Sealing resin around an immersion element perhaps?

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think i will leave it until it leaks water.

I don't like the new look of this site, the background all blends in to the content, and there's lots of wasted space. :(

I came back to this thread to say exactly this!

dont like the look of this! 

Where's it start? Maybe a previous repair that dripped?

 
 
Air freshener causes car to explode in B&Q car park in Southend - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-essex-41179132
good job i dont smoke!!
 

I'm sure this is the second one with similar circumstances I've seen - both involving aerosols and sources of ignition.

Just make the weight of food simple and not less,multi packs are smaller and they say they are to go with meals /lunch boxes out of multi packs.

Stupid weights like 27gram 113gram etc,why cant they round them off as they do when they give you the info ''per 100gram is so calories''

A pack of walkers crisps,come on 32.5 give us 33 and then they have the cheek to put per 100grams is.

Rant over.

Our son's Aprilla scooter! Every week there's something else goes wrong with it and guess what softie has to try and fix it? I know next to nothing about bikes and our son is going through a self-centred/selfish/ungrateful stage but yet I still do it! 

On 09/09/2017 at 9:48 PM, Turvey said:

Our son's Aprilla scooter! Every week there's something else goes wrong with it and guess what softie has to try and fix it? I know next to nothing about bikes and our son is going through a self-centred/selfish/ungrateful stage but yet I still do it! 

That's Italian engineering for you, lol.

Our son's Aprilla scooter! Every week there's something else goes wrong with it and guess what softie has to try and fix it? I know next to nothing about bikes and our son is going through a self-centred/selfish/ungrateful stage but yet I still do it! 

Don't worry he'll grow out of it in about 10 years


Sent from my iPhone

8 hours ago, alexp999 said:

That's Italian engineering for you, lol.

It doesn't help that a previous owner obviously knew even less than me about bikes but didn't admit it, even to themselves!

1 hour ago, Philf1 said:

 

 

Don't worry he'll grow out of it in about 10 years


Sent from my iPhone

 

 

I certainly hope it will be LONG before that!  We've been spoilt with our daughter, she's 21 today, in that she doesn't go out, get drunk, have an attitude etc etc 

'I need a siesta righta nowa. Ehhh maybe I afix eet atomorrow. Anda thena maybe I a won't.'

I've amassed a few "don't likes" over the past 3 days.

I don't like the frequency of what has largely been unforecasted unseasonal heavy showers, or forecasted, but not for now but later showers!  It has had a major impact on my Mk2 Focus servicing/upgrading/adding mods  Added to which, when I'm not free to something, the weather has been completely dry

and then rushing to get something done in the tiny time slot between downpours, certain things have gone wrong or have been forgotten.

At the start, when replacing the inadequate and wrong 105A alternator for the  correct 150A, the top mounting bolt was seized and then round off as I attempted to remove it.  Anyone with the 1.8 TDCi engine knows knows the placement of the alternator top bolt is spectacularly awkward to get at; hidden in a deep recess behind the alternator's part of the coupling.  Only a ¼" drive wrench fill fit in the gap, and even then it can only be turned one ratchet click at a time.   A 75mm  extension  piece causes the wrench to hit the coupling, there is insufficient room to get a 100mm in.  Why Ford didn't mount it from the other way round from the starter motor end, where it could easily be got at is one of life's mysteries

Once the bolt  had rounded off, the only way to get it off, the only accessible way to get it off was cut/drill through the casing mount on the other end, parting the threaded part from the rest of the bolt.  I wasn't expecting the encased nut to extend that far into the alternator case  Drilling through the aluminium was quite straightforward, drilling through the hardened nut wasn't; even with cutting fluid: and whilst this was going on - I had to stop  every few minutes to get out of the sudden driving rain! together with the comedy moment of clearing away all my tools before the got too wet!

I then thought whilst I had everything removed to get at the alternator, I might as well change the timing belt and coolant pump. Which is pretty straight forward on the 1.8TDCi, once you've got everything out the way  Although the belt itself didn't need changing, I'd done it when I'd bought the car 2 years ago (as I always do when i buy cars) but I didn't do the coolant pump at the time, just the timing belt and tensioner.  I seem to recall my motor factor didn't have correct Gates kit (belt , tensioner and coolant pump) in stock: only the regular timing belt one at the time!

