can you let me know please? can i follow this guide from sync 1 to sync 2 for kuga too? Thanks again 

That wiring diagram is ONLY for the rear camera. 

If you go to the thread pointed to by @smartguy69 it details the whole process of fitting Sync 2 to a Ford Kuga. The guides on here you can follow for the wiring and setting up, but the rest is Kuga specific and not detailed in this thread. 

ok so i can follow this guide for wiring and installation even on perfect kuga. On this guide it says for the rear camera to connect pins 1 and 2 of the green plug of the rear camera cable to pins 14 and 15 of the apm ... how do I know which are pins 1 and 2? from the photos of the guide it is not clear ... Then I wanted to know when he says to configure the central confiscation with the focccus program, with kuga how should I proceed to do it? thank you 

On 3/6/2021 at 4:16 PM, Daniele kuga II 2014 said:

You posted a diagram that shows the pin numbers of the green connector (above). Failing that, they are usually marked on the back or front of the connector. Or you can use a continuity tester from the camera as you have the wire colours on the wiring diagram. 

I strongly recommend you look on the Kuga forum posted by @smartguy69 . The wiring is the easiest part for the Kuga. That post shows the whole installation including the cutting of the dashboard. 

I didn't use the green connector as my camera is aftermarket. 

1 hour ago, Steevo25 said:

Hai postato un diagramma che mostra i numeri di spillo del connettore verde (sopra). In caso contrario, di solito sono segnati sul retro o sul fronte del connettore. Oppure è possibile utilizzare un tester di continuità dalla telecamera in quanto si hanno i colori del filo sul diagramma del cablaggio.

Vi raccomando fortemente di guardare il forum di Kuga pubblicato da@smartguy69Il cablaggio è la parte più facile per il Kuga. Quel post mostra l'intera installazione, compresa la taglio del cruscotto.

Non ho usato il connettore verde perché la mia macchina fotografica è dopo il mercato.

I registered in the kuga forum but I have not yet received the authorization to write ... Then I saw that it is not very detailed as this is instead ... From the cable of the small screen I have to connect only 6 wires as per the diagram to the apim and the front fascia? And the other threads go to die? Then I can't find a 3 meter mini usb to mini usb cable for the connection ... Can you point me to an ebay or amazon link? Thank you 

If you can't find a mini usb to mini usb cable then just go for something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-cm-5-Pin-Mini-USB-B-Male-to-USB-A-2-0-Female-Extension-Cable-Data-SYNC-Cord-/272201859821?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Then you can just get a standard USB A to mini USB. More choice then.

 

But there are mini usb cables around, you just have to search for them. 

28 minutes ago, Steevo25 said:

Se non riesci a trovare un mini usb per mini via cavo usb allora vai per una cosa del genere:

https://www. ebay. co. uk/itm/50-cm-5-Pin-Mini-USB-B-Male-to-USB-A-2-0-Female-Extension-Cable-Data-SYNC-Cord-/272201859821? trksid=p2349624. m46890.

Poi puoi solo ottenere una USB A standard per mini USB. Più scelta allora.

 

Ma ci sono mini cavi usb intorno, devi solo cercarli.

ok if it works I take 2 cables and join them ... Instead what about my question about the wires of the small screen plug for connections? 

The connections for the Kuga will be identical to the connection guide in the very first post of this thread. 

If you are upgrading from Sync 1 to Sync 2, the pinout is identical. 

It's the fitting of the actual hardware and cable lengths that will be very different. 

20 minutes ago, Steevo25 said:

The connections for the Kuga will be identical to the connection guide in the very first post of this thread. 

If you are upgrading from Sync 1 to Sync 2, the pinout is identical. 

It's the fitting of the actual hardware and cable lengths that will be very different. 

ok what i would like to know is where to connect the remaining wires of the small screen plug ... That plug will not be connected anywhere on sync 2 right? 6 ends must be connected to the APIM, but other wires remain in the plug ... what should I do? 

The plug that used to plug in to your original screen (FCDIM) is left unused when you go to Sync2. Other than the wires you splice in to (as per the wiring spreadsheet in the first post of this thread), just tie the plug up behind the panel. I put electrical tape over mine. The other wires in the plug are not used and just left. 

