Guide: Fitting Ford Projector Puddle Lights Mk2 & Mk2.5 Focus 05-12 Front Doors

[Lenny]

Hi all,

I've searched the internet to find a guide or some sort of information on fitting these ford logo projector puddle lights to the focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 but I've found nothing,

So I've decided to do something about that and here we are.

Shopping list:

3Amp cable purchased from AutoStar electronics aswell as tape, purchasing as many items as possible from the same seller saves money on postage and Dave is top man at AutoStar, my number 1 supplier through out all of my Guides.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170492569100?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

4 x Small Spade connectors Male

4 x Small Spade connectors Female

1 x Roll PVC electrical tape

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLAME-RETARDANT-Electrical-PVC-Insulation-Tape-19mm-20m-/180483586959?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a05a8fb8f

1 x Roll Nylon tape

. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Amalgamating-Wiring-Harness-Loom-Tape-10m-19mm-/170481825847?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item27b1823837

1 x set Ford Logo projector puddle lights

Purchased from Tom at Bad Boy Classics these units are the 4th Generation model of the puddle lights as result they contain Cree 5w bulbs which are led and high quality 6000kelvin white aswell as low power consumption, worth every penny,

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/BB-classics/LED-Ghost-Shadow-Lights-/_i.html?_fsub=5159417014&_sid=300023934&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Tools Required:

Not sure yet the size of the Allen key will be required to roatate the angle of the logo on the lens of the projector unit.

So I'll remove either image once I receive the projector lights,

Electric Drill,

Dremal or small drill bit for electric drill will do the same job

Stanley blade

Socket wrench

Socket reduicer

Socket extension

8mm Socket

10mm Socket

Cable cutters

Flat head screwdriver

PVC electrical tape

Nylon tape

Hammer

Long nose pliers

3/32 Allen key

There are many bolts to be removed but most require a 10mm socket with extension

I'd recommend taping the 10mm socket on to the extension because it can fall in to the door cavity when removing the bolts.

[Lenny]

To start I've rolled out the 5m of cable and tapped one end on to a length of plastic pipe to make it easy to fish through holes and grommets

Remove all surrounding bolts except for one top centre, keep this bolt in place until you are ready to catch/support the panel in your hands.

[Lenny]

Gently tap the centre of the three plugs using the screwdriver and hammer,

Now I don't mean ''hammer them home'' God no

Just a ''1, 2, 3, Tap''

They will fall inside the door where they can be easily retrieved and stored later.

Once the grommet has been freed and all bolts removed,

You should be able to part the panels enough to reach in and unplug the loom from the central locking module and lock. As pictured below

On the upper left side of the door close to the mirror, you will see this grommet securing the cables,

Unplug this grommet to release the excess cable allowing easier movement of the panel

When the central locking plug is disconnected and the grommet holding the excess loom has been unplugged,

gently remove the panel from the door ensuring the electric window brackets on the inside of the panel don't catch on removal as they can be easily bent.

The loom will remain part of the panel,

So rest the panel in the foot well of the car but take care: the edge on the panel is very sharp and can scratch so take care when resting it in the foot well while working inside the door

Now the panels removed you can retrieve those plugs that were tapped through earlier

Store them safe for returning later.

Finally here we see the part we have been long awaiting to find,

The entrance/exit of cables to the grommet.

Gently push the grommet to the outside of the panel

At this point in the creation of the guide "Thunder Struck" and the rain began

so I grabbed a bin liner and some tape to shelter until the rain passed,

How's that for blacked out windows ;)

Now that we have removed the grommet that is inside the door; to the outside

We can now temperaly return the panel to the door and secure it with one or two bolts to support it,

While we begin to remove interior panels.

Now on to the interior panels

Using the T25 Torx, remove the screw from the panel

When removed, gently pull the panel on a horizontal level straight towards the rear of the car.

[Lenny]

Due to sharp edges on the panels, I recommend wrapping the cable in nylon tape to help protect the cable from being cut when rubbing off the panels not only on installation but every time the car moves.

