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2.0 TDCi Service Now & limp mode on acceleration/under load


ssmith93
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Hi, my first post on here and i'm desperately hoping that there are some experts lurking on this forum who will be able to give me some advice!

I recently purchased a used 2018 Kuga in a private sale with the 2.0L TDCi engine (T7MD). This engine (T7MA, T7MB, T7MD) is also used in the Mondeo, Galaxy and Focus. It has done a lot of miles (150k), I usually run high mileage cars, my others are an Audi A5 petrol with 220k on the clock, and a fiesta with 150k.

Description of the issue:

  • When the engine is warm, when driving at 70mph in 5th or 6th gear, if I hit a hill or try to accelerate, basically do anything to put the engine under load, I get the 'Engine service Now' light come on and limp mode.
  • If i keep trying to accelerate it goes into full limp mode and I have to slow down to 40mph and change gear to get it back. If I let off the accelerator and change down a gear then it behaves fine and the limp mode is only temporary, with the engine light clearing soon after.
  • Car behaves normally and drives fine around town and in the lower gears.

Diagnostics so far:

  • Have had a complete range of codes. I don't get the same ones each time, I reset them each time and it can be different every time. All of them seem to be airflow related but not isolated to before or after the engine. Have tested originally with a simple ODB2 device but now using FORscan. List of codes so far below:
  • P007C Charge air cooler temp sensor circuit low bank 1 (come up multiple times)
  • P0100 mass or volume air flow sensor A circuit (come up multiple times)
  • P2454 particulate filter pressure sensor A circuit low (come up multiple times)
  • P0107 Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure sensor circuit low (come up multiple times)
  • P2599 Turbocharger boost control position sensor A performance stuck high (only came up once)
  • P2000 NOx absorber efficiency below threshold Bank 1 (only come up once)
  • P0299 - Turbo A underboost condition. (Appeared only once on the first start after changing the fuel filter. not appeared since.)
  • Traction control light also comes on sometimes with the report on FORscan saying '===ABS DTC U0401:00-28=== Code: U0401 - Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM A
  • Gear Lever Position Sensor Circuit High AND Low -  Get these for both the Y position sensor and X position sensor. I don't really understand why but these show on FORscan on startup, I don't get engine warning lights etc for them. I expect these are unrelated to my issue.

What I have tried so far:

  • Changed Fuel Filter - Old one was a bit dirty but nothing terrible.
  • Inspected Air Filter - Was serviced recently (1 month ago), filter is clean consistent with that. Refitted.
  • DPF: Checked status and last regen - DPF reads 7% and the last regen was successful at 150 miles ago (I did a 500 mile journey last week so that makes sense).
  • Removed & Cleaned MAF sensor.
  • Removed & Cleaned Throttle body - Looked fine, not clogged and leaf moves well.
  • Removed & Cleaned Manifold inlet & the pipe from the EGR valve to the manifold inlet - Was expecting maybe serious clogging. I found moderate clogging of the smaller pipe from EGR valve to manifold inlet, however the manifold inlet was fine (some minor oily carbon build up but nothing affecting airflow). Also inspected manifold itself, on this model it is built into the cylinder head, it appears fine with just some normal oily coating, can see the lumen clearly and no clogging or obstructions to airflow.

Thoughts & research so far:

  • Vacuum Problem - No signs of vaccum issue when on the driveway or when driving, I don't hear anything unusual.
  • Sensor Problem - I struggle to believe this given the wide variety of codes that I have experienced here, affecting sensors both before and after the engine.
  • Turbocharger problem - Given that a lot of the codes are airflow related, however when I monitor the turbo behaviour on live data on FORscan it seems to be normal.
  • EGR Valve problem - Similar symptoms reported with EGR valve problems, however I have no codes which correspond to the EGR valve and when monitoring behaviour on FORscan it seems to be normal. One person I have come across had an issue where there was an issue with the seal in the EGR valve which caused a vaccum leak. Expensive part so replacing it 'just to see' isn't really an option.
  • oil Solenoid - Similar symptoms reported on forums with faulty oil solenoids, but my codes don't seem to correspond with that being the issue.
  • Faulty Powertrain Control Module - This as I understand is a very rare thing, but given the range of codes coming up it might be worth considering later. There are some reports of it getting wet and causing issues.
  • Wiring harness/wiring - I thought this was a possibility at first given the numerous and varied fault codes coming up, however my issues are consistently associated with the engine being under load at certain speeds above 50mph and the codes almost all relate to airflow, i'm not sure this is very likely.

