to keep screens to get an idea if something does go wrong again. Thanks for helping out 😁

Solved with another boost solenoid 10 quid at the scrappies it now moos when you turn it off 😂

2 hours ago, F0CUE said:

Solved with another boost solenoid 10 quid at the scrappies it now moos when you turn it off 😂

Excellent news, I do like a happy ending. I bet you end up like me and get obsessive about monitoring things with FORScan now😁

50 minutes ago, Tizer said:

Excellent news, I do like a happy ending. I bet you end up like me and get obsessive about monitoring things with FORScan now😁

More than likely 🤣 every time I open that tray and get my phone out the g/f rolls her eyes 😂 have you tried a static Dpf regen? It's pretty scary my G/F left quickly and got scared lol

2 hours ago, F0CUE said:

More than likely 🤣 every time I open that tray and get my phone out the g/f rolls her eyes 😂 have you tried a static Dpf regen? It's pretty scary my G/F left quickly and got scared lol

Yeah, it does get addictive. I did try the DPF Regen and it is a but unnerving.

I meant to say earlier that it might be a good idea to do a learning of the Turbo Vanes again now that things are back to normal.

55 minutes ago, Tizer said:

Yeah, it does get addictive. I did try the DPF Regen and it is a but unnerving.

I meant to say earlier that it might be a good idea to do a learning of the Turbo Vanes again now that things are back to normal.

Maybe a good idea but it is boosting great again 😁

For anyone else having this issue this is the part you need 6G9Q-9E882-CA there is different revisions mines had a B on the end not sure what the difference is but the new one worked fine. Its practically on the side of the block next to the battery above the intake pipe.

Hello, I have come here in hope one of you kind chaps can help.

I have had my post open for some time now (engine malfunction service now p2263 Also with loads of other fault codes, main one now is same as yours @F0CUE P2263

I have ordered the part above as you suggested in my post a few weeks ago, @Sam has also suggested this and has been so helpful so far. Its possible I have had two issues going on at the same time and one of them has hopefully been solved with a second hand PCM. Its just leaving me with the P2263 - Car is in limp mode and has no power/boost from the off and the EML light appears within 10 seconds.

I have run forscan live data for the variable nozzle turbo position and also its voltage. Mine seems absolutely dead. The VNTP% does not move and stays at 0.00, voltage shows 1.37 and hardly moves (1.37-1.39). Is this data for the turbo solenoid valve itself or for something else ?

Once the turbo solenoid valve arrives I will fit it, I am praying this works. If this does not solve the issue where else am I to look ?

Is it something else like the turbo itself or something stupid like a pipe/hose that was knocked off ?

The inlet manifold was replaced as they found a split on the seam which opened when revved from a smoke test, New MAP and MAF fitted, not sure what the correct readings should be but you can see it in the below pic, one at start up/idle the other a few minutes into driving.

Hopefully this works, just looking for ideas of it does not.

@TomsFocus@Tizer@unofix@MasterTechTip@Sam

16 minutes ago, Orsm99 said:

Hello, I have come here in hope one of you kind chaps can help.

I have had my post open for some time now (engine malfunction service now p2263 Also with loads of other fault codes, main one now is same as yours @F0CUE P2263

I have ordered the part above as you suggested in my post a few weeks ago, @Sam has also suggested this and has been so helpful so far. Its possible I have had two issues going on at the same time and one of them has hopefully been solved with a second hand PCM. Its just leaving me with the P2263 - Car is in limp mode and has no power/boost from the off and the EML light appears within 10 seconds.

I have run forscan live data for the variable nozzle turbo position and also its voltage. Mine seems absolutely dead. The VNTP% does not move and stays at 0.00, voltage shows 1.37 and hardly moves (1.37-1.39). Is this data for the turbo solenoid valve itself or for something else ?

Once the turbo solenoid valve arrives I will fit it, I am praying this works. If this does not solve the issue where else am I to look ?

Is it something else like the turbo itself or something stupid like a pipe/hose that was knocked off ?

The inlet manifold was replaced as they found a split on the seam which opened when revved from a smoke test, New MAP and MAF fitted, not sure what the correct readings should be but you can see it in the below pic, one at start up/idle the other a few minutes into driving.

Hopefully this works, just looking for ideas of it does not.

@TomsFocus@Tizer@unofix@MasterTechTip@Sam

Turbo vane position is measured using a sensor on the end of the actuator.  It's literally measuring how far the actuator rod moves to push or pull the vanes.

It is possible that sensor has been knocked during other work, though that data is showing just 4psi of boost at 3k, which means the vanes genuinely haven't moved much, and the position sensor reading is likely to be correct.  It is worth noting that the the vanes are opened as default during limp mode, so that may be confusing the issue here.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Turbo vane position is measured using a sensor on the end of the actuator.  It's literally measuring how far the actuator rod moves to push or pull the vanes.

It is possible that sensor has been knocked during other work, though that data is showing just 4psi of boost at 3k, which means the vanes genuinely haven't moved much, and the position sensor reading is likely to be correct.  It is worth noting that the the vanes are opened as default during limp mode, so that may be confusing the issue here.

@TomsFocus Thanks Tom for your input, appreciated. So does the VNTP% reading on my picture which displays 0.00 the whole time is because the vanes are open as default because of limp mode ?

Would changing the turbo boost solenoid if faulty sort this issue, or is it more to do with the actuator rod or sensor being knocked/faulty.

1 minute ago, Orsm99 said:

@TomsFocus Thanks Tom for your input, appreciated. So does the VNTP% reading on my picture which displays 0.00 the whole time is because the vanes are open as default because of limp mode ?

Would changing the turbo boost solenoid if faulty sort this issue, or is it more to do with the actuator rod or sensor being knocked/faulty.

Not a simple answer to that one I'm afraid.  I would trust the vane position sensor to be correct right now, and that the vanes physically aren't moving currently, given the MAP figures.

The vanes are only moved by vacuum, so if the solenoid is indeed faulty and not allowing vacuum through, then replacing that should mean that the vanes move correctly afterwards.

However, if they're not moving because of limp mode, then a solenoid change may not fix that.

I don't know what the VNTP% PID is using.  I would assume it's calculated from the voltage PID.  It's also possible that the percentage may just not be accessible on your car, and will always show 0 regardless.

I think it's best to wait until after the solenoid change to see what happens after that now.

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Not a simple answer to that one I'm afraid.  I would trust the vane position sensor to be correct right now, and that the vanes physically aren't moving currently, given the MAP figures.

The vanes are only moved by vacuum, so if the solenoid is indeed faulty and not allowing vacuum through, then replacing that should mean that the vanes move correctly afterwards.

However, if they're not moving because of limp mode, then a solenoid change may not fix that.

I don't know what the VNTP% PID is using.  I would assume it's calculated from the voltage PID.  It's also possible that the percentage may just not be accessible on your car, and will always show 0 regardless.

I think it's best to wait until after the solenoid change to see what happens after that now.

Thanks mate

look at your barometric pressure sensor it seems to be stuck at 101kPa migh have something to do with the map sensor that's just my 2 cents worth 

Barometric pressure is ambient air pressure.  That won't change much over a drive.  Will change slightly day to day but always be around 100kPa (1 bar).

As far as I know, the baro sensor is integrated inside the PCM, not separate like MAP & MAF.