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You are correct. That lead is not capable of switching between the two different can buses. You need the one suggested by @unofix above.

Cambelt is recommended every 8 years on this engine. So it may have been done in 2021 if you've only recently bought the car.

Morning all, This is a great thread, however, spanning 56 pages it is a little tricky to get a full and complete up to date parts list to do this upgrade. Is it possible someone can repost the part numbers required for all of the components needed to do this upgrade to SYNC3 in a 64 Focus MK3. Thanks

Personally I didn't have leaks on my Focus but fixed 2 fiestas. One air wents and those oval shape holes. And second one joints on the roof to the boot, it wasn't any visible damaged but after sealing joints with tiger seal no more leaks. On that video, could it be coming through the top mount of shock absorber?

Yeah, we had a Focus MK3.5 1.0 Ecoboost Auto (exactly same engine, transmission and Map as EcoSport) and that did 23MPG around town but about 42 on a run Driving in "S" in the transmission and running on E5 helps, pushed to 29MPG Urban and 44MPG on a run But they're basically junk

A Ford dealer may be able to give you a print off, from the new system, but I don't know what that is What are you trying to find out?

Twilli hasn't been on since April 23. I'd like to know too

And the oil pump belt

Yes, good point

That's a lot of codes A bunch of CAN bus communication issues, some possible fuel delivery related issues, some door lock issues, and misc other stuff... I'd start with trying to figure out what's wrong with the CAN bus that's causing so many communication failures. A ton of stuff may drop off the list if you solve that. The Mk1 S-Max (2006-2014) is susceptible to the common problem of cracked solder joints in the instrument cluster. There are two possible different IC models that it may have, one that suffers from this problem and one not. I provide a repair service for this, please check the details to identify if your IC is affected: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915 Have you had the IC repaired before? Sometimes bashing the dash above the instrument cluster will get things working when its misbehaving if its got cracked joints. It's also possible that you have other electrical issues. There's a lot going on here. A lot of these codes probably have a common cause. There could well be more than one fault though.

Okay, thank you very much!

Very much appreciate your comments. Will take cover off and check it out.

Cam belt is due at 10 years, so it is due now.

There is a way to get daytime running lights working on mk2.5 Focus, at least for cars with auto headlamps. Needs a couple of fuses fitting, a relay and a link adding to the wiring plugs for the GEM. The auto headlamps then stay on (switch in Auto position) and in reality then just turn on the tail lamps when it decides it’s dark enough.

Hmm.. My challenge now is to try and work out where abouts it is on the car! This is the box https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335340075015 Looks like this is the sensor here in this photo, I wonder if it is accessible from the engine bay or if I will need to go under the car. I suppose I can do a visual inspection and it might be worth me unplugging it and seeing what codes I get. Will also be helpful to see what loom it comes off.

Try https://www.ford.co.uk/support/recalls to see what that says.

A good question and if you find an answer let me know. Some days my laptop will crash 3 times in the day with blue screen of death, and then it will be fine for a week with no issues 🤔

....and you have proof of that ? Is the car still using the original factory fitted battery ? If so it will have reached the end of it's life especially on a driving school car. The SOC is very likely below 60% and that will be on a good day.

Could you please provide us with an update ? thanks

You can rotate the engine using a socket and a bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Will probably need to jack up and remove the drivers side wheel to do that, but can then get the shafts lined up exactly where you want. The plunger probably can't be removed without removing the camshaft, looking at the shape of it. Hopefully there's nothing wrong with that though. Thinking about it, there must be a spring inside the vac pump to push the plunger back. The cam will only push it out. So I reckon that's what causing the tension. If you remove the cam cover, you can see exactly when the vac pump cam is at it's lowest point, and will be easiest to remove and refit. It's no problem. I don't really get involved with forum politics. If I know an answer I'll post it.

Been watching red eye. That killed a few hours when nothing else was on

Did you get anywhere with this engine management light issue as mine has started doing the same thing

measure the gap between the wheel arch and tire when its ok then take a pic, take car for drive and as soon as you notice the drop pull over in a safe place and measure again and take a pic post both here, eg 3 fingers fit when good and 2 fingers when it drops

Roger that,will steer clear from this one then. Such a shame i do love the Ford Focus,that is the only new car i ever bought back in the day,Focus Tdci 115hp with the rs kit. I loved that car,oh well thanks again for all the useful info,you have yourself a nice day.