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lasse1955

Fix Durashift Gearbox Problem Easy.

131 posts in this topic

Hello all!

Recently purchased a 2003 Semi Auto Fiesta, the person who sold it to me quite clearly failed to mention it was playing up, it run for about 5 days fine then one day went to start it and nothing.

When it drives it feels like a brand new car it has only done 63k.

Is there anybody around Essex or closer who would be willing to assist me in repairing my car? I have been quoted ridiculous amounts to fix it and to convert it to a manual. If someone is up for the job i will pay, my assistance will also be at hand too. With a child on the way and saving money being pinnacle i cannot afford to see this money i have just spent be thrown away because all because of this scumbag.

I am quite desperate to get it going again, too much of a car to scrap!

Thank you!

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Bash the Actuators with a hammer then spray weekly or more with WD40. I did this last July and have now done 8000 miles without another problem.

Also search for Durashift on EBAY . Look for EBAY member TOP-DEAL-AGAIN . He dose repairs in Basildon.

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There is another post on this subject here;

Durashift Fix Using Ebay Type Vcm Diagnostic.
Best of luck!

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Thanks -- Interesting.

Im still spraying with WD40 every few days. Now done 10000 miles and no problems !

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I have to thank you all enormously, and especially Lasse1955 the original poster. We had the usual clunking and then stopping stuck in gear with weird things on LCD display. We tried freeing the gear actuators, and although they were stiff, they were not siezed. We were at our wits end, and thinking of scrapping the car which would have broke my heart as I love the old thing, as it wouldn't be viable to have the car into Fords due to cost. We had recently bought 4 new tyres, and a new battery, so that also would have peeved us a bit!

I read a post on here from Stuart T140v and he had the exact problem we had, and suggested the clutch actuator. We found a place in Swansea that would overhaul it and the ECU for £145 including postage here http://www.ecusolutionswales.com/ford-fusion-14-clutchgearbox-actuator-repair-48-p.asp

Their service was 1st class, and it was repaired and returned the next day. Hubby fitted it, bled the clutch/brakes and we too had the grating gears when trying to select reverse, and the lurch to go forward whist brake depressed, as Stuart had. We followed his post from page 5 (yes I know I should have quoted it) :P ...........

"A happy conclusion to the durashift nightmare, had another go at bleeding the ecu/clutch actuator this afternoon removed battery etc for easy access to the bleed nippple and used a 50ml plastic syringe (removed 3 syringes of fluid out of the reservoir to make room) and some 6mm rubber petrol pipe, and forced the fluid in through the bleed nipple I could hear the air being moved round the system, when the syring was empty I shut the bleed valve untill another full syring was attached and opened up and emptied the syringe, did it one more time put averything back together started the car all lights came on then went out as they should tried into forward went into 1st no problem, tried reverse, no probs so backed off the ramps."

and we pushed fluid back in with a syringe, and hey presto it is now running like new - gears are smooth, and I have my little car back. It flew through its MOT yesterday - so now our only problem is the leaking oil seal on the drive shaft. Hubby replaced it already, but like others it seems, it is still leaking. I have been reading that this is a common problem with them, and hubby thinks there is room for another seal alongside the new one (which is exactly the same as the one that came out). Anyone else had any experience with this? I will start another thread in a mo, but wondered if we have to buy an original oil seal from Ford? The last one came from Europarts who generally do have good quality spares.

Please accept my thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread :D

jeebowhite and TTT like this

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Good post.

I agree lasse1955 did a good job - he's probably moved to a Rolls by now.

Good your problem is solved.

Tnx for the place in Swansea - noted. I'm still using WD 2x a week all over the gear actuators and around the wire joints and the clutch actuator. smooth changes - no problems.

Juney00 likes this

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Good post.

I agree lasse1955 did a good job - he's probably moved to a Rolls by now.

Good your problem is solved.

Tnx for the place in Swansea - noted. I'm still using WD 2x a week all over the gear actuators and around the wire joints and the clutch actuator. smooth changes - no problems.

Try gt85 instead.. it's more of a lubricant instead of penetrating fluid so lasts longer than wd40. Cheaper too

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Not sure about GT85 for this job. Because It needs to penetrate so it finds its way under and up and inside etc. Also WD wont affect electronics.