Take a section around 3 feet long and wrap along this is enough to get you inside the door and foot well,

Don't wrap rite to the tip because it doesn't peel off again, and you need around 3" at the end for crimping sockets and splicing in to the footwell loom,

Wrap by rotating the tape at a 45 degree angle rotating around while moving forward along the cable,

When finished cut the tape with a Stanley blade,

This tape won't snap when pulled its not like PVC tape.

Enough length for attaching crimp terminals later when fully installed,

Carfull when drilling the grommet,

Set the drill to lowest speed possible and set it on a piece of wood

So if the drill goes through the grommet, it goes in to the wood and stops.

Rather than looking like Quentin Tarantino in "Dusk till Dawn" lol

Much like pulling an ear lug,

Grab hold of the grommet hose and pull it outwards,

Ensure the cables are clear from the rear left hand side and slowly drill a hole,

Small hole is good, the rubber needs to be tight on the cable to prevent water engress.

Prior to fishing the cable through the rubber hose,

Ensure the cable is feeding between the top and bottom door hinge,

Because you don't want to have to remove it at a later time to correct it.

[Lenny]

Had to call Vicki to lend a hand with refitting the OBD port socket,

I spread the clips while Vicki directed it in to place ;)

Gently pull the lug from outside the door panel until the lip forms a tight seal around the door frame again.

Ensure there is enough excess cable in the area to allow the door fully open without strain,

Aswell as ensuring there's not too much excess that the cable is likely to scuff the body.

A clear view can be obtained from outside the door looking inwards,

Temperally connect the window switch to the door and turn on the ignition to allow power to the windows,

Look through the pad holes and ensure the bolts are lined up for tightening on to the window by one 24 hour rotation of the socket,

Then close window,

Remove key from ignition

Disconnect panel on door

Use some nylon tape to help reseal the pads on the window holes

Refit rubber seal strip to inside door sill

Cable routing on drivers door complete,

Now to repeat process on passenger side is much the same but differs with the involvement of:

Removing the Glove box and side dash panel,

Looks mad with door cards removed inside lol

End result cable run in to passenger side ready for crimp terminals

My location of choice for splicing the cables in to the interior loom is;

the foot well loom in the drivers side next to the centre console,

So here is how to remove the side centre console panel in the drivers foot well.

I haven't spliced them in yet because we need to fit the female crimp terminals prior to making the cables live

Next is Crimping and stripping,

It is very important when fitting insulated crimp terminals that you always fit the female connectors to the cables that are supplying the power to the device, in this case puddle lights.

The reason for this is,

In the event of a live cable being unplugged for any reason,

There is no risk of electrical exposure due to an exposed spade

I have chosen to fit spade connectors to the loom because they are a very easy to use way of connecting devices and provide great comfort in the event of a puddle light requiring replacement in the future it is very simple to unplug and replace without the need to snip cables or tape up connections,

Start by stripping the cables using the stripping and crimping pliers

I've stripped a bit too long,

So I've set the female spade connector next to the stripped core,

In order to get the correct length and trim to size,

Prior to inserting the exposed cable in to the terminal and crimping tight.

Drivers side complete,

Passengers side now done too

[Lenny]

Time to unpack the puddle lights,

Enclosed with the two puddle light units is a 19mm holesaw,

its a good size to have in the toolbox aswell because 12v rocker switches also fit in to 19mm holes.

The puddle light units themselves are smaller than a match stick in height,

The casing is made of aluminium and powder coated black theres no plastic involved except for the lens which I suspect is perspex,

The factory fitted loom on the puddle lights is at most 1 Meter long it wouldn't be possible to fit these units to the focus without running the additional cable in to the doors with spade connectors,

I then measured a comfortable length of loom on the puddle light and cut it at a length to fit SME male spade connectors,

Next I stripped the cable to fit the male crimp connectors,

As suspected the loom cores are very thin and brittle when stripped, as result I recommend fattening them up to strengthen them and ensure they crimp correctly,

How to do this?

Using an off cut section of the 3Amp cable,

Strip a core and twine it to the stripped core of the puddle light factory loom as saw below

Then cut the excess 3Amp cable from the loom resulting in a heavier more stable tipped core on the puddle light loom for crimping.