1 hour ago, Steevo25 said:

The plug that used to plug in to your original screen (FCDIM) is left unused when you go to Sync2. Other than the wires you splice in to (as per the wiring spreadsheet in the first post of this thread), just tie the plug up behind the panel. I put electrical tape over mine. The other wires in the plug are not used and just left. 

ok perfect was what i wanted to know! thank you!!! This weekend I will do the job shipping well ... I have tried the Forscan and Focccus programs and they work with my ODBII with switch. With Focccus when I read the data I get a lot of errors and then I have to reset them with Forscan ... I wanted to know if I can do the programming using only Forscan? I load the main interface of the donor kuga and then I always program the HUB with Forscan ... Can it be done? Then, by reconnecting to the mini usb cable, a doubt arises ... but by removing my sync 1 where the mini usb cable already exists, wouldn't it be possible to recover that cable for my sync 2? Should there be right? 

I do not know about the USB cables, I just replaced mine and didn't even attempt getting the existing ones working. You can only try and see. 

Whenever you read or write to the BCM or IPC, you will always get lots of errors and the dash will go funny and make noises and flash. It will do the same whether you use FoCCCus or Forscan. 

I would use FoCCCus for the initial programming as that is what the instructions have been created with and it has been tested to work. Forscan can do it but everything will be in a different place any many items are worded differently. You could accidentally change the wrong parameters. 

Do everything as per the programming instructions. If you do it differently, then if it goes wrong, no one on here will be able to help you easily. 

55 minutes ago, Steevo25 said:

I do not know about the USB cables, I just replaced mine and didn't even attempt getting the existing ones working. You can only try and see. 

Whenever you read or write to the BCM or IPC, you will always get lots of errors and the dash will go funny and make noises and flash. It will do the same whether you use FoCCCus or Forscan. 

I would use FoCCCus for the initial programming as that is what the instructions have been created with and it has been tested to work. Forscan can do it but everything will be in a different place any many items are worded differently. You could accidentally change the wrong parameters. 

Do everything as per the programming instructions. If you do it differently, then if it goes wrong, no one on here will be able to help you easily. 

In the guide it says to use Forscan first to upload the donor car file for options. Then it says to use Focccus only to enable usb, aux, display, etc ... Right? 

It doesn't matter which way around you do it. Whether you upload the APIM AsBuilt first with Forscan and then modify the BCM with Forscan. Both parts have to be done. 

But use FoCCCus to modify the central configuration and use Forscan to upload the APIM AsBuilt. Don't try to use Forscan to modify the central configuration as it is done completely differently than the instructions. 

Follow the guide exactly as it is written. 

10 minutes ago, Steevo25 said:

It doesn't matter which way around you do it. Whether you upload the APIM AsBuilt first with Forscan and then modify the BCM with Forscan. Both parts have to be done. 

But use FoCCCus to modify the central configuration and use Forscan to upload the APIM AsBuilt. Don't try to use Forscan to modify the central configuration as it is done completely differently than the instructions. 

Follow the guide exactly as it is written. 

ok I'll follow the guide. Then I have all the cables of the donor machine ... can they be useful to me? Do I need to cut all the wires from the original 54 pin apim cable and connect them to that of the donor machine? 

 

It's entirely up to you how you do your wiring. 

If you use that 54 pin APIM connector from the donor vehicle, that looks like more work to me. You would have to solder every wire. 

27 minutes ago, Steevo25 said:

It's entirely up to you how you do your wiring. 

If you use that 54 pin APIM connector from the donor vehicle, that looks like more work to me. You would have to solder every wire. 

yes i know but i have this and i save some money ... however in both cases I still have to cut the original apim cable right? 

On 3/7/2021 at 9:06 AM, Daniele kuga II 2014 said:

Hi already ordered the gpsm module as they advised me ... Since you have a kuga and you have made the switch to sync 2, could you recommend me too? Is the pin shift to be done identical to this table below? can I follow this guide in detail? Regarding the connection of the rear view camera which are the 2 pins you used from the green plug? For the connection of the GPSM module, if as you say you already had it from the factory, have you disassembled all the instruments to get there? Do you have anything else to show me or recommend for kuga? Thanks again to ALL for your kind help  🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻

Focus Sync Conversion table-4.pdf 330.49 kB · 2 downloads

As Steevo25 says the wiring is identical on Kuga. However the spreadhseet of the wiring originates possibly from the USA. You DO NOT need to make these connections, assuming you are in the UK.

DATA LINK + FOR TMC ACM MAIN CONNECTOR PIN 4 ACM ACCESSORY CONNECTOR PIN 6 DATA LINK - FOR TMC ACM MAIN CONNECTOR PIN 5 ACM ACCESSORY CONNECTOR PIN 19

 

Also two very important connections is from the original small screen display FCDIM pins 4 and 5 which go to the button panel 7 and 4.

There will be no pin in the plug in pin 4 for the radio panel. You have to put a pin in the connector block which goes to the button panel and then connect that pin to pin 5 from the wiring of the small screen display FCDIM.