It was as I torqued up the engine mounting bracket to engine block that my next "don't like" occurred The upper bolt just sheared inside the block  This was a new bolt, only purchased from Foray's parts department the day before  and it was only 66 lbs torque too! More drilling whilst trying to dodge the rain!  Unfortunately the space between the block and the inner wing was insufficient to get my drill in, ideally the engine would need to be at least lifted out of the bay by around 300mm, or better still removed completely,  placed on a bench and drilled out using a drill press.

Which wasn't really an option.  I do however have a 90° attachment for drilling between tight rafters for electrical installation work, whilst not an engineering tool,  I'm not sure it's actually dead on 90°, but at least I could in theory use it to drill out the broken off bolt.  My screw extractors aren't long enough to fit down the bolt hole, so it was was drill it out and re-tap the thread: rather than drill a hole down the centre and extract the broken off bolt stub

Mounting a 3-way spirit level to the drill attachment, to keep everything nice and true I set about drilling out the stub.  Hampered all the while, by what seemed like an increase in the frequency of the rain showers, and for added awkwardness Molly clambering into the engine bay and generally getting in the way It took over an hour to do it! It was then back to Foray to get another engine mount bracket bolt and complain about the sheared off one.  Whilst it's a pain that Ford parts only seem to supply bolts in units of one, when you need many: here it was quite handy only to have buy one instead of a pack of many 

It was plain sailing after that, as I reassembled the engine until that is, just I'd thought I'd finished!  And a further intense heavy downpour had just started! Glancing at my magnetic parts tray I noticed a solitary M8 bolt! Which I instantly recognised as the the timing pin hole blanking plug - I'd forgotten to put back in after I'd removed the timing pin

Of course, the air con compressor and the alternator coupling are in the way, you can't even see the hole let alone feed in a short bolt into a deeply recessed hole balanced on a 150mm socket extension.  You can't get to it from above, the fuel pump and the alternator itself are in the way!  It was a further 1½ hour, between removing everything to get at it, stopping for rain and finally getting it ll back together.
 

 

I have decided to leave my timing belt / water pump for someone else - at least if it goes wrong I have someone to complain to . Not only that, but after reading about the dreaded AC pipe bursting after timing belts being done, much rather someone else do it.

After a year and a half or more of front end noise, which we've not managed to narrow down too much (although I think the top strut bearings are going, the garage agrees but said it is not worth doing at the moment), and people suggesting engine mount wear - I opened the bonnet to jump my mums Fiesta to find a puddle of oil on the left mount 

Can anyone confirm that the timing belt needs doing at 8 years / 100000 miles? I've only done 80k so far, but it is coming up to it's 8 year service next year. If so, it's failed at the perfect time to get it replaced with no added labour (since it needs to be removed to do the timing belt!)

4 hours ago, GMX said:

I've amassed a few "don't likes" over the past 3 days.

I don't like the frequency of what has largely been unforecasted unseasonal heavy showers, or forecasted, but not for now but later showers!  It has had a major impact on my Mk2 Focus servicing/upgrading/adding mods  Added to which, when I'm not free to something, the weather has been completely dry

and then rushing to get something done in the tiny time slot between downpours, certain things have gone wrong or have been forgotten.

At the start, when replacing the inadequate and wrong 105A alternator for the  correct 150A, the top mounting bolt was seized and then round off as I attempted to remove it.  Anyone with the 1.8 TDCi engine knows knows the placement of the alternator top bolt is spectacularly awkward to get at; hidden in a deep recess behind the alternator's part of the coupling.  Only a ¼" drive wrench fill fit in the gap, and even then it can only be turned one ratchet click at a time.   A 75mm  extension  piece causes the wrench to hit the coupling, there is insufficient room to get a 100mm in.  Why Ford didn't mount it from the other way round from the starter motor end, where it could easily be got at is one of life's mysteries

Once the bolt  had rounded off, the only way to get it off, the only accessible way to get it off was cut/drill through the casing mount on the other end, parting the threaded part from the rest of the bolt.  I wasn't expecting the encased nut to extend that far into the alternator case  Drilling through the aluminium was quite straightforward, drilling through the hardened nut wasn't; even with cutting fluid: and whilst this was going on - I had to stop  every few minutes to get out of the sudden driving rain! together with the comedy moment of clearing away all my tools before the got too wet!

