4 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

I just changed the turbo and I want to know if the oil feed is working correctly but don’t want to switch the engine on just want to crank it over

Ah ok.  Pulling the fuel pump fuse would be the safest option for that.

5 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Ah ok.  Pulling the fuel pump fuse would be the safest option for that.

Ahhh yes why didn’t I think of that 🤯🤣 thanks!

Can I use a substitute hose for this one as I can’t remould the end of it to fit the connector and what’s its use? (Pipe from top of the coolant tank)

4 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Can I use a substitute hose for this one as I can’t remould the end of it to fit the connector and what’s its use? (Pipe from top of the coolant tank)

You can use an alternative hose but it would have to be as strong & rigid as the original.  It's a degas hose, allows hot coolant/steam from the engine to flow back into the tank.  

Genuine Ford Fiesta Courier 1.0 EcoBoost Expansion Tank To Block Pipe 1848679 | eBay

Is it possible to drive the car without it? As I’ve done the turbo at my work and was finishing up and put pressure on it without realising and it just cracked 😤

2 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Is it possible to drive the car without it? As I’ve done the turbo at my work and was finishing up and put pressure on it without realising and it just cracked 😤

It's a pretty crucial pipe unfortunately.

The engine will run but the coolant won't be pressurised, it'll boil, and you'll be risking uneven head temps and potentially HGF.

If you can tape it back together securely and only have a short distance to cover then it might hold, but i wouldn't risk it on this engine myself.

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

It's a pretty crucial pipe unfortunately.

The engine will run but the coolant won't be pressurised, it'll boil, and you'll be risking uneven head temps and potentially HGF.

If you can tape it back together securely and only have a short distance to cover then it might hold, but i wouldn't risk it on this engine myself.

No problem and I thought it pressurised it so I didn't want to risk it so it stayed and will be there till Tuesday 😫 and you don’t happen to know if I can use something other than the OBDlink EX for the For scan?

10 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

No problem and I thought it pressurised it so I didn't want to risk it so it stayed and will be there till Tuesday 😫 and you don’t happen to know if I can use something other than the OBDlink EX for the For scan?

That's inconvenient but I think you made the right choice. 

For Forscan, you can use a V-Linker cable or dongle for around £35 or a Tunnelrat ELM cable or dingle for around £20.  There are different options for each of those, depending on whether you're going to use it with a laptop or a smartphone/tablet.  And whether you intend to use it on newer models or do any heavier work with it in future, such as programming.

ELM cable/dongles - ELM327 (fwscart.com)

V-Linker cable - Vgate vLinker FS OBD2 USB Adapter for FOR-Scan HS/MS-CAN Auto Switch : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

V-Linker dongle for Android - Vgate OBDII Bluetooth, vLinker FD OBD Scanner OBD2 Diagnostic Tool Check Engine Light for Android & Windows (Bluetooth 3.0) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

V-Linker dongle for iPhone - Vgate OBDII Bluetooth vLinker FD+ OBD Scanner OBD2 Diagnostic Tool Check Engine Light for Android IOS & Windows (Bluetooth 4.0) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

On 8/13/2023 at 10:24 AM, TomsFocus said:

ELM cable/dongles - ELM327 (fwscart.com)

Thanks! Ordered this one and you don’t happen to know if it’s the fuse I pull for fuel pump or relay? 

or if it’s this one in the passenger compartment

 

Can pull either F34 or the relay.  Both should give the same results.

I wouldn't pull the PCM fuse as that may stop the starter motor as well.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Can pull either F34 or the relay.  Both should give the same results.

I wouldn't pull the PCM fuse as that may stop the starter motor as well.

No problem thanks again going to try it as my order for the radiator overflow pipe got cancelled so bought one from Ford 

Now the good old oil light has come on after a drive for 10 minutes after it was fixed literally Parked up outside the house and I seen it come on as I switched the car off so I switched it back on and engine started making weird sounds like it couldn’t idle properly 

11 hours ago, Fordy8888 said:

Now the good old oil light has come on after a drive for 10 minutes after it was fixed literally Parked up outside the house and I seen it come on as I switched the car off so I switched it back on and engine started making weird sounds like it couldn’t idle properly 

That's really not a good sign.    Is there any oil leaking visibly?  Maybe forgot to tighten the oil feed or drain pipes on the new turbo?  How much is on the dipstick?

The VCT mechanism relies on oil pressure so the cam timing goes wrong without enough oil pressure.  That may explain the rough idle.

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

That's really not a good sign.    Is there any oil leaking visibly?  Maybe forgot to tighten the oil feed or drain pipes on the new turbo?  How much is on the dipstick?

The VCT mechanism relies on oil pressure so the cam timing goes wrong without enough oil pressure.  That may explain the rough idle.

No oil leaks and nothing around the turbo that I can see of also could it be possible that the oil pressure sensor is bad? Or is it more likely that the belts particles have blocked the oil pump up just strange that it’s all happened right after getting the turbo fixed it’s been sat since Thursday as well and it all seemed fine driving back and I had a little drive down the motorway and back then parked up and it came on so I quickly turned it off and turned it back on as I thought I was seeing things 😅

3 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

No oil leaks and nothing around the turbo that I can see of also could it be possible that the oil pressure sensor is bad? Or is it more likely that the belts particles have blocked the oil pump up just strange that it’s all happened right after getting the turbo fixed it’s been sat since Thursday as well and it all seemed fine driving back and I had a little drive down the motorway and back then parked up and it came on so I quickly turned it off and turned it back on as I thought I was seeing things 😅

If the engine's rattling and not idling properly then that does sound like genuine low oil pressure rather than a faulty oil pressure switch.  If you do want to check the switch, it's the one with the green plug just above the oil filter at the back of the engine.