 

I am not really sure what I should try next. I would be really very grateful for anyones expertise or experience on here who has any advice they can lend me.

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11 minutes ago, ssmith93 said:

Hi, my first post on here and i'm desperately hoping that there are some experts lurking on this forum who will be able to give me some advice!

Now don't be shy, give us as much info as you can about the problem 👍

 

Oh !!! just realised you did 🤣🤣

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31 minutes ago, unofix said:

Now don't be shy, give us as much info as you can about the problem 👍

 

Oh !!! just realised you did 🤣🤣

Haha people like me don't help the waiting time in the doctors surgery!!! 🤣

 

I was hoping that by providing as much info as I could it would help but I appreciate it might be a bit of information overload!!

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Are you using FORScan to read the DTC's ?

Just thinking that perhaps using the phone version with live monitoring may help you see what happens when the problem occurs.

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So, update from this afternoons test.

I am using FORScan on a laptop on the passenger seat via one of the reccomended USB adapters. I have recorded the live view data from quite a range of sensors over multiple episodes of the problem, and so far I haven't observed any peculiar sensor behaviour as I had expected that I might.

I took it out this afternoon (I only did the EGR and throttle bits this morning) for another test drive, same issues persist.

This afternoons codes on FORScan:

  • P06A6 - Sensor Ref Voltage 'A' Circuit Range/Performance
  • P082B - Gear lever X position sensor circuit low
  • P082C - Gear lever X position sensor circuit high
  • P082F - Gear lever Y position sensor circuit low
  • P08A0 - Gear lever Y position sensor 2 circuit range/performance
  • P082D - Gear lever Y position sensor 2 circuit range/performance
  • P0103 - MAF Sensor 'A' Circuit High
  • ABS U0401 - Invalid data from PCM A

Reset them all, then went for it again, same issues, this time:

  • P06A6 - Sensor Ref Voltage 'A' Circuit Range/Performance
  • P082C - Gear lever X position sensor circuit high
  • P08A0 - Gear lever Y position sensor 2 circuit range/performance
  • ABS U0401 - Invalid data from PCM A

 

So i'm beginning to think that this might actually be a wiring harness or PCM issue. The gear position sensor faults I have had even when the vehicle is stationary (they don't show on OBD2 but do show on FORScan). So far I have written them off as not-relevant but perhaps I am missing something here.

If I could get the wiring diagram for the PCM harness, I presume I could work out if there is a common point where all of the faults I am experiencing are connected.

1. Any ideas where I might source such a diagram? 

2. Is Gear Lever Position Sensor is connected to the engine wiring loom?

Pending any pointers or advice from here, I think my next port of call will be to check the PCM under the passenger footwell, to see if there is water ingress or anything apparent with the connections.

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2 hours ago, ssmith93 said:

So i'm beginning to think that this might actually be a wiring harness

That looks like the main earth bond between the chassis and the gearbox is broken or corroded.

2 hours ago, ssmith93 said:

1. Any ideas where I might source such a diagram? 

Yes. The genuine Ford schematic of the 2019 Kuga is available for download on my Google drive. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uxzpMeiOPk9R3CiKgHT6eJ2_gRCg83Px/view?usp=sharing

2 hours ago, ssmith93 said:

2. Is Gear Lever Position Sensor is connected to the engine wiring loom?

Yes, you will be able to see the harness on the schematic.

Download the zip file from my drive and unzip it in to a folder. Open the file with adobe and go to the last file which is the index for the schematics.

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Hi @unofix

Thanks ++ for the wiring schematic, that is really helpful.

Quote

That looks like the main earth bond between the chassis and the gearbox is broken or corroded.

