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Rattle/ticking noise + intermittent power loss

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A more detailed info

 



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  • Author
1 hour ago, Tony Roman said:

A more detailed info

 

Funnily enough I watched this before I posted haha but didn’t think it was this as I wasn’t getting codes but thanks anyway 🙂

  • Author

So I got the part and changed it but I still seem to have some power loss not major but enough to notice and instead of a BOV like sound I get a rattle in place of it I can hear the turbo working but no noise after as I have a forge air filter kit so I used to be able to hear it louder but now nothing apart from the rattle

  • Author

@RayC333 any idea why the part with have done the same thing again after driving on the motorway? It was running okay at first but with some power loss still and then again it bogged down on the motorway and I checked it again and it’s in 2 pieces again

Not really. The diaphragm breaking so soon could only indicate it's of poor quality. The only force acting on it is the vacuum pump and that's not likely to have increased in power. May be someone could suggest a different reason. 

Just so we cover all the angles:

Did you fit a new diaphragm to the original plastic housing or a ready assembled one?

If it was just the diaphragm, are you sure it was fitted with the nipple facing towards the pump? 

Is the replacement diaphragm orange in colour (as per the original) or black?

If you get hold of the actuator rod to the turbo, can you easily move it back and forth (against the normal spring pressure)?

  • Author
1 hour ago, RayC333 said:

Did you fit a new diaphragm to the original plastic housing or a ready assembled one?

I bought the whole valve from eBay-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175551884277?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=x1sqau4wsck&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=e1ypi8bjrjg&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

1 hour ago, RayC333 said:

Is the replacement diaphragm orange in colour (as per the original) or black?

Yeah it looks identical to the old one.

1 hour ago, RayC333 said:

If you get hold of the actuator rod to the turbo, can you easily move it back and forth (against the normal spring pressure)?

I tried earlier and it seems like you can move it a tiny bit but it seems stiff(engine off) and something at the end of it going to the turbo sounded loose but I didn’t want to force it

I’ve put it back together and it seems like it’s holding for now just when you go on the motorway and try to get to 70 you feel it come apart again because  you loose a lot of acceleration

The actuator rod should move smoothly upward against spring pressure with the engine off. If you get someone to rev the engine a few times you should be able to observe a smooth movement upward and down at each cycle.

If it's a problem with the turbo's mechanical valve or linkage it will be hard to verify without dropping the exhaust downpipe.

I'm not sure what you mean about 'putting it back together' or 'feel it come apart'. If the new diaphragm has failed in any way it would be useless.

 

  • Author
5 hours ago, RayC333 said:

The actuator rod should move smoothly upward against spring pressure with the engine off. If you get someone to rev the engine a few times you should be able to observe a smooth movement upward and down at each cycle.

If it's a problem with the turbo's mechanical valve or linkage it will be hard to verify without dropping the exhaust downpipe.

I'm not sure what you mean about 'putting it back together' or 'feel it come apart'. If the new diaphragm has failed in any way it would be useless.

 

When it falls apart you can feel the engine bog down at that moment is what I meant and it’s like it’s being blown apart as in the plastic cap that holds the diaphragm in place keeps coming out and falling into the pump and I messaged the seller as it has 5 year warranty but now you mentioned about the actuator it’s not smooth at all it goes in and out really quick in a single rev even when the valve is in one piece🤔

Of course the valve assembly shouldn't come apart that easily. Fortunately it can't go right into the pump.

Does it look as though there is much oil around in the pump itself? My original one was coughing oil out with the valve removed (engine running). Maybe it's a problem with the pump itself although you don't mention any problem with brake efficiency (assistance comes off the same pump).

I think it may be normal for the turbo actuator rod to quickly cycle back and forth a short amount at tickover. Will check on my own engine when I have a chance. However, the actuator rod should move smartly up when the revs are significantly increased (that closes the turbo mechanical valve in normal usage).

