6 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I am an electronics engineer, & I repaired my IC. It was just a bad solder joint, but after a week of on-off, it had completely disabled the car.

In principle, it is dead easy to remove, two little bolts at the bottom, clips at the top, one connector on the back. The clips at the top can be a pig though, you can not apply force to the IC unit without risk of cracking the cover.

Just google Focus cluster repair, you will get lots of hits. I have no information as to individual recommendations.

But I suggest you don't rush ahead too fast yet, unfortunately it would need to be malfunctioning on a fairly regular basis before proper diagnosis & repair can be done! And it may be something else altogether. Is the odd display still present? And have you tried tapping the fascia around the IC?

For my repair, download: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

For diagnostic info (Forscan is best for this multi-module type of problem), See

 

Still got the message Peter, unable to test it by tapping on the dashboard as my wife is using the car for work. Got it booked into a local garage on Thursday that she uses for the servicing work, they are going to check it out and maybe get it repaired? Will update you on their findings.

Barry

On 07/07/2016 at 11:23 AM, Stereosammy said:

Now been advised that my turbo needs removing and 'deep cleaning'

Any results or feedback? Might help me or others.

Peter.

On 7/26/2016 at 11:01 AM, oldie said:

Still got the message Peter, unable to test it by tapping on the dashboard as my wife is using the car for work. Got it booked into a local garage on Thursday that she uses for the servicing work, they are going to check it out and maybe get it repaired? Will update you on their findings.

Barry

Update time, 

Rang the AA tech helpline on Tuesday for info and was told it seems to be stuck in diagnostics mode, and was told to  start the engine and hold the reset button in for 10 secs but this didn't make any difference even after repeating it. Looked on this site and someone (can't remember who) suggested holding the reset button in before turning on the ignition, still no joy. Ended up last Thursday taking the car into Mackenzie's garage in Matlock so they could check it out, they did some checks and said it was one of the components on the circuit board. We were quoted £510 for the repair, but they couldn't  guarantee the circuit board as something else could fail on it . The next option was to pay £840  for a new circuit board which would be guaranteed, we decided to go  for the new one and was told it could take a week or so to order and fit.

My wife works as an activities coordinator in a residential care home in Matlock and it just so happens the mother of the owner (Mac) is a resident there and my wife knows both Mac and his wife fairly well, Today (Monday) he went in to see her and told my wife they had removed and replaced the circuit board a few time and every thing seem ok with it, they had even test driven the car without the fault showing up (methinks it could have been a loose connection to the circuit board?). She was told there would be no charge for the work they had done and as the home is having it's summer fete next weekend they would throw in a free MOT as a raffle prize plus some other stuff as well, they even took the car and parked it where she works. We realise that it could fail again and that we could still have to pay out for a new circuit board, but who knows it could be ok now? 

So as a result of this we are totally gobsmacked as you can imagine, and cannot praise Mac at Mackenzie's Garage highly enough for his generosity, both in not charging for the labour and for the donations to the summer fete. 

 

1 hour ago, oldie said:

they had removed and replaced the circuit board a few time and every thing seem ok with it,

I assume the circuit board is the big one at the back of the Instrument Cluster.

From the symptoms, & age of the car, I am 95% sure it will be the solder joints between the pcb & the connector.

This is a really easy fix for anyone with a fine soldering iron, and a little experience of soldering.

If it fails again, have a look at my pdf (above), and contact your brother-in-law, and see if he can fix it.

If you can afford a few days without a car, it can be sent away for repair (with a warranty), for under £100.

£840 seems a lot of money to fix one or two dodgy solder joints!

Good news, Very decent of the garage!

Hope it continues working, though. And at least you have some idea about the problem if it does happen again.

Yes it's for the one behind the instrument cluster, £840 was for the price of a new pcb Peter. Did have a look at your pdf but not sure I fancy taking it all apart , with my luck I would probably break something . Hopefully though it will be ok from now on.

46 minutes ago, oldie said:

instrument cluster, £840 was for the price of a new pcb

£840 should be the price for a complete new unit, including dials, and the plastic casing and window.

So if it went again, you would not lose much by taking it out & apart. Breaking something that is already broken does not cost much!

But we can hope it does not come to that, with a bit of luck it will be ok.

If any more problems happen, do write about it on this site!