Crimp the terminals and tape around the cable & crimp to prevent stretching of the cable aswell as water ingress, remember to mark the positive cable when wrapping in tape because both look the same when wrapped.

End result:

The next step is to drill the door panel and fit the puddle light unit,

My location of choice is close to the inside of the door,

I used the location of the panel clips as a marking to ensure I get the same location on both panels.

For best spread of light ensure you drill the hole low down on the panel as saw below,

This ensures the light beam won't get caught by the door once fitted.

When drilled through,

Gently insert the puddle light loom followed by the unit,

It takes some time to the the puddle light fully flush fitting because the base of the puddle light is threaded,

As result you need to turn it on entry,

To thread its way through the door panel, this is difficult but 100% worth it in the end because you get a good tight fit which helps maintain the alignment of the logo on the ground when set.

PLEASE NOTE:

When !Removed! in the puddle light unit, the cable in the unit will become twisted,

Keep a close eye on this cable and untangle the twist every time it happens,

To prevent the cables from snapping or stretching.

When the puddle light unit is fully seated,

Unpack the threaded washer and Allen head screw,

Insert the puddle light loom in to the threaded washer and screw the washer down on to the inside of the puddle light housing.

When screwed down,

Don't fully tighten yet,

The purpose of this washer with bolt is to allow you align the beam then thread this washer tight and bolt tight to hold the puddle light beam in that set location.

I then taped the puddle light loom over to the housing of the neighboring door clip,

Ensuring the cable was not stretched, then tapped it down tight as saw in image below,

Doing this,

Helps to protect the puddle light from damage in the event of the door panel being pulled off by ford for any reason,

It is the taped section of the loom that will be pulled and not the light unit.

The door panel is now ready to be brought back to the car,

But before we connect it all back together, We need to splice the door cables in to the footwell loom,

In order to make the puddle lights active when plugged in,

So as the logo beam can be correctly aligned prior to refitting the door.

At this point of the guide; my focus will differ from others because my focus didnt have factory fitted foot well lighting, if your focus doesn't have factory foot well lighting either,

then see my fitting guide listed below this post.

But if your focus has got factory fitted foot well lighting,

Then unclip the light socket,

Splice red positive from the doors loom

To

orange positive on the footwell lighting loom

Then black negative from the doors loom

To

Black negative on the foot well lighting loom

Tape up all connections using PVC tape

And keep all connections separate, only splice one at a time to prevent shorting and blowing fuse.

Now back to fitting the door,

At this point it would be ideal to have the assistance of a second person to hold the door panel,

While you get on the ground and correctly align the beam of the puddle light,

Firstly connect the positive and negative spade connections and tape over each spade connection separately to prevent water ingress.

Remove the two bolts from the door that were previously hand threaded in there for storage and to prevent loss.

Correctly align the beam

Followed by !Removed! down the threaded washer tight and securing with the bolt.

Once secure and correctly aligned,

Hold the outside of the door with one hand,

And slap the panel back in the the other hand ensuring a flush fit around the door,

This can be saw from the side of the door.

Next re-insert the two bolts to the under side of the panel and plug in the electrics

Align outer door pane and gently slap in to place

Refit inner door handle cup and push in to place,

Finally ensure the tweeter panel is correctly positioned within the main door card panel prior to closing the door and repeating the installation on the passenger side.

Job Done,

Thanks for viewing my Guide and I hope it has helped to achieve satisfactory results.

I have created many Guides all available here on fordownersclub.com all created in my spare time,

in recent times my image host for the guides has began to charge for hosting the images that display within my guides.

So im now paying a monthly subscription in order for these guides to function,

If you would like to help keep the guides full of images,

Donations under £1.00 welcome via PayPal

Address: leonard.woods@live.ie

Thank you.

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.

[yunii]

thats simply an awesome how to guide , a purely proffessional write out, do you want a job at Haynes manuals? <_<

simply brilliant, but i wont be doing this unless i put them in place of my mirror puddle lights.

yunii

[Lenny]

thats simply an awesome how to guide , a purely proffessional write out, do you want a job at Haynes manuals? <_<

simply brilliant, but i wont be doing this unless i put them in place of my mirror puddle lights.

yunii

I could do version 2 of Haynes ford focus modification lol shame they only created that book for the Mk1 and Mk1.5 model focus,

You could easily run a feed down from your wing mirror puddle lights without removing the window etc.