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A happy conclusion to the durashift nightmare, had another go at bleeding the ecu/clutch actuator this afternoon removed battery etc for easy access to the bleed nippple and used a 50ml plastic syringe (removed 3 syringes of fluid out of the reservoir to make room) and some 6mm rubber petrol pipe, and forced the fluid in through the bleed nipple I could hear the air being moved round the system, when the syring was empty I shut the bleed valve untill another full syring was attached and opened up and emptied the syringe, did it one more time put averything back together started the car all lights came on then went out as they should tried into forward went into 1st no problem, tried reverse, no probs so backed off the ramps.

Got the wife to test drive it as she uses it mostly, says its OK.

No thanks to Ford who wanted to charge me £1760 parts with no guarantee that it would work and charging me £80 to put it on the computer and not be able to identify the problem.

Thanks to www.ecu-testing.com who repaired my ECU/clutch actuator in a week and S&D transmissions Doncaster identifying the problem.

Hello there,

my durashift started making problems again, Ford has replaced the old one with this new in March 2014 and it costed more then 1800 euros to me.

does anybody know how to do this fluid modification that T140v has mentioned in his post in page 5, if you have any picture it would be great.

thanks a lot!

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Hi all!

My 2004 1.4 TDCI Durashift FUSION (140,000km) won't start and I cannot afford to pay 2600 to Ford to get it repaired.

The durashift orange light is on. Time to time it starts, everything is working but only for ten linutes, then it stops. i never faced troubles while changing the gears.

Could someone help to investigate about the troubles I found in the forum (thank you for sharing, guys!)?

Battery and fuses are ok.

The wiring loop between gear actuators and clutch actuators is ok. Are there any other wiring to be worth checking?

The gear actuators are freely sliding and both motors works. Could it be their electronics?

How the clutch actuator may be checked?

Could the problem be the joystick to change the geras itself (when I move it, sometime the durashift light switch off for a second)?

Thank you for helping me.

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Hi all!

My 2004 1.4 TDCI Durashift FUSION (140,000km) won't start and I cannot afford to pay 2600 to Ford to get it repaired.

The durashift orange light is on. Time to time it starts, everything is working but only for ten linutes, then it stops. i never faced troubles while changing the gears.

Could someone help to investigate about the troubles I found in the forum (thank you for sharing, guys!)?

Battery and fuses are ok.

The wiring loop between gear actuators and clutch actuators is ok. Are there any other wiring to be worth checking?

The gear actuators are freely sliding and both motors works. Could it be their electronics?

How the clutch actuator may be checked?

Could the problem be the joystick to change the geras itself (when I move it, sometime the durashift light switch off for a second)?

Thank you for helping me.

hi my friend,

as you will see, the post above yours is mine.

if your gears are being shifted properly it means your actuators are ok and not stucked.

I recommend you to send your TCU - Transmission Control Unit to an electronics mechanic in your area but find a specialized one and speak with the technician there, they will check the part at a cost ( in my case Germany it was 80 Euros and the complete repair costed 270 smth), it is really easy to remove it, take out the headlight and the black part you see under it, which is connected to the 3 loom wiring, is the TCU. forget about the gear knob and others, whatever I read until now here and elswhere and whatever I experienced with my own car, was actuators or TCU.

just noticed that the fall and end of spring are the times mostly people write here, maybe the temperature change has an effect on our poor gearboxes - well in the owners manual it says that the orange attention light of transmission is a warning of overheated transmission but ford said me that the system does not have any temperature sensor, which I doubt.

anyway, tell us what you did in the coming days and write if you need any help

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Dear FiestaLudwing,

Thank you so much for your answer.

I understood TCM is embedded into the clutch actuator.

Could you confirm the attached picture is the part I am to dissasemble to get it repaired, please?

Thank you

post-68979-0-87670800-1443608339_thumb.j

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That is the part to remove, and send it all to http://www.ecutesting.com/?gclid=CLjZ0KvGnsgCFUJz2wod1acKiw they offer a very competative price and turn round.

When you refit the ECU unit and connect all fluid lines etc you need to empty the clutch fluid reservoir then reverse bleed the clutch system from the nipple on the gearbox bell housing, I used a large syringe, you can hear the bubbles moving through the unit, you will need to open and shut the bleed nipple when refilling the syring.

Keep and eye on the level in the reservoir , and ensure it is at the correct level when done.

That should fix your problem and the warning light will go out once the car has been driven a few times.

