53 replies to this topic

[ajt]

Driving back to work today after liunch, put foot down a bit in second (to get through traffic light, which was still on green but about to change), I felt the car start to pull, heard a whoosh sound followed by a muffled pop and then loss of power.

 

I limped back into work, getting a whining noise on acceleration and acceleration was very poor, struggling to get to 20 up a hill.

 

I then limped home about 5.30 and took the engine cover off expecting to see the intercooler pipe blown off, but it wasn't. I looked around the pipes I could get to, but could not see any splits or displaced pipes.

 

I also removed the inlet to the turbo and could spin the turbo. The spindle has no in/out movement, but does have slight up/down wobble.

 

I should also like to point out that over the last couple of month I have noticed a tghe car doesn't pull as good as it has in the past. (just put it down to cold weather) and fuel consumption has gone up to (again put it down to cold weather).

 

Last oild change was 5 months ago and the intercooler pipe was also replaced about same time, due to split in elbow.

 

Anybody have any thoughts as to what to check in the morning when the sun rises?

 

(TDCi 1.6 2007)

[salsheikh]

i would have guessed a opped hose but you have already checked this. have you checked the hoses at the intercooler?

is it smoking a lot? if i is them im saying hose has popped off, it happened to me.

 

whereabouts in warks are you? im in nuneaton

[stef123]

I hate to say it but i don't think the turbo should have movement in it like you describe

 

although that movement might disappear when the oil is flowing round it..

[ajt]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

 

@salsheikh

I'm in Rugby, just down the road!

I have checked the intercooler hose on the drivers side, and guess there is one on the passenger side, but due to fading light I could not see it.

Not smoking so as I noticed.

 

 

@stef123

The play is no worse than when I got the car just over a year ago. I have never had a turbo before, so have no feel for how much play is permissible.

[TDCiST]

Best to get the error codes read, then we may know more to be able to help...

 

just to satisfy my curiosity, have you thought about checking the fuel filter? If its got any shiny metal swarf in it, that can signify the end of the HP Pump, and my old focus wooshed and popped before losing all power when it went...

[salsheikh]

there will be very minimal movement on the turbo...a millimeter or so but not much

 

if you can take the front grill off, pull it towards you and it will start to come away..

you should be able to check the hose on the i/c on both sides.

 

you not got the flashlight app on your smart phone? i find it very handy!

[ajt]

Ok, pulled grille out abit, but still cannot see hose on passenger side, as body work obstructs it. I'll have to take airbox out I think.

[salsheikh]

best leave it for tomorrow then mate

[ajt]

@TDCiST

I never considered the fuel pump, as it still runs. It just runs like a dog, lacking any power, struggling to get to 30 on the level and 20 on a gradient. The MIL light is not on, but I have a code reader and will go out later and check. GF here at the moment, she'll be gone by 9, off saving lifes (nurse)!

[salsheikh]

i'm ready for my bed bath!

[ajt]

OK checked scan codes and came up with the following

 

1. P0319 Rough Road Sensor B Signal Circuit (Probably triggered a couple of weeks ago when I hit a massive pot hole)

2. P1936 Clutch Switch / Sensor Signal (no idea)

3. P1402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Metering O r i f i c e Restricted (<- This looks interesting)

 

The above word had to be spaced, because it was removed if not!

 

I cleared the codes and then drove around the block. No codes returned.

 

What would be the symptoms if the wastegate diagphram was punctured or ripped?

[ajt]

i'm ready for my bed bath!

 

You'll be lucky, I have to do it myself!

[FOCA]

There is a switch on the clutch pedal, to tell the ECU when the pedal is up or down, (no2)

 

If the turbo diapram is broken the wastegate will not open (fixed vane turbo so the boost may increase untill the hoses blow off) or the vanes will be stuck in one position (good pickup but too moch boost at the top end (like fixed vane with no operating wastegate) OR very slow pickup but boost safe)

 

No 3 - EGR - put a blanking plate on it period - this is the code for a faulty or restricted EGR (or interestingly, for a plate already being fitted)

 

A solid, stainless steel plate will cure all sorts of problems

 

A boost gauge is a great item to have fitted to a turbo car and can help keep an eye on turbo performance and help diagnose problems

[STEADS]

Have you got a scanner that shows what fuel pressure you are getting it  has to be a certain psi to even fire up i think if i remember correctly when i had problems on my 2.0 about 4000 ish but if its firing and low could point towards your pump being naff worth a look

[ajt]

OK was up at the crack of dawn and check all the boost pipes for any splits. Couldn't see any so bit the bullet and put it all together and took it down my local indt garage. The guy kindly read my coeds and said they pointed to the Mass airflow sensor. He suggested that i disconnect it and see if it made any difference.

 

So I did. I then drove a small circuit around the local area and found that it pulled better (still not like it should and still way down on power). So I have ordered a new one and should be picking it up about 11.30 this morning.

 

The car has now warmed up, and is smoking like crazy!

 

The garage also spotted that injector 4 was leaking, and needed a new sealing washer. He suggested I get the washer ordered and they would fit it.