Rhi93 Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Hi all, Well since posting the problem with my ford ka heater blower not working, today I finally got around to looking at it.. I've now checked all I can think to check, please see the results below.... 1. resistor pack replace as it had burnt out.. 2. fuse replaced. 3. electrical tests completed with the following results - with ignition turned on. a) fuse ok power going to it B) I've checked all four wires going into new resistor pack - NO power in all wires even when the switch is turned to all 4 positions. c) then checked the switch (connector plug that fits into the fan switch) - no power in all 5 wires d) checked the wire going to the fan motor - this has power Can someone help me out as I don't understand why theres no power going to the switch and/or resitior pack (which I guess is on the same circuit. There is a big black orange wire going to the switch - this I think is the feed, whihc is dead. So where does the other end of this wire go to? Is there anything else I should be checking ? I hope theres a bright man out there can help me.... ? ;) thanks guys! Rhi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintalkin Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 i would start back at the fuse is there power coming from the fuse? has you car got a blower motor relay that needs to be checked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portland Bill Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Sorry didn't see your last post but you seem pretty savvy about what you're doing. I would say it's worth getting hold of a wiring diagram for your car. If you can get hold of a Haynes Manual from your local Library it will have an appropriate diagram in the back which will help you trace the appropriate cable back to power source. Sorry I can't help you more specifically. Kristian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taffg Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 had a quick look on-line and if you go to this website, www.etis.ford.com register your vehicle you will be able to view wiring diagrams etc for your car. hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommy.h Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Hi Rhi was sure i had posted diagrams for you.what year is it? diagrams attached ORANGE/BLACK appear to bypss the resistor pack and go straight to the motor. it comes from the battery NEGATIVE. the other side ifs fed through FUSE F12 from ignition switch. tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portland Bill Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Might be worth doing a continuity test between the negative on the motor switch and the battery if you can. If you've checked the fuse and find no power to the switch, then it can only be a break in the negative otherwise nothing else in the fuseboard would be working. I could of course be completely wrong, but I think in all honesty, I'd have given up by now and gone to an Auto Electrician. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLaMe/04 Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 I don't know if this will help as I'm not an expert in this area but I had my Girlfriends heating fixed a few days ago. A common problem with KA's is the Heater Control Valve Burns out (or explodes in your mechanics face as my Girlfriends did) I recommend having a look at this. It shouldn't be too pricey to buy if this is your problem! I also had a Fiat Punto a wile back with a very similar problem. Turned out to be a faulty Earth. hope this gives you at least some help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhi93 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 Hi everyone happy new year.! success thanks all for your help and advise - I finally have a blower that is working and I didn't go to the garage. Special thanks to tom for the wiring diagram, that really helped me nail down where the problem was. Theres a plastic connector that connects the blower motor and the feed from the fuse. The connector had a poor connection and once replaced the blower now works... I'm amazed and was just about to spend my hard earned cash.. never say never... so cost of an electrical tester £3, cost of the resistor pack £10 and some wire connectors £3 job done. Sorry I'm going on a bit, but I'm so pleased with myself.. :D :D :D Rhi.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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