Regards and good luck

Stuart.

GingerFlame likes this

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Thank you FiestaLudwings and T140v,

The gear actuator is now shipped to ECUTesting.

I am worrying about the bleeding and I do not understand all above instructions as English is not my mother language and I am not so familiar with the semi automatic gearbox (I am becoming more and more familiar now...)

Is it in this order?

1) empty the clutch fluid reservoir

2) refit the ECU, reconnect the fluid lines

3) reverse bleeding

Sylvain

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Hi all,

I have some news as I received my clutch actuator (I made a mistake in my previous post, it was not the gear actuator but the clutch actuator). ECU testing repaired the motor and the SW passed their tests.

I refitted it and bleeded the clutch thanks to an automatic bleeder.

I switched on the car but still the defect orange lamp (Durashift issue) and no ignition.

I removed + and - wires from the battery and connected together for 10 seconds.

The engine started, no defect lamp but the gearbox tries and does not succeed in going to gear 1. Then the defect lamp reappeared. I tried rear gear but it was even worse as there was a big "bang" inside the gear box.

I reconnected + and - for 10 second, and it is the same : the engine starts, no defect lamp, cannot shift to gear 1, then defect lamps apperar. I did not dared trying rear gear.

Thus the nightmare continues, would you have any advice, guys?

Thank you for your precious support.

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Hi all,

I have some news as I received my clutch actuator (I made a mistake in my previous post, it was not the gear actuator but the clutch actuator). ECU testing repaired the motor and the SW passed their tests.

I refitted it and bleeded the clutch thanks to an automatic bleeder.

I switched on the car but still the defect orange lamp (Durashift issue) and no ignition.

I removed + and - wires from the battery and connected together for 10 seconds.

The engine started, no defect lamp but the gearbox tries and does not succeed in going to gear 1. Then the defect lamp reappeared. I tried rear gear but it was even worse as there was a big "bang" inside the gear box.

I reconnected + and - for 10 second, and it is the same : the engine starts, no defect lamp, cannot shift to gear 1, then defect lamps apperar. I did not dared trying rear gear.

Thus the nightmare continues, would you have any advice, guys?

Thank you for your precious support.

When you bled the clutch, did you force some fluid back into the bleed nipple? Ours was like yours until we did that, then it worked! We used a syringe with pipe attached - put over the bleed nipple and forced some back in. Try it, and I bet it works for you. Good luck

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Hi , if you bled the clutch with a pressure system connected to the fluid reservoir then there is still air in the ECU, the system needs to be reverse bled pumping fluid into the nipple on the gearbox, took about 3 X 50 cc syringe full of fluid to do it. Remember to remove some from the reservoir before you start or you will have fluid everywhere.

And yes mine went bang when I tried to go into reverse, but was fine after the reverse bleed.

GingerFlame and Juney00 like this

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Thank you very much, hope is back!

I will try next week and I will be back to you.

Juney00 likes this

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This is a great topic and I have had the actuator issue with my Ford Fusion 2004 but slightly different to the examples given.

The fusion would not start and was stuck in gear, so could not be moved. I followed lasse's excellent advice and took the actuator off and found that the actuator was stuck in the bush. I reamed out the bush and the actuator moves freely now. I also checked the wiring looms by taking them off and checking for corrosion and they were in excellent condition.

On replacing everything I find that the lcd display shows gear changes and I can see the slide arm is moving the actuator (I tested the actuator motors when I took it apart and they are working). However, the car will not start. All I hear when I turn the key is the fuel pump pressurising.

I assume that the problem lies with the tcm and the plan is to remove that and send it to the recommended company for testing.

My problem is that I am not sure where to detach the hydraulic pipes.

Does anyone have the time to describe how you took the tcm off and if possible post a few pictures. My main issue is with detaching the pipes from the tcm.

Thanks for any help.

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Dear forum members, FiestaLudwings, T140v, Juney00,

I am very glad to inform you that the reverse bleeding solved the problem and I made 200 km witout any gear problems !

Thank you very much for you understanding and great piece of advice!

The only drawvback is that after half an hour driving, the speed indicators indicate only roughly the half of the actual speed. I have never noticed that before the big drurashift issue.

I am so happy to be able to use my car now!

