Guide: Fitting Custom Amp & Sub Enclosure Mk2 Mk2.5 Focus 2005-2011

[HUS541N]

15 hours ago, Lenny said:

An aftermarket headunit is the better option in my opinion aswell, as there is no need for a second volume controller connected to the amplifier if using an aftermarket headunit.

for a front lip see my guide here: Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS Front Lip spoiler Click Here 

By keeping everything categorised makes it easier for others to follow in the future, I'll respond to that thread with a link later today you may also like: 

Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS rear Diffuser Click Here  

Full ZetecS Kit Fitted to Mk2.5 Focus Click Here

Guide to Fitting Aftermarket headunit focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here

Guide To fitting 10" HD Flip Down Monitor Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here

Guide Installing Reverse Camera Focus Mk2.5 2008 - 2011Click Here

Guide Fitting Dual Camera DVR System Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5Click Here

Full list of my guides can be found here: 

 

lenny your the man. without your help n others, people like me would be f****d.

top man

 

Thanks Again

[HUS541N]

On 11/9/2014 at 10:57 AM, Lenny said:

Started out with a plan to install one of these custom fit 10"sub enclosures

See link:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-Mk2-Custom-Fit-MDF-10-Sub-Box-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Bass-/360623710681?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item53f6d921d9

There worth every penny very well built and perfect fit,

Only problem was where to fit the AMP to drive the 10" sub within the enclosure,

I've created two ideas both of similar design,

I will now explain:

After fitting the custom sub enclosure i measured the gap between the enclosure and back of rear seat:

Measures 35mm free space :)

I then measured the gap between the wheel arch and the back of rear seat when closed,

Measures 15mm :)

So i then purchased a sheet of 9mm MDF

Folded down the rear seats and measured the length between the wheel arches

Measures 1045mm :)

I then cut the sheet to the correct width to fit inside the arches 1045mm

An additional cut out is required along the bottom to allow the seat bracket sit in to the MDF panel

Next i cut two slips measuring 25mm wide and 405mm long,

The height of the main sheet has also been cut down to 405mm so as not to obstruct the seat retaining brackets

These fit in between the wheel arches and the back of the rear seat as saw in images aswell as providing mounting surface for the 1045mm sheet:

Now since there's 35mm depth available

I added an extra slip of 9mm mdf around the three sides of the 1045mm sheet,

Resulting in a triple layer edge and internal cavity of 18mm between the back of rear seat and the main sheet of MDF

The internal cavity is purposly designed to house the relevant cables required for the amp or amps,

The plan is to surface mount the amp inside the boot on the 9mm sheet,

Drill corresponding holes for cables to pass through the sheet in to the amp at required locations this minimising the visibility of cables,

Once completely marked out and drilled,

The sheet will be wrapped in carpet matching that of the boot interior resulting in a professional finish with no visible cables.

I chose to create a full width panel as my install involves installing two amps here's my specific plan:

Purchased some paint to seal the MDF aswell as providing a rough surface for bonding the carpet.

Sprayed two coats on the rear and one on the front

Later Acquired some EvoStik Aerosol glue adhesive and a roll of AutoLeads acoustic carpet.

There's plenty of carpet in one roll capable of covering two panels

I cut the carpet to generous size,

Sprayed glue on to carpet and panel then pressed both together; smoothing out the wrinkles

Now fitted to the car the carpet is a perfect match to the existing factory finish ready for mounting amp while keeping cables hidden inside the cavity.

Prior to fitting amplifier to the panel

I purchased some aluminium bushings to use as washers

Creating a gap between the amplifier and carpet for air to circulate cooling the amplifier

Sat amplifier face down on inside of panel to mark out the corresponding holes

Drilled out markings

Amplifier now mounted in position with all cables terminated at the rear of the panel

Mono amplifier, 1 fared capacitor and 10" sub enclosure added.

Still enough space for a buggy 👍

Thanks for viewing and hope this helps

any difference on sound when putting on the power cap for the amp n sub. also is it difficult to wire it up a power cap? only as i never putted one on. also which one would you recommend. got 2 subs 4,000watt max, 1200rms, amp 2400 

[Lenny]

6 hours ago, HUS541N said:

any difference on sound when putting on the power cap for the amp n sub. also is it difficult to wire it up a power cap? only as i never putted one on.