Do you think it is likely that would be causing all of my issues or just the gear lever related ones.

Where would I locate the main earth bond between the chassis & gearbox in order to inspect it?

Thanks very much for your advice so far, I genuinely really appreciate it!

 

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16 minutes ago, ssmith93 said:

Do you think it is likely that would be causing all of my issues or just the gear lever related ones.

Probably just the gear related, but you can never be sure.

16 minutes ago, ssmith93 said:

Where would I locate the main earth bond between the chassis & gearbox in order to inspect it?

That's a very good question, but I don't know the answer. There may just be one main earth between the engine and the chassis. I don't have any other info on your Kuga's wiring 🤔

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12 minutes ago, unofix said:

Probably just the gear related, but you can never be sure.

That's a very good question, but I don't know the answer. There may just be one main earth between the engine and the chassis. I don't have any other info on your Kuga's wiring 🤔

Ok, well it is a good start! Strangely I cannot find any mention of a 'gear lever position sensor' on any of the sheets or wiring diagrams that you provided.

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10 minutes ago, ssmith93 said:

I cannot find any mention of a 'gear lever position sensor' on any of the sheets or wiring diagrams that you provided.

There may be a Neutral Position Sensor on the Gearbox and this is what the Fault Codes may be referring to, I do not think there are Position Sensors for every Gear.

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As far as I know, it's only automatics that have a gear lever position sensor.  (Confusingly called a manual lever position sensor, or MLPS for short).

So those fault codes could be red herrings.  Or they could be triggered by some sort of electronic fault.

Do you know which gearbox you have?

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I appreciate your reply, that is really useful to consider @TomsFocus.

Mine is a 6-speed manual AWD. I believe it is the MMT6 gearbox on my car but I can get under it to get the code if that would help things.

It would be handy to know if an MLPS exists on my car as then we will know if it is a red herring or not. I haven't managed to find any mention on the wiring diagrams I have access to currently.

Closest I can find is this (Ebay Link) which says it fits my car, although I can't see from any diagrams where!

If it doesn't have a MLPS, then how does the car know what gear it is in (i.e when the dashboard wants to tell me to change up/down a gear)?

 

 

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The dashboard gear icon works without an MLPS.  Gear ratios are fixed so the PCM can easily calculate which gear you're in by just comparing road speed with the engine RPM.

However, it looks like there may be an MLPS on that gearbox.  Sadly the catalogue doesn't cover as far as 2018, and oddly it's labeled as a solenoid, but it seems to be this one - 1747932.

https://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l=bWFya2V0PT1ldXJvfHxjYXRfaWQ9PTExMTI4fHxjYWJicj09R0NCU3x8dGhrPT0zfHxzdD09NjB8fHN0cz09eyIyMCI6IkV1cm9wZSIsIjMwIjoiS3VnYSBDQlMgMjAxMy0iLCI0MCI6IjMgUG93ZXJ0cmFpbiIsIjUwIjoiMzA3MDMgUG93ZXJ0cmFpbi5NYW51YWwgVHJhbnNtaXNzaW9uIiwiNjAiOiIzMDcwMzA3QSBNYW51YWwgVHJhbnNtaXNzaW9uIEV4dGVybmFsIENtcG50cyJ9fHxUUj09VFJWVDB8fGFscGhhPT0zfHxncm91cD09MzA3MDN8fHNlY3Q9PTc0MzAxNUJFVjIyfHxzZXQ9PUNNTVQ2MzA3MDN8fGltZz09RjAyODA1ODIwMXx8ZjEyPT0tNDc3OTQ1MjcwKzEzMw%3D%3D

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Hmm..

My challenge now is to try and work out where abouts it is on the car!

This is the box https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335340075015

Looks like this is the sensor here in this photo, I wonder if it is accessible from the engine bay or if I will need to go under the car.

I suppose I can do a visual inspection and it might be worth me unplugging it and seeing what codes I get. Will also be helpful to see what loom it comes off.

 

 

 

Screenshot 2024-05-08 at 22.31.17.png

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11 hours ago, ssmith93 said:

Hmm..

My challenge now is to try and work out where abouts it is on the car!