 

It is possible that the oil pump is clogged with bits of belt.  Or even that the oil pump belt has failed.  (Though that is rare compared to the cambelt failing).  Best option would be removing the sump to check the oil pump belt is still intact and to check the oil pump strainer for belt debris.   

Would you know roughly the price to check the pump as it’s getting quite a lot now to keep the car I’ve informed my finance company and emailed Ford telling them how ridiculous these engines are 😂 whether they do anything about it is another story haha but if the oil pump is blocked will it have done damage to the engine also or the turbo? 

12 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Would you know roughly the price to check the pump as it’s getting quite a lot now to keep the car I’ve informed my finance company and emailed Ford telling them how ridiculous these engines are 😂 whether they do anything about it is another story haha but if the oil pump is blocked will it have done damage to the engine also or the turbo? 

It's free to check if you can do the work yourself, just takes a bit of time.  Though you may need to pay for alternative work transport and a few more tools (jack & axle stands etc).

I'm sure Ford CRC now just laugh at all the 'EcoBoosts suck' emails they must receive each week.

Very difficult to say if any engine damage may have been caused.  If it had happened on the motorway then yes, but as it was only a few seconds at idle then probably get away with it.

If you can check the oil pump belt and strainer yourself then there's no obligation to repair it if it is broken.  Just put the sump back on and sell as spares or repairs.

As you can change a turbo, I'm sure you're capable of dropping the sump.

13 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

It's free to check if you can do the work yourself, just takes a bit of time.  Though you may need to pay for alternative work transport and a few more tools (jack & axle stands etc).

I'm sure Ford CRC now just laugh at all the 'EcoBoosts suck' emails they must receive each week.

Very difficult to say if any engine damage may have been caused.  If it had happened on the motorway then yes, but as it was only a few seconds at idle then probably get away with it.

If you can check the oil pump belt and strainer yourself then there's no obligation to repair it if it is broken.  Just put the sump back on and sell as spares or repairs.

As you can change a turbo, I'm sure you're capable of dropping the sump.

Hahaha that’s what I was thinking when I sent the email but I got ChatGPT to write it and I altered it a bit 🤣🤣 and also I would do the work myself but it’s dropping the oil and things like that it’s very time consuming and I could only really do it at my work on a weekend and I don’t usually have much time to work on it as it’s done on my breaks and can you not just use a slide hammer to take out the strainer I’ll try find the video of it on YouTube someone just pulled it right out and all the blocked oil fell out with it and he just washed it all out and it was like new but would I need to change the timing belt as well or could I just leave it

this is the video if you skip to 19:30 it’s what I was talking about with the slide hammer 

Dropping the oil is the easy part lol. Exhaust downpipe is likely to be the hard part of bolts are rusted.  Then it's just a load of little sump bolts.

If the timing belt is degrading then it will snap at some point. Cleaning out the strainer doesn't make the belt last any longer.

Do you work at a garage?  (Don't have to answer, just being nosey lol)

19 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Dropping the oil is the easy part lol. Exhaust downpipe is likely to be the hard part of bolts are rusted.  Then it's just a load of little sump bolts.

If the timing belt is degrading then it will snap at some point. Cleaning out the strainer doesn't make the belt last any longer.

Do you work at a garage?  (Don't have to answer, just being nosey lol)

Hahah nope it’s a metal heat treatment place, I wish I did tbh then I’d have ramps and things that makes it easier haha and only reason it’s hard is I don’t have any axle stands or anything to get a bit of room under it last time I did the exhaust I put the car in the air with pallet sides and drove up them like steps 😅😂 but I have major claustrophobia 😂 also if I do get round to doing it does the sump need some sealant on it or is it a gasket ?

I think the bolts may not be too bad as it looked like someone had already been at the front for something so maybe its already been dropped before 🤔 as the bolts on the turbo was all different 1 is a bolt and a nut 2 are the original and one was missing and rather easy to take off and the o2 sensor was majorly cross threaded and on my MOT it says “front end damage not too excess” or something like that and when I bought it it had a ST front number so I don’t know if it means the bumper was damaged or if the crash bar or something was damaged

Ah, that's a shame lol.

The sump uses a liquid gasket.

Don't think I'd want to try the slide hammer trick with the car on pallets and my face next to it!

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Ah, that's a shame lol.

The sump uses a liquid gasket.

Don't think I'd want to try the slide hammer trick with the car on pallets and my face next to it!

 

Hahah yeah I know if I take the pump out can I clean it that way too 

20 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

Hahah yeah I know if I take the pump out can I clean it that way too 

Hmm.  Not sure if you can remove the pump without removing the wet belts first.  The pickup isn't separate on these pumps unfortunately.

33 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Hmm.  Not sure if you can remove the pump without removing the wet belts first.  The pickup isn't separate on these pumps unfortunately.

A plastic cover clips off revealing the oil pump belt. Slip the belt off the pump. Three bolts holding the pump to the block. Good idea to also unbolt the baffle.

Clear and clean the pump gauze filter with plenty of brake cleaner, small brushes, tweezers, whatevers available. Make sure the outer area of the gauze (hard to see) is clear.

Back flush the pump itself with brake cleaner. Shake it all out and let dry. Clean the crap off the baffle upper surface.

Refit the baffle and pump, slide the belt back on to the middle of the cog then clip the plastic cover back on.

(Oil pump belt can't be replaced like this. Don't bodge the job by removing the pickup).