I fitted the capacitor at the same time when upgrading the audio system, the amplifier has never been operated without it, 

 

A capacitor is a short term battery, I've custom wrapped mine to replicate a large RedBull can as it explains it's purpose quite well.

if you imagine a tap with flowing water; which is filling a bucket. Your waiting around for it to fill and it's slow.

it takes time to fill up 

but if you were to put a large drum under the tap and fill it, the drum continues to replenish while your off using the bucket full;

Then you can dip the bucket in to the drum of water saving you time as the drum is always filling.

A Capacitor is a resivour of instant power it cushions the fast demands from the amplifier meaning you never miss a beat or lose power in anything else.

The cars battery has many jobs especially during night driving, As result; when using a large amplifier the headlights may begin to dim as the Bass goes 😁by fitting a capacitor it prevents this because the battery fills the capacitor and the amplifier takes power out from the capacitor meaning the battery always provides a steady flow of energy without any demands.itting a capacitor is very simple.

there are two terminals on the top just the same as a battery has positive & negative.

when first installing a capacitor you need to introduce power to it very gently to prevent explosion aswell as build it up to 14 volts.

This is done using a small resistor which is provided in the packaging.

The resistor carrys energy from the battery to the capacitor at a very slow and regulated speed to prevent explosion and build up the initial charge.

Here's some pictures of when I was charging mine, the red cable I'm using as a temperary "Earth feed" and holding the resistor with a pliers in charging the capacitor notice it says "LO" meaning LOW until charged

The cable between the capacitor and connected amplifier must be less than 18" inches, Here's a post in my build thread also explains it in detail:👇

 

[Lenny]

1 hour ago, HUS541N said:

also which one would you recommend. got 2 subs 4,000watt max, 1200rms, amp 2400 

Firstly you will require a 4AWG gauge wiring for that size of amplifer 

The general rule of thumb is;

For a Class A, B, or C Amplifier

1.0 fared for every 1000watts Audio

But if you have a Class D amplifier you could half that equasion meaning a 1.0Fared Capacitor would cover a 2000watt audio amplifier.

class D amplifiers are the latest type they are very efficent, much smaller and produce less excess heat.

if you were to fit a 1.0 Fared capacitor to a 2000watt audio Class A, B, or C amplifier it wouldn't do any harm atall but it may not have sufficientcapacity to prevent the amplifier from demanding more from the battery.

there's not really any difference in brand when it comes to purchasing a capacitor they all do the same job only the size matters.

[HUS541N]

5 hours ago, Lenny said:

Firstly you will require a 4AWG gauge wiring for that size of amplifer 

The general rule of thumb is;

For a Class A, B, or C Amplifier

1.0 fared for every 1000watts Audio

But if you have a Class D amplifier you could half that equasion meaning a 1.0Fared Capacitor would cover a 2000watt audio amplifier.

class D amplifiers are the latest type they are very efficent, much smaller and produce less excess heat.

if you were to fit a 1.0 Fared capacitor to a 2000watt audio Class A, B, or C amplifier it wouldn't do any harm atall but it may not have sufficientcapacity to prevent the amplifier from demanding more from the battery.

there's not really any difference in brand when it comes to purchasing a capacitor they all do the same job only the size matters.

thanks again lenny, solving my issues. you should get your own web like askjeeves lol.

[HUS541N]

2 minutes ago, HUS541N said:

thanks again lenny, solving my issues. you should get your own web like askjeeves lol.

would you say 1.2 farad is okay for me or 2.4 farad.  thanks

[Lenny]

4 minutes ago, HUS541N said:

would you say 1.2 farad is okay for me or 2.4 farad.  thanks

If a 1.2 Fared Capacitor is available then go for it will be fine,

They usually start at 1.0 fared and increase in 0.5's 

so next would be 1.5, 2.0 etc.

overall you will only really use the capacitor or should I say; the capacitor will only achieve its full potential when the amplifier is being pushed to its limit as in your stereo is up to maximum setting, which won't be 90% of the time on day to day driving but it's comforting to know the capacitor is there to handle the demands when you do decide to rattle the shop Windows.

[HUS541N]

3 minutes ago, Lenny said:

If a 1.2 Fared Capacitor is available then go for it will be fine,

They usually start at 1.0 fared and increase in 0.5's 

so next would be 1.5, 2.0 etc.

overall you will only really use the capacitor or should I say; the capacitor will only achieve its full potential when the amplifier is being pushed to its limit as in your stereo is up to maximum setting, which won't be 90% of the time on day to day driving but it's comforting to know the capacitor is there to handle the demands when you do decide to rattle the shop Windows.

found a 1.2 farad, might just get that. also what fuse should i use, 80amp or 100amp

[Lenny]

15 minutes ago, HUS541N said:

found a 1.2 farad, might just get that. also what fuse should i use, 80amp or 100amp

The Amplifier manual will tell you what size is required perhaps 120Amp 

I recommend using a trip switch style fuse instead as there much easier to reset aswell as temporarily terminating the power here's some picture examples; 

Must be fitted within 12" Inches of the connection to the battery in the engine bay, I've bolted mine to the side of the battery box.