Peter.

seeing this thread i had to reply

i got focus 8 months ago after buying several mondeos and i prefer mondeos better the focus as had so much probs with mk2 focus.

i had timing belt done first

rear spoiler leaking running into boot still have that

my driver side heated windscreen failed split ribbon not fixed

my power steering hose went on union nut new pipes and nut 250 pound

my aircon pipe went from compressor to condenser huge split, new pipe and re gas

few little chips in paint on bottom doors

plus

clutch spring snapping on pedal

front washer jets not working that was filter blocked

now have a seized spark plug and noticed washer jets leaking and dripping into battery cover and spark plug area. any cure for this

whats the chances of the ti vct unit going now the variable valve tuning thing going on me

 

On 12/08/2016 at 0:22 AM, madman said:

rear spoiler leaking

noticed washer jets leaking and dripping into battery cover and spark plug area. any cure for this

Ouch, the a/c & steering fails sound painful in the wallet area!

About leaks, See:

 

thanks for the replys

i had several mondeos before focus are mondeos built better didnt have much wrong with it

from the list of common faults start of this thread i am seeing a pattern occur with my focus,  whats chances of that ti vct timing thing going  and thats expensive on my car its only done 67000. i am now tempted get rid of focus back to mondeo

what do you think

Hi There,

 

I'm a new here. Got my Focus 2005 1.6 Ti engine, two days ago. It's a lovely car, however I just noticed that on idle the rpm is jumping a bit, after connected the OBD II reader got a pending fault P0174 (Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean). Now what? The car is driving nicely, and only doing it when it's cold. Is this something I should worry about? cheers 

6 hours ago, aqwer said:

got a pending fault P0174 (Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean).

If only a pending fault, it can only be happening occasionally. Usually the MIL lights on the 2nd occurrence of a fault like this. If the car feels & sounds ok (no or minimal knocking / pinking), then don't worry about it, but do continue to log it. Record each time it happens, and clear the DTC, so you can see the next one.

It may be the MAP sensor, or possibly a fuel supply fault. Maybe just a clogged fuel filter. Or it could be just a one off event that will not return.

Cheers for the reply mate. I'll keep an eye on it. Maybe it's time to change the fuel filter. I've tried to clean the MAP sensor with contact cleaner. 

Yeah, it's me again. ( Focus 2005 1.6 Ti-vct 115 hp) Not sure if this is the right topic, but here we go. I've changed the oil (castrol 5w-30), and the oil filter too. Ordered a Bosch one from carparts4less* Bosh Oil filter it was weird that it's bigger than the old one. Other sites offer smaller ones too. Will the bigger oil filter cause any problem?   cheers

 

* ((Only option I had at the car selection is Ford,2005,1.6,Petrol) (Strange enough when I type my reg number in, it gives a 1.8 car, no idea why.))

 

5 hours ago, aqwer said:

ss* Bosh Oil filter it was weird that it's bigger than the old one

The standard seems to be the 76mm high one.

The Cars Parts site does say:

Other Information:	Alternatives Confirm Length 123mm

But the interface looks the same, so if if fits without leakage, I would leave it.

 

Quote

 

7 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The standard seems to be the 76mm high one.

The Cars Parts site does say:

Other Information:	Alternatives Confirm Length 123mm

But the interface looks the same, so if if fits without leakage, I would leave it.

 

Cheers for the reply. It's not leaking at all. I'll keep an eye on it. I could not change the oil filter without loosing the oil from engine could I? 

1 hour ago, aqwer said:

change the oil filter without loosing the oil from engine could I

I think the filter is after the oil pump, so all the sump oil would not pour out, but it would still be a very messy job with plenty of oil leaking out, making it difficult to get a nice clean fit. Not something I would really want to do!

If it has fitted in without leaking, and the oil light is off when running, then I can not think of any good reason why the smaller filter should be better. I would guess the only difference is the area of filter medium, so the bigger one will have a lower pressure drop, allowing for higher oil flows. Might even be a benefit!

I am sure others will be reading this, and if anyone had strong views to the contrary, they would soon say!

Peter.

9 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I think the filter is after the oil pump, so all the sump oil would not pour out, but it would still be a very messy job with plenty of oil leaking out, making it difficult to get a nice clean fit. Not something I would really want to do!

If it has fitted in without leaking, and the oil light is off when running, then I can not think of any good reason why the smaller filter should be better. I would guess the only difference is the area of filter medium, so the bigger one will have a lower pressure drop, allowing for higher oil flows. Might even be a benefit!

I am sure others will be reading this, and if anyone had strong views to the contrary, they would soon say!

Peter.

Cheers Peter, 

 

If it's messy, I'm just gonna leave as it is. The car is running fine. I really appreciate You reply. Have a good week. 