I then thought whilst I had everything removed to get at the alternator, I might as well change the timing belt and coolant pump. Which is pretty straight forward on the 1.8TDCi, once you've got everything out the way  Although the belt itself didn't need changing, I'd done it when I'd bought the car 2 years ago (as I always do when i buy cars) but I didn't do the coolant pump at the time, just the timing belt and tensioner.  I seem to recall my motor factor didn't have correct Gates kit (belt , tensioner and coolant pump) in stock: only the regular timing belt one at the time!

It was as I torqued up the engine mounting bracket to engine block that my next "don't like" occurred The upper bolt just sheared inside the block  This was a new bolt, only purchased from Foray's parts department the day before  and it was only 66 lbs torque too! More drilling whilst trying to dodge the rain!  Unfortunately the space between the block and the inner wing was insufficient to get my drill in, ideally the engine would need to be at least lifted out of the bay by around 300mm, or better still removed completely,  placed on a bench and drilled out using a drill press.

Which wasn't really an option.  I do however have a 90° attachment for drilling between tight rafters for electrical installation work, whilst not an engineering tool,  I'm not sure it's actually dead on 90°, but at least I could in theory use it to drill out the broken off bolt.  My screw extractors aren't long enough to fit down the bolt hole, so it was was drill it out and re-tap the thread: rather than drill a hole down the centre and extract the broken off bolt stub

Mounting a 3-way spirit level to the drill attachment, to keep everything nice and true I set about drilling out the stub.  Hampered all the while, by what seemed like an increase in the frequency of the rain showers, and for added awkwardness Molly clambering into the engine bay and generally getting in the way It took over an hour to do it! It was then back to Foray to get another engine mount bracket bolt and complain about the sheared off one.  Whilst it's a pain that Ford parts only seem to supply bolts in units of one, when you need many: here it was quite handy only to have buy one instead of a pack of many 

It was plain sailing after that, as I reassembled the engine until that is, just I'd thought I'd finished!  And a further intense heavy downpour had just started! Glancing at my magnetic parts tray I noticed a solitary M8 bolt! Which I instantly recognised as the the timing pin hole blanking plug - I'd forgotten to put back in after I'd removed the timing pin

Of course, the air con compressor and the alternator coupling are in the way, you can't even see the hole let alone feed in a short bolt into a deeply recessed hole balanced on a 150mm socket extension.  You can't get to it from above, the fuel pump and the alternator itself are in the way!  It was a further 1½ hour, between removing everything to get at it, stopping for rain and finally getting it ll back together.
 

 

And that's why I stopped working on cars after I scrapped a MK3 Cortina 25+ years ago! I admire your determination and tenacity! Hats off to you Sir 

I've amassed a few "don't likes" over the past 3 days.

I don't like the frequency of what has largely been unforecasted unseasonal heavy showers, or forecasted, but not for now but later showers!  It has had a major impact on my Mk2 Focus servicing/upgrading/adding mods  Added to which, when I'm not free to something, the weather has been completely dry

and then rushing to get something done in the tiny time slot between downpours, certain things have gone wrong or have been forgotten.

At the start, when replacing the inadequate and wrong 105A alternator for the  correct 150A, the top mounting bolt was seized and then round off as I attempted to remove it.  Anyone with the 1.8 TDCi engine knows knows the placement of the alternator top bolt is spectacularly awkward to get at; hidden in a deep recess behind the alternator's part of the coupling.  Only a ¼" drive wrench fill fit in the gap, and even then it can only be turned one ratchet click at a time.   A 75mm  extension  piece causes the wrench to hit the coupling, there is insufficient room to get a 100mm in.  Why Ford didn't mount it from the other way round from the starter motor end, where it could easily be got at is one of life's mysteries

Once the bolt  had rounded off, the only way to get it off, the only accessible way to get it off was cut/drill through the casing mount on the other end, parting the threaded part from the rest of the bolt.  I wasn't expecting the encased nut to extend that far into the alternator case  Drilling through the aluminium was quite straightforward, drilling through the hardened nut wasn't; even with cutting fluid: and whilst this was going on - I had to stop  every few minutes to get out of the sudden driving rain! together with the comedy moment of clearing away all my tools before the got too wet!

I then thought whilst I had everything removed to get at the alternator, I might as well change the timing belt and coolant pump. Which is pretty straight forward on the 1.8TDCi, once you've got everything out the way  Although the belt itself didn't need changing, I'd done it when I'd bought the car 2 years ago (as I always do when i buy cars) but I didn't do the coolant pump at the time, just the timing belt and tensioner.  I seem to recall my motor factor didn't have correct Gates kit (belt , tensioner and coolant pump) in stock: only the regular timing belt one at the time!