Juney00 likes this

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Hydraulic pipes;

This is a great topic and I have had the actuator issue with my Ford Fusion 2004 but slightly different to the examples given.
The fusion would not start and was stuck in gear, so could not be moved. I followed lasse's excellent advice and took the actuator off and found that the actuator was stuck in the bush. I reamed out the bush and the actuator moves freely now. I also checked the wiring looms by taking them off and checking for corrosion and they were in excellent condition.
On replacing everything I find that the lcd display shows gear changes and I can see the slide arm is moving the actuator (I tested the actuator motors when I took it apart and they are working). However, the car will not start. All I hear when I turn the key is the fuel pump pressurising.
I assume that the problem lies with the tcm and the plan is to remove that and send it to the recommended company for testing.
My problem is that I am not sure where to detach the hydraulic pipes.
Does anyone have the time to describe how you took the tcm off and if possible post a few pictures. My main issue is with detaching the pipes from the tcm.
Thanks for any help.

I have an '03 Fusion more or less identical to the fiesta. If there were no design changes between 03 and 04, as I remember it, there are only a few things to do. Disconnect the wiring, (funny clip arrangement, don't force anything.) disconnect the incomming brake fluid and disconnect the High Pressure outgoing side near the bottom. A black plastic tube with a quick detachable fastener halfway along. First, you must lift a wire "U" shaped clip that prevents it seperating. (There is a little seal in the joint, take care to replace it properly or it will leak under pressure.) at the bottom of the unit Remove one bolt/screw from the body and lift upwards to release it from the rubber mounting lugs in the base. Very simple.

If you google for Durashift problems in "search" you'll find acres of stuff on the subject.

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This is a great topic and I have had the actuator issue with my Ford Fusion 2004 but slightly different to the examples given.

The fusion would not start and was stuck in gear, so could not be moved. I followed lasse's excellent advice and took the actuator off and found that the actuator was stuck in the bush. I reamed out the bush and the actuator moves freely now. I also checked the wiring looms by taking them off and checking for corrosion and they were in excellent condition.

On replacing everything I find that the lcd display shows gear changes and I can see the slide arm is moving the actuator (I tested the actuator motors when I took it apart and they are working). However, the car will not start. All I hear when I turn the key is the fuel pump pressurising.

I assume that the problem lies with the tcm and the plan is to remove that and send it to the recommended company for testing.

My problem is that I am not sure where to detach the hydraulic pipes.

Does anyone have the time to describe how you took the tcm off and if possible post a few pictures. My main issue is with detaching the pipes from the tcm.

Thanks for any help.

Did you try disconnecting the battery? I believe this resets the TCM, worth a try anyway, good luck

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Thanks for the tips lilo and it looks like I will need to send the time off.

Thanks to Juney too. I have disconnected the battery and few times and tried the other suggestions on the forum including holding the two battery wires together for 10 seconds and disconnecting the battery and leaving the lights on for 3 hours and then reconnecting and letting the motors run (unfortunately the actuators didn't run).

I appreciate your help but any other ideas on the tcm.

Juney, didn't you send you tcm off for the software to be checked? That would my plan next unless there is anything else anyone can suggest?

Thank again for your help lilo and Juney.

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Thanks for the tips lilo and it looks like I will need to send the time off.

Thanks to Juney too. I have disconnected the battery and few times and tried the other suggestions on the forum including holding the two battery wires together for 10 seconds and disconnecting the battery and leaving the lights on for 3 hours and then reconnecting and letting the motors run (unfortunately the actuators didn't run).

I appreciate your help but any other ideas on the tcm.

Juney, didn't you send you tcm off for the software to be checked? That would my plan next unless there is anything else anyone can suggest?

Thank again for your help lilo and Juney.

No we only sent the actuator off, but the ECU is attached, so the whole thing was reconditioned. Even though you freed yours, maybe it still has a problem. The bushes in ours were completely knackered. For the price we paid it was money well spent. We were thinking of scrapping the car, and it still drives like a dream. The company I mentioned before will actually refund some of your money if it doesn't have a problem. I don't know what goes wrong with the ECU, and whether there was a problem with ours or not. They rang to say it was ready, and I asked if it was poorly, and he said "oh yes, very poorly". Probably as I'm a woman he didn't go into more than that lol

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Just speaking to hubby, and at one stage we had everything lighting up, but the car not starting. I don't think you would regret sending it away. We hooked up the fluid pipes with sticky tape to save the fluid draining, and to avoid an airlock :)

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