Not sure if this problem has been mentioned before, but my rear left indicator on my mk2 Focus doesn't properly. One day it will work, but the other day I drove to university and the indicator wasn't working (the lights flashed quickly but the rear left didn't light up at all). Does anyone know any way of fixing this? The fuse and bulb are fine, I suspect it's a wiring problem or earthing failt. This isn't the first time this has happened to the car as it happened around 5 months ago but sorted itself out.

Thanks in advance!

40 minutes ago, AidenDent said:

my rear left indicator on my mk2 Focus doesn't properly.

The indicator wiring comes from the BCM (aka GEM, part of the passenger fusebox). It is a blue wire from C100 pin 32, one of the big connectors on the BCM, all the way to the back.

Unlikely to be an earth unless other bulbs are affected. Start with the bulb holder assy, and work back to the BCM.

A few days ago I noticed a high pitched sound from the rear/middle of the car. I think it's the fuel pump. The noise comes from the fuel tank, i guess the pump is in the tank...anyways here is a video from that noise. Do You guys think the pump is dying? :/ (The car is running fine, starts fine) I'm a bit worried because I have to make a long journey next month.

 

 

I have an 08 focus and the indicator bulb in the drivers side mirror is not working. The bulb has been replaced but it is still out. When I was adjusting the mirror I noticed that if I press the down button the drives side indicators light up but the one in the mirror doesn't. Has anyone come across this before. Thank you. Sorry if this is in the wrong place, please delete if required

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and thought I'd post all the issues I've found with my Focus purchased last month.
I'm not looking for answers here by the way, I will post my own threads when I actually get around to tackling these issues lol.
This is purely to help people have extra things to look out for when buying a MK2 Focus.

2005 Focus 1.6 Petrol Zetec 5dr - 80k on the clock.

 

- Loud creaking steering noise when parking.  Google is pointing towards this being the rubber top mounts needing replacing.  Steering works fine, just annoying noise.

- Handbrake button cracked in half.  Still works but gets stuck in sometimes.  Cheapest I've found so far is about £8, for a small bit of plastic!!

- Dipstick has small spots of rust near the top.  I have no idea why.  : - /

- Leak in boot.  Google is pointing towards the seals on the rear light clusters.  Makes sense as the car paperwork is pointing towards these clusters being replaced at some point.

- Plastic scuttle thing is not sat flush to the front windscreen.

- One of the rear speakers is dead.

 

By the way I am not a mechanic in any way, just a DIY'er armed with Google lol.

Hope this helps someone.

20 hours ago, Daves99 said:

When I was adjusting the mirror I noticed that if I press the down button the drives side indicators light up but the one in the mirror doesn't

Hi,

I have seen the other post, with Isetta's reply. I would add:

Does the car have door modules? I believe that all these cars that have 4 electric windows have door modules, but cars with 2 electric & the rear 2 manual, do not. If it did have door modules, it would be very odd indeed, as the mirror indicators on these are controlled via a CAN bus, with no electrical connection to the main indicators.

With no door modules, it is simply wired via switches. The mirror indicators get power direct from the main indicators, so could feed power back to this circuit. There is on common earth wire for the mirror lamps and the mirror adjustment switch. An open circuit here could cause odd symptoms, but without a second fault, like a short in the wiring to the mirror indicator, I can not work out how the fault would happen.

I would remove the mirror bulb, check for power (when indicating) at one terminal, check continuity to the body on the other terminal, and for power (when indicating) on that 2nd terminal, also. And go from there.

In the diagrams below, S197 is the point where the Earths join (BK wire). The BU-RD wire is from the other indicator bilbs. The OG-YW wire is a power supply (12v).

Thank you I will have a look. It has just electric windows in the front

Hi,

New to the forum so Id like to say hello first!

I recently bought my first ford, its a ford focus mk2 2006 1.8 tdci.  Its a very good car and i'm currently in the process of starting a build thread for my project.  

The problem i'm currently having is every morning when i try to start the car it would crank and crank for ages but wont start. and then the immobiliser light would come on as a solid red light.  At first I thought it was the battery.  I had called greenflag out to start my car as I didn't know the issue.  So they came and first thing they said was the battery so I had that changed.  At the same time they did a scan on the car and it came up with the  error code: U2197.  Now i googled this and everything that came up was the instrument cluster common fault.  

i would like to just know if that could definitely be the culprit so i could get it fixed asap as its stressing me out! 

To quickly summarise the issues are:

Cranks for ages then eventually it will start

Car cuts out sometimes

Error code: U2197

Error on dash come up and shows "engine systems fault"

 

HELPPPPP!

Thanks