  • Author

@RayC333 I mean there’s a fair bit of oil like where the valve sits and it goes narrow as you state “it can’t go right into the pump” it’s full of oil in that part 🤔 but I thought this was normal so I’m not sure I can get a picture tomorrow and I will try to video the actuator and I don’t seem to have any problem with my brakes apart from the fact they keep squeaking and need changing 🤣

On 7/3/2023 at 11:42 PM, Fordy8888 said:

I’m not too sure if this has been done as I bought it close to 100k (probably not) but could that be a reason for the noise/power loss?

It’s possible it’s jumped a tooth 

  • Author
11 hours ago, Raymond b said:

It’s possible it’s jumped a tooth 

😱I hope not and the dealership said they serviced the car before I bought it, they did stamp the service book but I just hope they used the correct oil but it’s going in to the garage on Monday🫣

Whilst one might expect some oil misting in the vacuum pump, I don't believe it's normal to be 'full of oil'.

The oil will have leaked from the exhaust camshaft area past the vacuum pump bearing into the working chamber.

The pump is designed to evacuate air and not oil. This may also be the cause of the valve parts separating, the oil effectively creating an hydraulic lock.

My feeling is you need a replacement vacuum pump, but no doubt the garage mechanics will suss the underlying problem and sort it for you.

  • Author
On 7/15/2023 at 9:41 PM, RayC333 said:

Whilst one might expect some oil misting in the vacuum pump, I don't believe it's normal to be 'full of oil'.

The oil will have leaked from the exhaust camshaft area past the vacuum pump bearing into the working chamber.

The pump is designed to evacuate air and not oil. This may also be the cause of the valve parts separating, the oil effectively creating an hydraulic lock.

My feeling is you need a replacement vacuum pump, but no doubt the garage mechanics will suss the underlying problem and sort it for you.

sorry for the late reply but I took the car to the garage today and they put it on a scanner and said it’s getting a error for turbo actuator but he said this could be showing up Because of the pump not being fully functional and I probably need a new pump and I’ve looked and they are over £400 🤮 and also I looked again today at the new part I got and it looks as though it’s melting could this be the fact the engine is not cooling properly? Or just a cheap part?

 

IMG_0948.jpeg

Why don't you try to replace it /the valve/ once again with a more expensive one before baying new pump?

Unless it's just the photo, it doesn't look like the original orange silicone one.

  • Author
29 minutes ago, Tony Roman said:

Why don't you try to replace it /the valve/ once again with a more expensive one before baying new pump?

You mean still from eBay?

4 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

Unless it's just the photo, it doesn't look like the original orange silicone one.

That’s just the end of the valve with no silicone attached like this⬇️

IMG_0943.jpeg

Yes, sorry, I can see that now. Looks like it's made of plastic that won't take the heat.

You could try another one but they all look the same to me - from China.

You can get a more expensive diaphragm only on eBay. They originate from Ukraine and that's what I bought originally (which did work). This means however that you need a sound valve housing and that one you have there doesn't look up to it.

I eventually bought a new pump as too much oil leaking in and affecting the valve. I was lucky and got a new old stock one for about £170.

25 minutes ago, Fordy8888 said:

You mean still from eBay?

 

IMG_0943.jpeg

What about genuine Ford part or if it is not available try to find different ones even second hand but still in good health.

https://m.autodoc.co.uk/pierburg/7939303

Nb. Can't buy a separate Ford valve or diaphragm.

  • Author
33 minutes ago, Tony Roman said:

Yeah they’re the same and that’s same with mine @RayC333 full of oil so maybe time for a new one then just so expensive 

You have to be 100% sure otherwise you may have 2 pumps and still the same problem. It frequently happens ... It is worth trying with another working pump first and then buy 

28 minutes ago, Tony Roman said:

You have to be 100% sure otherwise you may have 2 pumps and still the same problem. It frequently happens ... It is worth trying with another working pump first and then buy 

I tend to agree but even the used ones on eBay are expensive 🙁

Tomorrow I will remove the valve from my pump (which is approx 18 months old) and see if it's normal to have oil being expelled.

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