This is the box https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335340075015

Looks like this is the sensor here in this photo, I wonder if it is accessible from the engine bay or if I will need to go under the car.

I suppose I can do a visual inspection and it might be worth me unplugging it and seeing what codes I get. Will also be helpful to see what loom it comes off.

 

 

 

Screenshot 2024-05-08 at 22.31.17.png

Yes, that's the one.  It should be accessible from above, though you may need to remove the airbox or some intake piping to get your arm there.

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Thankyou to everyone for the advice so far @TomsFocus @unofix and @Tizer. I'm sorry these posts are so long. I'm trying to be thorough in the hope that it is clear what I am doing, and also so that anyone with similar issues is able to look through this as a source of information.

I wanted to check this morning whether the PCM had any water ingress in it, as that was on my list of possibilities.

When I opened up the wheel arch to do this I found two things:

1. The manual lever position sensor is easily accessible from under the wheel arch:

  • I took it off, it is attached by a single bolt on the front of the box. It doesn't actually go into the box at all, I assume it is an induction sensor as it just has a plastic face which sits on the surface of the box.
  • I unplugged it from the harness (it is one of the first things to come off the harness) and when unplugged the PCM gives the following codes: (P08A0 MLPS sensor circuit range, P082F MLPS Y circuit low, P082C MLPS X circuit low.) These ones don't cause a light to come on but are stored by the PCM internally.
  • I gave it a clean and put it back on.
  • When driving, I am still getting the same codes, including the ones from the MLPS internally.

2. The PCM housing had a large opening at the top, potentially allowing water/moisture ingress, and has clearly been fiddled with previously. The bolts are not original. The PCM was also not original.

  • The PCM unit in there has a label saying 'ECU Express Donor'. It looks like it has been sealed up with silicone at some point, and there is evidence of a small area which isn't sealed well on one of the corners of the PCM, and there is also dust & some dried debris on the bottom of the housing, suggesting that water/humidity certainly has access to the compartment with the PCM in.
  • I gave the connections a blow and reinstalled it.

Took the car out for a drive, still getting faults. This time we have:

- P06A6 - Sensor ref voltage 'A' circuit range/performance

- P06DF - Glow plug control module 1 memory checksum error - This is a new one I've not had up til now.

- P08A0 MLPS sensor circuit range.

- P082F MLPS Y circuit low.

- P082C MLPS X circuit low

______

So, where should I go from here? Thoughts as follows:

  • Has someone replaced the PCM previously in order to try and fix these same issues. OR has the replacement job been done badly and so the lack of sealing has caused these issues.
  • I believe this is an ex-police car.
  • I wanted to see if I could send the PCM off to be tested, however I rang a couple companies who said they can't test delphi units. It also seems I can buy a replacement unit for about £120 in total. I need to see if it would be possible to trial fitting a replacement one and what that would involve. I will ask this question on a separate thread as it is quite specific.
  • Is it worth me replacing the MLPS as a trial? If doing this stopped those MLPS codes appearing then that would reduce the likelihood that it is the PCM at fault. However the sensor isn't cheap £120.

Photos below in case anyone else ever needs to access the MLPS hopefully this info will help.

Key for photos:

- Red circle (shows the opening at the top of the PCM housing).

- Blue arrows (shows possible dried water/environmental ingress into PCM housing)

- Yellow arrow (position of MLPS on gearbox as seen from under wheel arch).

- Other two photos are of the PCM. The PCM has been re-built and sealed with a black silicone, however it appears that the sealing job isn't perfect and there is a small opening in one of the corners. I haven't taken it apart to see inside but may end up doing so....

 

IMG_2260 2.jpg

IMG_2261 2.jpg

IMG_2265.jpg

IMG_2275 2.jpg

IMG_2276 2.jpg

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This is going to be difficult !!

We don't know if the part number of the PCM fitted is correct for your model, or whether it is just a close approximate.

The software is not such a major problem once you have the correct hardware. You can use FORScan and download your cars original "AsBuilt" data from the Ford servers and install it on the replacement.

