Can you film the startup process? It seems to be an issue with the wiring... When did you buy the car?

Thanks for the quick reply, i've just made a video of the start up please click on link below i check cabling 3 time by removing and reconnecting the connector made no difference. i brought car 2 weeks ago

Thanks

http://we.tl/1jKHUQdA9h

I suspect it's a fault with the cluster. It looks like it's been tampered with as that white patch should have a black piece over it, unless the car is an auto in which case it should all be a computer screen

The air could be a number of things. I had 3 faults.

1) the connector at the curtain airbag was bad, it was cleaned up by an auto electrician and fixed the issue. The next day another issue occurred....

2) the other curtain airbag threw an error, as he was removing and installing the headlining he knocked a wire which was touching the other wire. This pressure was increasing resistance. The wife was moved and everything was fixed. Finally....

3) the airbag control module under the centre console had dry connections which were messing resistance. Stripped the car down and ran it to my electrician, he soaked it in industrial contact cleaner, put it together and it's been perfect since!

Focus Titanium - ls rns sat nav mp3 radio navigation unit not working. it has twice powered off and powered on spontainiously without requiring the code to be entered to re-start. whilst powered off the new battery power was totally disapated. there was about 1 amp flowing. on removal of the unit the current flow ceased. the power comsumption of the unit has been checked whilst out of the car and it is effectively zero (this is not definitive as the unit cannot be properly powered up out of the car and the intermittent nature of the fault).

Is this an aftermarket unit? As it suggests it's not powering down

Jeebowhite, it's an original part that came with the original car manufacture.

You're right about not powering down, the short to ground isn't enough to blow the main feed fuse but sufficient to drain the battery after a fe days.

It's an original part. The unit remains powered up even though there is a short to ground which allows approx 1 amp (not enough to blow the fuse) to flow completely draining the battery after a few days.

Hi shaun,

Did they only check the one wheel bearing, as sometimes noises appear to point to one side but can be on any wheel.

modern bearings are a sealed unit so when a garage checks them for wear, they may not notice any play by pulling on them. they can get flats on the bearing rollers and as you increase in speed you will here the noise getting worse. if the noise is louder when you turn left or right, it could be the drive shaft c.v.joints. also check the brake pads have no grit lodged in them and that the discs are not warped or cracked. with the state of the roads you should check tyres and wheels spin smoothly and true. i once replaced both rear wheel bearings because of a similar noise and it turned out to be faulty tyres. buying a haynes or similar car manual can help you check yourself and save you money if it's something simple. good luck.

hi, can anyone shed some light on fault code c1288? is there a repair kit for it?

That fault requires a replacement ABS pump.

It's the sensor inside that goes but the part is not suitable for reconditioning.

Give these guys a shout-

http://www.ecutesting.com/ford_focus___c-max_abs_pump_mo.html

Hi Guys i have an issue with my ford focus mk2 06 plate 1.6 cdti, the problem is when you start to drive the car in 1 gear it looses power and white smoke appears from the exhaust and car slowly come to a stop, in order to move again you have to turn off engine and start again which will take you to next junction and same problem occurs again. When in 3rd gear at speed over 30mph it runs fine as soon as you slow down then it will refuse to pick up again.

Things i have done

taken out all injectors and cleaned them

cleaned air flow sensor

cleaned MAF sensor

changed dpf sensor

Then took it to garage and had diagnostic machine connected to it which came up with EGR valve and DPF

he then replaced the egr valve which made no difference then he started the dpf regeneration using this computer, after completing the test successfully it was still doing the same thing.

He recommended i use injector cleaner which could make a difference which i have and its still the same.

My question is has anyone had this fault before or does anyone know what the problem could be i have made a short clip of the fault with engine running please see link below

http://we.tl/om2r2HwKje

Thanks

White smoke indicates water in the combustion chamber I'm afraid

Head gasket?

Or worse a cracked cyl' head ?

Water level is fine and oil level is fine how could i confirm its cyl head

Is there any evidence of emulsification on the oil filler cap ? ( creamy goo )

oil cap clean no yellow stuff even oil filter cap clean checked when changing oil

Intercooler to E.G.R.V. hose intact & tightly connected both ends ? These are renowned for splitting.

White smoke in diesel exhaust can also indicate raw unburnt diesel being emitted, which could be injectors issue and / or low cylinder compression and / or incorrect fuel injection timing

I'll replace injectors seals see if that make a difference, i was told its raw unburnt diesel that causes white smoke i'll also check pipes around egr valve Thanks for your reply

Hi Guys I've changed the injector seals, still made no difference, also check EGR valve pipes all OK.

I disconnected the MAF sensor and the engine started running fine i drove it 300 miles and it worked, also noticed if i remove the air flow sensor & connect the MAF sensor it still works fine.

However when both sensors are connected in circuit car goes into limp mode again.

I've replaced both the MAS & MAF sensors its made no difference does anyone know why it does this?

Thanks

UPDATE FROM MY POST IN DECEMBER.

brake light failure with engine malfunction light.

Checked wiring, checked earthing points, checked and checked With a friend who knows a bit About electrics. Finally went to Ford who said it was a brake pedal sensor And it would cost best part of 100 pounds to replace Not including 130 quid for the 'investigation work' ! NO THANKS . I did it myself for 25 Pounds..both switches. Still no joy.

finally with MOT looming in 4 weeks. Reluctantly went back to Ford.

After 3 days and one mis diagnose. They said it was the BCMi module. Just in case you don't know..It's the fuse junction box in the passenger footwell with all the bits inside. It apparently had water ingress which led to the fault.

It cost me £519.00 . I managed to haggle them down from £650! from mis diagnosis to three days without a vehicle to lack of information updates. I tried ...and the biggest expense was the part..close to £400.

The car now runs smoothly. They didn't warn me about reprogramming my remotes and the auto function on the windows! Finally sorted...I hope.

I've never read or heard of anyone having a fault like this before so I hope this will be of some use to someone who might .

3 years ago my wipers just 'stopped' mid sweep, and wouldn't move.

2 wiper motors, a 2nd hand fusebox/gem and 3 weeks of auto-electric work later, we were no further forward. It too turned out to be water ingress.

I was a big £300 & vat for a new one, then the cost of programming. Touch wood, no probs since.