I'll have a look at your new mod now,

[Focus-Jonny]

Lenny great guide!! Always an interesting read cant wait until later this week! Would love to have the confidence to pull off a complex mod like that well done mate!

[Lenny]

Lenny great guide!! Always an interesting read cant wait until later this week! Would love to have the confidence to pull off a complex mod like that well done mate!

Thanks Jonathan,

Its really not as hard as it looks mate,

Take your time there's n rush with it and can be walked away from, at any stage of the process for a break.

I wouldn't take on the job of changing engine oil or pollen filter but I'd do this again no problem,

Its just removing lots of bolts in a set formation, looks daunting but its really not.

[georgen]

Spot on write up Lenny. B)

[Lenny]

Spot on write up Lenny. B)

Thanks mate took a lot of time to create this one.

[jeebowhite]

How much time have you invested into this so far?

[Hassen]

Great read as usual. Top job so far. Will be watching this space on the progress.

[Lenny]

How much time have you invested into this so far?

Less than 30 pounds mate,

As i had a roll of tape and nylon tape already to hand, i just needed the cable, puddle lights and spade connectors, 100% worth it,

The guide has taken almost two days and still requires more editing but fitting time would be possible over a weekend.

Great read as usual. Top job so far. Will be watching this space on the progress.

The puddle light units arrived this morning very well packaged,

I've completed the rest of the guide and I'm proud to say they are now fitted to the doors and he car is all back together 100% very happy,

I've spent from 12:00 - 16:00 uploading the rest of the guide to photo bucket,

Now unfortunitly I must go away until Friday,

So I will complete this guide then along with some night pictures,

Here's a preview:

.

I highly recommend these lights.

Smaller than a match stick

[Preee]

Fantastic guide Mr Lenny , once again top notch instructions which i'm sure many will find very easy to follow , i'll be waiting for the night time pictures mate.

[Focus-Jonny]

Looking class Lenny! Where did you get your scuff plates they look nice are they available for the 3

Door?

[jeebowhite]

a weekend and £30! that has to be the coolest and cheapest mod at the same time! probably the most scary to dig into :p

[Lenny]

Fantastic guide Mr Lenny , once again top notch instructions which i'm sure many will find very easy to follow , i'll be waiting for the night time pictures mate.

Thanks Paul mate,

I'll defo have a go at completing this guide tomorrow,

Ive gotten some night shots of them parked on tarmac looks fantastic,

But looks even better on a concrete driveway must be the lighter background for the logo,

Ive only got the images on tarmac at present to upload but ill get the concrete ones uploaded too.

Looking class Lenny! Where did you get your scuff plates they look nice are they available for the 3

Door?

Thanks Jonny,

Well worth taking the time to do this mod mate,

I purchased the stainless steel scuff plates back in 2010 from a seller on eBay but I can't remember the shop, not sure if they done a 3 door version but I'll have a quick search and PM you with my findings.

a weekend and £30! that has to be the coolest and cheapest mod at the same time! probably the most scary to dig into :p

Yes defo the best bang for buck modification I've ever done to the focus,

But not the most scary, its easy once you take your time and follow the guide.

My most scary modification and most messy was cutting out the dash to fit the ST pod.

Slip with the saw and its new dash required lol

[Lenny]

.

[Stoney871]

Looking good mate.

[Lenny]

Looking good mate.

Thanks Clive,

I'm delighted with the results, can't miss them at night lol

Here they are projecting on the concrete driveway last night at 22:00

.

[jeebowhite]

+1

Maybe I will have to hire your services, since Vicki seems to be trying to sell you off ;)

[Lenny]

+1

Maybe I will have to hire your services, since Vicki seems to be trying to sell you off ;)

Perhaps get me over on a group purchase jeebo,

Those who want me to fit, get together with jeeb and chip in to pay for a return ticket on the ferry from Rosslare Co.Wexford Ireland

I'll drive on with my tools and install your purchase lol

[jeebowhite]

lol sounds like a good arrangement :D