Hi guys,

Issues again that I'm having difficulty sorted. One garage put it on their machine and said a fuel injector was blocked. I put in a bottle of injector cleaner and drove the car for two miles each day for four days. It was difficult as I could not go over 2k revs. Two days before the appointment to replace the injector, the warnings stopped. All was good after a few miles check and decided to visit my sister (8 miles away). Went over a speed bump and the warnings came back on and the revs again couldn't go over 2k. 

Took the car to another garage and their diagnostic machine came back with no faults. The two warning lights are engine malfunction service now and hill start assist unavailable both in amber. A pain (literally) as auto park is unavailable and due to spinal fusion, it's very difficult to turn around to reverse. I've read an EGR valve if blocked could cause it but the only way to see is to get it replaced, but if that doesn't fix it I'd be back to square one.

Anyone have any advice on this problem? Once sorted, I've decided I've had enough of Ford cars and will be selling it (I had hoped it would have been my last car purchase and still only travelled 17k miles (2011 61 plate) and serviced only in November (new brake discs as they had rusted due to little use) and a new battery last year.

Thanks,

JJ

55 minutes ago, JJG said:

I've had enough of Ford cars

good luck on your next none Ford. Try a Nissan Leaf the injectors don't get blocked 🤣

9 minutes ago, unofix said:

good luck on your next none Ford. Try a Nissan Leaf the injectors don't get blocked 🤣

Oh, the next car will definitely not be Ford. I was looking at a MG electric earlier and spoke to the local dealer, but advised against it again as I generally only use a car once or twice a week and then for only 2 miles (unless hospital appointments 20+ miles). Apparently, I would have the same issues as this focus (new battery every two years) and told a normal petrol engine would best suited. 

Engine Malfunction warning means the fault code can only be read by Ford specific diagnostics.  It can be done yourself with Forscan though I appreciate that may not be something you'd feel comfortable doing.  Only other option will be a Ford garage.

 

I've got the same problem trying to find a suitable modern car for very low mileage...  Trouble is battery charging is now kept to a minimum to reduce emissions on every fossil fuel car as they all have to meet the same tight limits.  Petrols will also have a GPF which is unlikely to be any better than a DPF at such low mileage.  A full electric battery car should be ok though.  The 12v battery gets charged from the main battery when the car is being used and I would have thought a 2 mile trip each week should be enough to top that up.

16 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

 A full electric battery car should be ok though.  The 12v battery gets charged from the main battery when the car is being used and I would have thought a 2 mile trip each week should be enough to top that up.

 

13 hours ago, StephenFord said:

 

Leaving the car plugged in permanently is known to cause 12v battery issues.  As long as it's getting driven regularly it should be fine, even if not covering many miles.  Of course, the tech is always changing and improving as well.  The ID3 for example, will charge the 12v battery from the main battery even when parked if it senses too much voltage drop.

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Leaving the car plugged in permanently is known to cause 12v battery issues...

I wasn't aware of this, for the last 6 months I owned my GT4 it was permanently on trickle charge as rarely driven, and caused no issues. Was this because it was an old car with no modern fangled electronics to screw things up?

7 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

I wasn't aware of this, for the last 6 months I owned my GT4 it was permanently on trickle charge as rarely driven, and caused no issues. Was this because it was an old car with no modern fangled electronics to screw things up?

Leaving battery cars plugged in permanently I meant. 

The chargers are for the massive main battery, they don't directly charge the 12v battery.  So as in May's video, once the main battery is charged fully, it can't continue to charge it so all it'll do is keep the 12v systems 'on' and drain the 12v battery.  There's nothing depleting the main battery if the car isn't being driven, so it can't be 'trickle' fed either.

15 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Engine Malfunction warning means the fault code can only be read by Ford specific diagnostics.  It can be done yourself with Forscan though I appreciate that may not be something you'd feel comfortable doing.  Only other option will be a Ford garage.

 

I've got the same problem trying to find a suitable modern car for very low mileage...  Trouble is battery charging is now kept to a minimum to reduce emissions on every fossil fuel car as they all have to meet the same tight limits.  Petrols will also have a GPF which is unlikely to be any better than a DPF at such low mileage.  A full electric battery car should be ok though.  The 12v battery gets charged from the main battery when the car is being used and I would have thought a 2 mile trip each week should be enough to top that up.