If you went to a helpful and friendly Ford parts department with your vehicles VIN, they might be willing to tell you the Ford finis code and the part code of a new PCM.

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3 minutes ago, unofix said:

This is going to be difficult !!

We don't know if the part number of the PCM fitted is correct for your model, or whether it is just a close approximate.

The software is not such a major problem once you have the correct hardware. You can use FORScan and download your cars original "AsBuilt" data from the Ford servers and install it on the replacement.

If you went to a helpful and friendly Ford parts department with your vehicles VIN, they might be willing to tell you the Ford finis code and the part code of a new PCM.

HI @unofix, thanks for the reply 🙂 

Interesting - are you suggesting it might be that the PCM on my car might not actually be the correct one?

I will try ringing a couple of ford parts departments tomorrow and see if they will help me. Are they the only source of this information?

If I can get hold of those two numbers, then would I be able to purchase an appropriate used PCM to use as a replacement?

 

 

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7 minutes ago, ssmith93 said:

are you suggesting it might be that the PCM on my car might not actually be the correct one?

We simply don't know is the answer. It looks very likely that the unit is not the original part.

During the many years of production and the very many different variants of the vehicle, there will be several different PCM's used on the Kuga. They are not interchangeable although some may partially work.

Trying to get confirmation of what the original part was is not always straight forward. You might or might not have the correct part now. The Ford code JV6A-12A650-AA is the first revision of that unit. As time progresses and updates are made the last letter "A" will be incremented upwards, for example  JV6A-12A650-AC would be the third revision of that part.

If we assume that the part may not be the original then you should look for a replacement part with the highest last letter you can find. The parts are designed to be forwards compatible but never backwards.

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Well a bit of good news 😀

It seems that there is only one version of that part currently JV6A-12A650-AA so if you buy a used unmolested replacement it should most likely be the correct part.

You will need to load your vehicles "AsBuilt" data to it with FORScan.

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7 minutes ago, unofix said:

Well a bit of good news 😀

It seems that there is only one version of that part currently JV6A-12A650-AA so if you buy a used unmolested replacement it should most likely be the correct part.

You will need to load your vehicles "AsBuilt" data to it with FORScan.

'Unmolested' 🤣

Thanks for all this - It is nice to have a bit of good news.

I can find a JV6A-12A650-AJA (Link) and a JV6A-12A650-PA (Link), but both of those are from different engines. There is a JV6A-12A650-BA(Link - the photo is correct the title isnt) as well which is my engine but auto box - unsure if that matters. Are they later versions of my same code or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I will try and call around some Ford parts places first thing in the morning and see if they will be so kind as to confirm the part code. Unless you tell me in the meantime that the part numbers I have found and linked above mean there are newer versions, then I will do as you suggest and purchase either of the following two tomorrow:

Option 1

Option 2

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Late to the party. Too busy smashing plates.🤣🤣, another time. 

Anyway,  would follow the wiring harness from the PcM to the gearbox and see if the harness has a kink/ sharp bend in it. Then cut open the covering  to check any of the wires for damage. 

Sorry if it's already been mentioned, just flicked through the topic. 

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20 minutes ago, iantt said:

Late to the party. Too busy smashing plates.🤣🤣, another time. 

Anyway,  would follow the wiring harness from the PcM to the gearbox and see if the harness has a kink/ sharp bend in it. Then cut open the covering  to check any of the wires for damage. 

Sorry if it's already been mentioned, just flicked through the topic. 

Thanks for the reply. The MLPS is actually the first thing that comes off the harness (can see in my photo with the yellow arrow). I can open up the harness to that point and take a look. Would that be likely to be causing the huge variety of codes i've been getting though?

 

Thanks,

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Could well be . Worth a check. Quite a few bends in the harness

Screenshot_20240509-214755.png

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Lots of the correct part on eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=JV6A-12A650-AA&_sacat=0&_sop=12

So long as you buy a JV6A-12A650-AA you will be fine. 👍

You can not use any of those listed in your post above, JV6A-12A650-AJA or  JV6A-12A650-PA or  JV6A-12A650-BA they are totally different. Even if the hardware is the same the firmware will be wrong.

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