It was as I torqued up the engine mounting bracket to engine block that my next "don't like" occurred The upper bolt just sheared inside the block  This was a new bolt, only purchased from Foray's parts department the day before  and it was only 66 lbs torque too! More drilling whilst trying to dodge the rain!  Unfortunately the space between the block and the inner wing was insufficient to get my drill in, ideally the engine would need to be at least lifted out of the bay by around 300mm, or better still removed completely,  placed on a bench and drilled out using a drill press.

Which wasn't really an option.  I do however have a 90° attachment for drilling between tight rafters for electrical installation work, whilst not an engineering tool,  I'm not sure it's actually dead on 90°, but at least I could in theory use it to drill out the broken off bolt.  My screw extractors aren't long enough to fit down the bolt hole, so it was was drill it out and re-tap the thread: rather than drill a hole down the centre and extract the broken off bolt stub

Mounting a 3-way spirit level to the drill attachment, to keep everything nice and true I set about drilling out the stub.  Hampered all the while, by what seemed like an increase in the frequency of the rain showers, and for added awkwardness Molly clambering into the engine bay and generally getting in the way It took over an hour to do it! It was then back to Foray to get another engine mount bracket bolt and complain about the sheared off one.  Whilst it's a pain that Ford parts only seem to supply bolts in units of one, when you need many: here it was quite handy only to have buy one instead of a pack of many 

It was plain sailing after that, as I reassembled the engine until that is, just I'd thought I'd finished!  And a further intense heavy downpour had just started! Glancing at my magnetic parts tray I noticed a solitary M8 bolt! Which I instantly recognised as the the timing pin hole blanking plug - I'd forgotten to put back in after I'd removed the timing pin

Of course, the air con compressor and the alternator coupling are in the way, you can't even see the hole let alone feed in a short bolt into a deeply recessed hole balanced on a 150mm socket extension.  You can't get to it from above, the fuel pump and the alternator itself are in the way!  It was a further 1½ hour, between removing everything to get at it, stopping for rain and finally getting it ll back together.

 

 

welcome to my world. lol

only difference is i get paid for this grief.

 

11 hours ago, GMX said:

I don't like the frequency of what has largely been unforecasted unseasonal heavy showers, or forecasted, but not for now but later showers!  It has had a major impact on my Mk2 Focus servicing/upgrading/adding mods

Ouch, that sounds like a very frustrating 3 days! I always dread rounded & sheared bolts, it is my worst nightmare when working on cars. I would not have the tools to drill out in awkward spaces. And with my only car out of action, I would be a bit stuck!

I thought I was having a hard enough time just servicing the brakes, and finding and treating the rust that is starting to attack parts of my 11 year old car, between the showers. The rear suspension, inside the rear wheel arches, and the passenger sill are being attacked. A bit disappointing. My Vauxhall did better than that! Though it made up for it mechanically, with lots of expensive faults, like cat & head gasket.

Those plastic strips under the sills are a bit of a dodgy design. If they are intended as stone chip protectors, they make very good dirt and wet traps, the sill was rusting in a few places above the strip. And the plastic clips holding them on are a menace, when jammed with dirt. They seem completely pointless with the 4 or 5 torx bolts as well.

6 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Those plastic strips under the sills are a bit of a dodgy design. If they are intended as stone chip protectors, they make very good dirt and wet traps, the sill was rusting in a few places above the strip. And the plastic clips holding them on are a menace, when jammed with dirt. They seem completely pointless with the 4 or 5 torx bolts as well.

Oddly enough, I removed my sill covers tonight to find a huge quantity of congealed mud and detritus underneath them including a disprortionate amount of pine needles, when I removed them to check on the integrity of the sills  it was even worse at the front end of the sill behind the front wheel house covers!    There was enough to fill 3 or 4 mugs or a family pudding basin!

It was surprising to find that the sills are all ok with all that wetness pressed up to them though.  Rust has yet to visit my sills but has "eaten" most of the dust cover on my shock absorbers, oddly more on the offside one than the nearside.