I was hoping to avoid the Ford garage as they gave me a load of duff info previously. Said the back indicator lights were 'pale' and wanted over £500 to fit two new units and then wanted to charge me £15 for a remote battery and another £25 to 'reprogram' it (all excluding VAT). A local garage said nonsense, replaced the two bulbs for £5 (including fitting them) and said to just replace the remote battery as they did not need to be re-programmed. Did this and the remote worked perfectly.

What puzzled me is why the warnings went and the car drove as normal until I went over the speed bump.

1 hour ago, JJG said:

I was hoping to avoid the Ford garage as they gave me a load of duff info previously. Said the back indicator lights were 'pale' and wanted over £500 to fit two new units and then wanted to charge me £15 for a remote battery and another £25 to 'reprogram' it (all excluding VAT). A local garage said nonsense, replaced the two bulbs for £5 (including fitting them) and said to just replace the remote battery as they did not need to be re-programmed. Did this and the remote worked perfectly.

What puzzled me is why the warnings went and the car drove as normal until I went over the speed bump.

May be a loose plug that was knocked by the speedhump.  Or possibly a speed sensor issue that was only triggered when the wheel 'slipped' slightly on the hump.  There's no way to know without finding out the specific code that was triggered though.  Would you be able to use Forscan to get a code yourself and post it on here?  Not much more advice we can offer without that unfortunately.  You could also ask Ford just to scan the car for faults, without making any repairs...though I'd guess they'll charge £60+ just to do that nowadays.

On 1/18/2022 at 1:28 PM, TomsFocus said:

May be a loose plug that was knocked by the speedhump.  Or possibly a speed sensor issue that was only triggered when the wheel 'slipped' slightly on the hump.  There's no way to know without finding out the specific code that was triggered though.  Would you be able to use Forscan to get a code yourself and post it on here?  Not much more advice we can offer without that unfortunately.  You could also ask Ford just to scan the car for faults, without making any repairs...though I'd guess they'll charge £60+ just to do that nowadays.

Hi guys. Got hold of a Forscan & software but cannot see in the Ford manual where I connect it. Could some one point me the right way please?

Thanks,

JJ

oops; found it on youtube 🙂

Here's the log though it makes no sense to me at all! From my very limited guess it appears there are many errors there.

Thanks,

James

 

22-01-22b.txt

Many of those DTC's will be old, unfortunately there are no dates or times stored so some could be years old.

You need to use FORScan and clear all the DTC's and then take the car for a drive and recheck to see what comes back as active codes.

The most likely problem is:

===PCM DTC P1262:00-AE===
Code: P1262 - Cylinder 2 High To Low Side Short

Status:
 - DTC Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

 

On 1/22/2022 at 8:32 PM, unofix said:

Many of those DTC's will be old, unfortunately there are no dates or times stored so some could be years old.

You need to use FORScan and clear all the DTC's and then take the car for a drive and recheck to see what comes back as active codes.

The most likely problem is:

===PCM DTC P1262:00-AE===
Code: P1262 - Cylinder 2 High To Low Side Short

Status:
 - DTC Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

 

I cleared all I could, but the 3 BCMii ones will not clear.

24-01-22.txt

Well that looks loads better.

So the main problem would seem that your battery voltage is low at only 12 Volts.

B1088:88-2F which is not a major issue as the DTC has not set the EML to on, and may be a random error caused by low system voltage.

I would put your car battery on charge for at least 12 hours making sure to connect the negative lead to the chassis earth point and not the battery terminal. After that you could reset the BMS and take the car for a 10 mile run.

Clear and recheck the DTC's before and and after your run,

Were you able to solve the problem of error message of hill start not working and engine service light? I own a ford everest and i am getting the same errors every time i go through a bump. 

Check that the battery terminal clamps are clean and 'Tight' especially the negative terminal.

Hill start assist not working is caused by the battery 'State Of Charge' (SOC) being below 70%. Put the battery on charge overnight.

These are the fault codes that I am getting 

As already said, check battery terminals are tight, and then charge the battery for 12 hours.

I'm having the same issue on my transit custom van when ever i go over the bump hill start assit not worknig and Engine light on

 

See above.