 

[HUS541N]

12 minutes ago, Lenny said:

The Amplifier manual will tell you what size is required perhaps 120Amp 

I recommend using a trip switch style fuse instead as there much easier to reset aswell as temporarily terminating the power here's some picture examples; 

Must be fitted within 18" Inches of the connection to the battery in the engine bay, I've bolted mine to the side of the battery box.

how comes you have two? is it recommended or its just a preference

[Lenny]

25 minutes ago, HUS541N said:

how comes you have two? is it recommended or its just a preference

I've got two separate Class D amplifiers fitted; 

4 Channel full range Stereo 400W amp

2 Channel bridged Mono 300W amp 

I could have run a single 0AWG power cable from the battery to the boot compartment and split it down to two 4AWG feeds to power both amplifiers just the same as running two separate 4AWG feeds but i had the cable purchased before realising that and zero gauge cable doesn't bend easy it's massive need hacksaw to cut it.

The same goes for 4AWG you can feed two 8AWG amplifiers from a single 4awg source if desired.

Regarding the amplifier choices then it would have been cheaper for me to install a single 5 channel amplifier unit but i required the panel with the 4 Channel amplifier mounted on it; to be removable in the event the rear seat needs folding down for cargo i can unplug the entire panel in seconds removing the amplifier panel then plug the Speakers in to a separate audio source socket feeding sound directly from the headunit itself bypassing the amplifier enabling the Speakers to continue operating while the back seat is folded down and amplifier isint connected.

 

[HUS541N]

9 minutes ago, Lenny said:

I've got two separate Class D amplifiers fitted; 

4 Channel full range Stereo amp

2 Channel bridged Mono amp 

I could have run a single 0AWG power cable from the battery to the boot compartment and split it down to two 4AWG feeds to power both amplifiers just the same as running two separate 4AWG feeds but i had the cable purchased before realising that. 

The same goes for 4AWG you can feed two 8AWG amplifiers from a single 4awg source.

Regarding the amplifier choices then it would have been cheaper to install a single 5 channel amplifier unit but i required the panel with 4 Channel amplifier to be removable in the event the rear seat needs folding down i can unplug the panel removing the amplifier panel then plug the speakers in to a separate audio source socket feeding sound directly from the headunit itself.

 

thanks again lenny, just ordering my 125amp fuse n 1.2 power cap. what you think

[Lenny]

Just now, HUS541N said:

thanks again lenny, just ordering my 125amp fuse n 1.2 power cap. what you think

If the manual for the amplifier states to use a 125Amp fuse then i think you have made the correct purchase mate, 😅

the 1.2 Fared Capacitor will do nicely, 

if it's bolt top terminals on the capacitor you purchased 

Then you will need to purchase another four crimp ring terminals and borrow a large crimped if possible; to fit them.

Connection will be from battery to capacitor, Then a seperate cable from ring terminal on the capacitor to a raw end in to the amplifier itself.

separate earth cable from capacitor to the chassis crimped ring on both ends.

another earth from amplifier to chassis crimped ring terminal on the capacitor to a raw end in to the amplifier itself.

[HUS541N]

1 minute ago, Lenny said:

If the manual for the amplifier states to use a 125Amp fuse then i think you have made the correct purchase mate, 😅

the 1.2 Fared Capacitor will do nicely, 

if it's bolt top terminals on the capacitor you purchased 

Then you will need to purchase another four crimp ring terminals and borrow a large crimped if possible; to fit them.