On pin 7 on the connector block for the radio control panel you have to cut the existing car wire leaving a piece of wire still attached the plug and then connect that wire to pin 4 from the wiring of the small screen display FCDIM.

I cannot help you with the camera as my car does not have a rear camera. You will have wires in pins 6 and 12 from the FCDIM.

I bought the proper usb lead from Ali Express. See link below. Delivery about 10 days.

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042647.6.2.36544c4d6YGn0m&orderId=8120083594398264&productId=4000003597385

1 hour ago, smartguy69 said:

As Steevo25 says the wiring is identical on Kuga. However the spreadhseet of the wiring originates possibly from the USA. You DO NOT need to make these connections, assuming you are in the UK.

DATA LINK + FOR TMC ACM MAIN CONNECTOR PIN 4 ACM ACCESSORY CONNECTOR PIN 6 DATA LINK - FOR TMC ACM MAIN CONNECTOR PIN 5 ACM ACCESSORY CONNECTOR PIN 19

 

Also two very important connections is from the original small screen display FCDIM pins 4 and 5 which go to the button panel 7 and 4.

There will be no pin in the plug in pin 4 for the radio panel. You have to put a pin in the connector block which goes to the button panel and then connect that pin to pin 5 from the wiring of the small screen display FCDIM.

On pin 7 on the connector block for the radio control panel you have to cut the existing car wire leaving a piece of wire still attached the plug and then connect that wire to pin 4 from the wiring of the small screen display FCDIM.

I cannot help you with the camera as my car does not have a rear camera. You will have wires in pins 6 and 12 from the FCDIM.

I bought the proper usb lead from Ali Express. See link below. Delivery about 10 days.

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042647.6.2.36544c4d6YGn0m&orderId=8120083594398264&productId=4000003597385

the car and I are in Italy. I didn't understand when you talk about links that I don't need to make ... the link doesn't give me any results ... 

The rows I have arrowed in Red, you do not have to connect unless you have an American system. This is only for American Sync2 units.

3 hours ago, Steevo25 said:

The rows I have arrowed in Red, you do not have to connect unless you have an American system. This is only for American Sync2 units.

ok since my car is in Italy I ignore those 4 inversions highlighted. To recap: Of the FCDIM cable I will only use pins 4-5-7-10 and the others will die, of the 2 ACM cables instead I have to connect them as they are original. For the rest I follow the entire procedure.  All correct? 

Yes, that's correct. Just follow the wiring diagrams but ignore those connections highlighted. You do not need to make any changes to either of the ACM plugs. 

Good luck with it all. It's hard work but worth it. 

38 minutes ago, Steevo25 said:

Yes, that's correct. Just follow the wiring diagrams but ignore those connections highlighted. You do not need to make any changes to either of the ACM plugs. 

Good luck with it all. It's hard work but worth it. 

I think I have enough information to start the job! Then if I have problems or other doubts during the process I write to you ok? I think this weekend I'll start work. I'm worried about cutting the dashboard a bit ... I wouldn't want to cut it the wrong way ... You are fantastic !! Thank you very much and I hope to succeed in the enterprise! Thank you  to ALL !!!!! 

But when you use this phrase in the guide: " Once you have swapped the 2 MM-can wires the unit can then be plugged in and will power up for basic testing ", what does that mean? I would like to turn it on before reversing everything how can I do? Can you explain me better? Can I connect only 2 of those 2 wires or can I connect all the connectors as they are original by replacing only those 2 wires? Thank you 

I bought this lead and did the pin swaps.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Female-Compatible-Connector-Backup/dp/B07KYJTHT4/ref=pd_lpo_60_t_2/259-1944233-3847727?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07KYJTHT4&pd_rd_r=243b24b4-9837-460b-92cf-5fe7674777db&pd_rd_w=FB9j8&pd_rd_wg=IbzaX&pf_rd_p=da0677f5-a47b-4543-8b54-10be576b8f26&pf_rd_r=ASWHYD0EMNX8S7DGPJPA&psc=1&refRID=ASWHYD0EMNX8S7DGPJPA

 

MM CAN- On Car pin 16 move to Sync 2 APIM pin 19

MM CAN- On Car pin 17 move to Sync 2 APIM pin 20

Then Sync 2 APIM can be powered up

 

I am not sure why you couldn't open my link for the correct usb lead. Try this one.

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000003597385.html

On cutting the dash I did mine very carefully just taking a little bit out at a time. I took out the air vents from the radio control panel as that made it easier. I will post some pics. Also have a look here for a bit of info.

https://www.drive2.com/l/8866039/