I also "lost" all the poo bags I had on me, on Pipper's evening walk!  A sudden gust of wind,  just as I was picking up Pipper's first poo of the stroll  (adjacent to the red Zafira that she always goes next to), sent all of my spare bags heavenwards, over an 8ft fence and into someone's garden!  Fortunately, it was quite a sizeable one and she didn't feel the need for another, and prevented me facing the "what do I pick that up with now" dilemma

7 hours ago, Micro said:

Not only that, but after reading about the dreaded AC pipe bursting after timing belts being done, much rather someone else do it.

I've not come across that but then again, the air con compressor is rather vulnerable just hanging in mid air by it's pipes, whilst doing the timing belt.

 

 

2 hours ago, GMX said:

I've not come across that but then again, the air con compressor is rather vulnerable just hanging in mid air by it's pipes, whilst doing the timing belt.

As I understand what the chap was saying (an airconditioning engineer) - when the timing belt is done, some may need to use a puller on the pulley at the bottom of the engine - but to access this the engine may need to be dropped a little to gain access, which then puts tension onto the AC pipe at the rearmost of the engine, and damages the internal steel braid.

A few cases of these pipes going bang once regassed, sometimes a little while after, and at nearly £300 a bit costly!

 

This guy: 

 

34 minutes ago, GMX said:

but (rust) has "eaten" most of the dust cover on my shock absorbers, oddly more on the offside

Snap!

I don't like discovering this morning, my Philips RQ1251 shaver has the dreaded and documented completely discharged and failure to recharge ever again syndrome.  If I still have the receipt it's just still under the manufacturers 3 year warranty; but only just!   According to Google, Philips will just send out a new body and an envelope to return the dead one without quibbling.  Apparently, it's a known fault right across the RQ12 series. 

14 hours ago, Micro said:

As I understand what the chap was saying (an airconditioning engineer) - when the timing belt is done, some may need to use a puller on the pulley at the bottom of the engine - but to access this the engine may need to be dropped a little to gain access, which then puts tension onto the AC pipe at the rearmost of the engine, and damages the internal steel braid.

A few cases of these pipes going bang once regassed, sometimes a little while after, and at nearly £300 a bit costly!

 

This guy: 

 

It only affects the Mk2 1.6 petrol engine apparently, which probably explains why I've not come across it.

14 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Snap!

My offside one was just like that until I probed it with a screwdriver, most of it fell off and now is a bare shaft with rusty hat at the top end!  The nearside one isn't as bad, which is quite odd.  Usually the nearside is considerably worse than the offside

 

 

 

 

36 minutes ago, GMX said:

Usually the nearside is considerably worse than the offside

 

 

 

 

Maybe you're driving on the wrong side of the road? :)

Or driving through too many puddles


Sent from my iPhone

2 hours ago, Philf1 said:

Or driving through too many puddles


Sent from my iPhone

You're probably right with that Phil.

The road that links the relief road with the A349 floods every time there is a smattering of rain.  I drive that road at least 4 times a day, flooded or not!

If I were you @GMX I would approach Phillips about a replacement body for your shaver. If they know it is a well documented and widely known fault then they may just honor you claim


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I didn't know about this. I got one (it's the sensor3d one, right? With the jet fluid dock?) a couple of Christmases ago and its been fine so far, though it's telling me I need a new head for it...

Like last week it was an alternator top mount: I have another tonight  but far more inaccessible that one  I could at least get at the other end, tonight's rounded off bolt has a welded on nut that more inaccessible than itself

The top offside rear shock absorber bolt, who is inconveniently obscured from view by the sub chassis and coil spring mount and at the rear, the spare wheel well blocks direct access to it. All socketry has to go via a UJ, rendering any impact tool more or less ineffective  I have broken 2 UJs so far trying to not to let that way, whilst I tried.  Admittedly they weren't impact rated UJs just regular ones

There too much flexibilty when you add a breaker bar, to the already long multi-extensions (to get around the fuel pipes that also in the way) with the UJ on the end before the socket.  My regular wrenches aren't long enough to get the torque.

It's now soaking in GT85: PlusGas would be better but I don't know where you can get it from locally (and in the evening too).  tomorrow I shall try heating the nut end with Mapp gas torch whilst freezing the bolt with plumbers arctic spray.

On 9/16/2017 at 11:27 PM, Phil21185 said:

I didn't know about this. I got one (it's the sensor3d one, right? With the jet fluid dock?) a couple of Christmases ago and its been fine so far, though it's telling me I need a new head for it...

Yep that's the one