Connection will be from battery to capacitor, Then a seperate cable from ring terminal on the capacitor to a raw end in to the amplifier itself.

separate earth cable from capacitor to the chassis crimped ring on both ends.

another earth from amplifier to chassis crimped ring terminal on the capacitor to a raw end in to the amplifier itself.

the amp requires 150 amp, would 125amp be fine. this is the power cap i got ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Juice-JW1D-1-2-Farad-Power-Cap-capictor-with-digital-voltage-display-/122290461606?hash=item1c79145ba6:g:o~AAAOSwRgJXle7K

[Lenny]

25 minutes ago, HUS541N said:

the amp requires 150 amp, would 125amp be fine. this is the power cap i got ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Juice-JW1D-1-2-Farad-Power-Cap-capictor-with-digital-voltage-display-/122290461606?hash=item1c79145ba6:g:o~AAAOSwRgJXle7K

Unfortunately not mate,

Fitting a lower sized fuse will blow repeatedly as the amplifier draws power faster than the fuse allows.

it must be correct otherwise you could end up looking like this:

instead of this

the capacitor looks good much the same design as my own Connects2 1.0 Fared Capacitor.

[HUS541N]

Just now, Lenny said:

Unfortunately not mate,

Fitting a lower sized fuse will blow repeatedly as the amplifier draws power faster than the fuse allows.

it must be correct otherwise you could end up looking like this:

the capacitor looks good much the same design as my own Connects2 1.0 Fared Capacitor.

jheez that pic is scary, kinda putting me of lol, so should i get the 150 amp

[Lenny]

3 minutes ago, HUS541N said:

jheez that pic is scary, kinda putting me of lol, so should i get the 150 amp

If a 150Amp fuse is stated in the amplifiers manual as being the correct size required then Definitely yes you should.

can't deviate on cable connectors or fuse size that all have to be correct.

[HUS541N]

2 minutes ago, Lenny said:

Definitely yes,

can't deviate on cable connectors or fuse size that all have to be correct.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150-AMP-MIDI-FUSE-BLACK-MIDI-STRIP-LINK-FUSE-HOLDER-CAR-AUTO-HEAVY-DUTY-150A-/191994605738?var=&hash=item2cb3c530aa:m:mnJE1ML0V12oGTM70WVFDhA

 

what do you think

[Lenny]

2 minutes ago, HUS541N said:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150-AMP-MIDI-FUSE-BLACK-MIDI-STRIP-LINK-FUSE-HOLDER-CAR-AUTO-HEAVY-DUTY-150A-/191994605738?var=&hash=item2cb3c530aa:m:mnJE1ML0V12oGTM70WVFDhA

what do you think

This trip switch is a better option as you can reset it at the turn of a switch 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361477870745?redirect=mobile 

Better than old type and saves money as you never need another fuse.

 

[HUS541N]

2 minutes ago, Lenny said:

This trip switch is a better option as you can reset it at the turn of a switch 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361477870745?redirect=mobile 

Better than old type and saves money as you never need another fuse.

 

would the top be covered or i have to tape it around. doesn't these come with any fuse

[Lenny]

11 minutes ago, HUS541N said:

would the top be covered or i have to tape it around. doesn't these come with any fuse

They operate the same as the fueboard in your house or apartment that don't use a fuse there spring loaded and trip off when current is too high or if you press the trip button.

simple turn back on to reset, no replacing fuses ever, reset it in seconds.

the bolt terminals seem to remain exposed, connection would be positive ring terminal in and out.

the terminals seem to remain exposed so a bit of bathroom silicone smeared over them when finished would coat them like rubber preventing unwanted contact or shorting.

[HUS541N]

4 minutes ago, Lenny said:

They operate the same as the fueboard in your house or apartment that don't use a fuse there spring loaded and trip off when current is too high or if you press the trip button.

simple turn back on to reset, no replacing fuses ever, reset it in seconds.

the bolt terminals seem to remain exposed, connection would be positive ring terminal in and out.

the terminals seem to remain exposed so a bit of bathroom silicone smeared over them when finished would cost them like rubber preventing unwanted contact or shorting.

ill buy these n ill let you know how it is.

again lenny thanks 

[Lenny]

1 minute ago, HUS541N said:

ill buy these n ill let you know how it is.

again lenny thanks

No problem 👍

[HUS541N]

On 1/9/2017 at 11:39 PM, Lenny said:

No problem 👍

hi lenny,

 

wanted to know if china focus bumper diffuser is any good. also as i have a titanium 2008, would i need to change my bumper in order to fit the zetec s diffuser.

 

thanks

i did message on the post about this topic, but no reply 

[Lenny]

6 hours ago, HUS541N said:

hi lenny,

 

wanted to know if china focus bumper diffuser is any good. also as i have a titanium 2008, would i need to change my bumper in order to fit the zetec s diffuser.

 

thanks

i did message on the post about this topic, but no reply 

I've just respond to the same question you post on the guide here mate, sorry it took two hours to get a response 😉 Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS rear Diffuser Click Here